RallyKeith

Yes it is a 2.2 That is around where I was thinking, but with all the other stuff I'm not sure, and that's why I'm asking.

Sorry guys, with the way the boards been restructured over the past few months I totally missed out on this thread. So anyhow here's my story: Three years ago I came out with what had to have been the first SOLD STi in the states to have been in a major accident and fixed. We played "Find where they cut and welded." Two years ago I didn't make it at all, partly because I lost faith in the board and life. Last year I was back in full effect with our Family Rally car that had a 2 week old coat of paint. 96 4 door Impreza with a modified 2002 WRX Drive Line. For those that came and saw the car, that was the last time you will ever see that car. It ran itself into some trees at STPR about a month later. Now we are here at the begining of 2007. We've spent the past frew months build Rally Car 2.0 Same configuration as the last car, just a new shell and slightly different cage design. Mid February will be the first test for the car. If it makes it out alive I'll start trying to see if I can come out to Carlisle. Money is tight for me right now with paying for a wedding and saving up for a house, but I'm sure I can find away to fit this in. I'll give an update in about a month. Keith

I don't want to be rude, but lets keep this on topic. I did not ask how much it's worth, nor did I ask for advice on how to bid on items listed on Ebay. I'm asking how much other board members would be willing to pay for this combo of parts. I listed my opening bid as a reference. Thank you, Keith

For a complete engine from a 95 Automatic Impreza, with 95K miles on it? Includes: Complete running engine Intake Manifold w/ sensors and wiring Power Steering pump Alternator AC Compressor Engine Crossmember Power Steering Rack There is one on ebay that I'm bidding on because I need this for my 96 Legacy GT with a bad 2.5 I was the first to bid so I put in a low bid of $175, and this morning I was out bid. Fist off, I hope no one else from the board bids against me, especially since this thread could be a key to easily out bid me. Anyhow, how much would you think it's worth bidding on? Thanks, Keith

Also helpful if we know if this is an automatic or manual.

Yup, I 100% agree with Manarius. Are you using the Defrost a lot more now than you used to? When Defrost only is selected on the climate control, the AC compressor is engaged and the engine is kicked into high idle. The extra RPM from the Engine turns into more push trying to make the car move, and gets turned into load on the engine and extra vibration. Next time it's doing this try turning off the climate control completely (turn fan completely off and move the selector to something like the feet) and I bet it gets better or goes away. Keith

I love asking people what ABS is for. 19 times out of 20 they say," To help me stop faster." Can you say WRONG! ABS is to allow you to maintain control of the car. In some cases it will help you sow the car faster, but that was never it's main intent.

Are you looking to follow the WRC (World Rally Championship) or something on this continent such as Rally America, NASA, or CARS?

wouldn't surprise me. This article: http://money.cnn.com/galleries/2006/autos/0612/gallery.best.best/index.html about the new legacy being the safest car says,

I used to have a lot of problems with that on my 86 carberated Brat. What caused it was a bad seal on the end of the throttle cable, in the engine bay. In the winter, moisture would get in the cable and freeze causing the pedal to get stuck down. I replaced the entire cable assembly and it all went away. I've never heard o this issue on any Legacy or Impreza, but have heard of it frequently on Loyales and Brats. Keith

Sorry, but I think you're off. On the 4EAT transmissions that do not have the manual switch on the shifter, 2 acts like a manual mode. I keeps the car in 2nd gear no matter what. 3 on the shifter does not work this way, rather it is more of an overdrive cancel. Meaning in 3 it will use what ever gear it feels it needs, except 4th. So, in your situation what you are really doing, is pulling out in second, and when you put the shifter up into 3 it's shifting back into 1st. Sorry.... Keith

Studs do nothing in fresh snow, and in the rain are a hazard. Living where you do I highly reccomend you not get studs. They are only worth while if you are dealing with hard packed snow or ice. Around here we get a lot of snow that melts off in a few days or weeks. Studs on wet roads are like summer tires on ice. A tire like the Nokian WR can be run year round and will provide excelent snow and ice traction with minimal compramise in dry and wet traction.

We ran the piston through it's complete range of motion about 8-10 times this morning, and that seems to have fixed the problem. As for bleeding the brakes in an ABS car, what is the proper way to do it? Do we need to tell the ABS to active in any way to get fresh fluid into it? Keith

You answered your own question in a way. There is a fuse blown somewhere. Newer radios draw all their power from the constant hot wire and just use the keyed wire to tell them to turn on. This would be the same wire keeps the memory presets. This power come from the same ciruit that powers the dome lights. So find the dome light fuse and check it. I'll bet it's blown. Replace it and then re-install your new stereo and it should all be good. If the fuse blows again than something is up. Maybe a miswire on the stereo, or maybe the new stereo draws a lot of current.

