Indrid cold

Seeing the way the snow is packed up in the wheel well... I suspect... SPEED could be a factor! hmmmmm..... wish we had your snow.....

Surprisingly it didn't take too long, not counting putting the covers back on which I havn't done yet, ... for my first time about 30 min. each side (after I read the chiltons etc and figured it out a game plan...) You will spend more time degreasing and removing old valve cover gaskets then the actual job. by the earlier reply you don't need the factory tools, but they SURE HELPED! I was hoping for a reply regarding loosening the head bolts as the owners manual says but I wouldn't, but what do I know:-p It wasn't that bad to do. I am learning ='s mistakes. I don't need the car right now so time is on my side... no rush means no stupid mistakes...hopefully , but yea.. +1 on learning to do it yourself. First you have to make sure you don't have the Hydraulic lifters so no adjustment needed...thus the newer EA-81 has the, "don't adjust sticker on the valve covers." If this makes sense and confirm with Chiltons or "How to keep your Subaru alive", (D'oh.. didn't even look at that chapter.) Here is what I did on mine: Remove battery, Remove covers, take out spark plugs, 22 mil socket on front crank nut and turn engine till fly wheel to "0" deg at time mark and assure distributor rotor is pointing at plug #1 wire on distributor, (if not, rotate till rotor points too plug wire one on dist.and "0" deg on time mark-lift dist cap to take a peek) now you can adjust #1 intake/exhaust gap. Rotate engine clockwise 180 deg from "0" and their is a slash on the opposite side of the fly wheel now visible at the time mark and that is the Top Dead Center mark for cylender #3 & #4, (adjust #3). Rotate engine clockwise 180 back too "0" deg, that is TDC for #2 (adjust #2) Rotate again 180 deg, back too the slash and TDC on #4 (adjust #4) so the fireing order should be 1,3,2,4 so you start with 1, go too 3 etc... (double check on that as it's late and from memory) To adjust, loosen locking nut, turn little square end to make adjustments and reset lock nut and check gap with feeler gauges. Torque lock nuts 11-13 ft pounds. check your settings on each one again by rotating the engine back to each TDC of each cyclender and assure gap with your feeler gauges and then do it one more time just too make sure. I found I had to push down a bit on each rocker to get it to hold open and not close the gap to get an acurate reading. I recently read a post to coat the new cork valve cover gaskets with grey silicone High temp. let dry and install. A valve cover gasket set was like $11. Again.... I am learning and hope info is accurate, having a good time just hanging in the garage with my Hatch, tinkering... and hope some of this info is usefull to others. Just feels good to work on something.

Been trying to get my new 2 me 84 Hatch road worthy. Found out a co-worker was an Ex-Subaru Mechanic and he let me borrow his old-school tools for adjusting the rockers on the non-Hydraulic lifters on the older EA-81..... excellent... The book (owners manual) stated to loosen head bolts and the mechanic said, nahhhh... just assure head bolts are proper torque and then adjust gap on rocker arms. So took his word and didn't loosen head bolts. (engine must be cold-sat over night cold prior to adjusting) I found one head bolt #1 (center of head) loose and torqued it to proper spec using the fancy off set head socket tool. To me loosening a head bolt on a 23 year old motor is asking for leaks... I guess... but all going good and will report when on the road.... I am sure I didn't NEED those tools but it sure made it easy for a first timer.

Try snugging them up and if they look aged, changing heater hoses is usually a good start . I havn't had to change a heater core from a Subaru yet.. but I hear it isn't fun.. but there are shortcuts etc... usually windows would fog up on inside if leak in coil and smell etc.. Depending on the heater hose, you can use the hose off the role, but I think on the return hose it has a dog leg on one end and using the roll stuff it can crimp over, so for that one I usually buy a exact replacement whether from Subaru or after market. Also the little hose from the carb down to the air manifold I buy that one also. It is located on the left/front side of the carb when facing engine and another squirley one on the right side I think... I have used fuel line but again, the factory short bends make it worth the extra money to assure no problems. And that 90 deg hose off the top of the water pump, after market or Subaru orig. but too sharp a bend too use hose off the role. Hoses are on the bottom of the list of things to replace. Sorry so wordy and hope some of this helps

yea... she just probably spouted out a number not realizing her owner ...errrr... "husband" can't just let it go that cheap or after closing costs on her new car she figured every penney will cut the cost..., so can't really hold someone to something they really had no idea they were talking about. It is kind of different if it is someone you don't know, but a co-worker adds a mix to the situation......were all human.

Problem is solved and it was a good lesson on my 84 Hatch. Ignition key was tough too turn...suspect was bad ignition switch as no real obvious problems other then the key seemed a bit worn down. Went too dealer to get new key cut. Subaru Dealer said even with vin # they don't have records for the older Roo's to cut a "Code cut key" and to go to a lock-smith. Called lock smith... He said to bring in Passengers side door lock, he will get the numbers from lock and use lock to cut a perfect, "code cut key" to test that in the ignition. If key fails too function, then look at the ignition switch internals to have failed. ..................................... The leason learned of course that even with a new key cut from the old-key sometimes may not make a difference, and unless there are obvious sign of failure in the barrel an old worn key can mimic a bad ignition switch. It is best too start with a "Code cut key" derived from a lock on the car, then venture into the more expensive options of ignition switch replacement. My 2 cents.

