Spiffy

silly me, I thought it would be a hell of a lot easier to just ask somebody that already knew in a forum of knowledgable people... seems a hell of a lot easier than hunting down a physical copy of the manual... and can I get one for free?

yeah, that would be incredibly handy if the unit was listed in there...

I've got a Clarion RDB245D in a '98 Impreza. Is this a stock unit? I can't find a manual for this thing anywhere. I can't even find a place to email Clarion Support to ask them about it. Not that it's all that complex. But I can't figure out how to set the time. If it wasn't for all the replacement parts available for the unit I would think it never existed. Seems like some rare OEM version or something. Can anybody shed some light on this for me? Thanks!

detachable face...

I just found out that my car has the same key as my girlfriend's '98 impreza, so I guess I'll try and keep my locks the same and find a matching ignition... ... flowmastered, I'd be interested in picking up your lock set if it's easy to access... or at least trying my key in your ignition to see if it matches my doors... in addition to wanting the ignition to match I also wouldn't mind the driver's door lock being a bit easier to work... xoomer, seattle is a bit far to go for a locksmith, but I may shop around down here for a cheap place that can do an ignition for me... thanks! ...

classic problem, the drapes don't match the curtains... no wait... the locks don't match the ignition... that's it... one key for all the door locks... one key for the ignition... should I have the ignition re-keyed by a locksmith? or is that too expensive? anybody do this before? what are the odds of me finding an ignition at a junkyard with the same key as my locks? and what is the going rate for an ignition switch? I haven't even looked in my Chilton's to see how tough it is to replace... what's the going rate for a full set of used locks/ignition with key from somebody here on the board? do the power locks make a difference or are they the same as manual locks? I'm tired of dealing with 2 keys all the time... so what's my best option here? thanks!

I got the new axle in there and everything seems normal again... took me about 1.5 hours to install it... (7:30-9:00) hope I don't forget how I did it before next time...

so I took the 23-spline axle back to CarQuest... turns out it was in the right box, but it was the wrong part... they didn't have another one and would have to order it... no good, I need it tonight... went to Napa... they'd have to order it... went to Schucks... they'd have to order it... went to AutoZone... they'd have to order it... went to Mike's Auto Parts... they'd have to order it... so I ordered it... seriously, WTF?! this is one of the most popular cars in the area and they don't stock an axle at any major chain in the metro area?! ridiculous... next time I'll make sure it's the right one before it's Sunday evening and the car is disassembled up on jackstands and I have to be at work at 7am...

that's how I did it earlier today... and will do again tomorrow... (: ... my big 12"... crescent! (and my pickle fork helped too)

ok, so I got the axle into the knuckle with some good prying... then I found out that it was a 23-spline axle! argh! I really should check these things before I put them in... I was thinking "this thing really should slide onto the tranny easier"... so another bike ride to work tomorrow morning and try to talk the new roommate into picking me up after work and driving me to carquest...

that would be cool! I'm going to see if the hardware store is open on my way home and get some washers... if not then you may see me this evening... or I might just try spacing and prying with a large wrench... (: I'm headin' to work right now (via bike), so won't be able to get back to this until around 4:00 this evening...

compression braking saves traffic... the first thing people do when they see brake lights is to hit the brakes... bam! traffic! so if you're just slowing down a bit use the gears and don't freak out the n00bs and contribute to traffic... also, if you're going down a long hill you'll want to use compression braking to avoid heating up the brakes and not having them when you need them for the sharp curve at thew bottom...

I thought of that, but I didn't want to get sawdust in the grease... (already got a bit in there I had to pick out when I was pounding out the old axle.)

ok, so I'm replacing the cv axle half (front right of course) and I'm pulling the new axle into the knuckle with the crown nut and washers... but I ran out of threads... now how did I get past that last time? doesn't seem healthy to pound on the other end of the cv axle shaft... prying would damage the outside rubber seal on the knuckle... do I really need to get an inch's worth of washers to pull it through with?

I replaced the alternator and that fixed everything... it was the first time one had gone completely out like that on me... other ones have just had voltage problems, not a total failure... the new connector seems really secure and is all shrink-wrapped up nice and tight... but I could use another rubber boot to put over it...

the battery is only 3 months old... I bought it after the first replacement alternator died, cuz I didn't want to stress the newer new alternator too much... I'm thinking it's the alternator as well... maybe I'll take it to a different location this time so the guy behind the counter doesn't give me too much crap... (: for all this hassle I should have bought a new one from subaru... (but those are probably expensive) I still need to check the hidden ends of all the heavy wires... there's not really any corrosion at the battery terminals, just a bit of the usual road grime...

