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Thanks Ed no select monitor is available at this time. I wish we had access to one. I wish Dave or I would have had the foresight to record these hellaisous noises. Carbon deposits could maybe be responsible for some missing rough running ect. But sounds that make one think the rod bearings went south... well ??? Dave is no stranger to using the loud pedal -- if you get my drift - doubt any deposits are left now. :^) I forgot to take my stethoscope but the long screwdriver handle in the ear trick showed more noise toward the rear of the engine. I am hoping the oil pressure relief valve was sticking from varnish or the same reasons Keith suggests the carbon deposits, thus allowing the oil pressure to drop and the collapsed lifters causing the noise and not allowing cylinders to fire. Maybe the MMO and the oil changes are going to solve (dissolve) the problem. Well "Bomerang" you gonna kick out the skinny? My utmost thanks to all that have given time and thought -- to this conundrum.

Thanks for the reply 91Loyale, I knew of the flex plate problem and examined it concisely when we had it off to service the breather cover. It showed no problems. As always I thank you for your expertise and time.

Thanks for all the replies, ideas, and help guys. I will make a feeble attempt at answering some questions left standing. Spark knock, well anything is possible but my ear was 5" from the oil pan while the car was on the lift, and if this is spark knock, well then I don't know what spark knock is. (Btw I drive several turbo Subes and have heard some nasty knocking from many causes.) The corrosion was located on the underside, the engine compartment was fairly clean and not rusted. Grounds all looked normal. Again the rust was localized. Interior is unmarked and free of water stains. Inside the engine is very clean as mentioned. Oil pan rotted outside in. Not a diamond coil pack but two bad ones in a row? Engine check light has never come on. Idler pulleys felt / sounded normal the noise is mid/rear engine based. He drove it for 350 miles with no problem. I must say thanks again and keep'em coming. Possibly Dave will correct some of my misgivings.

Sir, I thank you kindly for your response, sir. But you say "I wonder if it's ignition related - having to do with the Mass Air Flow sensor perhaps." My understanding of the MAF is to tell the ECU how much air is entering the engine upon which it controls fuel delivered. not ignition / timing or? Second: I have never seen MAF or ignition problems to cause the clacking and whacking issues I describe. As mentioned I do appreciate your insight. If you would... please explain your theory as to enlighten me.

As you say "Anyway its so moist that if i dont use the car for a week it will not start trouble free, just moist no CEL though just runs very rough but after 2 to 4 minutes it will be fine." I think I'd get some new (from Subaru) sparking plug wires. You don't need this beast challenging the battery any further in those temps. Sounds like all your other bases (aside from your butt) are covered. As the Aussies say 'ere's gid onya mate!

