TomRhere

http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA81/83/Chapter15-Electrical_System.pdf page 15-40 gives a short breakdown on the stop light checker. page 15-157 gives more info on it, and has wiring diagram. There are a few connections in the rear wiring of a BRAT/Brumby, this list is what I found in a '86 that I scrapped. RHD may be on opposite side, don't know. connections behind the RH tail light, feeds over to LH side and it's connection another set of connections behind the front RH panel in the bed, one more set of connections behind the RH B pillar trim, more connections behind the RH kick panel, then the connection at the dash unit itself. The stop light checker relay is located behind the trim on the backwall of the cab. It's behind that bump right above the driveshaft tunnel. The stop light indicator will only light with brakes applied if one bulb is out/not functioning. If both bulbs are out/not functioning, the light will not light. It should light with key "on", engine "off" and while cranking engine. But that is just a test for the dash light itself.

Just so you know; There's 2 bullet connectors at the sending unit, the connections behind the RH tail light, another set of connections behind the front RH panel in the bed, one more set of connections behind the B pillar trim, more connections behind the RH kick panel, then the connection at the dash unit itself. If it is a shorted wire, you may be able to isolate what section it's in by working your way forward from the sending unit and un-plugging the harness at each point while checking the gauge. When it reads dead empty, you've isolated what section of the harness is shorted. Sounds good in theory anyways. http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA81/83/Chapter15-Electrical_System.pdf page 15-121 has wiring diagram page 15-123 has troubleshooting guide.

You may need to adjust the fuel/air mixture and/or idle speed screws. As for axle replacement, good info here.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=615158#post615158

Many thanks..... All the links I had, never worked, this one does...

http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA81/83/Chapter04-Fuel_System.pdf If you read thru that section of the FSM, it may help you find the cause of the tank not venting. I would suspect the 2-way valve. It's located near the fuel pump and is connected between the tank and that loop of line mounted on the backwall of the cab on BRATs. In the meantime, I would leave the gas cap loose. Enough pressure can build up to rupture the tank. That would not be a good thing... http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA81/83/ Link to the entire FSM. Section 5 has to do with emission systems and includes more on tank venting.

You didn't mention doing so,,, so I have to ask. Have you tried new bulbs?

Besides the otherwise unexplainable loss of tranny fluid, you may notice your eyes having a burning sensation if you are downwind of the exhaust. Shift points of the tranny are at, (or pretty near), the same speed(s), regardless of throttle input, IE: 1st-2nd @ 25, 2nd-3rd @ XX whether your accelerating easily or harshly. The vacuum modulator works with the govenor to set shift points of the tranny. It basically "reads" throttle input via vacuum. Atleast that's how it was explained to me years back.

Welcome to the Board.... The HTKYSA book Edrach mentioned is a real good source of info. I have a CD version of it, and use it if I can't find info elsewhere. Another source of info for you, http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA81/83/

Been a few years ago. but I moved one simular to the pic around the yard with my '82 BRAT. Little difficult seeing around it to back up.

The FPCU has a 6 pole connector, some units are Black, some are Blue. This may help; http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA81/83/

Easy check on the vacuum modulator is to pull the vacuum line off it. If any ATF drips out of either the vac line or the modulator, the unit is toast. As Gary said, check the level for the front diff. The seal between trans and diff can go bad. ATF can bleed over into the front diff.

I've used uni-strut for years and never thought of that use... I have an extra long tire iron for that purpose. Rest the socket end on the floor/ground and slip the other end between two lugs. Thinking I may have a length of uni-strut out in the garage. If not, I know I can get some from work.....

3 of the 5 BRATs I've owned have had issues with the connections for the sending unit. Check those first, before buying a sending unit. Can't give the wire color right now for either, but one is for the gauge, other for the low fuel light.

