Petersubaru

..if you google this problem you will see that thousands of people have this same problem..I suppose that the regulators are somewhat tired and can go on like this for a very long time..I say this because almost every rebuilt alternator still has the original regulator that came with it when first new..both my original loyale and now my '01 subi pulsate ..even the replaced rebuilt upgraded nissan 100 amp does it and I have had to run the fuel pump directly from the battery by relay from the ecu to avoid hearing the fuel pump fluctuate..next time it will be a completely new alt for me that will have a new regulator installed..

..they share technical info..these are not the same as what came originally in the loyale..original bearings where open in design, so you will have to add your own grease..also these bearings ..4 of them are more then adequate..the same bearings are used on my 5500 lb vanagon syncro ..

..here are the facts..it really does not matter where the bearings are made..you want bearings that come from "Certified Plants"..manufacturing facilities that adhere to the same exacting standards through out the world...NtN of SKF are such companies ..so if for example a bearing made in Korea would be identical to one made in the US..this cannot be said about some German companies such as F.A.G., which have both types of manuf qualities ..certified and subpar..

..I have been running my loyale on these bearing for many miles now..can't go wrong with NTN or SKF..both companies work very closely with each other..

..I would assume that you have never driven on snow packed roads or perhaps even icy mountain roads without a PV..then you would know the meaning of your "a*s end" coming around to the front heading in a direction you wished you were not going..I know they stop better, much better,..but there is a reason they added the PV..some countries like mine didn't mandate them while others for ex. England had them on the cars..

..generally speaking, FI coils are different from the carb coils ..it will work in the beginning, but over time most likely will prematurely burn out the ignitor within the disy..ignition parts are designed as a system and are meant to work together as such..

I am not saying with any certainty, but I suspect the little electrical plunger attached to the idle control receives a varied amount of voltage form the ecu to determine the plunger opening thus the idle speed..but if your plunger is worn out / dirty or both you will have problems..I say the above because I have applied my volt meter to the idle control and observed under 12v at the control and at other times full battery voltage..it's been a while, and can't remember..the ecu could be providing the ground rather then supplying power..I also drive a vanagon with same style idle control, but information is fed to the idle control thru a separate module/computer...this is my best guess

..most likely I will buy and remove the heads to replace the gasket need it or not..generally speaking, just to good of a motor to let go bye..

.. have done the same thing with some of the older engines I have installed..but they seem to all at that time use to much oil in my opinion..for the last 11 yrs I have been also driving a vw diesel that sat for near 9yrs, low miles, but uses oil..the former owner said it never used any oil and interesting enough the yrs that I have used it has never increased in oil consumption..600mi per qt..steady even consumption since I got it and will still start in the coldest mornings...

..I did not want to touch it until I have heard from others..I will remove the plugs when I get there..if it does not turn easily..I will walk away...

thanks guys

I have an opportunity to purchase a 1996 2.2 engine with about 42k/mi for a conversion... it has not been sitting completely outside venerable to the elements, but stored in an open air garage..the internals of the engine have never been turned over for 10+ yrs, not even by hand..I live in a high moist part of the country and my question is...would a rust ring develop in the cylinder / ring area ??..I wouldn't want to buy the unit if it is going to use excessive amounts of oil..

...unrelated to the idle problem...perhaps your 02 sensor needs changing...

..my experience was also as you described...only in the cold and then progressively over time getting worse ...no matter how warm it is..maybe the plunger in the main body part is dirty or the 12volt plunger needs to be cleaned..remove both parts..clean and see what happens..its kinda of hit and miss..lucky for me I had a spare part..not perfect but at 90% I am happy...

sounds similar to what I was experiencing at one time , but not so extreme with the high rpm's..I exchanged my idle control unit and it fixed the problem..cleaning the unit may help, but I doubt it...with car Not running..the way I checked my unit...was to remove the large rubber hose attached to it and proceed to blow as hard as you can..( I removed the unit from the throttle body)..if you detect any air escaping..this would explain your problem or at least in part..also this part is expensive to replace as a new item..

I doubt if the turbo is gone with only 65K..and proper diagnoses by an experienced person is needed here..

take them to a machine shop and have them clean it up for you..I hope you have experience putting these on..

..GD ..could you tell me where to get those shim rings that you described above..

...maybe these lifters have a ridge and are stuck in there, or are your lifters covered in a brown oily sludge that can act like glue..dribble a little gas over them....

..ignitor ?? /

..just a followup..there was some restriction in the return hose and now fixed..fuel pump static test and residual are at 24 and 22psi...time will tell about the condition of the "check valve" since it could take hours for it to bleed down...so far so good..

even if my car starts at the moment with no problem..still could have something to do with the fuel pump check valve..I don't think it should drop from 27psi to 19-20 psi as soon as it is turned off ..perhaps at other times it still drops even lower ...

... Thankyou..the starting problem was probably related more to the idle air control circuit..I did find that it did not seal well when closed and was full of carbon... also the spring inside was difficult to move..starting good now..with the the fuel pump I will leave as it is for now..it runs smooth with no lag and the plugs are clean...

Lately every once in a while it will take 3 starts to get the car started, hot or cold..last year the fuel pressure regulator was at 21psi and now it is at 27psi.. (when testing my spare regulator it to comes up at 27psi)..when turning off the motor the pressure needle drops immediately to 20psi and will stay there pegged...is this normal or are both my regulators worn out...also forgot to mention that I am useing a loyale turbo fuel pump for my spfi conversion..

re-check the torque on the center hub nut..I think 135-140...if not tight enough, there will be some movement thus possible shudder...