Fill yer mug with your favorite brew, sit back and read this long winded tale of Woe. As you can see by my number of posts I am not new to the Su Bar of Ru. Having owned dozens and currently have models ranging from gen 1 Brats, turbo Legs through a 6cyl VDC. I do all my own maintenance / repair work. I am by no means an expert but on the same page know which end of a ratchet clicks. Another member here (davebugs) needed an AWD sedan for his GF's son. Being an auction frequent, he found a likely candidate in the form of a 94 Legacy 2.2 auto. Two owner car with only 66 Kmi. Dave drove the car for some 350 trouble free miles before we started work. PLEASE remember this. Topside rust -not bad Floor pans underside ect - very nice!! (Dave has a lift in his shop so we got up close and personal when he brought the car home.) BUT - ya knew there had to be a BUT.... The entire non undercoated bits -> all suspension pieces, all exposed bolt heads, exhaust, brakes Looked like the car had been sprayed continually with brackish saltwater.!!! Case in point - lower control arm rotted through in sections as large as the palm of my hand!! Oil pan rusted on the exterior to the point a screw driver easily punched through. Bolt heads that normally require a 14 mm socket (once the rust was chiseled off) would accept a 7/16" socket - yes 7/16" - that folks is real close to an 11 mm socket!! Long story longer. Dave wanted the car to be reliable (kid's first car and he lives in the PA snowbelt), Needing an oil pan, timing belts ect. we set forth and "yank da lump". Aside from the aforementioned bolt heads and the block oxidation welded to the tranny , all went well. Used a small bead of RTV on the replacement oil pan, knowing the problems too much goo could yield. Same with the rear breather plate. Timing belt and one idler pulley - no problem.. Remember 66 kmi, all evidence supports this low mileage - rust no doubt from sitting, pedal rubber ect. Did not remove cam covers as things looked normal Subaru clean on the inside. Stuffed da lump back in place, checking the torque converter position before we did. All went reasonably well. Read no issues. Changed oil 5w 30 and a pint of MMO (ambient temp in the low 40's F) Changed plugs, air filter, fuel filter, drive belts. Fire that muther up, some HLA noise - very minimal.. Normal power, no real strange noises. Quieted down to a sewing machine smooth in just a few miles - normal -right? Good to go, we thought!! Dave takes the car on a maiden voyage of some 30 miles. Slowing on an uphill grade for a statie's red-light special (some other guy's problem) He gently gets back on the long pedal when........ The engines starts missing terribly, "clacking" noises to raise the dead are heard, he barely clears the hill then basically drifts to a parking lot. No oil pressure light is seen on. (it does work when the key is turned on) Calls me on his cell and says -listen to this ----> The clacking is deafening. Even over a cell phone it sounds like the engine has no oil in it!! Obviously the first thing Dave did was check it, it was fine, right on the full mark no foam , no milkshake - normal smell color ect. He babies the car home after a cool down, still missing and clacking. He says the temp gauge never went beyond half way. I show up the next morning. When he starts it on the lift, the underside noises are louder than the top. Rod bearing like??? Serious business, these bottom ends are bullet proof, I think but... It's whackin like the rod will punch through any time. Thinking maybe the oil is too thin?? We change it to 20w/50 with a new filter. Nothing in the drained oil shows signs of degradation. - no metal flakes, chips ect.. Fire it up - the miss is gone, the whackin' and clackin' now are much less prevalent but still there.. We plumb in a temp oil pressure gauge -60 PSI at idle all is normal. Decide to drive to a real Subaru mechanic and have him listen. Yep, when we get there, it's back to Subaru sewing machine smooth - not a noise. We all know - rod bearings do not fix them selves. I think maybe some crud got into a oil passage, the lifters collapsed the collapsed lifters caused some cylinders to not make the trip and thus the power loss and missing.???? We drive around a bit and head back to Dave's shop. About a quarter mile from the garage - whoop dar it is again. Clackin and a whackin', stumblin' and a grumblin'. Barely make it on the lift. We're scratchin' our beans like we have a bad case of lice. In a matter of minutes the engine smoothes out again and sounds normal. The above scenario has now taken place several more times. Dave changed the coil pack to see if it would cure the miss, it did for a short time. The next few times it happens, little sit and it's miraculously healed. Oil passages don't clear when sitting, but oil pump pressure relief valves can stick. Going back to the collapsed lifter theory. Maybe the oil pressure falls to say 10 PSI -keeps the light off but does not keep the lifters pumped. What's next? Add a permanent oil pressure gauge and see if this is the case. Why did Dave have no issues before we did the work? What could we have done to cause this. Engine was on a stand, down side up, for the pan replacement. Too late ... Dave gave the car to the kid yesterday. It happened to them coming back from getting the title changed. Little sit--> fixed. We nicknamed it "Boomerang" cause we know it will come back. I thank you very kindly for wasting a few precious minutes of your life reading this. If you have any words of wisdom, in agreement or otherwise please offer them up. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Us twits and our wits and are at an end here. (you may now go drain the processed beverage)

I have the same car. VNRS : Very Nice Rare Sedan. The VSS #2 (vehicle speed sensor) is located in the speedometer head unit. If the speedometer cable binds due to lack of lube it could cause the noise and loss of the VSS #2 signal. The other VSS (#1) is located on the tail shaft of the tranny. Note to the Porcupine73: -- this is a turbo. We both know these are also called SS, (Sport Sedan) (if it's not a wagon) it also should have the viscous limited splip rear end. Lots of good info can also be found at http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ They specialize in this gen Legacy. Best mod you can do aside from an IC is free up the entire exhaust from the turbo back. Hope this helps here's mine

the screw sits in a vertical position only the slot is visible in the recess look behind where the turbo plenum (says "Subaru Turbo" on it) enters the intake under the plastic tube for the PCV lines

I currently own three T-Legs they are special cars and yield good reliable power with a few mods. We here center more on the NA Legs in general. Please have a look around this forum They specialize in go fast Gen I, II Legs http://bbs.legacycentral.org/

Monsta - thanks for the encouragement. The 4" I have is SS. Too heavy for me to install and my truck's weight tore the lift out of the ground at my local exhaust shop :^0 Might try a Ford dealer when I take it in for it's 10 k service. Gavity here's a link for doing some research if you want http://forums.pickuptruck.com/ubbthreads.php

replace the PCV valve with a Subaru unit (only) sounds like it's building crank case pressure. hope this helps

WAG I PCV valve spring is weak, seals at idle then releases as vacuum drops allows air into intake manifold. Test - place small piece of hose with bolt / plug on PCV valve. WAG II PBB (Power Brake Booster) is leaking when manifold pressure rises (vacuum drops) Same test as above. Gotta hate this type problem!! Can you put the orig. HiCrappy back on to see if it's a carb or engine problem. Have to back up and see what caused it. Hope something helps.

