DerFahrer

I'm just gonna bump this thread in hopes some other FL Subie people that are new will see it

I think they just come out of adjustment after a while. I adjusted my Legacy's parking brake less than a year ago, and it's already about 15-16 clicks before it will hold the car. The pads looked okay when I did a brake job, so I don't think that's it. Who knows? I just know that adjusting that cable is much more of a pain than it should be...

I did more work than I anticipated replacing the valve cover gaskets and the water pump O-ring on my EA82 XT. Doing the left valve cover made me realize there are 15,000 wires on an XT that I have absolutely no idea what purpose they serve :brolleye: and every last one got in the way. I also had lots of fun moving the A/C compressor off to the side to gain access to the water pump to replace the O-ring from the radiator pipe. I can honestly confirm that the 80's Scoobs are much more difficult to work on than my Legacy... It's okay though. I have wanted an XT since the first day I saw one, I am still in love with the car... ...Even though my Hill-Holder valve is still leaking!!! My friend and I bled the brakes tonight, since that was the only thing that had to be done to make it roadworthy again. But after bleeding them 3 times and still having a mushy pedal, I rechecked the HH valve to find fluid everywhere. It wasn't where I sealed it up either... So I'm just going to bite the bullet and start saving up to buy a new one from the dealer. I know, I sound like a moron, but I'm kinda trying to restore the car, and I am not going to half-rump roast anything. Buying one from a junkyard gives me no peace of mind, since that part could have the same problems. It's a good thing the Legacy is running pretty peachy right now, but hey it's been my one and only daily for almost 3 years before I got the XT, so I'm not concerned... Anyway, I am still without a working wedge unfortunately... I hope to have it driveable again, because I am starting to miss driving it

I screwed up my bumper in February , and last summer, I bought a replacement and had it painted on the side for $75 where I work. Needless to say, being done on the side, it was done half-assedly (is that a word? :brolleye: ) Anyway, I too have some chunks of paint missing on the bumper, and I plan on getting it repainted soon... The problem is, the bumper wasn't sealed right. If it is sealed right (they use some special chemical that allows the paint to bond to bendable surfaces like plastic) then it won't chip. And they can do a pretty good job of matching paint from not only the color code, but they might do a slight bit of mixing to match the slightly faded paint the rest of your car might have...

I'm with Schmitty as I would also like to know what Haynes manual you have? What number specifically? My manual for Legacies shows absolutely no transmission related diagrams for anything more than the shifter and crossmember locations and such. The reason why it says that you should let a shop rebuild it is because the Haynes people don't think the home mechanic is qualified to work with the viscous coupling/center differential in 4WD Subarus. (Doesn't say anything about 2WD's but when was the last time Haynes got that specific :brolleye:?)

The IAC is not vacuum-operated to my knowledge. It works on the input from the ECU based on the TPS readings. When the TPS tells the ECU the throttle plate is closed, the ECU then tells the IAC to open. How I know: Josh did say not to touch the throttle stopscrew. While I was talking about the one on the top side of the throttle body, and not the one towards the bottom (do NOT touch that one for sure!), the truth is you shouldn't touch either, although the top is more forgiving than the bottom. Anyway, why you shouldn't touch them is because you are now altering the TPS signal and the ECU is now going to operate the IAC valve under new parameters. But still keep in mind: If the IAC valve is stuck closed with the aforementioned screws in factory positions, the car will not run at idle!

Buahaha! I like this: "brought it to half rump roast mechanic and spent $350" I am amazed that it drove home with a timing belt 180-deg off and with a disty off too!!! If that isn't a testament to the unstoppable nature of an old Subie, I don't know what is!!

You all don't like my cars??? :boohoo: I know some are stillshots, but they're so pretty I put some action shots in too My XT My Legacy XT in action Legacy after a mudfest! Both Scoobs together!

I am cvaxles.com's beotch now! I have posted their site on every CV axle thread I see! frag, call em up, they'll find some for you... The fastest way to do it IMO is pop the balljoints out of the knuckle. There is absolutely no need to do anything with the tie-rod ends or swaybar links...

I once was puzzled when both my parking lights were out, and since I'm not an electrician, I started the cheap way and replaced both bulbs. They have both worked fine since...

Your IAC valve will not let the car idle at all if it's malfunctioning. It will just stall no matter what. Unless of course, the stopscrew on the throttle body has been moved to create a makeshift idle... Tell ya what. Find the screw, it's very close to where the throttle cable attaches to the throttle body. Tighten it some, then turn your A/C on. If the idle , but will still run, after you have played with the screw, then, yes it is your IAC valve... If that doesn't work, I'd check your A/C compressor for lack of oil or something... or maybe a problem with the clutch...

I'm thankful for my Subarus, for my grandparents for giving me a great home, and for Domino's Dots!!!

