RallyKeith

That's exactly what we are discussing on page two.... As I've asked in my thread directly above yours here, would we all agree that his piece does indeed look like what I say it is. Keith

First Thing I'd do is get the $150 Delta Cams. Everyone says they make the motor scream. Do a search for Delta Cam on here and you should find lots of info. That combined with some form of boost controller will give you what you are looking for. Be careful not to go with too much boost. If your engine uses a hot wire MAF sensor then it will not like more than 9psi for sustained periods. The ECU has a built in fuel cut if it senses more than 9psi for some amount of time. Keith

That's a reall really good question. :-\ I believe there is a metal plate the comes off the back of the motor at the bottom of the flywheel/clutch assembly that mates up to the trans. I think there is the posibilty for something that small to get out from there. Not really sure about that though. If that was really just floating around Inside of the transmission I would think you would have more than just a whirling noise. Anybody else have any ideas? For that matter, do other people agree that the piece in the picture is a broken on of what I put the link up too? Keith

So, where in PA are you located? We get together once, twice, sometimes 3-4 times a year somewhere either in or near PA. Welcome Keith

Most of the people I know mean an internal trans bearing when they say thrust bearing, but then again I just don't know. The release bearing I'm talking about is what sits on the end of the clutch fork and presses against the clutch pressure plate. If that clip is not there the bearing will not be pulled back against the fork when you aren't using the clutch. That means the bearing could be riding against the pressure plate on that side causing it to make noise and wear unevenly. As for replacement, you don't have to take apart the transmission at all. You just have to seperate the trans from the engine to get to it. Keith

By the way, that is the clip that holds the release bearing onto the clutch fork, and a broken one at that. There is one on each side of the bearing. You can see a whole one here: http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1995&make=SU&model=LEG-4WD-002&category=All&part=Rel.+Brg.+Clip Keith

I dunno. Just sounds like a typical 20 year old carborated engine. Needs to warm up a few minutes before it will run with no choke. Also yes, the engine will stay choked and idle high until you depress the throttle some and let it reset. Keith

Well, the good thing is that I've got two "extra" normal intake manifolds to work with. The Fuel rails shouldn't be to bad, but I guess I didn't think about the vaccum lines. Hopefully That won't be too bad having a running motor to look at. Keith

This is what they are sending me. It' doesn't include the water pipe, but I think I can get that. The most important part was the intake and the injector mounts which I did not understand were seperate until I got the pictures from the JY. That was why I was looking for the pics initially. Keith

Yeah, I know. Well, it's a little upsetting. I was really following this until last year when I got a little fed up with things and kind of dropped off the face of the earth for a while. Now I'm back and ready to have some fun, especially since these guys have figured out EDIS and custom fuel management. Anyhow, the junk yard that is selling me the intake sent me pictures and I think I'm getting eveything I need to start. Not sure about some of it, but I'll find out when I get it this weekend. Keith

Does anyone have good pictures of a complete Spyder intake, Turbo or not? I can't seem to find anything. Keith

Just heard back from the place that has the manifold. They have a Throttle body, but it's from an automatic and they said it's different. What could the differences be, and what are the odds I could use it on a car with a 5spd? Keith

How about Turbo XT Spyer vs. Non-Turbo spyder Throttle body? I need to know what throttle body I could bolt right on a go for a start. No messing with wiring or adapter plates. Keith

So does that mean it's not the same as the non-spyder intakes? Also, isn't there a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) on the Throttle Body that would have to matched up? Keith

Is the throttle body itself on the XT Turbo Spyder intake the same as on the non-spyder intakes? I have a chance to get a spyder intake cheap, but it's missing the throttle body itself. What can use on it? Thanks, Keith

MY 95 does it all the time. It's normal.

Well, i nmost of those tests the Subaru is picked over the EVO because even though they both handle about the same, the engineers at Subaru did it and kept the daily driving comfort of the driver in mind. Personally, Reliabilty, Reliability, and the Reliabilty. I've been involved with rallying for 12 years and have been rallying Subarus for 5-6 years. Subarus hold up increadably well. Did I mention they are reliability. Keith

Having trouble finding some of the info that went around about some custom cross-over pipes and down pipes that people were making or selling. Throw it at me! I'm starting my own Project RX and need info. Mostly interested in the cross over. I think I'm going to wind up doing a complete custom exhaust from the turbo back with a single cat and either a flowmaster or the supertrapp I have lying around.

It should run just fine. I did it to my old Brat when that happened, and I think we did that to our old Rally car which was a 91 Legacy LS. You can gut the cat and put a straight piece in place of the muffler and it will run fine, assuming there aren't other problems with the engine. Keith

Maybe a different kinf of hidden cost, but make sure you're not buying a 2.5 that is just waiting to blow a head gasket!. You should be able to pick up a 2nd gen legacy with low miles that would fit nicely in your budget. Keith

Thanks for the input. I'm actually using heads that I bought from CCR for the final build, so I don't need to worry about the crak between the valves. I've got about three sets of heads with that crak though. Keith

From what I understand Polishing the cumbustion chamber and the top of the pistons will keep detination lower. Also, doing work on the exhaust side will only help since increasing the flow rate should decrease turbo spool time. Keith

There has been a lot of talk about performance mods for EA-82Ts here lately, including the latest work to make EDIS and Fuel Management easy. The question is, has anybody actually dyno'ed their car? I'm thinking of doing some of these things, but I'm wondering what gains have actually been measured. FWIW, there is now a 4wd dyno in Reading PA that is only minutes away from me, and I'm going to call and find out what dyno time costs. Keith

Anybody ever done a port and polish job on a set of EA-82 Heads? Anybody done it on ANYTHING that is willing to share what to do and what not to do? Advice for getting the best results? Keith

Even with the 91-94 Legacy models you have to jumper a certain connector together to get the Check engine light to flash. It's not like the older Loyales that had an LED built into the ECU that flashes. The 95 model year went to OBDII and I don't believe has that ability anymore. You should be able to stop by a local Advance auto parts or similar and have the codes pulled for free. They won't tell you what the codes mean, but simpley give you the numbers. Then you can post those numbers up here and we should be able to tell you. Keith