RallyKeith

Truth be told, Subaru pushed that stat big when the RS came out, and the 60/40 number sounds off to me for the sedan. I seem to remember that when the RS came out the numbers were closer to 52/48 Keith

I 1,000,000,000% agree on this. You can check the oil 50 times, but if you aren't looking at the correct side of the dip stick you will think it's over full. This isn't just some BS. Oil has a wicking action to it. The Dipstick comes into the oil pan at a angle. The side that faces the oil get the wicking effect and the oil travels up the stick. The side that faces the crank does not get the wicking effect and will read more accurately. Check your oil first thing in the morning, pull the dipstick out, wipe it off, put it right back in, let it set no more than 2 seconds, and pull it out again. If you pull it straight out, the left side of the stick should be the side facing up towards the crank. Read the level on that side first, and then turn it over once and check the other side to prove this point. This isn't to say they didn't over fill it, but it is a well documented fact that reading the dipstick in these cars is a challange. Keith

Sorry, I've been dead to the world the past day. The flange was just like you described. The hole in the center was the correct size, and the bolt holes were actually slotted to fit multiple applications. The hardest part is welding it since the wall of the pipe is thin compared to the thickness of the flange itself. Good luck. Keith

I had the same thing happen last year. I even went and pulled one from a yard, and as soon as I got it off and cleaned away the gasket, I found that it was heavily rusted and ready to break. I just went to a local independant exhaust shop and got a flange and welded it on to my original cat my self. The flange I got was about twice the thickness of the original flange, but everything worked out. Keith

See the attached image of the disk.

Basically, when you trade it in you will be canceling the extended warrenty. If you haven't exceeded the original factory warrenty numbers you get it all back. If you have gone past those marks it is some pro rated value they give, but I have know way of knowing. I bought my '05 Legacy january of '06 and also bought the gold warrenty. I'm looking at selling it and was told I could just cancel it and get all my money back. Keith

That's only easy if you have the gear ratios memorized and the RPM your engine turns at a given speed, which most people don't. Many people on the other hand do know their tire size, so doing it my way is actually easier, and technically more accurate to the speed being traveled. Got the answer I needed though, so thanks.

Thanks to: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Using a stock tire size 185/65R15 if we use 60 MPH being 1 mile per minute @ 887 Revs per mile times the diff ratio gives us 3604 RPMs on the drive shaft? Sound right

This is really a curiosity thing, but how many RPMs is the drive shaft spinning at 55mph on lets say a mid 90's automatic impreza. I was thinking something with the 4.11 rear. I'm not sure of the exact math to figure that out and was hoping someone here might already know. Keith

You mean I can get cloned for only $5!!!! The problem would be getting it there. As it stands I'm going to register two cars and hope that either my father of fiance comes.

2-18-07 Rocky Road Racing Debuted it’s newly built ’93 Impreza WRX at the SandBlast Rally this weekend in beautiful Cheraw SC. An Early run through the shakedown stage resulted in a high level of confidence in the new car. Everything behaved like it should and the car was up to it’s full potential. This was an event that had twice broken the car before this weekend, once with a broken gearbox and once with a broken suspension mount. But this year was different! Even after getting stuck in mud up to the door sills, thanks to some incorrect directions around a stage that was cancelled, we copmpleted every stage in fine form netting a 6th place Overall finish, 5th in Class. http://rallyscoring.com/results/2007/Sandblast/Sandblast2007DetailUS0.htm Keith

So, I'm getting ready to register later this week, but I have a dilema. Should I bring the '05 LGT as my second car, or my '96 LGT with the 2.2 Swap? The '96 looks like crap with paint's falling off the bumpers and a dented rear door, but it has the appeal of the 2.2 swap... What says the crowd? Oh, for those just reading the first car will be the '93 Impreza rally car with the tuned '02 WRX drivetrain. Keith

The line about it taking out the Case is BS. I just replaced the main bearing on the input shaft of my 95's 5spd a few months ago. There are two bearings on the shaft. A small one where the shaft first enters the case, and a large one on the back side of shaft. The small bearing is pinned in place, so there is no way for it to spin and damage the case. The rear big bearing is held in place by the clamping force of bolting the case together. In my case it was just the rear or big bearing that was bad, but I reccomend replacing both. The little bearing is an easy slide on/off, but the rear big bearing needs to be pressed on and off. Keith

Nope everything is good. No vaccum leaks or missed hoses. Just needed the idle screw turned out. For some reason it was turned all the way in. You could see where the previous owner of the motor had slightly mangled the slot in the set screw as iff they didn't loosen the nut before adjusting. Last night I backed the screw off and set the idle to about 750-800RPM at warm idle. When I started it this morning all was good. NO more worries. As far as power goes... There really isn't a noticable difference.

