Legacy777

the ones in the picture were the ones I was referring to as being custom made.

there's some for the second gen legacies, but I haven't seen any for the first gen......I've only seen one, and it was a complete custom jobber.

so are you saying the power light does not illuminate? Other then a select monitor, there's no other way to check the TCU codes except with the power button procedure. There's not going to be a fuse for just the power light. If it's not working and the rest of the bulbs on your dash are, the bulb is probably burnt out, in which case you'd need to pull the combination meter out to replace the bulbs.

You can pickup a new coil for like 60 bucks. On your diagnosis, with the design of the coil pack, there is no way for one side of coil to go bad. There are two coils in there. The front coil handles the front two cylinders and the rear coil handles the rear two cylinders. If the coil went out, both front or rear cylinders would not work, or not work properly. The only way I could see one side going bad was if there was a massive crack or something causing a disproportionate flow in current. If that was the case, I would think it would show up by measuring the resistance. Just to verify the resistance values, For testing the primary side, you meased from terminal No 2 on the connector of the coil pack to the Number 1 & 3 spots on the coil itself and got around 0.7 ohms. The next test that the fsm gives is confusing, but the readings should be done solely on the coil pack female connectors. 1 & 2, and 3 & 4 according to the diagram. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/coilpacktest.jpg If anything is out of spec, replace the coil pack.

Please refrain from posting in all caps. It gives the impression you're yelling.....which maybe you want to be after the problems....but in the future please don't post in all caps.

Hey Gilles...it's alright.....yes I have been a little tired lately....I'll be ok :-) The wheels are made by racing gear, model is M7. I have no idea if they are still even in business. I've never personally seen these wheels on another vehicle, ever. I've seen them on a prelude on the net, and I've only seen wheels by this manufacturer one time, and that was at a speed shop in seattle area. I got them back in 97, so they are pretty old....

Here's the thread in question....at least that I did http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?p=5821#5821

You'll probably get more hits on the old gen side.

thanks for the compliments guys :-)

I'd probably say just stick with dino oil

how many miles are on the engine?

I know this is for the BC legacy, but most of the stuff will probably hold true for yours as well. http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=640

Under the rear seat there is a connector for the fuel pump, it's on the passenger side under a little foam protector. Disconnect that, start/turn over the engine to relieve fuel pressure. Then do the work on the fuel filter.

trailer huh......

I know I haven't posted much lately.....life's been rather crazy....job, etc, etc. I've been just trying to keep the car running and fix the little issues. I finally got around to waxing it and getting it fully cleaned up after a year here's some pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/legacyzymol/

check for a crack on the pasenger side plastic end cap. The crack would be facing the front of the car.

without checking my books for the decode key, as far as I know all the normally aspirated MT 90-94 legacies had 4.111 gearing. I'll see if I can find the decoding for the trans.

I would tend to agree about the reddish plugs and it being a certain type of fuel or additive. The timing, you really can't adjust the timing, the computer sets it based on varioius sensors, including crank & cam. knock sensor, if it's never been replaced it's probably the old style which are known to crack and become oversensitive. There is a new style out that is supposed to alleviate these problems.

What's special about the wagon bars?

For your car, Disconnect the battery for 1 hour, reconnect, start car, make sure accessories are off, let it idle for one full warm up cylce, shut off car, and then go drive. I've done it without the warm up cylce, and it seems fine with it....so I'll leave that option up to you.

pretty much any of the strut tower bars for the gc impreza should work on the bc/bf legacies.

yes they'll work, you can figure out your new tire size with this http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

just curious, have you reset the ECU recently? You may want to try that....you may be experiencing subaru's famed hesitation. If you reset the ECU and it gets better, then that would probably tell you if it's a hesitation issue or some other mechanical issue independant of the ECU maps.

the autos do have low end grunt.....I'd suspect some sort of problem... but to answer your question, read this on the tranny swap http://www.legacycentral.org/library/transmission/convert.htm you didn't mention what year/model legacy you have, but without knowing too much about your legacy, I'd say there's 99.9% chance the WRX tranny will not have the same final drive ratio as your legacy. So....you would need a new rear diff as well. Other solution would be to find a tranny that has the same gearing so you don't have to swap rear diffs.

as mentioned.....dump out all the gas you can, and throw it out. If you want to let it sit for a little bit for more of the gas to evaporate, that's fine.