bgd73

It is ground or charge and perfectly dirty (harmless). I had an 87 turn blue after simply cleaning alternator, from yellow. If old coil hangs onto "clean" volt changes, it was obviously good. In extreme circumstances electrically, the main grounds aren't gaining enough dispersal and can do the same. Most often, not always, the coil either works or it doesn't. The "yellow" requires a damn near perfectly dirty electrical problem. Also changing plugs to , say, a bosch platinum helped a newer soob I run. Dirty flocks to the heat of the grounding plug (spark), It must be gathering someplace stagnite....sometimes never to leave the system, harmlessly. I even got "strange" advice to use the rear defrost a little more often, something to do with electrical cleaning due to its resistance needed to get warm, literally taking some invisible things out the window:cool: .

Even porsche gave up the dual carbs a looooong time ago on a 4cyl boxer. Upon some reading, there was absolutely *zero* benefit to this setup, and even hindered low-end..The benefits of an single intake achieving the same cfm, better tuned and balanced for the four cylinders to stay smooth is much better. Unless your creating a conversation piece, Try a better injection on say a spider intake, etc. Would love to hear one run, it would no doubt sound interesting.

Uhhh, I don't mess with factory convertors. The "resonator" some kind of mispelling? My soob tech book has catalytic convertor and sound resignator following after the Y pipe. I'm just gonna go with it. It worked on a v8, it'll work on a little soob .

I have a common leak (as usual) near the flange at end of y pipe.The sound resignator is bad. I have customed it before my recent soob, but it let out a pop like a rally car after all was said and done, good and sealed, between every gear, engine hot or cold. I chose to go straight pipe at the time, to replace it cheaply. So , I thought of this idea (to stop the rally car sound). A cheap glass pack after the flange to take high temps,initial sound, then pipe back to muffler. It would be in the middle of exhaust system, replacing that sound resignator (mysteriously collects weight and looks clean at the same time, eventually getting so hot something melts in there..) I did this on a v8, exactly, and it was so quiet , it whistled out the exhaust pipe! I'm hopin a mini-version on my soob would attempt the same.Anybody done similar? Of course it would all be the two inch OEM setup, etc.

85sub4wd: No major difference needs a cold air intake, it is, dare i say.. Phenomenal. got 90hp?

A functioning EGR on a soob 1.8 is a bad one, regardless of mileage. If car has low mileage, what gets recycled is even hotter(clean burn is a very hot fast one), as miles increase, it turns to a dirty engine killer, and hangs on to inefficient heat going through intake, longer with deposits built up. After blocking off with home-made metal gasket, it still stays hot towards intake like a copper pipe heatsink, use the thickest piece of aluminum you can handle to put in between for gasket, it helps a bit more ... Fuel mileage most definately goes up, as well as thermal ambience where an engine really needs it to be cool,before combustion chambers rapid expansion ,the intake.(more cool air, more compression due to expansion, cleaner burn... Why EGR at all ????) Not to mention, anyone notice the flow is upside down on a boxer? heat is forced down, you gain this flow correctly, its just like having a different engine from start to cruising.

Most deifinately go for grounds, battery, alternator. start with the biggest. I had 87 with 4 headlights that did this. Upon changing the battery, there was an improvement, and also the alternator had a strange gum in it (not oil) that after cleaning, was the biggest improvement(take some fine grit sandpaper to the core and shell, and check there is two rows of brushes in the back cover of alternator, mine was running with just one for years!) then the headlights were very bright.

It is oem, off the showroom floor on a wagon. The brand name is yakima. Can't find it anywhere, unless on another old wagon factory, or close to the time when you could buy that as an option.Must be a few in junk yards..... so i posted.There are the parallel to the car setups on many more wagons, they will work too, with correct angles on sedan, but the actual rails you see on wagons (may be just two in the middle) are the very rails holding the rack on my setup.Cheap mod for something that has been a hassle for sedans

This rack came off a junked loyale wagon. Same angle and roof design as the sedan. If you spot one, drill the rivets out and it fits perfectly on loyale sedans too! I recommend larger aluminum rivets than the same size oem. The steel "owns" the larger aluminum rivet and stays strong and tight, rust free. Add a bit of silicone to top of rivets, wallah! all done.

Thanks. The speedo is definately off on the 93. I got pulled over for 7mph off already.The 87 went right into 110+ (didn't do that speed for long!). The 93 has a tach that stays good.After starting to pass just about everybody on highway in a few hundred rpm change, i keep my hand on shifter for long periods of highway time. It seems as tho I'm getting a harder thump, not a faster one from it.Tach verifies my intuition. It must drift off too......unless tires really are stretching taller, they seem to have squishy sidewalls.Whatever is changing speed without rpm increase must be tires, as it is the most pliable, forgiving point.It would prove my thoughts that 13inch tires would eventually explode over 100mph for long time:) (regardless of brand!)