Brian, small world, she looks like one of my T-wagons (will get a picture this week) sans the RS wheels. They are on my SS. Nice lookin' ride!! Funny how all three of my T-Legs sound like yours. For some strange reason the rear mufflers all fell off right after I got them?????** On my SS I added a Flowtech resonated twin tip - mellows the rumble just a bit. ~ 35 clams **Well maybe the sawzall has something to do with it??

07 F250 PSD only change would be to a 4" dia turbo back exhaust (I have it just don't have it installed.)

Durania, this post was from a mail group not this forum thus no warning. Our boy does have some "issues" do not pursue this any further or the post will be closed. As for a semi-answer I would up grade the brakes (from a turbo wagon maybe) before the attempted tow job. Or get a trailer with electric brakes and a Prodigy brake controler.

I agree to dis-agree "Based on the above posted possiblity of partially blocked passage ways, heavier oil would only make it worse." The low viscosity oil will flow past your worn main bearing easier lowering the pressure. The somewhat thicker oil will build more pressure to push the oil through the passages. Check for a back flow valve in your oil filter "In some cases with the tight tolerances that are held on modern engines you can begin to starve the bearings at low RPM and with modern high compression you are often running awefully close to detonation." I doubt your 205 kmi engine has these tolerences or the high comp. (High comp + high vis oil => detonation?? why because the rings seal better??) Good luck -> many miles of smiles unsubscribe

Hi Keith, First shot would be a change to Castrol 20w50 If you need some info on the oil pressure mount/thread size, location ect. try this post Oil Pressure sender

There could be a problem with the drive for the speed sensor. (VSS 2) You can test this with a cordless drill. Pull the sensor and spin the drive with the drill. If the speedo registers - sorry, diff may need yanked. The nylon gear on the output shaft may be stripped. Sure hope I'm wrong. My OB has this problem as I type. It did what you describe before it went toast totally.

In my rush to get things ready for our vacation, I failed to notice the pretty half's VDC would need inspected while we were away (gone for about 2 months). Shame on me!! Upon my return, I find the battery voltage had fallen to an extreme level. I used my smart charger and it came back to life - no problem. So I went to get it inspected BUT the OBD II brain had died as a result of the low voltage. It needs to be driven X number of drive cycles to reset itself. Result - failed inspection. So we have to drive an un-inspected vehicle for 150 miles? So sayth the inpsection guy?? I had to pay for the inspection and only get one more "free" test. I have no doubt that the fuzz could be talked out of a ticket as we have the paper work. But getting stopped by dacoppers is still no phun!! I have a scan tool, will it tell me when the pooter is ready for testing?? Let this be a lesson to those who's brain is as lame as mine. Storing a car for the winter ect, you should keep a float charger on the battery. Reducing a battery to this state of charge can kill it or shorten it's life dramaticly.

The arm is held to the tapered shaft via a nut. The shaft is tapered and serated to mate with the wiper arm. Lift the cover at the bottom of the arm and see if the nut is loose or wants tightening. If you operate the wipers with the cover raised if this is the problem you will see the shaft (nut) rotate and the arm not moving. Hope this is the problem.

Give these folks a call (their website is lame when it comes to Brat parts) http://www.millsupply.com/

My first shot would be the AAV (Aux. Air Valve) This is located on top of the goose neck (upper rad hose connection) Make sure the electrical connection is not compromised by corrosion or looseness.

I have changed the oil in the pretty half's VDC many times. (the splash gaurd it a pain) When you fill the filter as I always do, fill it about three times. The filter element absorbs the oil. I start this proceedure before I pull the drain plug. Second fill when I come up for air after removing the splash pan and drain plug. Third right before I remove /instal the filter. I believe you will be amazed at the "we'd the oil go I just put in there" look to the filter. I have never had any noise on the first start. It is a good idea to change the oil after warming the car for several reasons, one being the fast idle period is prevented.

" Is this a dodgy alt? " Yes it is. "Can you just replace the diode bridge in the Alt?" Yes, but this sounds more like worn brushes.

Please have a look at this link Rear wheel well rust fix