Indrid cold

excellent photo's of your snow experience... wow.... so much fun...

possibly all those in the know are on vacation?... wish I could help but no idea.... and hoping this post would take it back too the top and someone may see it.... anyone... anyone....

earlier post said to spray area with a powder deoderant after engine is clean and dry and it will collect where the oil leaks from forming a trail... I am about to do what you just did so no first hand experience yet as I am still pouring a quart of oil in and leaving a trail down the road:grin:

weak radiator cap? system can't build pressure therefore it will go too a higher temperature.... check seating surface too of the radiator cap, had goop under the reubber of the radiator cap so it wouldn't seal...

I took a 2x4 about 5" long. I took a skill saw and cut a gash across the wood about 1/2" wide x 1" deep and taped that on top of my floor jack, I can then jack up at the jack points on the side of the car as the dangly seam slides in the gap in the wood and the stress is distributed too the wood/jack.

145 sounds right ... I used to use the torque wrench (cheap one with the bar) which was at end of scale for 145 lbs so figure it was close, then I read other posts said they didn't use torque wrench but used 3 ft long cheaters, jumped up and down on the wrench, stamp with foot etc... so if they can do that and not have problems I stopped freaking out about my torque as I got my elbow calibrated to what FEELS right, got close with the 145 and found the next hole on the tighter side... so far so good, also after a long drive I will feel the hub and compare with the others to assure not heating up.... which could be castle nut too loose, too tight or early sign of bearing failure.

wow,... Nice shape.... color YOU CAN'T HIDE THAT RIG IN THE BRUSH!

Limberger cheese? You know, take some of that cheese, tie it up in a nylon stocking and tie it infront of the heater duct in your buddies car. Other wise... no idea... check for somthing dead under your seat like a mouse.. them things can really put out the stink when they are curing to jerky.

Interesting... .as I have the same exact rig & close to same miles, ... I will have to dive under and give things a shake. I'm still learning on these things so no idea and too dark and cold to go out and look now yea.. a photo would be nice of what failed...

I asked the same question and loved the reply I got: Remember, this car is 26 years old... 26 yrs. They should be paying us to take it away... even if it is driveable. So my target rate is no more then $100 with a basic problem, axel, bearing, brake.. etc... So, shoot for $300, ... $400 ish...running... sure, less would be better but the owner may be proud of what he has and won't go less... so... it depends on how bad you wan't it, how often a car like that comes around and how handy you are with the tools cause at 26 yrs... it will be needing some loving time. A running subaru is like 600 here and beat too near death... once in awhile a deal comes up and gone in a flash..... so 400-500 would be a deal but not braging rights. good luck good luck...

Noooooooooooooooooo......... the in-humanity of it all... glad too hear your safe. 88, wagon... that's what I have, sorry for your loss. there is a 91? wagon for sale in the Tri-cities (Kennewick WA) , Call (509)948-6937, I think his name is Dave.... can't remember. asking $800., probably let it go for $600. ????? I went and looked at the wagon, a touch rough on the exterior and some rust issues and misc, but he was a subaru mech, gone ford, and has done some solid work too this car (EA-82, 5-speed with HI-Low 4x4, manual tranny)... nothing shinny about rig, just solid set up... I know it is a bit far from Seattle but this should be dependable rig... if not sold. Sorry no power windows in this one I think, just older, reliable rig I believe... will need the rust addressed and repaint if taken too a wetter area like Seattle.

They grow up so quickly don't they. :-p

Keep us posted on this. I have been chasing a similar problem with my 88, also woundering if possibly a compression check would be in order... possibly a leaking head valve or something? I don't know just a noob thought...

Welcome to the site since this is your 3rd post... yea.. sounds like bearing and if you do a search in the "Search" box, you should find ton's of info. If you read a chiltons they say you need to take to shop and have it pressed off etc... nah.. just read the past posts and it will tell you how. If you havn't done it before... good time to learn and it isn't that diffecult. Plan on your first set taking a long time if your new... the next set you will be a pro... do the search and then bond with your Subee...

I took about a 3/4" thick, 12" wide & 20" inch tall, plywood/particle board, drilled 4 holes (on 1/3rd end of board) for the tire studs and one in center big enough to allow socket onto middle nut, with wheel off I can slide this onto the studs so the board is just off the ground, put socken on axe nut and turn the nut and the board corner will jam on the ground preventing the axel from turning. I can loosen/tighten axel nuts in this manner without having the tire on the car etc.. I adjust elevation of car and distance of board too ground by using jack and stand on end of wrench... also when I am at the Subaru dealer I buy half dozen axel cotter pins and leave some in the glove box just too have them available.

was the throttle plate propped open? looking at the chiltons, I don't find a Throttle plate on my SPFI (single point fuel injection)... so no I guess I didn't prop it open if I don't know what it is.... I think that is Carberator related not Fuel injection right?

Workhorse is what they are... Like my sticker says on the back of my rack, "Who needs a Hemi"

It is my daily driver... well kind of... more like my "Weekend Warrior Wagon!" just not much grrrrrrr to it not being lifted and all... but coming.. anyway... I am getting close to pulling the motor for a re-seal, so checking everything over. If compression is close enough and not to much power loss & or performance, I don't want to mess with the heads... I guess... just want to pull, re-seal, do clutch and back in... and run till she drops.... and stronger engine another day perhaps... I didn't put oil in the piston because of that same reason, seems valves fail long before the cylenders think about it... and if the rings are bad... will toss the motor anyway and get a stronger one... another day...

