suburpy

Just purchased an 84 Touring Wagon in Mint Condition. I have to tell someone, so where better than USMB. I purcahsed this car of the original owner (he had it for 21 Yrs). Last year he drove 1000 km in it!! It is immaculate with a full Subaru Dealer service history and it is a rare 4sp manual (all the other touring wagon's I have seen before 84 are 3sp. auto - GRRRR!!). Has everything that was "high tech'" in 84. Ie Power Windows, steering, AC, velour trim, glovebox mirror, digi dash (Still working), cruise control. I love the factory chrome wheels and 'roo bar' and particulary love the gold lettering on the back. This car was originally a dealer demo, hence the factory addition roof racks, etc, the decals came from the factory. It is brilliant mechanically (but did need new clutch and carby rebuild) and I hope to keep it this way. The previous owner was such a perfectionists that all the parts ever used are genuine Subaru parts (really strange to see a subaru blue oil filter). Anyway I love it - hope you enjoy looking at it too You can view it here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?ppuser=11974&cat=500

Its your carby. Needs a clean out. Most likely the primary circuit jets and passages are blocked with gunk. Normal for later wagons to only have fuel pump running when start and not when ignition on.

Solved - thankx USMB, subiemech, naru and as always GD. It was indeed the vacuum adjustment. I didnt mention I had just rebuilt carby after dirt in petrol Again!!! (Outback service stations) GRRR!! Must have gone on differently adjusted, all is good now. Learning something like this about my car is why I love these forums.

Yeah some confusion re exchange rates and all that but $90 US is about $160 Australian. Can get KYB struts for about this each, the Monroe struts are $330 each. Made here in my City but cheaper in US, what The? The ones on ebay are $40 Aus, about $15 US. Good to see they will fit.

Can I interchange the 81 struts (going to put gas inserts in the struts) into my 84 wagon. They appear to be the same, both have the ride height adjustment stuff - are they basically the same strut? The gas inserts are about $450 cheaper than new struts from Ebay - hence my question

My 84 wagon (EA81, electric dizzy) is idling fine at 800 RPM and was idling at 950 with AC on. It has just started running at 1200 rpm idle when the AC is on. I noticed that when I put AC both of the (factory) electric fans come on as well - would this increase RPM. I thought it would draw current and drop the RPM a little (ie when the thermoswitch trips the fans without the AC on the RPM drops about 50). What could cause this RPM increase - the relay?, switch, Electronic components in the dizzy? Help me, my wagon is mint and I want it good, it is a one owner (21 yrs) full subaru service history and only 120,000 kms (75K miles) - oh and it is 38 Celsius (100 F) and a balmy 42 (107 F) predicted tomorrow - good thing I got a brand new radiator from the JY for $16 - beauty.

Yep got one in my 84 4WD touring wagon, only reason the missus let me get the car. Now she can do half of her beauty regime on the way to where we are going - Thanks Subaru!!

Thanks This is good a EA81 with 40 K shouldnt even make the famous suby tick - WOW!

Had a similar problem in my 83 Ea81 after carby rebuild. Turns out that the clip? for the needle valve was causing the needle valve to stick occasionally. No fuel no run. Removed clip in rebuild, never had the problem again. That was a Hitachi Carb though.

I am looking at buying a 1984 4Wd Touring wagon ( a GL but with the high roof and MY body style ) It is a dealer demo, one owner, factory chrome wheels, roof rack, bull bar and everything else. It has a full service history and only 40 K miles on it. It is immaculate but it is a fair drive to look at it. I was wondering if the 84 (read 83, cause they swapped to the new shape in Nov 84 in Oz.), is the EA81 motor or the OHC EA82 motor. It has a 4sp. manual (rare option in this model). Does anyone know, especially any ozzie members?

Gday FBH My 93 Gl was doing something similar recently. Turned out to be a couple of things. So check these out: (1) The carby to inlet manifold mounting bolts and gasket. an air leak can occur at idle but hwne under laod the vacum can pull it tight and the car seems to be Ok. When you come to a stop and the vacum is less it will sometimes stop. (2) The alternator. Mine was gone but for a couple of weeks before the car would intermittently stop. Check voltage once started, should be putting in over 14 volts. Check voltage when stopped should be over or near 13 volts. Mine was onlt putting in 11 volts (internal voltage regulator out of phase) - swap in new alternator , goes good. (3) I also had dirt in the idle system of the carby. Pull carby apart soak and clean out, put in second fuel filter under hood, fixed the idle. There is a telltale sign of the blockage, because when the car can use the idle system in carby it trys to use fuel elswhere, mine was leaking fuel on the driver side of throttle body. Hope this helps

Yeah that is cool, and even better is I live in the same town and have seen this car driving around. In fact there is another one I have seen in Adelaide as well, which has got 16" wheels and looks mean!! The other one was a marshall car for the SA leg of Rally Australia. Besides Cody Crockers WRX this was the pick of the cars for that day. The one in this website must be tough, to live and rally around Clare. These are tough gravel roads, I remember just doing normal driving through this area and tore open three tyres on one strecth of road within about 1 Km. If it rains (>1mm) the red dust turns to mud and you are bogged immediately, great to see the GM Commdores and Ford Falcon 6's struggling, my old EA81 suby would cruise past. Go South Aussie!!!