Too assure your problem just isn't key related and if it is the "Old School" Subaru inwhich your dealer doesn't have a key code to cut a new key, I recommend doing the following: Remove the passengers side door lock. Take too Lock-smith and request a "Code Cut key"... there are numbers on the side of the lock and or what ever magic they do they will cut an perfect key... the perfect key can then be used in your ignition switch... if that fails then yes.. possible internal problems with switch. At the least your out the sevice shop charge....rather then ordering a new switch, which may not be the problem. If you have to buy a new switch, I recommend: Subaruparts.com Root around on their main page and you will figure out how to put in a request and they will get right back with you. Best price I found. Take passenger door lock off and take too Lock-smith and he will match ignition, 1-key to open doors and start car.

Yes....... almost 9 months to make something road worthy..... I know I can do that! "Help me Mr. Wizard!!!!!" Town of the, "Goonies"... kind of fits, ........ excellent.....

Recap on my adventure of bonding with my (new too me) 84 Hatch ($100) that I just started to work on, ... long story short, my right Axle which needed replacement was short by about 5/16"? ... and found out that some one... in it's past lost the spacer between the bearings and decided to replace it with one that was... you guessed it, 5/16" longer (EA-82?), thus.... just enough threads on the end of the axle if you omit the lock ring and use half a cotter pin... hey.. it worked for the kid I bought it from.:-\ but I wanted it back to norm, but it confused the heck out of me as I had no idea what was switched, modified, or changed..etc... on the right side. Then, Murphey showed up and totally messed the hole job up, the kid who owned the car before found that a BIG hammer seemed to be the best tool too use and what should have been a 2-3 hour event took a frustrating long, long time, .... as even the simplist bolt seemed too put on a fight. Also; the parts store were all mixed up and trying too sell me parts that weren't right etc... so that just added too the experience. I finaly got mad and took Murphey on by getting some decent tools: first a quality punch for taking out the axle pin that wouldn't. Then I bought a machine-shaft spacer which would recess into the Knuckle which makes a great bearing pounder-inner. Then a Dial-Caliper as I had too take the good side apart (driverside) to diemension everything so I would have a reference for the bad side... which all ready had my new axle and bearings/seals installed since I figure someone had put in the wrong axle, but when I got it together I had the same situation, ... so I tore it down again and compaired the parts from the dimensional on the left.... sure enough.. the center spacer... wrong.... So the good: Lots of bonding time with my new Hatch which is a good thing. loosening old bolts and degreasing everything. Some better tools. A new axle on one side, the other needed seals, regrease and actually a good thing I busted it down. The bad is I had to beat out the new bearings I had just installed... but seems o.k.and good is I had parts on hand to finish up the job. My goal was to get this Hatch on the road for total of $500.... but with all the extra's I will probably overshoot that... but hey... new tools and all. also one last rattle.... two thumbs up too BratsRus1 (Jerry) in Yakima for his long distance help.

He goes by the name of: FlatBlackSOOb111 I have seen him run around town several times but havn't had a chance to visit with him either. He has posted once or twice but that is all. Usually he is a streak through town and a bugger too catch up too:burnout:

Finaly diving into my 84 Hatch. Previous owner was a college student who did some of his own work on the car... Problem, pulled in a new axle, put on the Axle nut/washer etc and the axle doesn't come through the nut enough for me too put in a cotter pin. Like the axle is too short but I know it isn't as new from parts store, .... so I am thinking he changed the Hub or rotor and used the wrong year, model or what ever. The Hub did slide down the Axle spline, kind of rough..but it did go on..I sucked it up and look on the back side and it is seated so the axle is in properly... but I think the rotor or the Hub (has splines in them) are wrong...... I sucked the axle in all the way as I was standing on the wrench, the nut is extending past the axle about 1/4" and unable to install cotter pin... ohh.. also... when I tore it down I noticed there was no locking washer under the axle nut.... so they omitted that to get the cotter pin... :-\ so I think the hub has been changed.... but not sure... any ideas....?? Called Jerry in Yakima, (Bratsrus1) he thinks that the previous owner may have put ea-82 Hubs on this EA-81 Hatch... thus...they almost work.. but not quite plus he may have parts in his storage shed (83 wagon) to replace back to original. So I think we have a plan...... Jumped in my Ford... yea.. I know, and drove too Yakima and Jerry and I measured, poked and proded and got some dimensions and I headed back home. All seemed normal EA-81 parts, but nothing seemed right... and noticed that the car had been in some kind of finder bending on that side of the car... ahhhhhhhhhhhh...and puting two and two together I believe they switched the front Knuckle etc with a front wheel drive not a 4x4 parts.... So after 2 days, and alot of I think I got it figured. Jerry has a front knuckle assembly that he is willing too ship over to save me another trip back too Yakima Thank you Mr. BratsRus1.

ahhhhh... interesting....so it isn't Cole-slaw... it's, Cole's Law. NO CABAGE FOR YOU! (Cabage Natzi) o.k., now back under the Subaru.:-p

O.K., I give... Cole's Law? and as for Murphy....I let him in as it got dark, I got in a hurry and told my wife I would be done by dinner time....I know, I know... but she didn't believe me either so she put it in the fridge on a plate for later.

