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Google can be a good source for these. I just tried rebuildable autos Many many hits.

Most idle issues can be traced to the IAC valve. The ECU controls this valve and when it gets gummed up you can get what you got. I did a search in the New Gen section and turned this link for you (if you try a search put idle air control in quotes) Hope this helps. Cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve

Yup, Fred Rogers is from your town Correction: was http://www.cnn.com/2003/SHOWBIZ/TV/02/27/rogers.obit/ same for Rolling Rock Beer

If you follow the SFC** rule you might drive it home. Take a good battery with you. The fuel pump control is a likely target. ** Spark Fuel Compression

Sorry mate, like GD says -- wrong choice Here is what I did and it's still a looser, it is all custom stuff. (87 GL turbo 5 speed 4wd) Please email me if you have any questions.

As Craig says. Look under the parcel shelf on the pass. side. Diag. connectors and all are located there.

Like GD said, the below is "custom stuff" but even with all this (87 GL turbo 5 speed) she's still a toad. My 94 GT Leg wagon (read heavy) with a NA EJ22 will run circles around it. Feel free to PM me with questions.

Mwatt, You are correct, the strut is fully extended and limits the downward travel. I always keep a floor jack under the hub to ease the removal of the bolts which you speak. Hope this helps. BTW As I see you have read. The use of a "hub tamer" does not require removing the hub. and having a neighbor that's the shop foreman at a Subaru dealer is a major bonus!!! Although you will not be doing this when you remove the hub. When removing the top of the spring sometimes called the hat you need to compress the spring slightly.

Connie, I am going to put my check mark next to another corroded connector. This being the one on the fusible link to the alt. The link may be good but the connection to the wire feeding it can give problems. The problem starts with some corrosion causing resistance, this in turn causes heat, the spring clip (spade connector) looses it's temper - so to speak. "Springyness" to those technical sorts. Which in turn causes more resistance and dah dah dah. Just something I've seem more than once hope it helps. BTW Is Melis's XT6 a gray color?

also check the check ball at the bottom of the well. it is the one way valve that prevents the pressure from returning to the bowl.

-15C = 5 deg F like it was last night move south old man - is what I keep telling myself

Sounds as if the center case is binding. This will result if your tires are not matched. Check all four for the same - size, brand, and pressure. This can also happen if you use the 4wd on surfaces that provide too much traction. To relieve the bind select reverse and back up for twenty feet or so. Hope this helps.

Sorry whatshe but there are back vents under the front seats. You are correct about the wagon interior volume. I also drive wagons, primarily solo and a trick I use is a piece of visqueen (heavy clear plastic) draped over a rope strung between the rear cloths hangers. I also plug the rear vents with aluminum foil. She gets toasty in no time. I also hate the cold. Cold for me is below 80 deg F These days of teen temps are dapits.

T.C., Please correct me if I am mistaken. It is my recollection that the headlamp lighting circuit is a ground control system. e.g. The headlamp's common terminal is provided positive battery voltage by the headlight relay(s). The filament that is to be illuminated is provided a ground by the hi/lo switch in the turn stalk. If this is the case attaching the black/yellow wire to the low beam wire would eliminate the positive voltage to the coil/"ON" lamp. Two grounds do not a circuit make or sumtin like that?

I am sure any savoy Suby tech would see this right away. BUT To the uninitiated of us reading all we can to get their "head around" a T-belt replacement. Just be care full - as there is a jungle (of mis-information) out there. link to below art. Click here for the right picture

I am sorry Misled, but you have been misled. Blocking off the EGR port will not fix your problem, if the EGR solenoid is to blame for the CEL. Operative word - solenoid. If it shows thirty four - no need to panic. These are readily available at any boneyard as late 80's Hondas and 'Yotas all have them. I am corn fused by all the hoop -la over this solenoid. (or the purge control solenoid for that matter) FHI's choice for the OEM solenoid was not the best but Honda and Toyota got it right. I have replaced many over my years. You may need to cut and splice the connector but it's bench work. A lot easier than fabin' a block off plate and gasket. If you go bone-yardin' for one look at the firewall in some Hondas - a large black plastic box has three or four in it. Hope this helps, nice score sure looks clean. As for the spark plug issue, no they should all be the same. Sounds like you may have some bad threads. It must seat on the head to seal. A helicoil may be needed.

I thank Tiny for the explaination I believe this is what he meant? The problem with my diagram is any time the key is on and the button is depressed the aux lights will be on. Hope this helps

I still like the three way valve substituted for the solenoids as suggested in the second post. One position 2WD other 4WD But "I am not so much interested in making a whole setup." Good luck

They came with rubber blocks to lock them into the stake pockets on p/u truck beds seen here http://www.accessconnect.com/prodpage13.htm I like the light weight aspect, with the front wheel castor shown in my post it is great for moving things by hand around the shed ect. I also have a tailer moving dolly. I'm a one man band so lite is good.

Mike, start with a test light that you know works. (or I like to use an old horn - I stuff it in and rags in a plastic coffee can, this way the amount of juice available at a given test point is proportional to the volume the horn makes) I digress One lead to the neg. bat terminal other probe in fusible link box, both sides of the links. All should show power - both sides. If good there pull the fuse box down and probe there, it's a larger dia. white wire (this feeds the main components, another black with white is also a feed wire.) Then the fuses these wires feed. If you get this far the big connection to the ignition switch may be the culprit. Hope this helps some.

Thanks, it also saves Turnpike tolls in my area. The tie down loops in the corners help hold loads and hold the deck down. (shown after it had been home for some time)

Cookie, I bought the same trailer to haul my Brat gokart After needing to do some other hauling I came up with this This is the orig post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56702&highlight=trailer

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Doug, the problem as noted is with the #2 speed sensor. This unit is spun by a gear in the front differenial. A complete summary can be seen in this post, it has pictures of where it is located and a description of it's operating system. VSS#2 details and problems The sensor may be bad, the wiring may be bad or, as is my case, the gear driving it could be bad. It is a Hall effect switch -> sends pluses to the ECU and TCU. The pulse rate varries with vehicle speed. - the car will drive without it as the brain boxes use VSS#1 as a back up. At the bottom of this page are other links to this problem. Hope this helps

Hi John, thanks for the update. I to am going to get one, a guy has one for sale that is close to my residence. Please do post when you find the way to keep it from auto shut down. I have a problem with that feature on a gauge that is used to monitor so many outputs. Maybe Nipper or one of the other users will explain.