RallyKeith

In the age of Mapquest and google Maps can you give us a general town? I live in reading, and these days people consider that outside of philly. Keith

I race. I rally, I rally-x, I auto-x, and I run occasional solo1 or timetrials. Haven't had time for anything other than Rally the past year now. http://www.rockyroadracing.com Keith

11.66 volts might be a weak ground connection. Volt meters draw a tiny amount of current and thus don't need much of a ground connection to get a reading. The motor however draws probably an amp or so of current, so it needs a good ground. If the ground is weak then it can't pass the needed current and thus the motor won't run. So, check the grounds in that circuit. Keith

If you have the owners manual for the car you can read it for yourself just to prove that I'm telling the truth, but the owners manual says it is normal for the factory gauge to appear to rear 0 at idle when the car is warm. 15psi on an aftermarket gauge sounds right on the money. That is what my RX was running when I had it on the road. I even replaced the oil-pump while doing the timing belt just for sanity's sake, and it never went up. Keith

I posted about this in one of your other threads yesterday. There is a coolant temp sensor located on the coolant cross over pipe. Its burried underneath the intake manifold and very hard to see. This sensor tells the ECU what the operating temp of the car is. When the engine is cold it runs rich. One of the common ways people find their sensor is bad is when trying to re-start the car after it is already warm. If the sensor is bad, sometimes when re-starting the eninge when it is already warm, the sensor tells the ECU that the engine is cold, it goes into rich mode, and floods the engine and the car won't start. Have you ever had this symptom? Keith

Ed is right about there being two sensors but didn't point out what the one thing the ECU really is doing. It's main job is to tell the ECU if the engine is cold or not. If the engine is COLD it RUNS RICH, once it gets up to temperature it runs normally. If that sensor is bad it will often times think the car is cold when it is really warm and the car will run rich. The most common way to find this out is when you go to start the car when it is already warm, it will flood the engine and it won't start.

Was the Battery Charge Light on? With my 96 when the alternator died both the Battery Charge light and the ABS Light came on. If you drove the car long enough with no working alternator it would lose power and die. Keith

You can download the 2005 Rule book from their website. http://www.rally-america.com/rules.php Pages 37 to 44 of the book (43 t0 50 of the PDF File) go over all the different requirements. The other way to get one is to become and Member... I think. I was automatically a member when the switch happened and I got a rule book, but I never renewed. I've only been running NASA stuff the past two years. Keith

There are specs in the rule book for how to build the cage. They are complete inculding acceptable materials, thicknesses, hoop locations, mounting locations, acceptable weld locations, and the list goes on. You don't have to have someone specific build the cage. It is best to go to someone who has done it for other rally cars, but it isn't neccisary. We had ours built buy a place that builds tube frame drag cars. Once the CAR is built it will have to go through an annual tech inspection where the cage will be verified. So in other words, if you don't have an RA rule book yet that is the first thing you need to get. It tells you in there what needs to be done. Good luck and be safe! The cage is defenitely the one area you don't want to skimp on. Keith

I have this one from Apex'I in my RX http://www.hopupracing.com/aptuti.html Really nice litte unit that also has a hook up for the O2 sensor so it can show you some rough A/F Ratio numbers. The main electronics mount under the dash and then the display/control stick is nice and small. I mounted mine right infront of the intrument cluster on the steering column. Keith

Don't have any info on Jasper, but being as your BIO says you're in Denver Colorado I would take a look at CCR. http://www.ccrengines.com/ They specialize in Subaru engines, come with a 3 year / 36000 mile warrenty, and are located in Denver.

6' Tall 240 or so pounds. '05 Legacy GT Sedan with cloth seats. I do have the 4 stage Heated Seats. Do the 2.5Is have that? Maybe there is a difference in the GT seats versus the 2.5i? Something else I just thought of. My girlfriend is only about 5' 5" and if she schlouches in the seat she finds it uncomfortable because of the built in lumber support. That was what I was thinking about when I made my comment relating it to feet and arches.

Sorry, but I have to put my vote in for very comfortable. I've had back problems ever since being rear-ended almost 3 years ago in my STi. I bought my 05' Leg GT with cloth seats only a month ago (left-over) and already have 2500 miles on it. 1 hour each way to work, and 6 hour each way trip from PA to NH and they are great on my back. I also have a 95 Brighton and a 96 GT and all three have eaqually comfortable seats in my opinion, even thought they all have different feels. As for pedal arrangement this is really the first automatic I've driven. I come from stick shifts and racing them, so I think the pedal position is fine. As for spring force on the pedal I don't notice that it's weaker than any of my other cars. I might suggest that each person that actually finds discomfort actually has a back problem that they don't realize and these seats are aggrivating it? Kind of like a person with flat feet putting on a high quality shoe with proper arch support? Just a thought. I used to find certain seats uncomfortable before I started going to a chiropractor that now I find fine. Like a said, just a thought though. Keith