I bought the car about 2 years ago with 160K on it. It needed a clutch, so at that time I did the rear main seal and the seperator plate. Then a few months later I did the timing belt and front seals. I was running plain castrol 5w30 with changes between 3-4k... That was until it hit 190k. At 190k I switched to Castrol Synthetic Blend 5w-30, and ran it to 5000 miles. At that oil change I still got all 4 quarts back out. I'm changing the oil tomorrow night (another 5k) and can't wait to see what I get out. I use the Puralator pure one filters. I plan on doing the same thing from here on out. Keith

Well, my 95 turned past 200k miles last night. Since I was on a closed section of highway at the time I chose to do it in stile. I took a picture with my cell phone, but for some reason both Razor phones I've had have an issue with showing a good image, but after saving it it turns to garbage. SO, I don't have a picture, but at 200K she is plenty capable of acheiving speeds over 100mph. Oh, did I mention that I always carry about a 50 pound sub-woofer box, and last night I was carrying 4 neon wheels and tires, a big jack, and a passanger, and it was technically a slight uphill grade when I hit the speed. Other than seals the engine is all original, and doens't use or loose any oil. Transmission needed the main bearing on the input shaft last month, but I think the gear oil was original still when I changed it at around 180k. Looking forward to another 100k! This weekend starts the upgrading of the lights! Keith

Anyone?

As far as being a weekend warrior, you don't need a cage for that. Rally-X and Auto-X don't require cages. It's only when you get into Rally Sprints or time trials that you need the cage. As for safety on the street, I can't argue that it's not safer for you the occupant, but I'm still not sure how an insurance company would look at it if you we in an accident. I've always been afraid that if I got hit, the person who hit me would or could sue claiming that their car sustained more damage because my car had a cage that didn't allow the car to deform and absorb some of the impact forces. As for our rally car we run a 6 point cage. Not unlike the pictures on the last page, just not tied into the front strut towers. That takes a lot of extra work that we don't feel is necissary. We don't push that hard that we really worry about heavy front impacts. So far are history of impacts has all been on the rear doors or rear suspension. The incident that killed the last car at STPR was mainly a B pillar impact on the door sill. It was after that the car bounced around and hit the tree dead center in the front. Keith

Ironically enough I did not type the word NOT in my previous post. This car Does NOT have factory fogs. I have another car that does, and know what you are talking about and how they mount. My dilema is simply that I can't use those holes with these new lamps without making a bracket. At this point though that looks like what I'm going to do. Bend a simple piece of Aluminum up at work and drill a few holes. I still want to know how hard it is to get the bumper cover off. The one on my other car needs a paint job. Keith

Where is? I've taken a fair bit of the rear of my car apart in the past, yet never saw anything that stuck out. So where does it belong? Keith

I took a look at the lights last night, and they are designed to mount with one large bolt to allow for aiming. That was why I wanted to take the bumped cover off so that I could mount them using the single bolt. Now I’m thinking that I have the clearance to make a small bracket that would allow me to mount using two large sheet metal screws, and still be able to swivel the lights on the main bolt for aiming. That will be my project for this weekend.

Yeah, I'm putting these in a car that did come with fogs. I know how the factory units mount, but I'm thinking the lights I bought need a better mount. Those delete panels can be easily cut out. I've had one cut out for a month or 6 now. What I can't wait for is the driving lights. I've got a bolt in bracket design in the works. I just need to get some materials and start welding.

How hard is it to remove the front bumper cover from the 2nd gen legacys? I'd like to mount some aftermarket fog lights in the stock locations, but it looks like I need the bumper cover off to do it right. Keith

Nope, not stupid. I have one in my 05 Legacy. With the Electroluminescent (or how ever they spell it) gauges it is needed. When ever the headlights are on, the dash lights are significantly dimmer. That makes it hard to see things like the clock and radio during the day. Pressing this button sends all the dash features to their brightest level, allowing me to see them, but never touch the headlight or dash dimmer switches. Keith

The acess hole is just to the left of the intake manifold on the top of the Bell Housing. It there, just hard to see if you have all the intake tubing still on the car. Keith