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Just a real dumb question, I am sorry to have to ask it. I have seen no where, where you made sure the rotor in the dist was turning when cranking. If the driverside timing belt breaks the rotor will not turn thus the CAS (Crank Angle Sensor) in th dist will not rotate thus the ECU will not send a spark signal to the amplifier for amplification. Sorry for the ??? I have been known to bark up many wrong bark covered objects

Well being the "see it I might believe it" type I went and looked at my 97 OB Here is what I saw

that is a strange looking resonator (one shown on the front of the original pipe) cats get real hot thus the heat shields I just wonder why this "resonator" needs the cat like heat shield. Can you look into it and see a honeycomb? Could it be some strange CA model that found it's way to PA?

There are dash mounted ampmeters that have the shunt built into them. These were in vogue back in the sixties, many Britsh cars had them (good old PoD -> Prince of Darkness) Problem is the large gage wires needed to be run to and fro the meters. The model Cougar mentions is a better choice for your application. Small gage wires (18 or 20 AWG) can be run to the dash mounted meter. Only the newest style Amprobes measure DC the older units only measured AC. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clamp_meter

Could by chance the NAPA pipe be part of a system NAPA sells the combines the two cats into one three way cat mounted in front of the resonator pictured? IF this vehicle was in a smog inspected area it may not pass, without the other parts.

Just gotta comment Porc73 you are da'man with your pictures and diagrams!! I for one say "Thanks for the job-well done!!"

"Hard to believe it would be gas filter. I am assuming its the pump." I do not know if I agree with this. How long has it been since the fuel filter was changed? If when it starts to die can you keep it running with starting fluid? If you want a simple test, remove the line to the carb. Place in jar. When the key is turned on it should pump gas for like two seconds then shut off. The wiring as Cougar says the wiring runs under the seat. The power is supplied to the pump via the FP relay. Pump is on a small shelf under the car. The ground for the pump (which controls the on/off function) Is controled by the ECU.... (if you have an 02 sensor you have an ECU) If no ECU then the revolution sensor controls the ground -on/off of the pump. Hope some of this helps.

I also remember reading about the dash mounted Voltage Regulator GD mentions. If I remember (doubtful), it's mounted to the PC board on the rear of the display. It could be (if the entire dash is out) that this VR burns open. With no voltage the entire visable portion would be out. Connie, congrats on the El Cee Squared (LCC -Little Cute Coupe.) Remember.. it is a "Cou Pay" as coupes are for chickens.

Hi Phil, welcome aboard the good ship USMB. I second everything Gary said. He's been around enough of these swaps to know where and what to look for. Follow his advise. We are going to assume the 00 EJ22 was known to run before this swap. The intake manifold swap was a good idea, and if it fits properly should be the way to go. Have you tried starting fluid ? You could take the line off from the fuel filter Put it in a jar amd make sure you get gas flow for about 2 seconds when the key it turned on. Good luck, please keep us updated. Many of us are running similar swaps, mostly a couple years older than your years.

Geart news and info Thanks for the update.

" The glove compartment may have been left ajar, and I'm wondering if the little light in there could have drained the battery." Yes it could. If I read you correctly ... you are putting the test light in series with the negative battery cable and the negative post on the batterry... This is correct. The flash you see is a capacitor or power supply in an item (such as your radio or the ECU) charging. Open the glove box door and see if you can see the test light filament glow. This will not be very bright as the current is pretty small. Have someone hit the brakes or turn on the parking lights this will show you what a large current draw looks like. You are sure the virgin switch is not on. What car are we talking about? Hope this helps.

backwoods makes some very valid points This could be a tuff nut to crack Do you have a multimeter? We are going to assume by your statement that the reason is not fogged lens A very common malady of these Legs. If both right and left show this problem then the common connection points need examined. The lighting system uses two circuits (relays and fuses) for the power to the right and left headlamps. The common point would be the headlamp switch and the ground point the switch puts on the filiment(s) you want lit (hi or Low beams). Assuming it is a voltage problem a wiring diagram may you trouble shoot the voltage drop? Hope some of this helps

We are assuming your "hatch" looks something like this Is this correct? Thanks to EZ for the shot

Because there are about a dozen different posts on this. I merged them together to make it easier for you to see them all. Is that alright? Please PM me if you have a problem with this. I was just attempting to help.