I need to rebuild the motor from my 96 Legacy GT EJ25 DOHC. I can get a Short block with some form of damage to the end of the crank for about $200. Problem is that it is for an 03-05 Forester, 03-04 Impreza, or 02-04 Legacy/Outback which are SOHC. What are the odds this would work in my car with the use of my heads and intake and exhaust? Anybody have any idea? Keith

Two weeks ago I had the same thing happen in my 96. I was confused by the brake light coming on, but then I remembered what the Loyales do. When an alternator in a Loyale goes every warning light comes on. Keith

Because he payed $70 + $40 shipping for a dealer when his local dealer should have had it $78 + Tax ($5 in PA) to start, not $250. Also, what reputable dealer wouldn't have at least one piece of stock on an alternator used for 5 years of production on basically every model during that period. (95-99 All legacy models used the same 85amp alternator) Thats what I meant by getting ripped. He had to pay more for something a dealer should have had, and should have had at a much lower price than what he was quoted. :cool: Exactly And Roamer, let me just say that in your shoes I don't think I would have done anything differntly other than being willing to try another aftermarket unit first. In the end you are still saving money over the aftermarket piece so it's a win in the $$$ department Keith

See my post above. $78 got me one from Steve Moyer Subaru in Reading.

Yeah, I agree with Firstwagon. You get one bad aftermarket part and you dismiss the entire aftermarket part industry. Also, You got ripped on the OEM part. I just got quoted $78 yesterday from my local subaru dealer for an alternator for my 96GT. Sorry man, but $h!t happens. Not the first time or the last time you are going to get something out of the box that doesn't work right.

Yeah, if the max life is like the castrol high mileage your car will appear to use oil even faster. Those oils have detergents and oil seal conditioners in them that "burn off" faster than regular oil. My 88 RX would use 1 quart every 3,000 miles. I put the Castrol High Mileage in and it went up to 1 quart every 1,000 miles. If I was going to suggest anything it would be look over the engine for leaks. You probably have leaky cam seals or valve cover gaskets, anf the max life isn't really going to help any of that. Keith

Your car isn't broken, but there is a fix. This was I thought fixed for the '06 Models. If you look at someplace like http://www.legacygt.com they refer to it as a shuttering issue. It has to do with the computers control of the turbo waste gate. I'm pretty sure there is an ECU flash that fixes it, but look on the LegacyGT site. I just bought a left over '05 LGT and it does not exhibit this problem. Keith

It probably has something to do with the Jet Ski... I think those are a pain to get on and off the roof unless you got a snorkle intake for the car and drove it into the lake. :-p

Ignition timing is set and controlled by the ECU. If it is valve timing then either something went wrong like a weak tensioner. Did you recently have the timing belt replaced? I know they can be difficult to get all lined up if it's a DOHC. Keith

Have you done a compression test? I'm thinking maybe there is something wrong with a valve that isn't closing that is causing problems. If an exhaust valve in #3 isn't closing all the way it be causing the misfire, and it could be pushing excess raw fuel into the exhaust which would in turn overheat the cat and cause the clog. I would also think it would cause power loss and possible idle issues. Also hooking up a vaccum gauge to the intake manifold might be a good thing to do. This is of course just a WAG (Wild A$$ Guess) but for some reason it all came into my head. Keith

It will bolt up, but you would need to change the rear diff in order to drive it. I'm pretty sure the STi is different than all the other models. Also, unless you get the electronics for the trans you will be driving with an open center diff. Keith

Would it be possible for one of the moderators to put togehter a FAQ Sticky for the whole EJ25 issue? Suggested things to cover: Description of the failure modes of the EJ25 DOHC and the EJ25 SOHC - DOHC fails from the cooling system to the sylinders - SOHC Fails from the colling system to the outside (looks like a leak) List of what years and what models have the DOHC and the SOHC - 96 to 00 Legacy GT and OB had DOHC? - 98 and 99 Impreza RS had DOHC? - 98 and 99 Forester had DOHC? List of things to look at to determine if you have a head gasket failure - Random Overheating - Bubbles in the coolant overflow resevoir List of other things to check if your car has overheated and your afraid it could be the headgasket - Check for air in the cooling system. Park on a slight incline with the car running and up to temp. Then open the bleeder screw on the top of the radiator slightly until coolant comes out. Immediately close. Description of the EJ22 swap (What years are a direct swap kind of thing) - Any EJ22 from a 95 is a direct swap? It just seems like this is the single biggest thing discussed these days so it might be nice if there was something stickyed at the top that people might see and read before asking the same questions that are asked over and over. I invite others to make suggestions and input in this thread and maybe then a moderator could go through it and compile all of the correct information into a new sticky thread? Thanks for your time, Keith