Indrid cold

NOt that hard to do. Do a search on it, lots of info. When properly in place it will be FLUSH with the engine surface and use Blue lock/tight when installing/Torquing main bolt. (Read the search stuff.)

welcome too the site. 149K on your car, it is just getting broken in. Great rigs and hope you enjoy the ride.

Read the Q. & A., interesting.... Life span is as a normal plug: 50,000 miles. Yea, agree with above post a set of 4 is more then I paid for my car...cars... something like that. Someone on the site should buy one, disect it and ...well...

This also depends if you have those "spacers" for the exhaust loop thingy..what ever... then you have two bolts that hold the spacer to the head and two studs that hold the exhaust up too the spacer. The bolts that bolt spacer too head are 10mm 1.25 x 25mm Metric Socket Head Cap Screw. Studs are an easy comodity from the auto parts and can be cut too length if you wanted it shorter. I try too double nut the stud to prevent them from backing off but these cant be the heavy sized as they won't have sufficient clearance to rotate. Good luck..

Just as a reminder: Disable the fuel pump/ground out spark from coil when cranking over when plugs are pulled. You don't want live fuel being ejected out of plug holes onto a wild spark plug wire and then you get this fire... and then your running inside the house real quick and the wife askes "Whats wrong dear?"... "Nothing, just car's on fire!" as you blast past "Again!?" as her voice fades into the distance as you spray down the fire..... (She still loves me... my wife too) Sounds like you got it covered. They are tough rigs for sitting and starting back up.

I think these wagons have been posted before but thought it would be worth the refresher: I spent 3 days in Issaquah, Washington. I rode my mountain bike around... saw alot of new roo's... not much old stuff? But I did find these seven wagons tucked in around this closed Shell Station. You know, just west of the Chevron off of Front St. any who.... I am curious what treasures may be hidden in the old garage and side building? Sitting so long the moss has made a new home. http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj50/oneducklong/Mossyroo--2.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj50/oneducklong/Mossyroo--1.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj50/oneducklong/Mossyroo--3.jpg I also drove South on Front St. about 4 miles and found "Hall's" wrecking yard and found them working in the back garage on a Rat rig so I added the pic..... (No Brats or Hatch's, or 5 speed tranny's hiding in his yard.) http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj50/oneducklong/ratrod-1.jpg

Doing rear brake conversion on my Brat.... while I have it apart should I regrease and put new seals on or am I wasteing time and money for a warm fuzzy feeling that it has new grease and seals?

A complete rebuilt dist. with module cost me about $160 from Schucks auto supply. Just the module is about $150. so yea... stupid not to just by a new Dist. and drop it in if you want new or find one at a junk yard. How to determin which make you have is there are numbers on the side. D4Rxxxx is Hitachi I think. Too the left of the number is the Hitachi stamp...kind of looks like a Niki sign...

Exactly my point ... my other 88 has some rust issue from the Wet side of the state but to make the swap into this better body would be major time sucking event... I just had to pull the plug for my next adventure to begin and that is to 5 sp. my Brat. Along side the 88', still in reserve is my 82' wagon(no engine), no rust, premo shape... sitting in slumber amongst the weeds...waiting...waiting... +1 on the save what I can... and will see about contributing parts to the members once I figure out how far I am going to pull parts and storage. (at in-laws acerage.)

My first ever gut-out of a Subaru... long story short (too late!) I have two 88' wagons (non-T): One that used to run DL, (parked 2 years ago-needs clutch & engine reseal-another day) has the 5-speed with the button 4x4, was a great runner. The other 88' wagon (no engine, cracked front window, bad axles x2, minor body bangs, window down, cat gave birth to kittens, spiders & I have harvested misc. parts too keep my other wagon running) has the Hi/Low 5 speed GL, body is virtualy rust free that I got for free over 3 years ago. I have a Brat with a bad Tranny that has sat for almost 4 years so the logical thought is to put the 5 Hi/Low speed into the Brat. Been in contact with BratsRus1 (jerry) regarding his installation kit etc... and getting ready to start my first every tranny rip-out and 5-speed install... to get my son's 84' Brat back on the road. I hate to toss a near rust free 88' GL but it has sat in the back field nearly 4 years and I know I will never put the $ back into bringing it too life so I think it is time too pull the plug... which I did today. Thus far I have the computer (black box) under the dash, the dash is 90% disconnected (can't believe all the wires!)so I can get the wiring harness, Monday I will harvest the tranny for the Brat and anything else under there that looks like saving. It may have been a rash, Noob-move to just go out and pull the plug but that's what I did... time of death 7:50 p.m., computer pulled... So a simple question: Is there anything else that I should remove to save for my other 88'? DL-vrs-GL?