Went into local supply shop, asked for plugs for my 88, dl, wagon, EA-82, non-turbo, clerk said out of one kind, (NGK-6261) but have the other which will work... I took out: Autolite 63, covered in white carbon Store was out of: NGK 6261 :-\ Clerk said these will work: NGK 7133 (BPR6ES-11) They were like $2. a piece and needed them so put them in. Whats the dif, and story with these plugs? Reply: #1, Excellent info Northwet, I will print and paste that inside the Chiltons, I did have too gap. Set at .40, Sube running better and now I know. am curious about the white carbon... kind of thick and plugs arn't that old... well... since spring anyway or was that last fall...?

1988 dl, EA-82, SPFI, NON-TURBO, 150K + miles (guess) Pressure test on engine: chilton says pull plugs, disconnect the cold start valve????? (w.t. heck), and coil wire, ... connect pressure test gauge, depress accelerator, crank and read... didn't know what the "cold start valve" was so just remove air filter house from top, pushed accelerator and did the deed... here are the numbers: .....................X (fan)................ #2....175 psi.......#1....162 psi #4....170 psi.......#3....152 psi so.... what do they mean? NO cold start valve on my wagon per later post. Soo... that answered that question as I was looking at Schematics in the chiltons and coudn't find it so I just pulled the air inlet boot off the top of the throttle body. Fuel pumping into cylenders possibly raising pressure test?... Yes there was a heavy fuel smell and was woundering about that since I did #3 twice and the second time was 20#'s higher... possibly didn't get a tight seal in the plug hole the first time...hmmmmm... may be a redo to double check. I think I will pull the fuse to the fuel pump and then test? and per another post...on the Throttle plate in my SPFI system...well... I don't think I have one of those.. kind of like the Cold start valve... I finaly gave up looking. I believe Throttle plate is assoc. with carberators? or am I missing something on that? Reply #2: General D., thanks for the info on the throttle plate... I will do another test next week and see if the numbers come in about the same.

a prior post stated he used a short section of pvc/abs pipe (took old seal in and found a diameter match) as a press to push in the seal as not sure if screwdriver is the best tool for the job. I will be doing my rear seal next couple of weeks so a timely post for me... will be looking for wear on the crank shaft too... BPM, never heard of a speedi sleeve... sounds like the thing I may need also... DasWaff: excellent(update to lower post), would have given you credit but hard to keep track of all them posts: Also, me being a Plumber sounds like you are descibing a, 2" Female I.P. X Female Slip clean-out adapter, with a threaded plug as the driver. I would have confirmed this size but when I went to pick up my rear seal today from local Subaru dlr. the guy handed me a rear oil plate or what ever?..oops, he marked down wrong part number.... so, hopefully at next opportunity I will try out the, DassWaff Seal tool.

There was an earlier post that made the recommendation to replace the Tranny & Motor mounts, more so for the older cars and easier to do when you have the motor out for a re-seal/replacement such as I am about too do. The writer of the post stated it felt the drive system was snugger/tighter or what ever and made that recommendation, much like the front end suspension and the rubber bushings etc.. I have an 88 wagon, almost 20 years on them... they look fine but? so would it be a waste to change them?

Hey General... can you work that same kind of VODOO with the IRS? I dred the day they make us do emissions here on the East side of WA. so I better copy this post for my records as it is coming this way...

i run across a lot of deer also, the way the lights are aimed i can see for about 3/4 of a mile ahead of me at night. (my wife says if i'm really careful i could see seattle from our house with them on. ) car...http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=12755&cat=500&ppuser=18606 ............................................. I like the way he has his mounted.. in front on the car... the cheaper lights have alot of scatter in their light so when mounted up top (light bar) offer good light spread but blinds the driver with the glow... so up front on the bumper is a good place to start with the spread beam/cheaper lights.

I was crossing a bridge from WA into OR when "THUNK" something came flying out from under the car... don't believe tire knocked it up but possibly, I took foot off accelerator and just after bridge I took an exit and when I used the brakes the cars left brake began to grab WICKEDLY, it included a loud grinding sound, hard pull too the left... It took me most the off ramp to slow it down in a controlled manner...got it back into a parking lot and took both front tires off.... everything tight, brake pads are accounted for and all looks good? No damage to rotors? With no tools, no idea even where to start and sun getting lower in the sky I called :-\ a tow truck and got the prime-rib special from the corner resteraunt where I landed and the tow truck brought me back home into WA. (AAA-100mile tow contract) got too love them. This morning I took left front brake apart, pads are fine, (changed last spring) and all looks good.... I pushed brake to extend caliper and works great.... something is wrong and I can't quite figure it out.... any ideas? I have parts car and was thinking about changeing caliper but it seems to be fine, same with rotor, same with everything else.. left front brakes grab, grind and car is not driveable in this condition. Noob in training.... Post#2; Thanks for the reply's, yup have pads from left side out and looks good, will pull right side off and then the left rotor, then the right till I find the problem... be right back... (had to go shoping with wife after initial post so ready to dive back in.) Will let you know what I find... SOLVED: Post #3: Problem solved.. Lost one of the two bolts to the "Support" bracket that holds the brake pad bracket in place. You know when you pull your rottor (after brake pad removed) you reach around under the car to the back side of the rotor housing to remove those two bolts... well... lost a bolt and that allowed system to twist and go into a bind I guess... so off too the parts car and get me a bolt. Thanks guys.. I dug and looked just not good enough, not till I got to pulling the rotor did I notice the missing bolt. I would have walked back up the bridge to find what got pitched from the car if it wasn't so dangerous... no walk ways... All good posts.... and hey?... who was the last guy that pulled that rotor to do the bearings on that side... hmmmm...... "DOH" I got my comeupons... (I will pay more attention to those bolts in the future)... Oh.. one last thing... the bolt went up into my wheel well and punched a hole into the fenderwell before flying out infront of me... it uncovered an ugly rust spot for me to patch up.. so not all bad.