KStretch55

If it was an injector problem wouldn't it run when fuel is poured in the throttle body though, Cougar? Even though just till that fuel is burned.

TBFI or MPFI? Kind of sounds like lack of fuel pressure, but you said you could see fuel spraying in the throttle body. So, I presume it's TBFI and there's enough fuel pressure to squirt fuel. But, may not be enough to run.Disconnect the fuel line somewhere between the fuel filter and the throttle body and see if you have pressure. Be careful, cuz' it may be pressurized and squirt. If there doesn't appear to be. Try putting the end of the line in a suitable container and turn the key to run. You should hear the fuel pump run and get a good flow into the container.

I concur with Northwet. That was my first thought, too.

Does it sputter and cough when you try to start it, or just turn over?

If I remember correctly, pulling the radio out helped access a lot of the vacuum lines and stuff and was much easier than shinnying in under the dash on your back, too.

Legal in Idaho, too!! Gotta love the real west!!

Sounds like voltage regulator/alternator.

As I recall, pull out the top and bottom buttons and you'll find the screws that hold the assembly to the panel. Then it's a matter of tracing vacuum lines to where they're broken or disconnected, etc. My '92 Loyale has an odd quirk in that when I have the "Heat" button pushed and I should be getting heat from the floor and defrost ducts, which I do, I also get cool (vent) air from the panel registers. But, only if the fan is on setting "1", if I turn it to "2" or higher, the cool air quits. So, I'm guessing that something that shuts off outside air isn't quite closing, until the fan pushes enough air against it. I'll live with it for now.

There's an easier way to change the connectors. If you look inside the connector you'll see the two flat contacts (spade connectors). Inside, almost where the wire is connected, is a small barb on the flat part. Use a scribe, a nail or something similar and push the barb down while pulling the wire out the rear of the connector. You'll end up with two wires with spade connectors on them. Do the same to the solenoid you want to swap it with, then just push the spade connectors into the connector housing and the barbs will hold them in place. No splices to cause resistance or come apart.

Hey, thanks for the thoughts. I have to agree that I'm afraid the grease would just attract more dirt and dust. But, thought I'd throw that thought out there and see if maybe someone had a different opinion or experience. Now, if we could just come up with a simple plan to seal the switches and surround them with dry nitrogen....... hmmmmmm. LOL

Glad I don't live in Cali!! Geez, here in Idaho it's like $25 for a title search and $7 for a title app. If it was here, I'd have taken the car home, called the Sheriff and had them run the VIN and explained the situation to them. If the car was hot or something they'd have been happy for the help recovering it. If not, they'd already have verified the VIN for me and I'd have a new project for nearly free!!

Almost sounds like the piece of key might be what's causing the binding, at least in part. I think I'd take the chance that $60 and some penetrating oil would fix it. Unless, the binding is what edrach meant was a common problem. Guess it kind of depends on what PAP wants for a new cylinder mechanism, too. Some manufacturers put a hole in the opposite end of the lock cylinder from the keyhole, just for this situation. I just had my ignition switch off the other day and I don't recall if there is a hole or not. I presuming there isn't or someone would have mentioned it. But, we'd look pretty silly if that's how the locksmith gets it out.

Ok, I've got a question that's related to the greasey subject matter here. We all know that Soobie electric windows tend to quit working, usually at the worst time. I believe it's usually due to oxidation/carbon arcing/burnt dust on the switch contacts. Usually, a quick brush with a wire brush on the contacts and you're back in business. So, my thought has been to cover the switch contacts with non-conductive grease to minimize the oxygen available to promote oxidation and arcing and to keep the dust away from the contact surfaces. The question I'd like to put to you folks with some knowledge in this area is: Will it work?

Drive it until you get the parts and equipment gathered up and you'll have great weekend project, then a cherry ride!!

145 in/lbs, though I like his answer better, but about other things!! LOL

Oh, and there should be a dense rubber spacer that goes between the brake drum and the bearing. I've seen a lot of these missing, some books show them and some don't. But, it makes sense to have something there.

Another thing to look for: what appears to be a flat washer that goes between the nut and the cone is really a type of lock washer. If you look closely one side should be stamped "OUT". Be sure you put the "OUT" side toward the nut. It's a spring steel washer and it's not really flat. If it's really worn, consider replacing it.

If you need an EGR solenoid, check with Whosiwhatzit, in Klamath Falls. He has one that I was going to buy from him. I found one yesterday in a JY locally, but was still going to buy his and put it on a shelf for a spare. But, if someone is in need of one I hate to have one sitting on a shelf collecting dust.

Cripes! Any idea what it would cost, or how many laws would be broken if someone was to just mail one North?

WOW!! $40 for a thermostat!! That's seems outrageous, even with the Canadian/American $ conversion. I just paid $9.49 US for the premium one at Schucks. Sounds like you're getting the Gold plated Yukon Territory price or something.

Struck out, so far.

Ok, after hearing so much good stuff about Seafoam and MMO, here's what I did: I did the Seafoam treatment, 1/2 can in the full tank, 1/2 can in the crankcase and maybe a 1/4 cup sucked through direct intake vacuum line. Drove it about 150 miles and changed the oil and filter. Refilled with 4 qts of good quality 10W-40 and 6-8oz of MMO. I think it definitely must have loosened things up cuz' before I only had some lifter pecking on start up and it quit once she was warmed up. Now, sounds like the lifters are taking turns talking to each other! One will peck for a bit, then another, then they'll be quiet for a while, then start around again. Even when it's warmed up. Could be that the process has broken a lot of varnish and carbon loose and as the bits and pieces work through the system they clog the weep holes on the lifters a bit. I'll give it some time to catch any gunk in the oil filter. If it doesn't improve soon though I'll probably add some 4cyl. STP and see if that makes them less talkative. Might omit the MMO next oil change. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Oops! I have that backwards don't I. So, I've retarded my timing and I really want to go to 22 BTDC. I realized I was looking at it as if 20 was TDC.

I need to make sure I'm thinking correctly, so if I'm not please straighten me out. I have mine set at 18 BTDC, because I have a ping and am trying to minimize it. As I understand it that means my timing is 2 degrees "advanced" from manufacturers recommendation, correct? If I set it at 22 BTDC it would be 2 degrees "retarded" from mfrs recommendation and probably make the ping worse, correct?