Sounds like you do not mind getting your hands a bit dirty I am thinking it is a transmitted vibration from a front half shaft (axle). CV more likely DOJ The boots should be examined for cracks or tears. You could remove the rear half of the drive shaft and see if it changes the vibe. The front half seals fluid in the tranny. How many clicks (miles, Km ect) on this puppy?

these are way kewl but the thread is getting old

Jason did you have the oil pump off the engine? It has been reported that a) the "mickey mouse" gasket is fit improperly an over application of RTV plugs some oil passages all other info given is also in the mix. Hope it is niether of my WAGs

Maybe somebody is working somebody as from the look of this- a FSM reprint of a normal Legacy drive shaft It does come off. Disclaimer: this is not a H6 unit. I guess they could be different? I searched the FSM 6 cyl supplement and found no information to contradict this.

Howdy Blaze, sorry no bell no chime just a lame little light. If you do want to test / fix it... Behind the rear seat next to the pass side strut tower under the carpet is a cover in the floor. After removing the cover you will see the top of the fuel tank and the fuel pump and fuel level sender wiring. Here is the strange part. The light comes on when a sensor (called in the FSM a "thermistor" --> strange part see below) in the tank grounds the wire for the dash light. A "thermistor" is a thermal device that varies resistance as a function of temperature. In this case would vary the voltage across the lamp? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermistor The wire from the plug you will see is a blue w/ green tracer wire. (Gen I Leg. info here) This wire runs to the lamp. The lamp is given positive battery voltage on it's other side. This all seen on the wiring diagram in the FSM. I have also read where the ECU needs the fuel temp so this devise may function as both. The ECU may ground the lamp at a certain voltage like when the sensor is exposed to air?? I tested the one in the picture and it did vary it's resistance with temp. How the lamp knows when to come on given a certain voltage as the thermistor would do is a good question. I'm sure this doesn't help much, it does bring up a very interesting question. I thank you for giving me a reason to investigate it.

Thanks and good luck Bob, please keep us updated. Yea, RR is no mo a Latrobe Legacy they brew Sam Adams now.

Howdy Dale, No major complaints/ issues with the rear diff if it's kept full of fluid. Or wheel bearing for that matter - Imps and Foresters -> yes the fix was the Legacy (OB) wheel bearing. He has to check tire sizes all around as it could be something else... I'm sure you have heard of torque bind. This is alo the era of the Head gasket problem. Also if he can get any service records in reference to the timing belt and it's assoc. parts it would be a bonus. As you know this is an intereference engine and nasty things happen when the timing belt system goes toast.

hey Destey, you promised to tell us more about your NOS system 'speriment. Please do - okay? You thinkin' about a wet shot?

Hi Bob, fellow PAian. Since the engine was recently removed a pulled connector still comes to mind. Forgive me I do not know the 4EAT you have very well, but The older 4EAT units had a resistor in the engine compartment by the pass. side strut tower. This resistor was in series with one of the line pressure solenoids and was brought into play by the TCU to prevent hash shifts. Maybe this resistor became unplugged (damaged) during the removal/instal. I may be all wet on this one, but if it is "open" it could trigger the fault code.

I agree with GD but Have you ever heard any wierd noises from the fuel pump? Could it possibly be getting warm and not making the output the engine needs to run above idle. Can you swap the coil bracket and or the CAS (dist) from your buddy's ride?

Howdy Doogy, First thing you need is a new set of spark plug wires. Best to stick with the factory units. Sure sounds like one of you battery connections needs cleaned. OR Some how the battery has gone toast or is a Neverstart unit (Walmart brand down here) Your list of want-2-du s is going to help. as I hope this answer does.