Indrid cold

I like the fact you building your own rack...oportunity to challenge yourself creativitly and work with the hands! That is a stout rack with 1" pipe. Not sure if weight is too big of a factor at 42" long but new too building racks for Subaru's myself as just started my first ever. I am currently building one for my 88dl wagon. I am using 1x1x .065 wall square tubing. I have main frame welded, lots of features still too go it is almost full length 65" of wagon so I am trying to watch every bit of weight I can as it all adds up on such a large roof rack so my idea is always evolving as I put it together. I think I will be about 6" deep as I see yours is...but not that far yet. I got pictures, but it is of steel all over the floor and parts and pieces so not much help here but I would like too see pic's when your done and total on weight and cost. Good luck.

Thx, E-mail sent.

Hey, scratched some funds together...bought steel making Safari rack with front light bar.... how deep should I make the basket? Sat tire on top of car, figure 2" clearance under and leaning toward about 6" deep from bottom to upper rail? Seen some in mag for jeeps, look shallower... some deeper... just plan on putting usual up top, tire, tent, tarp shovel... what ever... don't want it to come out looking like a shopping cart deep (Dorky) nor shallow (Whats that good for?)... Putting on my 88 wagon, dl, any suggestions on depth? Thanks in advance. (come on guys... building it as we speak... any thoughts.. Will check in morn before I start cutting final dimensions..)

Quote:..... take the old one out (bearing) and grind down the side a bit so it slides easily in the houseing and make that in to a tool to tap in the new bearings. .... ...................... I like that idea... cleaver....

Got that from someone on the site regarding packing greese in housing. Probably still floating around but basicly, 1/3rd full is just right.

Do a search on this as lots of info. However; I am sure others will gladly spill forth needed info. One thing I did find out after I did mine and found this site was that to fill resevoir (wheel bearing housing) with about 1/3rd full of greese. More is not better. Make sure you pack your new bearings before installing. Never strike on inner race when installing etc... I will let the pro's take over Good luck.

Not sure where too put this. Looking for driver of Grey Brat. Had enough time too mention this site before light changed.... Once you join send me a message through this site.

Nice...very nice looking wagon... love the tinted winders, sharp tires, crisp...baby... crisp sorry can't help with ?.

Thanks Pappy for the photo attachment of tool in action. ahhhhh... a picture is worth a thousand words.. "doh".... Even if a person can go by feel... I like the scratch built stuff. If nothing more then too "Stick it too the man." and able to build it yourself. Quick, simple, may have to add one to my tool box.

I'm with him.... I am still scratching my head on the part of ....How does it work? I love the homemade end of it... have done belts once... torque? I just kind of went with..... seems to be right.... Picture of it in action? Thanks,

Nice... lots of details in there....

Not sure where to post this but I knew I had too. Short as I could make it: ad in paper, Broke but thought, what the heck.. drove over, 86 Subee dl, wagon, carb. Manual, awd. 250k Owner: makes horrible noise, sell for $300. Interior exlent. Exterior exlent. No rust, nice tires...exhaust old. #3 plug..laying next to the hole:slobber: hence the horrible noise Oil fill covered with sock:lol: oil over engine, noted some coolent under... hmmmm. *little devil pops on left shoulder.. angel on right... do I tell them about plug..don't do it.. do it.. / I told them bout the plug,... gave him the low-down on the rest... and the end that I am broke till next friday... and $100 is all I could go.... he said he doesn't have time to work on it... it's mine if no one goes higher and he will call me for a chance to out bid... I havn't told the wife... & crossing fingers.... we will see.

On the beach, Subaru in Repose. Sweet.

$100.... nice..... Guy down the street was selling something close (bad turbo) & wanted $500. I got him down too $300. but still too much.... I mean there 20 years old... you know... $100. is the magic number... or free... that is where I set my limit..$100. they got to be premo to go for more then that.... NICE....... now... go bond!

From what I have heard on older cars (older then about 95) you can fill the tanks right up to the flapper which I do... just throattle the pump nozzle by hand, ... on newer cars you shouldn't do that... I have no Idea why, just heard that on a car show, something about revents that get flooded and no longer work and it messes with the sensors.... blaa..blaa..bla.. also: "Where's my two gallons?" you wouldn't happen to be punning the paper-boy from the movie, "Better off dead."?