Not as interested in HP gains as in better fuel economy. With a 5% gain from electric fans and a 10-15% gain from a EWP. I could get 10L/100km rather than the current 11-12l/100 km. Petrol in OZ is at about $1.30 a litre. My $50 of petrol only gets me 360km. This would get me about 410km. I calculate this would save about $5-8 per week. At $500 aus to install it would only take a year to pay for itself. I also think that there may be advantages to the cooling system in an older car, as it seems that heat is a major killer of these vehicles. Any extra help with cooling would be great.

Thanks looks like I might have fried a few things then, real dumb - live and learn

I did something dumb. I removed the coil wires and didnt see which ones went to positive and negative:banghead: . I have three wires, two yellow, one black and white. It is a carbed loyale (non feedback) breakerless electronic system. I think? that Black White and one yellow to -ve and one yellow to +ve. Is this right?

Thanks, Will try the coil and see if it is better. Just wondering if maybe I fried the ignition module by wiring up the wrong terminals on the igntion coil. I have a black &white wire and yellow wire to the negative side and a yellow wire to the positive side. This seems wrong, the Black/white is +ve? This is a 93 l series in OZ, it is a non-feedback carby model. Similar to 85,86, 87 (pre Fuel injector). Any help appreciated?

I am having troubles with my 93 carby loyale. Started stalling at idle thought it was the dizzy, replced with JY dizzy still stall and rough idle. Checked fuel supply - very little, checked pump with hot wire - pump is fine! Now I am getting no spark as well, at the plugs. The ignition coil is showing battery voltage on + and - side. Is it possible that the JY dizzy is no good would this stop the fuel pump? I also note that some timing and tachometer can affect the electronic points system - maybe I have fried the ignition module in the dizzy? I thought the rough idle might be from slipping timing belts as I noticed a small oil leak from the camshaft oil seals leking through the timing belt covers, but would this cause it to be that bad? Why wont the car even fire up know? Any help would be appreciated I need my car for work.

My 93 Loyale has just started running funny, it's fine at higher revs and seems normal but every time I come to a stop it idles badly and will most times stop within 8-10 seconds. I thought it was the dizzy, as i had the same thing on my 81 swagon and swapped dizzys and it went fine. So did that to the 93, with a hitachi that had been rebuilt and same problem. Thought then might be fuel problem but couldnt work out why this didn't show up at higher revs? Then disconected fuel line at carby and hose into bottle to see if fuel getting through, when engine cranked got a small amount but then stopped. Replaced fuel pump with JY pump, crank engine no fuel at all into bottle. Car not start at all I cannot hear any pump sound when I swich ignition on (was audible from meters away on the ea81 when ignition swithced on) There is voltage shows 12.8 at connectors when ignition on Both fuel pumps I tested by wiring to 12V source and they pumped fuel, is it possible they are just not delivering enough fuel despite still working? Is this the engine revolution sensor thingo Any help appreciated as I like this car and its annoying me - they usually so easy to fix:)

So easy to fix and maintain, I swapped clutches, transmissions, everything and all without a problem - never would have done this to a Holden (GM)!! or Ford!! People think I'm clever for dpoing this. I can talk to Ford V8 heads and most mechanics and they 'freak out' that I fix suby me self!!! Reliable - my auto 93 Loyale has done 260,000 kms no issues, my previous ea81 wagons just went and went. Upgrades - easy to swamp and change things to improve them The sound - I can pick a suby coming from anywhere, that engine noise is better than a V8 for mine! Don't like the seats!

Yeah, I live in sleepy old Adelaide. Got an 81 wagon with 2" lift, modified exhaust, bull bar, now a farm wagon My daily is a 93 L series GL, auto:brow:

Does any one have any experience, knowledge, thoughts on fitting Electric Water Pumps (EWP) into L series (Loyale) engines, like the ones at this link : daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=8. It seems like a better idea than removing the engine fan and replacing with a second electric fan, although you could install a second fan as well. Still leaves you with the original thermatic fan and with the controller you can set the temperature of the engine, no searching for lower temperature thermostats. They also report fuel savings of up to 15% at higher speeds. Some drawbacks might be the lack of coolant to heater core reported in some vehicles.

Gday, wondering if any one knows if I can fit Legacy (Liberty) seats into a 93 Loyale (L series) 4wd wagon.

Yep real easy to check, get the silicion gasket stuff before hand though:D saves driving up hill in cloud of white smoke:dead:

Lots of threads on this. Look for auto fluid, auto govenor, auto tranny. Just done all of this to 93 auto GL. Fairly easy, auto pan gasket, clean and deburr govenor, couple of changes of tranny fluid in a row. Works great now:)

Thanks Mate Was my first post, yeah thought the grinder might be the next option, dont care about the nuts, be glad to to get rid of them. Would get you round to help - if you want to visit Oz.