Alias, the facelift was in 92 for USDM Legacies, not 93... 90-91 Legacies look the same and 92-94 Legacies look the same... Not sure when the motorized seatbelt was axed, but I wish it wasn't. I'm one of the few advocates of them... The "raised roof" wagons you speak of were ones like the GT wagon and Sun Sport wagon, and there's another I'm forgetting, but I think those were 94 only, not positive though... Oh and 500th post

There is no rear camshaft seal on the driver's head. The only reason there is on an N/A passenger head is because if it was turbo, the turbo would get its oil supply from there... And yes, it is prone to leaking, and it is also the easiest oil seal on the whole car to replace... However, I did not know you could switch heads on either side of the engine on EJ engines! Alias, where do you remember seeing that? I'd like to read up on that myself... I too am pondering your decision to swap a EJ18 into a car previously equipped with an EJ22. I don't feel the EJ22 is underpowered as Alias does, but downsizing 400cc and losing 20 hp doesn't seem logical. It's not a reliability issue either, since the EJ22 might very well be Subaru's best built engine ever!

I say the gas is bad. I remember how ANGRY I got at my grandfather for something so asinine, it almost left me stranded on the road at 1AM. My Legacy was misbehaving that night, so I decided she could sit in the garage and pout :temper: So I borrowed my granpa's 92 Isuzu p'up, carbed 2.3L... Coming home, the engine just died. I tried starting it, to no avail. I tried starting it with the pedal to the floor, and it started, but I let off the gas and it died again. So I started it again at WOT, and kept it there. It ran fine with the throttle wide open, any less and it would die. So I literally drove the truck WOT all the way home. Thank heavens it is so slow, so I wasn't really going all that fastm even floored I got home and parked it and had to sit and relax for a few minutes, then went to bed. I woke up and told him in the morning, saying maybe it had a bad fuel pump or something. He said "no, it's full, I just put some gas that I found somewhere in it not too long ago..." I damn near slapped him right there for putting UNKNOWN gas in his vehicle!!! Who knows what else was in it besides gasoline??? Water, beer, skunk piss??? So now that I got that old story off my chest, put some fresh gas in it and see what happens

I would just get a Midas muffler or similar. I don't really think an OEM muffler would be worth the price...

There is no Legacy coupe. Never has been, probably never will be... And I'm not totally sure what you are referring to as "running gear". Do you mean the drivetrain, engine and tranny etc.? That should fit, yes.. assuming the level of trim is the same (both either turbo/nonturbo, MT/AT, etc.) Any differences might necessitate some modifications...

I'm a little confused by your post, wrxsubaru, as you are saying the imported engine is not using a distributor, but whatever the EJ22 uses (which is a coilpack, which in turn has nothing to do with oil)... So I'm not sure why you are looking to fix a distributor leak when you're saying there is none? I'm not trying to be rude, I'm just telling you what I read...

If it's cable, it needs adjustment. But if it's hydraulic, I would also start with the throwout bearing. Don't deem the tranny bad just yet...

A fine example of two cream puff Subies if I may say so myself Awww, they're hugging!

Maroon, make sure you have an OEM thermostat! I have heard grisly stories about overheating Subarus with aftermarket T-stats. Subarus don't like them. Get a OEM one from the dealer!!!

Mike is totally and completely right about using OEM PCV valves. I had a Purolator one on my Legacy for about 10k miles, and when my oil level kept creeping down without any noticeable leaks, I decided to put a new OEM valve on. The hose that you describe, viceversa, was covered in a thick oil residue, suggesting that the valve was allowing too much engine vaccuum into the PCV system. I sprayed all the hoses out with brake cleaner and installed the new valve, and I am hard pressed to find hardly ANY oil residue on the hoses anymore...

The only thing you need for touch-up paint is the paint code, which should be on the plate on the driver's front strut tower... Decoding VIN's isn't that hard... Yours is a Legacy, which is built in Indiana, so the VIN will probably start with a 4S. It's a Legacy Wagon 3rd-gen, so your chassis code should be BH... Not sure of the year and trim codes, but the last six indicate the exact number that yours rolled off the line... 047645 means yours was the 47,645th one produced...

Even if some parts are slightly different, that shouldn't prevent you from upgrading with suspension mods. The suspensions aren't so different as to prevent that... Exhaust systems should be the same too... Best bet IMO would be to look at http://www.mrtperformance.com, as they have all kinds of suspension upgrades for all kinds of Subies... Be forewarned though, they're not the fastest people down under :brolleye: Urabus, I don't know so much about the grey import models, but typically with Subies, the RS is the sedan and the GT is the wagon, as Legacies go. However, TS would make sense because the Impreza TS here is the wagon...

OBS stands for OutBackSport, so yes an Imp Outback... There is an Outback Sedan, but it's a Legacy Outback, there is no Imp Outback sedan... An Impreza L Wagon was the base Impreza (except the Brighton) through 01. The only nonturbo Imprezas now are the RS Sedan, TS wagon, and OBS... The RS Sedan and TS wagon have the same setup, except the TS used to have rear drums in 02-03, now all 04 Imprezas have discs in the rear... The OBS differs from other Imprezas by the two-tone paint scheme, the different front grill, different wheels, a different interior, and the major difference, a slightly raised and more "off-roady" suspension. Those are the only differences.