RallyKeith

I paid $1250 for the 72 month 80,000 mile gold package on my '05 legacy GT back in january. I got it because it's the first year for the 5spd automatic with the sport shift, and a new tranny would cost WAY more than that if it has problems. Anyway, I think you shouldn't try to get it for a lower price if you decide to get it. Keith

Just slide the 2.2 Long in and use the 1.8 intake and sensors along with the 1.8 exhaust. My dad did this earlier this year, but he used a 2.2 from a first gen manual legacy, and the impreza he was putting the motor into was an automatic. The only problem you may run into is with EGR tubes. Just make sure you don't get a 2.2 that has the single port exhaust. I think they only did that in 96 or 97. Keith

Interesting. The 04 STI over here is pretty much a one off year. For 05 they changed a bunch or things including the hubs, front control arms, rear fender flare and bumper, interior center cluster, headlight glass, and I think that's all. It was really kind of stupid and one of the contributing factors to me trading my 04 sti in on the LEg GT Anyhow, for some reason the Legacy variants get 250hp, while the Forester was rated at 230, and the Baja 210 or something. It was really weird. If you look at the Subaru USA website today it's all crazy with the Legacy variants being rate at 243, and Forester at Baja at 210 (And the baja is the only one that on the quick glance calls out torque of 235) It's all the same motor, and that's the beauty of it. Just different Intercooler and Turbo setups and different tuning. Keith

Man Setright... you are usually on the money, but this time you're close, but off. Only the 05 and on STi's and the SVX have the 5x114 bolt pattern. (believe me, I owned an 04 and used to swap the wheels around between it and my 95 Legacy) Also, they went to the bigger hub diameter just to go to a bigger wheel bearing for better reliability. Also, I don't know for sure, because I haven't tried or even looked, but my 05 Legacy GT has huge brakes, and I don't think there is anyway to get a 16" wheel over the calipers. I'm not sure if the OB XT has the same brakes or not, but since it's got the same driveline I assume it does. Look into that a little more. Keith

Good point!

Note the flaw in your logic. If a diff is locked, everything sees the same power, therfore you can't have 100% anywhere but the input. The power is applied equally on the output.

Yeah, I'm gonna have to go with this guy doesn't know anything. I spun a CRX once at 60 miles in the rain because I lifted a little too much going into a corner. That's how you're most likely to get into trouble in the rain. There is nothing in a subaru (at least one that is in proper working order) that would cause a wheel to lock.

If you have an automatic then there really isn't a center diff. It's actually a hydraulic clutch pack that acts like an open diff that is biased towards the front under most driving. Only once the TCU detects wheel spin will it begin to lock up, and then it's got a 50/50 split. That is the most you can ever get in an auto. There is no way to put more than 50% power to the rear wheels. So, what your car is doing is completely normal. At first 90% of the power is to the front wheels. You accelerate and the weight shifts towards the rear and the fronts lose traction and begin to spin. The TCU senses that and proceeds to lock up the "center diff" spliting the power and stopping the wheel spin. If you had a manual it still acts like an open diff initially, but there is an actual diff in there. In a manual you can actually get more than 50% power to the rear before the viscious coupling begins to lock up the diff. Subaru did a great job with the ad campaign "from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip" but it doesn't really work that way. A subaru can never take all the power away from any one wheel, or axle. The best it can do it lock everything up so that each wheel is seeing 25% of the power. Keith

Ah... A little more that just a timing belt replacement was done. The water pump was replaced, the cam seals were replace, the crank seal was replaced, and the oil pump was resealed. All of that is at least an hour once you're in there, and don't forget that there is time spent to drain the cooling system, flush, and fill it again.

For Argument's sake, here are the part prices to do the job off http://www.thepartsbin.com A5000-53900 Timing Belt $60.64 G3000-60247 Water Pump w/ water pump gasket $61.84 G4031-38696 Thermostat Gasket $4.88 A8080-102364 Camshaft Seals (2) OEM $17.72 A8060-104474 Crankshaft Seal Front OEM $8.36 A6160-137278 Oil Pump Seal $1.83 A6120-23416 Oil Drain Plug Gasket $2.28 A6000-131112 Oil Filter $4.93 4 Quarts Castrol 5W-30 ~$10 1 Gallon Preston AntiFreze ~ $10 Parts Total: $182.48 Minimum 4 hours labor @ $40/hr = $160 Combined total at "regular" mechanic = $342.48 You COULD save $150 if you went to an independant mechanic, AND they only charge $40 an hour labor, AND they guy is fast. Last time I was at the subaru dealership they charged something like $70 and hour, and I'd bet they charge 6 hours of labor. That being the case I don't think you over payed for genuine subaru parts and a major company backing up the work.

