heartless

I do hope you are putting it in Park before actually shutting it off?

Cheater! lol

this is on the rear passenger door? You should be able to get it in the slot by angling it - the mechanism will need to be down about halfway to start - drop in one corner at an angle (you may need to experiment a little here to determine which corner to put in first), lower it down at the angle to get the other end in - then straighten it out to get it installed on the mechanism. I have not had to replace a door window on a Subaru, but have done it on a 95 Dodge Ram - twice. and that has frame around the window - talk about a chore!

I dont know who you are going to for these estimates, but there is ZERO reason to replace all 4 wheel bearings. None, nada, zilch. And whomever told you that you needed to is only out to take your money. Replace only the one that is bad, and if you have a shop do it, it should be less than $300 for the whole works - parts and labor.

Take a look at the Mastercraft Avenger - very good all season tire that is quite capable. I have had a set on my 95 Legacy for almost 3 years now - great wearing tire. I have done a little light "off-roading" with them and they were fine. Mastercraft is made by Cooper tires - without the Cooper price.

I had a set of Kelly Explorers on my 90 Legacy - they were a pretty good tire at a decent price - slightly softer compound which is great for winter driving - grippier. but they do wear out a little faster.

the paint used on that set was a dark grey "hammered" finish, not black - but I think I may try the lighter grey on this set... and I did tape off the lip of the wheel to leave natural (where tire and wheel meet) it is kind of hard to see in that picture, but it is there. no point in painting an area that is going to get scratched up by tools when mounting the tires.

take a look at Mastercraft tires - Made by Cooper without the Cooper price. I had the Avenger Touring put on the Legacy (on those dark wheels) and they have performed great. Excellent wear, quiet, very good traction - even in the winter. I had bought a set of snows to fit the stock 14" steel wheels when I first got the car (it was winter already by the time we got it road worthy) and they were only used that first winter. Spring came, got the Avengers put on the 15" wheels, and never took them off the car again - two and a half years later they still have a lot of life in them - barely worn at all. I did notice when I swapped them onto my Forester recently that the one rear had a little more wear on the inner edge than the others - but that is not the tire's fault - that is an issue with the car itself... worn suspension bushings most likely (they are pretty bad).

LOL, thanks guys. The dark kind of grows on you after a bit, and I do like that it kind of matches the lower body panels. It also seems to hide a lot of sins (scuffs, scratches, etc). From a distance, the silver looks ok, but up close, they really are pretty ugly. the current dark wheels are the ones I had on my lifted Legacy that has been demoted to back-up car instead of daily driver. The tires the Foz had on it were a iffy - fronts extremely worn (plus one with a nasty leak - had to air it up every couple of days) - rears not nearly as worn (never been rotated?), so i stuffed the snows on the Legacy (on stock 14" steelies) and put the 15's on the Foz until I can get some new tires for it next month.

Which do you like better on this car? trying to decide what to do with the wheels before getting new tires mounted. The clear coat is in bad shape, and the wheels are looking pretty ugly in their stock form... need to do something with them. The big question is light, or dark?

yeah, if you drive in snow, stick with the 195 size. I put Forester wheels (15") with slightly larger than stock (diameter) tires on my 95 Legacy, but it also has Forester struts & springs, giving a bit more clearance the spot to look at for clearance will be the lower spring perch on the struts - how much space do you have there? that will dictate how much more tire you can fit without rubbing.

i guess it kind of depends on your definition of the "life" of the vehicle - and where you live... this is one of the rear rotors I pulled off of my 95 Legacy when I got it...

yuck. there is a "long life" coolant that is yellow, but yeah, looks like you have something else in there.

Wow, I guess I got lucky - ordered the Gates kit for the 02 Forester not too long ago. All of the pulleys had the NSK / Japan on the bearings and a gates belt...

These questions would be better posted in the Transplants section: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forum/17-subaru-transplants/

spent some time over the weekend fixing up the rear hatch of the new to me 2002 Forester - this was the rustiest spot on the car... Will give the paint a couple of weeks to cure up good, then wet sand and polish it up. The letters will not be going back on as they were in terrible shape - the chrome plating is peeling and nasty looking. I also had to free up the rear wiper the week before - it was seized up and wouldn't work at all... works great now, tho. anyone know how best to get the washer nozzle off (above the glass)? it has some serious rust bubbles around it, too.

any spare fuse will work for that, amperage doesnt matter

checking fluids on a regular basis, and adding if needed is a basic part of car ownership. As is checking tire pressures and wear.

personally, I would not do it. the curb weight alone is more than the rated capacity of the vehicle, add cargo to that, and you would be way over.

O2 sensor has been replaced and that code has been cleared - and it is just one front sensor on the 2002 - in the front of the cat convertor - 5 wire connector... still have not dealt with the evap issues - hoping to get to those this coming weekend... we have gone from 7 codes (both hard set and pending) to just 3 now. yay!

I am curious as to why only 1 tire is failing inspection? there has to be a reason for that.... they should all be pretty close in wear if everything is up to snuff - having one bad and the rest ok says there is an issue somewhere that needs to be addressed...

might also check all the heat shields underneath - providing you can do so safely. they are a known source of rattles... just a suggestion.

take a look at Rockauto.com - their prices are pretty hard to beat.

Um, yeah... I wouldnt trust anything that shop did from the list posted... Get a FULL timing kit with pulleys, water pump, tensioner, seals - everything. Get it installed properly and have peace of mind that it was done right. I also do full timing jobs on any "new to us" Subaru's that have the belts (the H6 the other half drives has chain, no maintenance to speak of) just for the peace of mind it brings. Records or not, there is no guarantee that the job was done right - or at all for that matter...

tensioner, and the belt - not a good sign at all. I am going to bet the threads for the tensioner mounting bolt are damaged/stripped... time for a new bracket, just like I had to do with my 02 Forester.. https://www.amazon.com/OEM-Subaru-tensioner-Bracket-13156AA052/dp/B00F57PVFW (edit - you will want 2 longer bolts for the upper mount for that bracket - they made the mounting ears thicker - i believe they are M10 - need 60mm long, 1.25 thread pitch) as well as a new tensioner... in fact, I would go so far as to get a whole new timing kit - pulleys, tensioner, waterpump, etc - and be done with it for a while