Indrid cold

+1

So possibly * = 1, 2, 3,(*hicup) 3, 4, .2 quarts = 5.2 quarts? It was explained to me ( my first time I put 5 quarts in ,) is that when turning a corner or such the oil can get above the oil pan and be beat to a froth by the movement of the piston rods or main crank possibly creating poor pumpable oil in the pan ... other then that no problem.. but what is too high on the stick.. ? If I am a little high I don't worry about it as the oil pans seem spaciously designed for some overfilling, but if it does bother you it just takes a moment to take some out.

Welcome Wallaby... interesting place too land, Clarkston... I recently headed out to a farm South West of Pullman to get a free subaru but found it was taken to a j/yard in Lewiston 2 weeks prior to me getting there so possibly sitting there somewhere? Used to have relationship in Clarkston so made many trips to and from. 2-Brats... man... lucky. Lots of open area there!

Great info! Please throw a couple pics in here.... if you have any... I will have to put that in my "things to do, places to go" list. (Checked off, drive Subaru down ocean beach this summer, WCSS-10:cool:) Would make a great "escape the Tri-cities heat" get away.

From the exhaust headers the exhaust pipes intersect at a wye connection converting to a single pipe out through the muffler, Starting at the wye connection and traveling back a few feet along the exhaust pipe, (under the passenger area) the exhaust is encased in a "heat shield" which is a two piece (pie pan) metal shell that bolts together encasing the exhuast piping, creating a heat shield.

The single green and the White connectors are for testing/timing/diagnostic .... Those should be disconnected under normal driving. ..... as for the black connectors... I can't remember... (sorry not much help but this post will get you back to the top of the list) ................... Help him out here guys.... *also, check your private message box.

Yup... when that second one comes along... it's like... Oh yea! I messed up on my third free roo... went to crusher before I got there... snooze you loose...

.......... Tires, rims... if in good condition... sure $100. Done better and probably done worse. +1 on connections and recognizing great deals when they come along... There is a learning curve to most anything new..... the more you know the more schrude of a dealer you become which I believe is why your asking. Don't take it to heart... as it depends on how bad you needed them and how flexible the seller was. Part's prices very wildly in diff. parts of the country... no pull and parts here... so top dollar on anyting in J/Y. as they pull and we pay out the nose. My .02 cents. Sometimes there are those that sell things that live in the glory day's of that item. "O'yah... she's a runner, deserves top dollar by gum!" when in fact, it doesn't. Those types make my skin crawl, I just have to walk away from, give them my number, my price and walk because it's like they have these rose tinted glasses on and all they see is what it did for them and not the rust holes that are now showing... etc... and they would rather have it rust to nothing then let it go too anyone for less then they felt it was worth... A member of the board pounded it into my head to remember these cars are 20+ years old, parts etc.. they should be paying US to haul the cars or parts away! Sorry for preaching....

Welcome too the Board. the term... baby steps come too mind. Not sure of your skill level but mine was about one on a level of 10... and once you spend some time loving and cussing at these cars... they become very friendly to work on. So it just takes time and a will to learn... I say replace only as parts go bad, not on looks unless $ is not an issue... the clicking could be your front bearings... along with the axel.. You will need some Subaru cotter pins for axel castle nut, they seem to be the only things that fit unless you have an extra nail to bend over... My 88 has connectors under the hood, green and white to make it do the code checks, disconect when done testing, (be honest with you I can't remember which too connect... mine has ran so well that I haven't needed to test?)... at some year they put the connectors under the dash by the puter... not sure on the 89 year. New plugs, wires, rotor and cap and time to 20 deg. BTDC (I believe) goes a long ways. a used Chiltons can be had cheaply along with the "how to sections" in this web-site and help from these cats which, if there not , usually great info... Plan on anything you do taking longer than you think and possible have another rig so youre not rushed or pushed... I am sure others will jump in. I loved my push button, on the fly 4x4, even without the Hi/Low on the tranny. Fun to drive... kind of doggy on the starts but fun on the back roads and town driving and in a bit of rough or slippery road just tap that button with the thumb and leave the others behind! Good luck...

I did my 88 wagon. Used the glue cartridges you have too heat to 180+ deg..(something like that) assure paint under glass is touched up to prevent rust etc.... and set window in etc... Cost $25. (got glass from j/y) My Hatch, I took it too the local glass dealer... got a hair cut, drank a pop.... drove away.... Cost $220. I will probably let the pro's do it from now on (prying open that can of worms) ..... but it was an interesting experience. Glass dealer would probably do it for reasonable amount if you have window...

Wow.... didn't think it would have been possible to save that Brat. Very nice... You should get "Rebuild of the Year" if there were such a thing.... I better go out and fix some of my tiny rust spots!