I'll check those ground connections when I get home... but I would think that if those were bad then I'd have trouble starting the car because it couldn't ground the starter reliably, but it starts just fine, just doesn't charge... but since so many unrelated warning lights came on it seems like a widespread type of problem... *shrug* of course maybe the alternator is the cause of the problem, but I won't be able to return/exchange it until a normal workday...

ok, so I replaced the connector and that didn't make a difference at all... ): next?

so I replaced my alternator on like tue/wed because it suddenly blew the regulator and was overcharging... picked up an exchange from carquest... this is the 3rd alternator I've had this year... I replaced the original because it wasn't handling a load very well (lights, windows, stereo, signals)... then that one stopped charging very well and would only charge at idle with no load... then the last one that was overcharging... so now the charge, brake fluid, stop lamp, and parking brake lights are all lit up, and I'm reading under 12v on the gauge... also when I accelerate it jerks harshly like it's cutting out and dying, but real quick spurts... it stopped doing it for a day, then started, then stopped for a few hours, and now I've been driving it for a day and half and the warning lights won't go back and it doesn't look like it's charging... I'm about to try replacing the round connector on the alternator because when I was putting this one in I noticed that the connector and the wire were very carbonized and there was a lot of discoloration deep down in the stranded wires... the plug connector seems to be in good shape, since it's covered in that anti-corrosive grease that comes on the alternator... although I guess I'm not totally sure that the connectors are getting a good grip on the spades on the alternator... *shrug* I've already checked the charge fuse and fusable links and they're all good... do you think the alternator could have gone out again? or do you think it's just a bad connector problem? could that bad connector be causing my electrical system to eat alternators? I wire-brush it every time I take it off... can I test the voltage off the alternator right at the round post to see if it's running 14-16 volts? that'd tell me if it was the alternator or the connector I suppose... troubleshooting advice? thanks!

awesome, thanks all! I already picked up the OEM subie oil filter... think I'll go with Mobile1 synthetic for my oils... engine 10w30, and gearboxes 75w90... now to check my haynes to see how much I need... (:

I would just get a new switch... sounds like one of the solder connections is cracked... you could try resoldering every connection if you've got time and energy... if you get a new junkyard switch be sure to take it apart and clean the contacts before you install it...

I know this has been discussed to death, but I'm too lazy to search all the threads for it... (: I'm going to change all my oils on my car... having had it a few months and worked out most of the immediate needs it's time for new fluids... I was thinking I would go with synthetic oil... probably castrol... what's a good weight? 5/30? how about a filter? I was probably going to just get the best one they had at CarQuest, or pick up an OEM Subaru one from the dealer (if you all think they're better)... also, I've heard from the board that Redline makes great fluid for the tranny and diff... should I go with that? and where can I get it locally? any special weights I should use for those? keep in mind that I drive the car pretty hard... quick starts off the line... rarely upshift below 4k... etc... so I'm looking for your recommendations on: motor oil filter brand: synthetic motor oil brand: synthetic motor oil weight: tranny oil brand: tranny oil weight: diff oil brand: diff oil weight: thanks!

ha ha! very funny... the defrost control isn't behind the stash/radio area... it's behind the glove box... but at least now my center console is pretty clean... I've found the source of the defrost problem... it's the vacuum unit (03H25) that pulls the lever for the defrost box... there's a leak in there and it's not holding the lever open and the spring is pulling it closed... it's a *************** to get out... there's a screw on the back of it for some reason... seems like the 2 screws on the front would be enough... I don't think I'll be putting that rear screw back in...

wow, surprising that nobody has replaced that unit before... I'll be at a junkyard this evening to grab a master power window switch so I'll tear a car apart and check out that unit... it's possible that the leak is in the line that runs down to the unit and not in the unit itself... if it's easy enough I'll just grab that part at the yard just in case...

ok, so I've narrowed it down to the single vacuum line that runs down the left from the vent controls, hangs a right behind the stereo towards the glove box, and then goes down behind the stash/ash tray area... it's not holding air like the other 2 lines that come from the vent control... so the vacuum is leaking from there and causing the defrost to slip back to default front vent... so... what am I getting into in order to replace that? is it something that can be repaired? will I have to take much apart? anybody have pictures? just trying to get an idea as I'm about to eat some food and the start tearing the console apart... thanks!