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SiriusBlack

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Everything posted by SiriusBlack

  1. SiriusBlack
    First thing I checked was the pickup. It was fine, but I replaced it with a new killer bee while I was in there anyway.
  2. SiriusBlack
    Hey all. I recently did the first oil change on my new to me 05 STI. It did alright during the circulation after the change, but my low oil pressure light came on on my way home from work. From what posts I can find, I'm guessing a piece of sludge or carbon got dislodged and jammed the pressure relief valve open. I believe that valve is on the oil pump itself? Can anyone confirm that? If it is, how easy would it be to correct? Can I replace that valve, or does it have to be the whole pump? I'm currently in the process of installing an oil pressure gauge, so I can verify what pressure is actually there. Also, I can't think of why it would, but could this have been caused in any way by the fact that I changed it from 5W30 to 5W40 during the change? Thanks in advance.
  3. SiriusBlack
    Hey all. I recently took COBB's tuning classes, for all the good it did me. Turns out the custom tune the car came with is locked, and my accesstuner software won't read it. In addition the classes they had me take through EFI University, barely touched 75% of the stuff in the software. I don't know what I'm doing when it comes to digital ECU tuning, and I don't want to mess with anything for fear of ruining my motor. I asked COBB if there were any other classes I could take to get a better grasp, they just said to look at their help center. Another waste of time, it barely covers the old STIs anymore. Is there anyone that can help me tune this car? I would be immensely thankful.
  4. SiriusBlack
    Hey all, hopefully I won't be ridiculed or called an idiot for asking this, but I really want to know. I recently got an 05 WRX STI, I read that the DOHC EJ25 motors are interference engines. I know if you change your timing belts regularly, the odds of catastrophic failure due to pistons hitting valves is low. However, pulleys can seize and belts can fail prematurely. Also if you run without covers so you can regularly check them, that adds the possibility of something getting caught and breaking the belt. So my question is, how hard is it to make the engine non-interference? Will installing thicker head gaskets get the clearance needed to make it non-interference? If you increase how much boost the turbo puts out, will it successfully compensate for the compression loss you would get by raising the heads? Just how much overlap is there between the valves and the piston? Thanks in advance.
  5. SiriusBlack
    Hey all. Last week I bought a 2005 WRX STI with 67000 miles. Now I am discovering several things that didn't get discovered during the test drive and the owner didn't mention. It has a Cobb tuning access port that was running a "custom" tune. That tune supposedly added 30 HP, but it killed any and all fuel mileage and was causing a bank 1 too rich code. I reflashed it to the Cobb factory economy tune, now I have 7 different check engine codes. Evap system error/PCV system error and the rest are low sensor voltage errors. It would not let me do the realtime map swaps while it was flashed to the custom tune. Now that it is flashed to a Cobb tuner factory map I can realtime any map other than the custom map. It has a Cobb short cold intake, a Mishimoto radiator, Grimspeed turbo solenoid controller, and Ohlin race coilovers. It also has a clicking noise from the tranny. It is worst in second gear, but can also be heard in first, neutral and reverse. It is absent when the clutch is disengaged and you sit still, but you can hear it faintly when rolling to a stop with the clutch in. I discovered much to my anger and disappointment that the tranny had been being run with almost no oil in it for several hundred miles after they had a shop install a new clutch. Currently my biggest worry is to get the ECU squared away. I want it to run on something other than their custom tune without throwing half a dozen engine codes. All of my subi experience has been from restoring my BRAT and XT, only 80s subis. This is a bit new for me. Thanks in advance.
  6. SiriusBlack
    Hey all. I'm looking into all the different possibilities for engine swaps into my 86 BRAT and 87 XT. I'd really like to put EE20 boxer turbo diesels into them, but can't find physical dimensions for these engines anywhere. People drop the EJ18 and EJ20s into these cars. I did find out that the EE20 is shorter front to back than the EJ20. I'm more worried about width. Can anyone get me the full physical dimensions on the EJ18, EJ20 and most importantly the EE20 diesel? Thanks in advance.