Bias valve... is that the same thing as a Proportional valve? Possibly try a search for Proportional valve if that is what a Bias valve is? I have been told a proportional valve on the brakeing system goes to the lines that feed the rear brakes. I did my rear conversion this summer but havn't had a chance to install one.. some say you don't need them but that just opens a can of worms so do a search if the Prop. valve is the same as a Bias valve or let me know differently. Sorry my reply doesn't clarify your question; hopefully some of this info helps in your search.

Salmon Idaho... nice place. Welcome too the Board! I lived in the Land of I.F., (Idaho Falls) for bout 18 years. Sorry to say I didn't know what a Subaru was when I lived there as what a great place to have a roo with all the back roads etc... I used to get 10 mpg with my old chevy in the hills and could hardly afford to go, now I am a EA-81, 5 sp converted Roo-owner! Next on list will be lifting a rig... mmmmmm... lift.. One of my favorite places to hunt in Idaho was Leadore area. Just after Gillmore summit and North there was a valley called, NigraGreen which has a bunch of old mine shafts, deep valley and great deer hunting... beautiful country there. Curious what the Subaru Poplulation is in your part of the country... possibly some good, old' school finds!

Welcome.... People share their videos and pics from all over the world and great to see your pics! Sorry I don't have any information to share regarding your questions (engine year, specs) but hopefully someone will dig for the answer. Good to hear you bonded with your new wagon (long nights alone... you... the car... some wine.... ) :-p Maybe your wife be jealous a bit! Possibly post your question in the "newer" car section? or check with local dealer for code identification help. Good luck.

possibly ask local member to stop by and have a peek? The more you know the less chance getting taken $.

Once all 4 bolts are out of the diff. it should fall too the ground????? (possibly a couple love taps at the flange)

suspect front crank seal also... One of the easier to change but takes a bit of time ... At the least do those seals listed above.... but there always seems to be a drip that always seems to elude the best re-seal job... grrrrr... If you are looking for a serious bonding time with your roo, pull the motor, install a 5 speed, re-seal the motor and learn to love her that much more.

How long since the oil filter changed? Possibly sending unit is bad.. Located on Oil pump, fed by a single wire. Sure there is a way to test it but not sure, check chilton's etc..

Here is one I like, will post others when I have time.

31.5 MPG, in my 84 Brat, 288K miles on carbed engine, new 5 sp. conversion. Did about 700 miles total to WCSS and ocean trek, cost me about $90 in gas for the trip. Yes, it is good...

Just did the 5 speed install and lengthened the drive line in my 84 Brat. They installed new universals (with zirc's), spun balance etc... Price was about $230. I am pleased with the one piece as it was simple with no mods for the center support. Another board member recommended I call the drive line specialist's in Portland because they got a great deal, which didn't happen for me as I got a similar bid + shipping= $250. Others got quotes for $160 at their local shops for just lengthening (new tube and 2 welds) but my local drive line people said my universals were too worn and wouldn't spin balance if used. I know this didn't answer your question but I thought I would throw some prices out there for comparison.

I guess I fall under this heading.... 9 months ago I was laughing that I would have enough time and $...... well... here I sit in pieces... 5 sp in Brat, engine now in and running, lots of little issues but can't test out clutch do to failed new axle... guess I forced it a bit on the rush install and popped a bearing out and it came un-hinged as I let out the clutch... rut-roe... but so far looking good and hope to have it on the road about the 4th. Sorry no pics as my puter has died.

Subaruparts.com (Tacoma subaru or someting like that.. sorry don't have their phone number with me.) great place to get parts, cheap, ship fast. I got a new oil pump for a great price + quick delivery.

In process of putting 5 spd. into my Brat. (Have Bratsrus1 tranny kit in hand.) The question: Can I use the 2-piece drive line from my 88 Wagon that I got the tranny out of in place of the one-piece drive line from Brat? The story: I took the drive line to the drive line people and they said my U-Joints are wore out and they should be replaced as they won't be able to spin balance with these U-joints.... I wiggled them... seemed o.k., but hey.. their the specialists... any way $300. to extend and put in new U-joints???? The drive line guy wasn't there, (this was the front counter people) but they think the extra 9 inch or so is too much distance blaa, blaa, blaaa.. any way.. even if they do that they want new U-joints... so $300. Can I use the 88 wagon drive line and have the last section shortened to fit? ... I will probably have to make some kind of mounting plate for that center knuckle support? My thinking is the U-joints will be in better shape... also noticed the second section (Differential side) is smaller tube and will have too make sure diff. plate is same hole dimmension or use one from Brat ... any way... I am thinking 88' set up may be the cheapest way if do-able.. but also will pay the $300. if that is what it takes... your thoughts? Update: I talked to the drive line guy and he got me a new everything for $220. I opted for the single shaft simply because I am running out of time +simpler. The two axle reply's were well stated and was really leaning that way so great to know that is an option but just easier to have it ready to pick up and install.