I also got this from another post and thought it was clever: Take Latex/Nitrile glove. Snip off just the end of each finger, push plug wires through and plug into distributer (4-plugs, 1-coil wire) then pull glove down over cap and zip tie close at base also zip tie each finger end.

I tell my wife I will be out side, "Bonding with the Subaru." which means something broke and I get to go out and figure it out which isn't a bad thing cause I learn something every time I bond with the roo! Glad to hear it was something simple.

'06 Baja..... were not worthy..... were not worthy.....

Sydloyd and I discussed this last year when I did my window and don't want to beat topic up again, yup, agree he has vallid point and expertiese to match.

Classic example of, "Getter done before the snow fly's" noting the car ramps and stuff under :-\ . All your buddies were out playing and you are on ramps... of course if your like the rest of us you got one that runs and one in process!

so far Torxx, (3rd post I think) gave the information that you were looking for. I replaced mine. First one...and still in place... problem is no way to test it till you hit something or flip over cause yes, they are part of the integrity structure of the car. Would I install another..... probably. With window out a window shop may charge you a 1/2 hr rate or about $80. I think, you could go that route.... if not here is what I did. Yes, clean all the old Urethane off. Any scratch marks must be sealed. I used a can of spray primer and touched up with a Q-tip to prevent rust under window. Try using something that won't scratch surface when removeing. Doesn't have to be perfect, just clean. Follow what Torxx said, I cleaned inner window trim with Alcohal, then put on the activator, about 1/2" in prior too glueing down. Window shop also gave me a little marker that seals bare metal along the inside trim on car,...doh... same as primer but make sure no untreated metal. The "Hot" window glue MUST be 200 deg F. at least. I bought one glue gun/solid metal from Home depot. The cheap $1. caulking guns arnt strong enough to push glue out so I spent $9. and got a solid, strong caluking gun to apply and had another that was solid enough to do the job, so you need two of them, one for each side. Here's the trick. I heated my glue in the BBQ next to the car. I used a small aluminum pan, 1-1/2" of sand on the bottom, and covered to 1/2" sand on top. I set a thin path brick 1" or so thick on lower rack, then two tubes of the hot glue packed in sand on top of the brick. I stuck a Needle thermometer (small dial face with a long prope) into the sand in between the glue and turned BBQ on med-low, took about 1.5 hours. The solid brick under the glue will be the main heat sink, the sand should protect the glue from to hot on top and cold on bottom etc. I let mine heat too 200 deg, but next time will go too 240, let the heat come up and turn heat down and get it too hold there too assure tubes are fully heated.. Probably 250 deg above may be too much? but the glue MUST be over 200 deg. I can't remember if I pre-snipped the ends or pre-punchered the tubes? any way, gloves, glue and follow Torxx directions for applications along with directions on tube. Must look like this ^ when applied. I pre-fit the glass and used wooden shims (spacers) on the bottom to center window and got partner too look at gap on side so we both new too center side to side. We wore glove, put the tubes in, made the application to the windo trim, grabbed the window and set in. We didn't have a very smooth bead at first and it leaked at the top, ... of course, so I heated the tube up again and filled the gap at the top and shoved the trim in.... no leaky after that and the trim is in too stay! I got my window from a U-pull for $15. I got two tubes of glue, activator and some trim paint seal from local glass dealer for FREE... couldn't beat free as I think they felt sorry for me...wear old cloths when you go in and ask questions. Interesting experience.

*scratch head..... I think my 59 GMC truck had wire....like a spring inside to keep the bend uniform and hose from collapsing... cant imagine anything like that in there today... unless a modification prior to you buying it and or you found the missing screw driver that the previous owner lost when he was installing the hose... :-\

I smiled when I read your post: long story short my Nephew found my Red Subaru Wagon in Seattle he had painted the wheels BRIGHT YELLOW .... after we replaced motor and before he delivered it he painted them BRIGHT RED... Arggg.... Kids. Color? Lime Green?

Hey, EA-82, F.I., none Turbo. You know those 1/4 inch heater hoses that run to the carb and out the back the dealer wants $14. apiece.... so.... I used 1/4" fuel line as one split, .... the back one is a sharp 90.deg bend... seems to be o.k. but not as tubular as the factory formed... Any problems with using the fuel line rather then the factory formed 1/4" hose?