  7. SiriusBlack
    @el_freddoThanks for the links, I'll be sure to comb through it all. I most likely won't go the exact same route he did, but the cache of knowledge in those should certainly help.
  8. SiriusBlack
    @moosens You feel right, I'll keep what everyone is saying in mind, but I will stick to my plan for the most part. I'm stubborn and like a challenge, I was just looking for a little help.
  9. SiriusBlack
    I have decided that a stand alone is probably better. I already planned on an intercooler system and cooler more efficient turbo, in addition to the dual core radiator I installed "have to keep it cool". Still working on the pressure issues. I think you're underestimating the durability of the cylinder walls. The main issue is the head gaskets, that's where my problem currently lies. No one makes MLS head gaskets for this engine. If I can get MLS head gaskets, I think it will handle more pressure. Once again I'm not looking to cram ENORMOUS amounts of air into it, because I'm not wanting HUGE hp increases over factory. Are you honestly saying, that even a slight increase in air pressure for more power will blow it up? Even if you think so, there are ways of reinforcing it without too much work. That's like you said the EE20 diesel is garbage because the crank seat cracks, I believe the issue was with those? Wouldn't you fix that problem with an engine crank girdle? As for the referencing things that don't exist, you do realize that people make things exist, right? You don't dig in the ground and find a deposit of EJ engines. They didn't always exist, someone created them.
  10. SiriusBlack
    Just what I said, finer control. I want more control over the fuel and ignition systems, so I have the capability to tweak it to where I want it. Im not looking to build a 300 hp track killer engine. I want to up the 115 it had at factory to a RELIABLE 150 to 200 range. As for the "what do it think I can do better than the engineers that built it". I'm not a certified subi tech, but the simple fact is that this engine is over 30 years old. I have access to newer and more advanced technology and techniques than they did 30 years ago. Why shouldn't I be able to get everything a little finer tuned, more efficient, more powerful and more reliable? I'd also like flexibility. We have a Ford 7.3 diesel. Majorly different engine, I know don't get all bent out of shape. My point is here, that engine has had a custom tuner installed and can switch between tunes on the fly. Allowing you to adjust the engine on the fly for different circumstances, simply by switching between the saved tunes. I'd like to have a "stock" tune, where it runs exactly as if it were on the stock ECU. Then an "economy tune" that leans everything out a little bit and throttles everything down for better milage. Then last but not least, a "power/performance tune". Where it opens everything up to the max, giving me the power when I want it without sacrificing everything in the other areas.
  11. SiriusBlack
    So what I'm hearing GD, is that while you know how to tune, you have never actually tuned an EA82T. That is what I asked, what your experience was in tuning SPECIFICALLY the EA82T. As for the piggyback tuners being junk that trick the system into enrichening the fuel ratio, your right there. Most piggyback tuners do, but as I already stated originally the Power Commander doesn't look like it goes that route. It has programmable fuel maps and a couple other programmable features. They're typically meant for motor bikes, but what I want to know is if the can be adapted to alter the stock EA82T ECU? Can anyone answer that question? Thanks in advance.
  12. SiriusBlack
    At the risk of starting an argument GD. Have you ever tried to fine tune an EA82T? Have you used a mega squirt or piggyback module on THIS engine. I'm wondering what your first hand experience on this topic is.
  13. SiriusBlack
    Hey all, I have an 87 XT coupe with the EA82T engine and i'm looking at tuning options for finer control. I was originally going to replace the ECU with a fully tunable Megasquirt 3, But someone had mentioned using a piggyback Power Commander Tuner https://www.dynojet.com/power-commander/ It was one post, but he had said if you changed the connectors on this tuner it could be used on our early ECUs even though it is designed for bikes? I'm curious if anyone else knows anything about this or how I might go about it. It sounds like it should be easier and quicker than a full ECU swap, as well as giving you the option of unplugging it and running off the stock ECU if something goes wrong. From what I read it is more than one of those ridiculous chips that just enrichens the fuel air mixture. This actually has 2 tunable fuel maps as well as ignition tunes, possibly opening up switching to distributorless timing and finer tuning of the timing? Thoughts and help on this would be great., alternatives too. As always thanks in advance.
