NuclearBacon

one million dollars..... so that aside...... any ideas?? can i go to my local machine shop to work on the heads? or do they not do subaru...

there it was.... sitting in the junkyard... sitting with 104,000 miles.... pushbutton 4WD ..... and gen 3 heads.... when i pulled them, they both had hairline cracks between the ports. my question is where could i take these to get completly re-worked? 3 angle valve job, perhaps sodium filled valves, something like that. i've heard of delta cams, and that CCR place on the forums front, but does anyone have experience with a complete rebuild for the heads? i thought it would be a cool thing to have for my future shortblock thanks!

SOLVED*********************SOLVED I instructed the helper to push on the brakes once per time and then tell me when they were down....instead.... they were to pump and pump and pump until the pedal felt FIRM... THEN say "down" and i proceed to bleed ...... Then i close the screw and they pump pump pump and say "down" and i loosen into the jar and tighten... they release.... repeat.... Brakes are solid now.... And i am learning!! woohoo!

Correct correct correct... Getting a new driveshaft On Turkey Day. Thanks!!!!!!!!

so i bled the brakes as it said in the manual, (keep in mind 4 brand new brake calipers) Have my helper sit in the car he pushes down, i open the bleeder bolt into my bleeder jar, then i close the bleeder nut, and he releases the brake pedal, he pushes down on the brake pedal, and with pressure on the pedal, i release the bolt, ect ect ect..... until theres just fluid coming out, with no air bubbles. went all the way around the car in the correct order. but now the pedal still falls to the floor, but after a solid pump, i get some pushing back, but then if i stop again, it goes to the floor.... do i bleed them AGAIN??? did i need to do something at the master cylinder??? i made sure i kept fluid in the master cylinder while i did it, and closed it every time before starting the helper procedure again... master cylinder is full of fluid......

Two days ago i was driving along and when i let off of the gas, there was a TERRIBLE vibration coming from the back of the car..... or it feels like the back of the car.... on acceleration it feels... almost normal... brand new caliper, brand new pad, and the wheel free spins and doesnt move when i put my hands at the 12 and 6 positions and rock back and forth, and when i put my hands at the 3 and 9 positions and rock back and forth. is that a wheel bearing? what the crap?? its ALMOST undrivable at this point... it vibrates something fierce..... but i could get it somewhere if need be..... whats going on?

cool! neat writeup! thanks!

I just checked the Service manual - section 4-4 page 52 Front Left Rear Right Front Right Rear Left Right from the horses mouth (horse = subaru, mouth = book)

GLAD I ASKED!!!! thank you!!!!

Whew! ALL NEW CALIPERS all the way around! woohoo!!!! so now i need to bleed the brakes.... I saw RR - LR - RF - LF is this correct? and ive bled the brakes on my legacy once.... but that was a while ago... i got one of those little hand pump guys at harborfreight (bottle with tube) but im just not sure when to have my buddy pump and when i unscrew and screw back in ect.... just for a refresher (searched and found http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/how_to/4213448.html ) thanks!

did it... well almost... i bought all new calipers new new 4...... with new pads... whats the easiest way to flush the system?

I was curious if anyone had experience or knew of the normal operating temperatures, and extremes (high and low) for: Upper Radiator Hose Lower Radiator Hose Front Transmission / Differential Rear Differential Brake Calipers Brake Rotors I'm putting together an Excel Sheet for my Rally Car and i'd like to know where each of these are so i can see where i'm running cool and where i'm running hot, where i should be looking for problems, ect... Thanks!!! i'll post my Excel sheet when i gather the correct temps (Low, Normal, Too Hot)

wow! i guess you guys really want these.... ok, so give me some color combinations you'd like to see... and i'll get my buddy to put them together... sweeeeet!

first me spanking some WRX's and STi's... Then The design I'm going to put something together at cafe-press... maybe make a few more designs...... different colors ect.... let me know what you think!!!!!!

... on a 5 speed

Theres one that a lady in town has, full of crap... No idea on the year (havent talked to her yet), its a GL 4WD, push button 4WD, fog lights, squarish headlights, 2 door with a hatch... 12 inch alloys. freakin crazy.... Teach me O Wise ones......

ok good to know... thank you for the info! bump meself

now that you mentioned rust, when I changed the pads a little while back i noticed quite a bit of rust looking stuff around the calipers, didnt think much of it, but that could be a possibility of a problem..... couldn't it?? i'll look into the rebuild kit, and i need to get all the wheels off..... see how badly each one is... take some pictures... thanks for the advice!

think it would be better to rebuild the 275,000 mile brakes then just buying new calipers?? im not sure how many of them i need... but it would save me a bit of hassle down the road yeah?

So i've never had to replace the whole caliper and i was curious about the symptoms of needed new ones..... Right now it seems like i can never get the brake caliper to recess correctly (i know it twists, and the correct want to twist in) the seals around the part that twists looks pretty bad, on one its almost gone, and when i put the caliper with the brake pads inside, it pinches down on the wheels really bad, to the point when the wheel is off of the ground and i turn it by hand... it wont free roll. could this be something else putting un-necessary pressure on the system or something? or do i need to just replace the calipers and it'll take car of my problem... curious ...and thanks!

http://www.thunder-drift.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12

Hello RallyX's!!!! Short and sweet. Rally X. Thunderhill Park, just outside Chico, California Saturday, August 18th. More info to follow!!!!

im so getting those "selective yellow" lights. its gunna be rockin

wow, that guy LOVES his lights!!! some people have die hard hobbies...and that guy loves LIGHTS!!!! great article! i think i'll be ordering my H3's from him! thanks!

Ever since i got my FIRSt subaru, and before that!!!! on every vehicle ive owned, i've wanted a set of yellow fog lights. I love the look. Finding them is a completly different task. in my buddies 2.5rs, he ALSO wanted yellows, so we got some PIAA's that claimed to be yellow... but when looking at the car with them on.... you could MAYBE see a little bit of a yellow tint, they weren't yellow.... I understand the color temprature chart, and how the 2500k is probably the yellow i want.... then i saw these online... http://www.autotoys.com/x/catalog/PIAA__H3_ION_CRYSTAL_YELLOW_GREAT_FOR_FOG___BEST_13555_p_935.html Wondered.... those LOOK yellow, but are they??? then i saw THIS: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yellow-HID-CONVERSION-KIT-3000K-H1-H4-H11-H3-H7-H10-FOG_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36476QQihZ016QQitemZ260145254016QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Any ideas??? i just want a yellow yellow yellow light. I would like to just purchase the H3 bulb, or if theres some other clever thing people have come up with. these would be going in my XT6 with existing fog lights, but i'd also like to get a set of hella's in yellow for my legacy, and soon for my GL-10. thank you!!!!!!!!