:-\ You know Murphy... what ever can go wrong... etc.. etc... Well I got pumped about how fast I was going to do a front axle and bearings as the process has become almost like changing oil. got old out, new bearings in and puting in a new/used axle... suppose to fit, should have fit problem's ensued.... didn't want to fight it anymore so I went and bought a new axle.. got back home and pound out new/used axle and it came out with my new bearing and grease seal on the inboard side on the axle.....hmmmmm...this is new... so there I stand, new axle in left hand, other axle which came out with the new seal and bearing on it in my right hand... . ... I will fight no more tonight and try again tomorrow.... Just venting.... all good

I think he means too grind the nut off or head of screw with out tearing into the mud flap, and yes... they sell very quickly on e-bay or on this site....

Thanks for the input guys... just nice to get some input and all and try to figure out a workable process. My goal is too be in my Hatch Nov. 1, I guess with clicking studs and all I bought this 3 months ago and it has some basic neglected maintenance things that needs to be taken care of. It has been sleeping along side of my house for almost 3 months waiting for a chance to come too life, will repost when ready too roll with official pictures. ................ ohhh... no one said nice buy... but I thought 4-studded, Firestone radials-never used, on clean Subaru Rims for $175 was...like this , not up to this:banana: , but well above... . I'm happy with them.:-p ....................

I read other posts that it's a pain to pull out studs.. but possible. I may want to run these tires with out the studs... but not sure... Long story ... I need tires for my Roo... looked in paper and found 4-studded, Firestone 185-70R-13 on Subaru Rims (white rims with the blue and red pin stripe) for $175. Never used, stored for 3 years..... they all looked good and rims excelent even with prior use, ... so I figure I would pick them up. I wish I could afford another set of tires as I would change what I have and save these for snowy weather but I won't have the extra funds trying to get this Roo road worthy. I live in a warmer climate but we do get snow that sticks in January or nasty weather around Dec. or the global warming thing and be wearing tee shirts at Christmas... ... So, if I put these on Nov. 1st (legal date I think)... would this wear them down so I couldn't pull the studs when it isn't legal to use them in spring? So... drive as is and rip later.. or rip out and go with the feel of bare rubber. These tires will be going on my 84 Hatch that I am preping too drive while I re-work my 88 wagon and more of a weekend rig... so not alot of miles but does get town driving etc...and yes... It will find it's way into the mud puddles, hills, etc.. :cool:

This is how it looks when the tide is coming in as you were strolling down the beach with your girl. Nice Subarus, new stuff, ... and yea... I am a bit bored tonight, don't mean to pick on yea... all good... Welcome too the board and another photo of how a fish would look on top...... (got too get off these back shifts... late night humor)

ahhh... man.. that is noooo good... nice weekend and no one could do it? It was such a great opportunity for you guys to get together before the snow fly's so I was pumped that you were going to have a good gathering. I was kicking my self in the keester for not having at least one roo in good enough condition to make the drive over... It wasn't a wasted trip if you got your subaru into the hills and a chance to go.

Hey Flat Black!.... I know your rig and looking forward to finaly meeting you! Bring a friend etc...... I think this will be a good first gathering....nothing fancy, not many, but we will make some good contacts.. And Sparkster... yup, warm, possibly thunder bumpers, but won't keep us from the food...

Good job on the repairs, I read your age as being 19,..... to many kids your age can't add fluid washer too the windshield bottle... you figured out how it ticked, found a solution to the problem... (getting those pesky magnuts to hang on & N. S.) and got it running again.... To many just slump their shoulders, whine and put it in the trash and ask mommy to buy them another one. Good for you.... *I was going to make a joke that you are now worthy too date my daughter ... but ... sorry... no daughter dating age... :-p

May be very interested in your pieces parts.... I really think the cylinder switch is shot.... so..... we may need to talk about offer.

Excellent info Subaru guy's and gal's... This info will get me going into the right direction. I will try making a key first..... No, the 88 is a wagon.. so no go on that. Yes, the Hatch has tilt steering. The Subaru dealer said he, "CAN NOT" use vin to cut new key... too old and no info available. Will try key then look for replacement kind of thing...

My new-2-me 84 Hatch has an issue with the Ignition/switch. The key is worn down but does work great in the doors but in the ignition it is very diffecult to get the key too sit just right for it too turn over and same trouble rolling back too shut down. Also, once started you can pull the key out of the ignition...which it shouldn't do that so I am thinking it is worn out and no good. I called the Sub. dealer... $220 for new igniton/key... I do have and 88' parts car. Will the Ignition in that steering column work in my 84 Hatch? Are key barrels/ignition tough to change out from the steering column once I find a good one with teeth still on the keys? I talked to a lock smith and he said he can make a new key based on the passenger side door lock, take it out and take it too him.. but I am thinking there is a problem with the ignition barrel and a new key won't make a difference.