KStretch55

Aside from looking like it might be a "shin buster", I think it's kind of unique and cool looking. Granted, the stock bumpers are designed to collapse and absorb damage, not so much to minimize body damage as to minimize impact forces to the occupants. But, your log might do the trick, too. I used to have a friend who had a old style Ford Bronco, 60s - 70s style. He had a rear bumper made of a length of railroad track!! You knew it when you smacked your shin on that! But, I'm afraid any forces from a collision would have be transmitted to the frame and occupants, well and of course what ever it hit!!

There's not a lot of difference between a $15K Subaru and a $5K Subaru. Just miles on the odometer and they last forever so that doesn't necessarily mean much. Shop around for a really nice $5K Subbie and pocket the rest

Yep, sounds like a choke problem. I presume it's an automatic choke? Just guessing, cuz' I've never worked on a carb'd Subbie but lots of other carbs, sounds like the choke butterfly is completely closing until the bi-metal coil (or whatever Sub uses to actuate it) is warmed up enough to move it. If you can't find anymore data on choke settings or some good advice on here, try this: With the engine cold, push the gas pedal all the way down once, then look at the choke butterfly and see if it's completely closed. If it is there should be some kind of adjustment on the rod or lever that controls it. Adjust it so that it's open about 1/16". Then start the engine and see if there is any improvement. Might take some trial and error till you hit the right setting. Sometimes it's right where the butterfly just begins to unseat and sometimes wider.

I found it at Shucks here in Boise yesterday. $4.59 a can. I was expecting it to be a lot more considering all the raves it gets.

A smart and fair man would have told the other guy, "ya know I had another fella make me an offer and if you'd like to make an offer or wait till he gets here, I'll let it go to the highest bidder. That way everyone had a fair chance. I sympathize with you, but have also had lots of people change thier minds after a phone call and never show.

I don't think I've ever been stuck, in my subarus. (knock on wood) But, just this morning on my way to work I came upon one of my neighbors. His Outback was in the ditch, so I turned around to see I could help. Turns out that he saw some deer crossing ahead of him and was slowing down to give them time to cross. When he touched the brake pedal he heard a loud POP, the car began to shudder and he lost all braking. Well, he missed the deer and ended up in the ditch. Didn't look like he had any body damage, but apparently the left front brake caliper attach points failed. The caliper came loose and rattled around inside that nice alloy wheel, breaking large chunks of the wheel off in the process. OUCH!! I towed him out of the ditch with my '92 Loyale, parked his car in a nearby driveway and gave him a lift home.

I don't know about anyone else, but I find even $12K hard to swallow. The price of vehicles is grossly inflated. Blue, are you sure you aren't a Subbie sales rep?? You sound like one of those guys who says to only use the highly overpriced OEM parts. LOL Just kidding!!

I've heard folks say there's a 2nd filter, but I've never seen one other than the one by the front wiper motor in the engine bay.

You have to clamp or plug the "tank to pump" hose or gravity will pump the tank dry. Some folks use visegrips, but I don't like to cuz' I've seen too many hoses damaged that way. Here's what I do: a small C clamp and two pennies. Put a penny on each side of the hose and screw the C clamp down on them, just snug enough to seal it. You may still get a drip or two over time, but the pennies are kind to the hose. That's my two cents worth. Ha ha ha!!!

Let's see if I find any and what they soak me for to get them first.

It shouldn't, unless somehow you've got raw fuel into it. The charcoal just traps fuel vapors, so they won't vent to atmosphere and can be drawn back into the tank and condensed. I think that's how it was explained to me anyway.

Gribble, Sounds exactly like my '91 acted after it had been sitting for a long time. I heard the pump initially, but then no more. Take a small hammer or screwdriver handle and rap on the pump a few times. Turn the key and see if the pump runs briefly when you go to the "run" position. I wish I had thought of rapping on mine before I pulled it out, might have saved me some time. My theory is that they get gummed up or something when allowed to sit. I ran some MMO through mine while I had it out and it's been consistently working ever since. To be honest, I still haven't completely figured out the pump circuit. There's a twist in it somewhere, in that the power comes from the battery through a fuse on the panel and the relay, but somehow it appears to me that the ECU will not power the pump until it detects coil voltage. Can anyone help me understand this better? Stretch

Too bad you're so far away. I could be bribed for 6pak o' beer and the experience! Good luck.Now, understand that I wouldn't want to live anywhere but the good ol' USA, but Ross is lucky in at least one respect. I have a friend who just came back from a 4 year stint at Christchurch and she loved it. She said that more often than not common sense stills carries some weight in the land of the Kiwi, instead of an ambulance chasing, money grubbing lawyer on every street corner pushing frivolous lawsuits that raise the price of everything and lower the value of a dollar.