You may need to install one of those $20.00 Fuel Pressure Regulators in the supply line to the carb. Some of us running Webers have had to so. With a warmed engine, at idle speed, listen to the carb. Do you hear an occasional "snap" sound? Ifso, install the FPR. Don't know the reason for it, but some fuel pumps put out more pressure than the Weber likes. I'm running one on my '86 BRAT with EA-82 carb intake on an older solid lifter motor of unknown mileage, timing set at 10*. Last milleage check was 316.xx miles driven and 11 gallons to refill tank, roughly 28.5 MPG. I drive on mostly back country roads with a top speed of 55 MPH, roughly 64 miles round trip for work everyday. I have hit high 30's for MPG a couple times, but usually in the 28-29 area. Last winter I was down to 26-27 with all the warm-up/defrost windows time.

PM sent

Correct.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98796 The 1st pic in that thread shows the innards of a tranny. Shifter rails are at the bottom, shifter forks can be found if you follow the rails thru the tranny. And yes, the tranny would need to be opened if repairs are needed for the shifter forks.

3-----4 1-----2 radiator disty --1-- 3---4 --2-- Pull #1 plug, Have your finger over the sparkplug hole and crank engine over by hand using socket on crank pulley bolt. When you feel the air passing by your finger, you'll be on the compression stroke for #1. Keep turning the crank until you line up the timing mark with the degree that your engine is to be timed at. The rotor should be pointing at the #1 plug tower on the disty cap. If it's not lined up, you'll need to pull the disty up some and spin the rotor to it's correct position. Note that the rotor will turn some as you pull it out, so you need to allow for that movement when you drop it back in. Insure that the plug wires are on the cap in the correct order, and that they go to the correct plugs. Re-install the plug for #1. It should run now. Check disty timing with timing light.

I'd pull the door panels off and clean out the doors. Nice find otherwise.....

Main fuel filter is under the car by the fuel pump. The one under the hood is a vapor seperator, and it will get some air space in it if the engiine isn't running. Change the filter at the back, see if that helps. It cured the '85 BRATs jerkyness. It's symptons were like yours. Idle good, drove down the road good unless I wound it out to long going thru the gears, then it woould start the herky-jerky stuff. Changed the rear filter and it was good to go.

The conical washer should have a nice rounded edge to the outer end of it. If it shows any sign of wear, it needs replaced. You may also need to swap out the rear drum as it will wear along with the washer.

Nice find!!! Let's see some more pics...

Sorry I had you replace the alt for no apparent reason now. But as was said, "dash lights "on" with engine running = failing alt". A failing alt can cause all kinds of "wierdness" in the automotive electrical system. But now it seems that all of your issues "are" related. One would need the wiring layout for your year of vehicle to do alot of this, but it can be done without one. For whatever reason, you are loosing some of the "key on" part of the electrical system. It appears from re-reading all of this, that the coil is still getting power, but the rest of the system is losing it, (dashlights "on", fuel pump shutting "off"). When this happens, the engine will continue to run, until the gas in the float bowl is gone, then the engine dies. The feathering of the gas pedal is keeping the engine running by using the accelerator pumps supply of gas. Only thing I can suggest right now is to check all of the wiring harness connectors for proper connections and/or loose fitting wires. Pay attention to those added switches, as the connections there could be the trouble spot. Be sure to check how they are wired into the cars wiring harness also. edit; It could be the added switches aren't of high enough amp rating. The contacts in them are getting "hot" and breaking the connection.

V-belt is tensioned via the altenator. 12mm wrench or socket for the bolts. There's a 5/8" hose off the waterpump that is one of the heater core supply lines, (it runs under the altenator). It can be a pain to get off of the pump after all this time. Best bet is to get a Gates 28466 hose, it's a "trim to fit" replacement. A couple of hose clamps for it too. You have to remove the altenator to replace the hose, if needed.

The "dash lights ON, and engine running" thing may be random, yes. BUT,,,, it is telling you that your altenator is failing, or atleast the diodes in the alt are failing. edit; that was wierd.. Got knocked "off-line" before I finished typing and hitting the post button. Get back "on-line" 1st line of post is here. ?????? To continue: The fact that the charge light isn't coming "on" has nothing to do with failing diodes in the alt. The alt may very well be putting out enough DC voltage to keep the light "off". The failing diodes allow AC voltage into the electrical system, this is what's making the other dash lights come "on". The random "engine dies/don't start" could be related to a loose connection in the wiring harness, or failing ignition switch (ie; worn contacts). Swap out your alt, then we can help you track down the other issue(s).