hatchsub

I wanna say a pair of 14mm wrenches should do the trick. Could be 16mm or 12mm though. Been awhile.

I didnt realize that subarus came with afterburners

My subaru has a nasty habit of starting/dying, starting/dying, starting/dying then on the fourth or fifth time actually stay running. I need to adjust my choke on the weber. Other than that it runs fine. I double clutch 2nd and third until its warm otherwise they like to grind. Syncros are too cold to keep up.

Not sure how much of the thread you read or know what engine he is refering to but its the dual carb EA81 (105hp). Pretty sure an EA82 is the last thing on his mind

Only 3ATs ive owned have been 2wd. They were both garbage with the lower milage of the two being worse. Would hold gears until redline then bang into the next gear. Rather than go through the trouble of fixing it i donated it to the local highschool to rip apart and dropped a 5 speed in instead. Havent looked back. As far as 4wd 3AT i cant imagine them being better..in fact they are probably worse since there is more to go wrong.

wow briggs it sitting in your closet when it could be sitting under my hood lol :-p Good luck getting it all back together and in the brat. If i do come out that way im hoping for i ride at the least.. spot behind the wheel flogging it at the most

Briggs i dont either lol. Even though its been wicked cold out my throttle still hasnt bound up like it did last year so i havent had a reason to put your cable guide on. Probably just screwed myself by saying that and now its going to bind lol. I still got it though and am probably going to put it on one of these days when i get a chance.

No such thing as a stupid question..unless its one not asked.

Just dont go through any very large puddles fast

And you would be right. A friend of mine had a VLSD in his Merkur and he would do a burnout the right tire would start spinning, and then a few seconds later the left would start as well. Clutch types are more instantaneous. He blew his diff though so now hes got an Eaton posi in it.

Thats why there was a ? mark. Not sure if i was right or not. Just what i thought might be right.

oooww i need to get me some poly bushings.

Also something to note is if it is a clutch type wont the friction material wear off and get mixed into the gear oil making everything wear out quicker? Maybe im way off on my thinking cause i have though the same thing about getting a LSD for my EA81. I think ill just stick with the one wheel peels in the rain and snow though.

I will let you know shortly. They are stiffer springs and slightly lower (if you use the EA81T springs with 2wd struts you will lower your car). The sway bar is slightly thicker. All in all it should stiffen up the handling in front. I will report back once i actually bolt it all together.

Even if the PO did that mod there should still be the diaphram on that as well as the cover because you have a vacuum leak without it. There is a pinhole vacuum point on the outer edge of that bowl (at least there was on my former hitachi. As for finding out if the mod was done, with the car off look down the carb and manually open up the throttle. If both barrels open up the mod was done. If not, get a cover and a new diaphram and go to work.

Ok thanks Mark.

u can fuel inject an EA81 with ease. Probably a bit more reliable than a EJ22 cause no timing belts. But if you want power yea EA81 would cost way more than its worth. Reliability is what the EA81 is known for not power.

If its the thermo switch i got one sitting on my desk. Its known good. Yours if you need it. It sounds like that to me. Its 26 years old. Then again the one i have is too...but has less miles on it.

bump

Has anyone put a caliper or have measurements in a book for what this is supposed to be? Reason i ask is im going to to get poly bushings if i can for this bar so that when it gets here i can just throw it all in and go. I might only be able to get poly bushings for the part that connects to the bottom of the car and not the suspension itself however. If memory serves that bushings attaching the bar to the suspension are weird.

Yea down at the exhaust i believe its a nickel. Up top its a quarter for sure as thats what im running right now.

As far as i kno, none of the newer subaru seats will be a direct bolt in replacement. You will have to get creative. I have 1999 Impreza RS seats in my 83 sedan. MUCH better than stock. But to do it i needed a welder and some thick sheet metal to adapt them to fit.

I would say from the sound of your e-brake needing to be pulled hard to engage, that your E-brake is seized. With this cold weather chances are your E-brake is either frozen or rusted shut. The reason you are pulling and not feeling any resistance is the cable is already pulled tight and it takes a good amount of travel in the handle to meet the cable again..if that makes sense.

No EA series car came with a rear sway bar (this includes turbos). The only way you are going to be able to make it work on a budget is to get either a RX rear sway bar or a XT6 sway bar (this one is a bit thicker than the RX). Both of these options mean you have to cut the mounting points off the parts car and have them welded to your trailing arms. You will also have to trim the XT6 bar down some to fit the narrower chassis (not sure if this is the same for the RX...assume it is). I have an XT6 bar on my sedan and i can say that it cuts down on body role a good deal. If your looking for handling you might also want to upgrade your front sway to a EA81T bar along with the springs from the same car. Good luck.

LMAO i wish. and as far as wheel bearings it would make noise constantly if it that was the case. This comes and goes only once in awhile.