I'm going to check the local JYs this weekend for solenoids. If I come up dry I'll be contacting you. Thanks.

Though I believe the Purge control and EGR solenoids function identically, they do not look identical. But they do look very similar. As I recall the vent cap, yes that's what it is, looks a bit different between the two and the ports are mounted differently. The one thing I'm not sure about is whether the feedback signal to the ECU is the same for both. Seems like a couple of years ago I substituted a Purge control solenoid for a EGR solenoid and confirmed that it was functioning, but still got a code 34 on the ECU. Any thoughts from anyone else on this?

Looks good too, Samo. My '92 is the same color. Thanks for the info.

A "Speedi-sleeve" is another option.

Yeah, I was a bit leary of doing it, so didn't do too much. It's like water injection on aircraft engines. Increases the cylinder pressures and power output a lot!! But, there's a price to pay in life expectancy. I think I'll keep using 89 for a while and see how it does and do the Seafoam treatment after payday. Thanks

Well, the water trick didn't seem to make any difference. Although, I'm sure it cleaned some carbon out. She still pinged when the weather warmed up, and in the process I found out the EGR solenoid in my '92 has gone TU, too. Though it's failed in the open/valve on position, so I can't see where that would be contributing to the Ping. Since if it's open the EGR valve is letting exhaust gas into the intake manifold and cooling the combustion temp, correct? I've been using 87 octane, so I ran her nearly out of fuel and put in 89 octane. I didn't think it would make a real difference. But, she didn't ping on the way up the hill yesterday!! I'll let ya know if there's any change.

What is the biggest tire I can put on a stock '91 or '92 Loyale without rubbing or needing to trim or beat some additional clearance? Same question, but with 14" Pugeot wheels? Thanks.

Have you ever found the oil pump rotor worn beyond limits? I know the Haynes and Chilton books say to check the dimensions and if worn beyond limits get an oversized rotor. I've never been able to find anyone who stocks the oversized rotors and haven't heard of anyone who does anything but replace the seals. I don't want to replace the rotor if I don't really need to, and don't want to have to be dead in the water while I search for one either. Advise me, oh yea of vast exerience! Thanks, Stretch

Short of replacing worn out bushings or bending something, I'm pretty sure it's fixed and non-adjustable.

I just looked up that P/N on NAPAonline, and sure enough it's there. Looks very similar, except for the 90 degree outlet pipe and damper that's built onto the Soobie original. But, hey there's several more dampers along the line anyway, right!!? It does say "Pressure rating, 4 - 6"? I presume that's some kind of rating system not output pressure. Looks like a good alternative to me.

Do a search for "water trick". I tried it last night in my '92 Loyale.

You might try the "water trick", too. My '92 Loyale has had a ping lately when the weather warms up. I've checked the timing and everything else and was going to up the octane I use. But, yesterday I read a couple of threads that talked about running some Seafoam (which I may still do) through them to clean carbon from the piston and cylinder heads. Someone else mentioned "the water trick". This consists of inducing a small amount of water into the intake manifold while the engine is running. This of course will become steam during the combustion cycle and reportedly does a dandy job of cleaning the carbon up. They used a squirt bottle on normally aspirated models and engine vacuum on fuel injected models. I tried it last night on my 92 Loyale. Made sure it was up to normal temp, used a clean pint jar with about 1/2 cup of water in it. I chose to disconnect the center hose from the top of the vapor recovery charcoal canister, it's straight manifold vacuum and the hose is long enough to reach the jar easily. I held the throttle cable with one hand, engine turning approx. 2000 rpm and put the vacuum hose in the jar with the other. It took about 10 seconds for it to empty the water from the jar. Of course, the engine chugs a bit and belches a lot of gray, dirty steam, but it seemed to work. I reconnected the vacuum line to the canister and held the throttle until the steam began to subside. Then closed the hood and took it around the block. It was too cool to really know if it made a difference last night and this morning coming to work, but it did seem to be a bit smoother. That could be wishful thinking though. ;-) The real test will be this afternoon when I head home. It's supposed to warm up to around 60f and I have a pretty good hill to go over on the way home (about 1000' in 3 miles, even steeper the other direction). Wish me luck. This may not be something you want to do too often. I don't know what result it could have: How much water vapor does it induce into the crankcase? How much affect does the steam have on the oil film on the cylinder walls and rings, does it recover/reoil on the next stroke or take a few? If anyone's interested, I'll keep you posted. Stretch