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Nipper if you are not beatin' a dead horse why did he say he hears a click???? You are basicly questioning his hearing. Come on, being nice here. Please read the entire post before jumpin' to your concultions.

"You could rule out electreical by just unplugging the harne for the trans and going for a drive. The trans should function by hydraulic pressure alone at that point." I would be interested in seeing if this is a fact or a guess. How do solenoids open and close with no electrical input? Is there an over ride function (pilot pressure or line pressure??) that forces them open/closed? Maybe G knows it better, I know I don't.

Nipper says " First next time it happens put the car in neutral, see if its the neutral saftey switch." I do not think this is the situation here.

Nice of you to offer Jon but I don't want to broadcast my address. I'm sure you will get many replys. Happy Holly Daze to you and thanks for doing what you do for us Suby nutz. Great having vendors like you aboard!!

Since this is an electronic tranny, I say it would be a waste to right it off for a TCU or it's inputs problem. Guess you will find out when you swap the tranny. Why not wire just one LED to the second gear shift solenoid, if it lights and does not shift.. well nuff said. I am absolutly sure you and Nipper will hash it out.

brand new REBUILT starter. Sometimes when you try to start the car, you hear the click of the starter solinoid engaging, but the starter doens't spin. I've cleaned all the connections and was still having a problem. last time I had a nuetral safety switch problem there was no clicking as Keith says some rebuilds are not as good as others but.. the test outlined in the post will show if the ignition switch contacts are to blame. If so the relay is a much easier fix than changing the ignition switch. Congrats on the hitchin' enjoy your Vayca.

this sounds like a fuel starvation issue I believe this car has two fuel filters, the one under the hood is called a vapor separator. The other one is under the car by the fuel pump. This one is the first line of defense (some call second due to the fuel pick up sock in the tank) I'd try changing those as a first step.

I have never seen one factory installed. This may be why no one has answered. Can you show me this on a FSM wiring diagram? BTW I have put them on many Subarus.

"..i'm sure it's complicated....???" I built the tranny shift solenoid monitor used cuurently in one of my 4EATs Seen here in detail 4EAT monitor Yes the shift algorithm is complicated it could be your line pressure is falling and thus no shift from first. You might try wiring a similar device to watch the output from the TCU. This would narrow down the problem to the tranny or the TCU. One guess is the line pressure is not making the trip when warm. The TPS may also have the idle switch stuck on this may prevent the TCU from letting it shift. As it could be either the tranny not shifting or the TCU not telling it to shift, I would try and narrow it down to which is at fault. Doesn't the XT6 have some switch on the console to keep it in the lower gears?

this is an easy one for an ADD lame brain like me tech says "car doesn't come on check engine light after start car." he is just saying there is no check engine light on when the car is running thus he passed the vehicle what am I missing aside from some brain cells?

classic FI coolant temp sensor problem?? I don't know where you live but it sounds like the ECU does not know the engine is cold.

another sugg have Santa bring you an early Xmas gift....... a jump box!!

since the battery is old and no doubt needs replaced have some one get you a new battery on their lunch break instal it and drive to the test place. the tools for this should be in the Subaru kit?? if you had AAA they will bring you and install a bat. sorry can't help with the edit problem

Well used alt are not that expensive nor are rebuilts. The "needing water" could have been caused by the alternators internal voltage regulator going haywire. This can cause an over charging situation which boils the H20. After time the overcharging causes the diodes to go bad. Best to get the alt checked before throwing parts at it. You could have warped plates in the battery now also. This condition shorts out cells and well ...battery time.

+1 for Keiths sugg. plus, I remove the bleeder nipple and coat the threads with anti sieze to prevent air from being drawn in.

under the shifter console (part that has the PRND21 on it) kind of a pain as the entire center console needs lifted, you will have to push the unlock pin to get this part out.

"I guess I'm asking if anyone agrees that its the battery and not the alternator, or something worse." I for one do not agree. The battery may be toast now but your description leads me to think that half the output diodes in the alt are toast. Thus with the headlights and no doubt heater fan on, the alt can not make enough juice to support the load and recharge the bat. Have the alt output tested and make sure the cables other ends connections are clean. Whats a 2KOBW ??

Welcome aboard the good ship USMB. You say "Hmmm. any advice?" Yes, before throwing parts at it. Break out the multimeter and test the resistance of the EGR solenoid coils. Should be ~ 35 ohms, if the meter shows infinity, then put into the search box "parts supplier" 1stsubaru.com is one of the more mentioned places Sure hope this helps.

This entire post is getting nowhere. Silver, please post a new thread linking to the web site for your car. I am sure many people will want to see it. If you would be so kind as to include the appraised value it would be most appreciated.

I was wondering which system he meant also? The pressure type - tank with gauge - pressurizes the master cyl. Open an bleeder -> out comes the fluid. I like the vacuum type (Mity Vac or my home made system) Sucks the fluid through the system. If you use the brake pedal to bleed them, listen to the Roosters method. Do not push the brake pedal to the floor. The bottom part of the MC may have crud that gets dragged up onto the seals. My EZ bleed -vacuum pump and vacuum flask.

no tranny type mentioned but if it is an auto the vacuum modulator (pass side low) will do this when the diaphram ruptures. Pull the line to it off -> ATF is seen thats the problem. (sugg you start a new post if this isn't the answer)

Thanks for the reference AZ but THE Dude does not tell us what car/engine/fuel system he has. The picture I posted is for an EA82T A.K.A. MPFI fuel system. If Ben means his DL-- it will have SPFI. The temp sensor in the SPFI will be the pig tailed sensor in the goose neck, they arely have contact problems as the contacts are enclosed/sealed in the connector. People corn-fuse (sic) the connector problem. The MPFI unit sits back and burried in the heat / jungle, the connector cap heat cracks and water gets in. This is what leads to the problem.

most yank da lump (pull the engine) Here's a start for ya Hope it helps Head Gasket repl w/part numbers

come on Porky, your slippin' where's the pict?? j/k I do not know which parts need changing but here is what you are up against

Legacy777 and Jamal have you covered. Jamal that excellent write up needs added to the USRM. I would just like to add that there is another factory 6 CD changer available that might fit your bill. Shown here in a 1997 OB.