Legacy777

don't waste your time thinking of the twin turbo swap. It will not fit in the LHD cars, without major shoe horning. Best bet, go get a used USD WRX motor and swap it in. That's going to be the easiest and probably cheapest route. May also want to check out http://www.nasioc.com if you haven't already. Also, just to note, those engine designations are incorrect. It's just EJ20T & EJ20TT. There are different varients of the EJ20 blocks, which get letters on occasion, eg EJ20G. But there isn't any DET or DETT, those are nissan motor designations that have some how found there way to subaru motors through misinformation on the internet.

ngk coppers & magencor. Don't expect to see any real improvements in power with just plugs and wires. Car may run a little smoother.....but like I said, don't expect to see 5 hp.

again....just sign up for 3 days and suck everything down.

You can drive the car with the stud missing. I wouldn't drive too far or too agressive though. and yes, if you do replace the strut on the one....might as well do all the rest.

car? year? may want to read this http://www.geocities.com/hobiegary/locks.html

It "probably" will be ok, but you should replace it. You'll need a new top mount.....either just to swap it out, or to have a machine shop pull the bolt in the new one, to put in the old one.... The spec only says to torque to 14 ft/lbs......or that's what everyone says. You don't need to tighten them super tight.

yeah they do, do a sniffer test.....I just implied that........my bad

nope, it's normal thread

Do all the emission stations have AWD dynos now? Should've figured WA would do this What do you mean by What type of mods....computer isn't really going to know, only if you have taken the cat out, or have a MIL

AWD vehicles are pretty much exempt from dyno runs in all the states I know of. All the new OBD2 cars don't need dyno runs, they just plug the computer in, and check from there. Carl, you won't need a dyno run, guys down here in Houston with the WRX's just have the OBD2 scanned.

I'd say unless the crank was rounded out by the pulley because it wasn't torqued down enough......the crank should be fine. I don't know how they can tell any of the stuff they've said without pulling that pulley off. At most I'd suggest replacing the oil pump, timing belt & tensioner.....and if you haven't been in there to replace the crank & cam seals, do that too.

Liberty subaru http://www.newsubaru.com

both have their merits. I've got both, as well as the FSM's. If you have the money and plan to keep the car/work on it yourself, they're worth the money IMO.

I have never had a motor vac, but it's just the name of an engine cleaning system. I think marc or someone else on the board had it done on their legacy and it helped get the carbon out and get rid of the hesitation. On the new subarus I'm not sure if you can pull just a specific fuse to get rid of power to the ECU.

take a look at this thread http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2447&highlight=crazy+battery+start

It sounds like you're getting AWD binding. It can be caused by a couple of things. First thing I would do is check all your tire pressures, check to see you have the same brand tires on each wheel, and they are wearing evenly. Next I'd check the tranny fluid, see what its condition is. It should be red/pink and should not smell burnt. If the tranny has not had regular maintenance, then it may be too late to save it. You can try putting a fuse in the FWD fuse holder to disable the AWD and probably eliminate the binding you are getting.

misfire could be plugs, wires, injectors, coil (probably not so much coil), or just carbon or gunk build up. Unfortunately without digging into things some more it's a little hard to tell.

this what you're looking for http://usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29b58f4430b8.49200047/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f2c055f4862e9.39782181.art http://usmb.net/repair/

hmm....maybe it needs a wire. Anyone have a 90-94 legacy with MT that can look on that connector to see if they have a wire in that spot?

sounds like a pretty cheap fix in the big scheme of things.

should probably be around 140. I'd definitely say the 110 cylinder is low.

Here's the diag procedure.....might help http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag3.jpg

price is good......but the newly redesigned legacy will be out very shortly, (year or so) That's what I would like....but if the power, added features aren't that important, I'd probably try to take advantage of the good deal.

Lorry, Try to keep all replies in one thread so others can read the background info too.

I said in another post you need to snip the mt/at identifier wire, did you do this? Connector B48, pin 20 http://main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page1.jpg http://main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page2.jpg On the first page you can see the connectors, on page 2 near the top is shows the MT/AT identifier pin.