Skip

In the bed of the girl, is an 14" electronic bandsaw w/stand a tool bag, a tool box and an antique drill press (about 50#) Plus the fiberglass bed cap. The trailer is 0.25" steel diamond plate (read heavy), superwinch and battery mounted in black box, sled weighs about two hundred I guess. Who says they can't haul nuttin' ???

I'm very rusty in reference to the EA82T so please forgive any mis - information. but the timing on this engine can only be set when 1) The idlle switch is on (this is located in the TPS) and 2) the green connectors are connected Since you mention a throttle on problem also I would look into testing the TPS. Hope this helps. Note: when using the search function you must use four or more letter words. With three letter words use the wild card * e.g. TPS*

I used the old KISS principle to make my ignition timing adjustable from the cockpit. A manual choke cable. The one I choose has a "turn to lock" feature found on the British A series engines. I mounted a "L" bracket around the dizzy and connected the cable to it. I did sand the circumference of the shaft a bit to allow it to rotated more freely.

Porc, since he's not buying into the FLF (Fuel Line Freeze) another critical component is the CTS

sounds like fuel line freeze up to me. enough gas gets through to start then drops off to a dribble line from the pump got cold enough for icing while it sat in the driveway. What was the temp outside when this happened? -20 or so? (deg C)

AH PAM it all! I'm with Monsta a can of PAM does wonders on them. Shoot the mudflaps and prevent the chunks there to. Snow shovel, boots ect ,,, have at it. Here's one -- your sat. dish, snow just slides off!! I sound like a PAM commericial don't I??

Hey thanks Porc, as many times as I have posted that picture you are the first to mention this. Big Ol' Thanks as that 'splains why it failed. (BTWI did not do the belt change, the damage is why I got the car cheap)

I was "told" they felt fine, when the belt was done approx 30 Kmi before this happened Two heads with valve problems later, the 100 GWs looks pretty cheap. Your call

Welcome aboard the USMB in the box below the posts labeled "Forum Jump" You can go to the classified section to save you the trouble here is the link Hope this helps Subaru stuff for sale

That is a good deal. Just make sure the bracket is well grounded (as mentioned) when testing. This power transistor uses the ground in doing it's amplification of the ECU signal.

Sir Loyale, this part is also know as the "ignition ampilifier" Is this the part you bought four of for four dollars?

I would like to add if I may be so bold? If you choose to have the flywheel surfaced. Make sure the machine shop you use knows how to turn a Subaru flywheel. "????? " you say. Notice the flywheel I am getting ready to turn in the shot below. The "step" between the disc surface and where the pressure plate mounts must be maintained to factory specs.. Too large -> clutch slip Too small -> clutch not dis-engaging e.g.: -> = (may result in) Hope this helps, please excuse my intrusion if this is common knowledge.

good luck these guys have your bases covered I'll step out now as my suggs are all poor ones it seems. Sure hope you get it fixed. pin hole sealed with silicone - come on

I do not want to burst anyone's bubble - Plexiglas or not But I work with a lot of "plexi" in the sign industry. To form a sheet as large as you are talking takes an oven. Any disproportionate heating as with a high temp heat gun will cause waves as the portion not being heated will cool quickly. Sk'o has the right idea - buy it formed and make it fit. If it is plexi do NOT use a jig saw to cut it. A band saw is a must. Also If you have to drill it there are special bits for plexi. Now if you want to get serious I recco polycarbonate (some people wrongly refer to this as "lexan" all "lex" is polycarb but all polycarb is not lexan - GE trade name) Polycarb when bent cold will retain the bend - plexi just breaks. Plus polycarb is shatter resistant. Good luck guys by all means give it a try. Don't know what plexi or polycarb is selling for now but me bets it ain't cheap.

OB99W.. is it possible that the switching circuit pulling the non yellow wire to ground (Triac, SCR ect) is looking for an impedance (coil) and not pure resistance? Could a pure resistance hurt the board? Why not stick a straight pin through the wire and clip to it? Drop of silicone will fix the breech.

"Anybody with a good tip for this job they'd like to share?" 1) Pull the front wheels I believe you will see access holes for the ratchet extensions there. 2) Be very careful removing the boots, twist and pull. Hope this helps.

thanks to robb1

Should the injector be hooked up and back probed? Yes, The older systems (EA82T) had +12 Vdc fed to the injectors through the dropping resistors. The ECU provided the ground side of the control circuit. I don't know if the EJ series works his way. If this is the case?? you should see approx 8- 12 Vdc on one side of the injector with the key on. OB99W - knows his stuff maybe he'll chime in.

your scope should have an "auto" setting for trace voltage? It will be between 5 an 14 Vdc Yes the igniton will have to be on and you should have one of these by now?

I' hoping your scope is dual trace. I'd like to see one trace of the O-scope on the cam sensor the other trace on an injector They should be in sink. Then the crank and the ignitor same sink BTW wet plugs have a problem firing somertimes. Maybe your ECU has taken a powder for some reason.

After you get to the valve measure the resistance of the solenoid coil. It should be around 35 ohms IF it reads infinite (open) -> You have your problem. These solenoids have been a bane of all series Subaru engines. I replaced mine with a Honda version of the same valve. Seems to be a better made part. (search the old gen forum for "purge") I will try and find a picture of where I mounted mine if you are interested.

Gregg, good luck on this one " I can't wait to get home and actually see the purge control valve with my own two eyes" You might see it but getting to it to replace it. That is another bunch of bannanas. OB99W is spot on when he says "Right beneath the cylinder #3 portion of the intake manifold." When mine went bad, I left the old one in place and replumbed a new one mounted on top of the manifold.

Cougar is right as usual. These are not wired like an old string of Xmas lights. My thought, usually wrong, is that the two sides of each lamp are tied to the ill. control unit. Then using full battery voltage to one leg of the lamp, the ill. control adjusts the brightness by controlling the ground or negative side. A system like this could get it's panties in a bunch if one side was grounded or saw ground through a lamp filament. A lot of the Subaru el. systems are negative side controlled.

well done sir, thanks for the update

lest we forget my "Tri-mutation" started life as a "Tri-muter" also from Pop Mech Yea maybe we should forget it