DerFahrer

I saw two in person at the dealer, side by side, black and blue. I still don't like it. It's still an Edsel.

I should have specified. Try to move it side-to-side. If it feels like it's attached to something, you're alright. If it feels loose and wobbly, then your throwout bearing has probably come loose.

The throwout bearing is trapped on the input shaft between the clutch fork and pressure plate, so it still has to push the pressure plate in when you push the pedal down. So yes, it will still drive normally, shift fine, and assuming the clutch is in good condition, not slip. Honestly, it's not that big of a deal, you might be wearing your pressure plate out faster by driving it like this, but it's really not doing much else than making a lot of noise. Unfortunately, playing with the cable is pretty useless at this point If it bothers you though, with a friend's help, you can drop the tranny, put a new throwout bearing in, and reinstall the tranny in a day. Use these tips to be SURE this is the problem: - The bearing should make a lot of knocking noise when you push the pedal in, regardless of engine RPM. - The clutch fork should be very loose and wobbly when you grab it and wiggle it Good luck!

Yeah, I do that too. When I hear stories about taking an hour to change drivebelts or 2 hours to change an alternator, I like to show them my engine bay to rub it in their face

What probably happened is the throwout bearing came off the clutch fork completely, and is now spinning freely on the input shaft. That requires dropping the tranny to fix. Bummer Don't feel bad, that's what happened to me. However, tightening the cable might have made it worse, yes. Clutch cables on Subarus can be confusing to beginners because they don't quite make sense. If you TIGHTEN the cable, you make the freeplay of the clutch pedal smaller by putting the throwout bearing closer to the pressure plate. By loosening the cable, you make the freeplay of the clutch pedal larger by bringing the throwout bearing away from the pressure plate. By tightening the cable like you did, you probably just had the throwout bearing constantly pressing against the pressure plate, which would stop the squeaking, but will wear out the throwout bearing faster, or make it come off the clutch fork.

Traitor

99 was only the last year for the EJ22 in the Legacy. The EJ22 marched on in the Impreza till 01. The 97-up EJ22's had solid lifters and bump in CR from 9.5:1 to 9.7:1, making it interference, and the 99-up EJ22's were Phase II, which meant a change in bellhousing mounting, different-flowing heads, and a change in thrust bearing position. (EndWrench Fall 2003)

Sorry dude, it's around the 280hp figure like I thought. Here's the link: http://www.subaru.co.jp/forester/stiversion/mechanism/01/index.html You don't have to know Japanese to see it. Where is says 265PS, that means 265 Pferdstarke, the European way of rating horsepower. 1 Pferdstarke is roughly equal to 1 horsepower, so I would say that it's probably rated at 276hp. NOW... If you actually pull the motor, put it on an accurate dyno, and run it, I'm sure it will probably say more than that, most likely in the 320-350hp range. Most über Japanese sports cars (Nissan Skyline, Toyota Supra, Mitsubishi Evo, STi-tuned Subarus, etc.) make way more than the 280-hp limit. But the company will simply lie about the rating so the Japanese government will allow them to sell it.

Where did you get those specs??? It's a semi-enforced law/agreement that cars sold in Japan cannot be rated at more than 280hp.

Isn't there a relation between plastic intake manifolds and variable-length intake runners as well?

I like it too. I hope to get either an FXT or LGT before Subaru bastardizes them with the new grill like subieman alluded to.

Unnecessary weight

I'm sure most pads would generate that much dust if Will is driving Nice work dude!

Is this car automatic or manual? If it's automatic, strongly consider putting a transmission cooler on it if you do ANY towing. Subaru AT's are very strong, as long as they're maintained and don't overheat.

Is it FWD or 4WD?

I'm curious how you came to this conclusion. My understanding was that aluminum was an excellent dissipator of heat.

Once you hit xt6.net you will come across a sentence where some critics described the car as a "sheep in wolf's clothing.":rolleyes: In other words, they're not really very fast, just like the rest of the EA-series cars. You'll have to get creative in your modding to get power out of them. avatar382 has an 87 XT Turbo with extensive mods that can probably keep up with a stock WRX, and that's honestly probably the fastest EA-series car in the US right now. (Don't argue WJM, your car is busted )

Get in touch with avatar382, he's got Dennis ex24's old monster XT, which has an XT6 clutch in it.

The only reason you might have to use a puller would be if the car has seen a lot of snow , i.e. the axle is slightly rusted into the hub. Even then, you could probably just bang the axle a couple times with a hammer (put a piece of wood or something in between the axle stub and hammer, otherwise you will damage the axle stub and the place selling you the new axle might refuse it and not give you a core refund).

I agree with everyone. My 91 Legacy has all its original brake components, and I expect them to last much longer...

It's too much work if you're enjoying a nice homebrew The only of those things I have is a Subi (well, 3 of those actually), a garage, and jackstands. I don't like to drink while I'm working on cars for some reason, my tools are whatever's scattered about the garage floor, and I don't ride bikes (family curse).

I don't know where you got this information, but as best I can tell, it's wrong. I've never seen, heard of, or driven an XT6 with ABS brakes, and it is not listed at all for the XT6 in any of its model years...

I didn't know the Legacy SportShift doesn't have a gear indicator on the dash? That's weak . I've only driven 5MT versions of the new Legacy; I could never have a turbo Subaru automatic :-\

I doubt StopTech makes anything that EA cars can use other than pads and SS brake lines. I doubt Eibach makes springs for EA cars, at all. I doubt he has 285 hp, even if his engine is swapped. In fact, I doubt he even drove that car through all that mud. I think he just threw it on there with buckets and snapped the picture

Hehe. Don't feel bad, most of us have learned the hard way too. I fortunately only suffered a worsening of gas mileage with Bosch Plat 4's. SOHC engines are easy to do plugs on, as they're all sitting on the top side of the head. DOHC's have them in the middle of the head, between the two cams, right next to the frame