Here they are.... I borrowed these from an old Mechanic.

You should find someone who can do it for about $90, professionaly done if you supply the window. That is the best, cheapest route. My .02 cents. I recently paid to have my Hatch done, $300. I did my Wagon 3 years ago, about $25 for window and $20 for glue, $15. for good caulk gun. I used the hot glue method. Clean inside edge of window good, apply pre-treater. I heated my glue cartridges too 210 def. F. by getting an alluminum cheap pan, layed an inch of sand in, layed tube in and burried sand over the top. the sand will act like a heat sink and bring the temp up at a constant rate. Set BBQ on med. and put inside.... over an hour.. used a needle thermometer and checked temp. by sticking into center of sand between cartridges to assure temp to about 220 and held there for about 10 min. Gets fuzzy here... cant remember if your suppose to pierce tubes first before heating etc.. but pre-cut ends to proper shape before heating. Prior to glueing I aligned window with spacer on the bottom taped in place to assure window can be quickly centered by resting window on lower spacers so the window won't slide down. Assured all nicks and scratches to paint under window were properly treated to prevent rust. Pull out Hot glue cartridges, (wear leather gloves) lay down proper bead of glue, (I used two people, 2 glue guns-must be heavy metal ones-not cheap-o's) lay in window and press in the middle and work out and press around glued area, allow to cure. Which ever product you use if you do it yourself there is mfg. info available on line to help. Since I have done one and paid for one complete install... I personally think the install should be left to those who have at least worked under someone who know's what they are doing. A local shop said if I got the window he would install it for $90. that is the best route if a person wants to do it cheaply but assure to have it done right and it needs to be done right.

Mine was doing the same thing... I used left over glue that I used to install the window. RTV, silicone may be a good choice, fill the opening push trim back in.. taped down, let it harden. I am thinking even, "Goop" found in (small towns) local hardware stores might be a good selection as it is much like RTV but might be user friendly. Curing time in the cold may be a day or so but on a sunny day point the car into the sun. The trim is rather expensive to replace if your looking for new, so a junk yard raid might work if the other trim is a mess.

an old Subaru Mech. told me that is called a "Jap Slap!" and yea... he recommended to me giving my old EA-81 a proper slap once in awhile.... hmmm... interesting.... so I seafoamed, put a leather glove on and flat palmed over the carb... not sure if it was just a story but figured... why not...

Assure to put anti-seze on your plug threads each time they are removed. Cast iron heads were much more forgiving then the allum. heads. You can usually find little one use packets in the auto store or by the can. I put some on the plug threads and a light coat on the buggerd threads in the head and slowly worked each plug in, backed off and back in etc.. and became usable just by doing that. Anti-seze is a must on the plugs. a previous post someone suggested: ..after all that is done and threads still messed up, put some thread lock (epoxy, expando etc..) on the threads, drive it in till it seats, let it cure and run it for a couple years then deal with it another day.

I built a test adapter for the radiator from an old radiator cap. Soldered 1/4" tube into top of cap. I am sure you can buy one of these. Hook up to air source with pressure gauge to set pressure. Too find my leak I had too warm-up the engine (not hot so it can't be touched) but warm enough to open any cracks etc... and then you can get right in there and look for the leak. I warmed up the engine and pressureized the coolant system to 13-15 psi, looked for leaks. I had to lower the exhaust pipes from the heads, pressurize and finaly found the coolant dripping out of the head. Yours could be anywhere but you could safely go too 13 psi and take your time too look for the leak. http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj50/oneducklong/?action=view&current=testcap.jpg

The chiltons points too two possible causes of no starts regarding the Distributor. One is the coil and the other is the pick-up module in the distributor. On some moduls the ignition module is by the coil... Book says too test the coil, if that is good test the module if it can be. Most, there is no way too test them. I took a chance and tossed some parts and cash at it. My dist. was well worn, Refurbished dist. $170. Runs good.