  14. SiriusBlack
    Alright everyone, I've got it running like a dream again, burped a ton of air out of the cooling system. That took care of the overheating. Thanks for the suggestions. Stay tuned to the boards, I'm hoping to try an experimental fix for factory XT air struts that I thought up. It should at least help till my dad and I finish figuring out how to modify modern universal struts.
  15. SiriusBlack
    I fixed the primary running issue, throttle cable did end up out of adjustment and was keeping throttle open. Still have an issue though. Despite the dual core radiator it tries to overheat if you sit still for more than 5 seconds. It's like 100 degrees outside here now, but it should handle that. It did fine staying cool before the repair, just leaked which is why I took it apart.
  16. SiriusBlack
    @Step-a-toeI did replace the freeze plugs, knew they were a worry spot as well. I'll have to triple check the timing, but I could've sworn the bonnet sticker said 25°. I'm going to reset the ECU and double check the timing, I'll also go over the hoses with a fine tooth comb. Sounds like odds are one got screwed up and I have an air leak.
  17. SiriusBlack
    25° is what the turbo model calls for, says so on the under hood sticker. The water pump is brand new, head gaskets are 17 years old but have almost no miles on them, the car ended up sitting after the gaskets were replaced. However, as I said it ran like a dream before I took it apart for the coolant leak. Thermostat and coolant temp sensor plug are both brand new. I had learned from an ancient post I dug up a couple years ago that the ECU has to be put in test mode for the timing to be set, just connect the green jumper wire.
  18. SiriusBlack
    Hey everyone, I've got some new problems with my 87 GL10 Turbo XT. I'm hoping you all can help me out again. I pulled the coolant passage off the back of the intake manifold to replace the gaskets and the thermo vacuum valve as they were leaking coolant. To get it out without pulling the entire manifold I had to remove the turbocharger, distributor, knock sensor, and the throttle cable bracket on the bell housing. I just recently got it all back together and after some issues timing it (since I removed the disty) we finally got it to time at 25 degrees BTDC. Now however it tries to idle at 3000 rpm and heats up really fast and overheats despite my upgraded dual core cooling system. We haven't done tons of troubleshooting yet, just looking for things to try while I do so. It ran like a dream before I took it apart for the leak. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  19. SiriusBlack
    @carfreak85 if I do the five lug conversion, will the impreza/legacy air struts bolt right in? Or will they still need alot of modification to fit?
  20. SiriusBlack
    I got my regulator sorted out today. I took the regulator and cable reel from the driver's side of the parts car. Then I swapped in the cable from the passenger side. Had to cobble together a new plastic cable guide. Made it out of a piece of scrap I had around, used to be a 90 degree pipe attachment of some sort. I'd post pics but the damn limit is saying mine are too big.
  21. SiriusBlack
    We did that first and got nothing. We can only get a spark from the coil wire if we ground the coil neg as well.
  22. SiriusBlack
    I have been using the caps that were on the distys I pulled. The new disty has the old cap from the last parts disty.
  23. SiriusBlack
    @Dee2 When we ground the neg contact on the coil, the ground wire we're using sparks strong. If we hold the new coil wire to a ground and ground the neg post we get a weak little spark from the coil wire. Replacing the distys usually fixed the the issue. I assume we went through 2 because they were used ones we pulled off parts vehicles.
  24. SiriusBlack
    Hey all, I have a 1986 BRAT that has had disty trouble most of its life it seems. It original disty went bad an a different one was swapped in from a parts wagon. Then that one went bad and it got the disty from another parts car. This third disty was from an older model and had some sort of complicated ignition module bolted to the top of the coil. Now I was finally able to track down a cardon rebuilt disty, I installed the new disty, new accel coil, new premium blue NGK plug wires and new NGK plugs. I put all of it in and it won't start. No spark from coil. There is 12 volts at pos and neg. We get a weak spark if we ground the coil neg to a body ground. Otherwise no spark at all. Any help would be appreciated Thanks in advance.
  25. SiriusBlack
    I recently replaced the injectors in my 87 EA82T. The old o0nes are green colored. The part numbers are illegible.
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