Big Giant Thread in New Gen about the gasket failures. In there was brought up the Cometic brand head gaskets which are supposed to be superior high performance gaskets. The part number for the EJ25 DOHC non turbo is the same as the EJ257 DOHC Turbo..... Sounds like someone should call a dealership and ask for the factory part numbers for the two....

Well, it hasn't stalled other than that one time, and it was it's first time starting in the extreme cold. It was 51 degrees in the garage when I started it for the first time. This was only the second time I was starting it, and starting it cold. The only thing is that it is idling at about 1200 rpm when warmed up and in neutral. And when it first starts and is cold it pops up to about 2200 RPM before dropping down somewhat to about 1500. I'm thinking that is just an adjustment of the throttle position set screw? Keith

Everything is 95 EJ22 on the engine. 96 ECU and MAF, but the MAFs are identical between the years. It hasn't done any of these things since the first drive, so I'm not worried.

Well, I had the same Phenom this morning, except this morning it was 7 degrees instead of 6 Anyhow, I 100% agree it's an issue with the booster/check valve. After two HARD presses of the pedal I had perfect brakes. I think I'll be checking my check valve tomorrow morning. Keith

I didn't realize I had to click on the picture to make it go. Now I get it.

I was talking about head gasket failures once with a guy I work with who drag races a very serious tube frame camaro. He said all the import guys he knows use the Cometic gaskets. Interesting thing, The EJ257 (STI 2.5 Turbo) uses the same gasket from them as a regular EJ25.....

So I finally bit the bullet and did the swap on my 96 GT. After dumping about $1200 into a combination of fixing one motor and swapping another EJ25 in that wound up having issues, I finally did what I should have done along time ago. Now I must first admit that I was planning on selling this car which was why I wanted to keep it original, but with everything going the way it is I've decided I could use this car around and drivable. Anyhow, I was amazed at how easy the swap was. Power steering pump bracket and AC compressor brackets swap right over. Wiring and vaccum hoses were plug and play. The motor I got was mising the IAC valve for some reason, but that was a direct swap off of the EJ25. All in all I was very impressed. I fully expected to notice a difference in the power loss, but I've been pleasantly surprised at how little of a difference I feel. At 70mph on the highway there is an obviouse difference when you floor it, but during my normal daily drive (back roads never going more than 55) it was awesome! I've only had two random things, and I think they are both normal. #1 The first time I drove it, I found a big hill to test out the power of the engine. Now, this car is an automatic. I floored it through first gear and half of second gear, and then I left off the gas completely and the car stalled. I'm thinking this was just because the TCU and ECU hadn't learned the new engine fully yet. #2 This morning I went to start the car for the first time. It started and ran up to 2,000 RPM. It slowly came down to about 1500 RPM over the next 2-3 seconds, and then abruptly stalled. I started it back up right away and never had another problem. Is it the same thing, the ECU just hasn't fully learned the new engine yet? Thanks, Keith

I don't think that has anything to do with it. There has been no moisture introduced through feet in my car in months. It sat for 4 months before driving it saturday to the garage, and then home again sunday night. Never had any snow on my feet getting in or out of the car. What if the check valve isn't closed when you push on the brake pedal, you won't get any help right? Could it be a problem with the check valve being frozen or stuck in the open posistion?

I took a closer look last night at the two intakes. There is actually a lot that is missing on the 95 manual intake. For one there is no EGR valve, but there are also a lot of Vaccum lines, and a few vaccum valves that are not there. On the Automatic there are two vaccum lines that run from passangers side of the engine to a valve bolted to the strut tower. That valve isn’t there on the manual car, and the hoses a routed a little differently. I’m really not sure what any of it does, but all probably relates to the EGR system. Keith

My 96 just did this this morning. 6 degrees outside, super stiff pedal and almost no braking. By the third or fourth time I pressed the pedal all was fine. This was after about 1 minute of idle, and then 3-5 minutes of driving. The temp gauge on the engine had moved somewhat by the time the pedal acted normally. Now, the funny thing is, I just did an engine swap on this car this weekend, so the vaccum hose to the booster was just hanging in mid air from saturday afternoon until sunday afternoon. The fluid in my brake resevoir looks dirty (brown) so I think the first place I'm going to start is with a complete fluid flush of the brake system.

Good to know. They said the bolts were something like $1.40 each which would have added another $8.40