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The VDC has kicked in many times in our 03 VDC. Which does have an off button. They also have rear LSD standard. We drive goat-trailish roads around her and in the winter they can get nasty, car drives straight and true. Any system such as this can be dangerous, especially since it gives the driver a sense of go anywhere at any speed like confidence. Remember " You can fool mother nature but You can NOT lie to Father Physics."

I missed if this is an auto or manual? Try it in nuetral if it's an auto. It maybe starter solenoid contacts it may be ignition switch contacts in may be a nuetral start inhibitor switch Try the jump or another battery with cleaning the connections. Then tell us the results. No need throwing parts at it at this stage without further investigation.

Speaking for the entire USMB. Our pleasure sir, glad we could be of assisatance.

Most name brand auto parts will do it for free e.g. Auto Zone, Advanced Auto you should call first to be sure. If you want a quick check get a multimeter and measure the battery voltage. With the lights and heater fan on, high idle (1500 RPM or so) you should see about 14 volts anything under 12 is trouble. Hope this helps. DO NOT disconnect the battery as a check.

On the "jump" routine folow #1 above. Then A) Connect cables safely. Allow jumper to run at an elevated idle for a couple minutes C) prior to attempting to start. D) Remove cables safely follow #,2,3 in above post

I think 1) Clean all battery cable connections 2) Have the alt output checked 3) Have the battery condition checked

you could pull the diff dip stick and see if it smells the same I will assume you checked the rad fluid level also? The tranny cooler is intergrated as mentioned in the rad.

check the front diff level. I have never seen it in a newer 4EAT but the old 3AT had a habit of loosing the seal between the diff and tranny - over filling of the tranny could result. The smell of the puked fluid could give a clue to this. Gear oil smells way different than ATF.

Howdy Wayne, No need to pull the hood as they stand straight up. I tie mine off to the rear tiedown. The factory prop rod can be removed and used but the rope does not get in the way while wrenching. You can find all the obvious replacement parts in one of the other many threads on this proceedure. One sometimes missed is removing the oil pump and applying lock tite to the rear screws.

3/4" must be the OD?? More info needed here Was the tranny just replaced?? Maybe they forgot to connect the cooling lines. For an asap answer we need more info. Could these be the vent tubes for the tranny and diff Is the tranny over filled?

up to MY97 you are correct after => train crash of the valve variety

May take is the dealer needs examined. This could be an 02 sensor problem and not the cat.

My pleasure Cougar. Been meaning to do it for some time, sorry for the delay. Hope the title makes it an EZ find while searching.

Another vote for Suzam and Frag The evidence I present is the non wide band A/F meters I have on all three of my turbo cars. They all go flat lean (pegged) when descending hills. When at idle the meters tick tock like when cruising. Now Nipper's comment on the ECU triggering the injectors to flow enough petrol to maintain cat temp does have merit. The lean backfire through the cat is bogus, it's not the ignition that is turned off but the fuel flow. If the ignition were turned off the build up of fuel in the cat could cause what he says. If this were the case all my cars would be doing this after each hill I go down as it is super lean on the decend. There may be a timer circuit involved also. I know the idle switch is because if I just open the throttle a wee bit, the meters tick tock like normal. I have a Mac Tools automotive oscilloscope. I should connect it to an injector and see if I can Myth Bust this one. This is getting off the OP topic, I still vote valve seals and possibly some PVC piping issues. (Remembering back to the old EA82 problem)

you might think about doing the oil pump "Mickey Mouse" gasket and seal while in that deep. If you do remove the crank timing belt pulleys be sure to keep them in order. The little bolts holding the belt covers on may prove entertaining. The 0-ring on the rad pipe to H20 pump is.... The small 90 deg hose on the H20 pump to the heater feed pipe is.... ... = a good thing to replace

Hi Tim, glad you got it fixed. I promised to look it up and I did create a post for it http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83667&highlight=SPFI Good luck on the other problem, you will find many many threads on a fix. One of the best one I saw was retapping them to SAE 7/16" fine and replacing the studs.

just a correction to some previous statements Open loop = cold engine ECU ignores the 02 sensor(s) as it is not up to op temp. A/F ratio determined by the FI coolant sensor. Closed loop = warm engine - all systems monitored and A/F ratio is adjusted by the ECU as per the 02 sensor(s)

sounds t-stat oriented OEM is recco'd, 193 deg in winter. Make sure the spring is toward the block. Burp any air out of the system may also help

+2 on what Ed said OEM are recco'd

Mr. Charlie, sir, Please for the sake of our older readers (like me) When typing long passages please use the "enter" key more often. No offense to you, but some of us old farts have a tuff time reading even with the large font selected. As far as you problem, very nice job on the spread sheet!!! We all should use a similar system. Most excellent, sir. I did not see the idler pulleys mentioned when the timing belt was done. Your H20 in the gas theory may have merit also. Funny noises can cause calamity.

My point was simply that with a totally broken CV the axle would spin (possibly flail around) and the action of the car would feel real strange. Maybe it's the DOJ but that's doubtful. Either way... Mr. Suban need to make some arrangements.

WA if what you say is correct and it sounds like it is to me, how did this happen " put the car in drive and pulled forward" Would the AWD allow him to do this? If it's gone: first the car will need flatbedded second with the weather the E-brake may stick on. third it is not a real expensive repair (2~5 c-notes) Subaan this is a warning you may want to investigate this on your lunch break as you may need alternate transportation to get home.

Thia was covered a few eeks ago I hope you will find what you need. It's long but does have links to the pictures you need http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83032&highlight=projector

Snow worries, mate With the reading you saw and the engine temp somewhat warm, I would have to say the sensor is toast. I do believe NAPA and other parts places carry the part.

Are you having trouble a) seeing the chart linked to? understanding what it means?