Considering that its the same engine as the STi with a different Turbo and tuning, I think it ought to last 200k. I don't know all the details, but considering that it's a 250hp version of a 300hp stock, "reliable" 400hp on stock internals, engine I think it's probably a good motor. I'd say much better than the 2.0T

I have to eat my words a little. Someone made reference to a TSB in this thread: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10794&highlight=dash+rattle However, I have not found anything myslef. Reading that thread more completely I don't see it. Keith

I agree with what he said. Not to mention that Dealers have the best parts available, and will always install the upgraded parts if a part was changed. Take DOHC Head gaskets for example. You can not get the original design gasket that is prone to blow at the dealer. They only carry the replacement upgraded parts. There is no garuentee that an independant mechanic will get the best parts.

Sorry, you did newbie. TSB = Technical Service Bulletin It's what car companies do for minor problems that aren't safety related. It's not a re-call or something that must be fixed. It's kind of a note to the dealer to say "Hey, seeing this problem a lot. Here's how to fix it." Keith

Ay ay ay..... NASIOC = North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club If I wanted to learn more about my Legacy I'd try something like: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/? or http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ This isn't to say that they have nothing over there, but what is there is not much. Keith

Survey says..... WRONG:grin: (sorry, good suggestion, but in this case there is a documented documented issue with the redesigned legacy dash.) Mine just started doing it last week. It's a common problem, and from what I've read there is a TSB for it. Just take it back to the dealership and they should be able to take care of it. I'll have mine fixed next time it needs an oil change. Keith

Simple fact is that they never made a DOHC 2.2 and there is no way a SOHC 2.2 belt will fit onto a DOHC Motor. So it sound like they just put the wrong part number in. Keith

I believe the difference is going to be the mounting bracket. I've got one from a 2002 WRX that was missing the bracket. When I went to order just the bracket they told me the intake was the same for 2002-2005 WRX and STi, but the bracket was different for the 2004+. So I'd imagine that would be the only problem you would have is getting the mounting braket to work properly. Keith

If it's only there when the engine is cold, then it's piston slap. Piston slap is not a problem. It is caused by the design of the pistons. If it's there when it's warm then you could have a bearing issue. Main or Rod Bearings that are heavily worn and that means the engine is on it's last leg. The questions to ask does it use oil, and did it ever have a blown headgasket? If the owner drove the car for an extended period with a blown head gasket then you're in trouble. What happens then is that antifreeze gets into the oil and eats away at those bearings. Keith

Yeah, I'll second the the fact that a 96 EJ22 does not have plug seals. The plugs enter the top of the cyliner, above the valve cover. Keith

As a point of reference for anyone reading, the inner boots on a Subaru are always the first to go. It's a simple fact because they are located so close to the catalytic convertor. Something else to keep in mind is that when replacing then you should use one piece replacements from the Subaru Dealer. Subaru has invested a lot of time in the material used for those boots because of their proximity to the heat. A new replacement boot from the dealer should last a very long time, as do most orinigals these days. Keith

Not gonna take a wild guess.... It's not external. It's in the tank. Are you sure you're looking at impreza parts and manuals and not Loyale? Everything thing Legacy and Impreza has the pump mounted in the tank. You do however access it through a panel under the rear set, on the passanger's side. Keith

I wouldn't touch any bearings or the pump. If it aint broke don't fix it. My 95 has 198,000 miles on it with all original parts outside wear items like brakes, clutch, and one front half shaft. I've only replaced the rear main while replacing a clutch, and the cam seals while doing the timing belt because I was there and it was a total of $30 extra. My car doesn't burn or leak a drop of oil and has no oil pressure issues, and personally this is the first I'm hearing anthing about 95-96 having oil pump issues. In fact, everything I've ever read says 95-96 are the best years for the 2.2, but that's me, and I'm only a statistical sample of one. Keith

OK, I don't know why no one else has stepped up to the plate, but I'm back to help you out. The two different torques has to do with the fact that you treat the two inner bolts differently than the outer four. Anyhow, I have a PDF file of the procedure that comes from the 96 Impreza 2.2, which should be identical. Just right click save as on the link below: http://www.rallyracers.net/MSA5TCD96I17626.pdf Best of luck. Keith

Your haynes manual sounds correct, except for the crazyness of switching from ftlbs to inlbs. As for the final torque there is none. These are what's called torque to yeild. You torque the bolt to a specific value, and then stretch the bolt by turning it a specific rotation. This is supposed to eliminate the need to retourqe after the motor has been heat cycled a few time. I've only had experiance with the sequence on the 2.5 DOHC, so I can't say your manual is absolutely correct, but it sounds close. Somobody else will surely step up and fill you in. Keith