Chevron oil. I drive a 1990 Oldsmobile sillouette.. (-5 spelling, what ever, long nose mini van with big window) any way... 275,000 and running strong, every change on Chevron @ 5,000 mile intervals. (I bought it used at 10,000 miles) so I have driven too the moon and on my way back home and never loosened a bolt on the engine for repairs. These mini van's with the Oldsmobile drive-train have a loyal following and are now known for their high millage abilities! Aside from that, Mechanic friend got me using this when I got the van, he swore by Chev. oil as he see's what's inside the engine and what people used for oil. Been good too me... to each his own. Also running my 2000 Ford now the warrenty is over (switched from Motorcraft to Chevron) and now my roo's which are new too me with in 4-5 years. I usually run 5-30 winter and will probably go 10-30 when it warms up, ... but not set to any grade yet as with you.. curious what some of the old Subaru hands use. I like to change my own: I rub it's under belly, snoop and bond while under the cars.

The Roo will live on in others rigs. "He will be missed" (Line from "Cone Heads" the movie) As for the home, nice place. If you did the Hydronic heat & plumbing.. excellent work if you did it yourself. If you contracted it out... descent job from your contractors. Love Hydronic heat. Have done lots of base-board and then into the infloor heat. Never have done the staple up as you have but just another way too move the heat. Viessman boiler... I hear they are good work horse boiler although I have never installed one. I have installed several of those Phase-II Indirect water heaters.. although it has been awhile.mmm.... (about 8 years since I quit that type of work) You got In-floor in your garage! your killing me... that is the greatest thing... mmmm.... When ever I lay on a heated floor to work on something I ...snooozz.. The 2" insulation under the floor... wow... major insul. there. Nice looking lay out, good pattern etc... on the tubes, it even looks like they were worked up into center of the concrete as it is being poured. In your basement I don't see a Back-flow preventor on your water supply to your boiler (could easily be out of sight in pics) or possibly not required by your local codes etc... Nice display on the copper pipes. Wood burner too! Nice back up system, huge capacity in that thing. Co2 detector in the house I am sure? Up and down? Your water treatment area... wow... nothing came easy in that house between treating the water, to laying the electrical, water etc... The area is so green around your house, I swear I see a deer walking in your backyard. Very nice.... congrats..

Just a thought.... Is it possible to have the logo made into an 8x10 Flyer stye so it can be printed off with the logo being at the top with, who, what, where, when, why information and we can print them and take them to local Subaru parts place or ? as advertisement for the upcoming event?

question with my distributor in my 84 Brat. Pulled it out, main shafting sliding up and down a good 3/8" so found problem as no start: I found problem... never mind... my bad. (this is what really happened, I pulled ditzy, set in box with other parts, picked up wrong ditzy to test it out and noted numbers didn't match with what should be in there... realized after posted that I forgot I had extra ditzy's in my parts box and grabed the wrong one... so figured out I have the right distributor in my rig, but yea... it's bad and need to replace... never mind.)

Is there a way to grease the EA-81? I will be working on the EA-82 this fall... will remember to grease the distributor. Don't mean to jump this thread but good info... After I read this post I pulled my ditzy from my 84 Brat as it died 2+ years ago, and found the ditzy shaft moved up and down. I did a search at Schucks auto, and looking at $164. ... so what do you think for an EA-81? any good? By the time a machine shop tears into my used distributor I would be in it at least $50, then bearings and if it is no good then.... I am about 1/2 way into the one I found on line at Schucks..... Cardone Distributor: Remanufactured; ImportIgnition Distributor: Remanufactured; With Module; With Hitachi DistributorWarranty: LTD LIFETIME REPL $164.99 $25.00 core I dug in my parts box, found an old Distributor and put it in and it started right up, smoked for about 5 minutes. but would like something a bit fresher... so not sure if I will send it in for rebushing or just get a new one... your thoughts?

Not too bad and stoppable at this stage. Talk too your auto paint people for advice. My 2 cents: Here is advice I got from others on the site To treat rusted area use "Rust-Mort" basicly remove dirt, large chunks and brush on. Let it sit a day and do it again. Then primer over and paint, but better yet cover with "Pro-15" sealer.

Sucks.... I think a good warning would have made a more loyal employee... but who am I but a working stiff. They made their point to the other employee's and an example of you. Set backs like this can be a positive in your life. You never know what will come up from the ash's. good luck.

neat to sit back and watch it happen.... Nice score on the Subaru, great price and welcome to the message board! ........ My 2 cents: In case your totaly new too the roo's; You may be due for a valve adjustment on the EA-81 motor if it hasn't been done in awhile. (Non Hydraulic lifters up till about mid 1984 or so need it every 10K miles or so.) It isn't a very diffecult job to do, time, new valve cover gaskets and a chance to bond with the roo. How too do it is in the owners manual if still in the glove box, recommended not too loosen the head bolts as shown, just assure head bolts tight, adjust valve clearance and put covers back on.