I have never taken a loyale transmission apart, I am curious to find someone who has. This is my bewildermant: I go on long trips in my old soob (93 Loyale). The 5th gear seems to get taller the longer the trip and just stays there from there on afterward. I'd swear that car at 4000 rpm is now doing 100mph even. I had a 1987 DL in which the results were the same.70mph was a low 3250rpm, and each 100 rpms after are really noticably gaining a ratio of speed incredibly. When I first got either one of these soobs, the fifth gear was an average 55mph to put around in at 3250 rpm! Is the fifth gear a top end twist that kicks in tighter towards a straight 1:1? Please don't laugh, it truly happened to me.Oh, and my clutch wasn't slipping, now gripping. I even thought of tires stretching due to warming up.I threw that theory out when I put rather expensive low profile BF Goodrich performance tires on... Thanks for realistic reply.

91loyale: very good point. I found tires of 13 inch that match 14 inch 60 series tread will do high speed for a very long time. Depending on brand and how measured, 185/75/13 and up do quite well.

93 loyale- 5spd 2wd 110 miles, 1hr 7 minutes. With two toll booths in between.... Hard tellin. I was just following the car in front of me!:cool:

Do these two things interact? The clock was burnt (no loose contacts, outright little fire , all done !) Upon removing clock, I blew clock fuse and radio quit. Radio fuse is still good. Replaced clock fuse and radio now works. I pull radio fuse, radio still quits.It needs both. The radio's wiring has been changed. 35+ ft to make true 4 channel speaker setup. The original wiring with shared grounds was an electronics tragedy waiting to happen(Of course it did...Twice.Including the clock.) Just another shared ground to ignore? There's two fuses of safety rather than one Also, any cool replacements for the clock area? I put in oil guage that lit up when lights were on. I was asked more than once if it was a turbo guage.

A bigger condensor ought to be mentioned before conversion to 134a , if it is truly a problem to cool. I will try newer OEM without hacking only if i get a reply that someone's loyale AC works just fine with 134a and oem condensor

snowman: Would the a/c condensor from legacy bolt up too? if so, is it stronger or better in any way than loyales?

hey thanks. i really needed condensor for a/c, the original design is a tragedy waiting to happen here(salty roads, frigid temps),The oem original died in less than 5 years from new with a perfect slow leak that made car a suicide machine. I was curious to find an entirely different combination cheaply. the original radiator is actually rugged.I did convert to 134a refrigerant before complete hissing blowout revealing the leak of condensor. Prices and quality of original aren't even a thought of mine to replace it, without a hack job into a stronger one.

I see alot of 20's mpg. How Bizarre! My last subaru (87 dl, pushbutton AWD, 5spd, carbed) went into the 50's per gallon (no joke!) without any sign of lean condition @ 166k miles. The old carb I cleaned whistled like a tea pot . I wonder if it was manual steering, windows, no A/C etc.... 8 bucks 260 miles (with some left in year 2000)

Any neatly successful swaps/conversions for loyale style bodies with a/c condensor OEM mated and possibly fans? I spotted parts for VW jetta, radiator/ac condensor all in one with fans. I was startled at the familiar size.....

the 87 pings at 9.5:1? its timing or air flow. I used to build V8 smallblock chevy with cr numbers unlikely to start (10:1 and +unfathomable) without high octane .Intakes, filters and cfm of injection/carb changed the hoax of "10:1 needs high octane". Todays fuel is even better (its been a few years).I stopped my soob from 87 octane pings just from changing amount of air easily accesible.

93 loyale 5spd, 2wd. 40+ highway, 30's city. Cold weather, of course brings it down for longer warmups.I want a brand new one, nothing changed but more modern stable fuel injection, same CFM.

Has anyone swapped on a 2wd loyale? If so, what are results? Does torque twist/break anything? without driveshaft to gyro, and hold a line of decent displacement/dispersal? for a 90hp EA82, The original transaxles were quite destroyed for this little 4dr roadster @ 126k (signs of damage, much before the final decision to replace at that mileage).I was also thinking turbo EA82, which was also never on a 2wd(as far as could gather nfo)Any info would be great. My 93's body is hanging on quite well for 12 years, would like to do something unique.

To continue Zyewdall's enhancement, two straight rod holders by yakima and the rails to rivet to roof work very nice and look pro.I had 87 dl with straight bar roof racks as a yakima set made for it (no side mount above windows).Idont know part no's, Finding the brackets might be a prob ...

Did they put OEM grease back in? Chances are the berrings were good, the grease to make it last, isn't, killing the berring. I found this prob on old soobs, synthetic grease liberally apllied went for another decade.OEM was a quick factory application of grease, and not a high grade.

hello, This is my first post in the "new" car section. I have a Q about an impreza I found while sailing through the woods of maine in my old loyale... A hood scoop jumped out me as well as the fish bowl look in the amount of glass windows on this car. I was not interested at first until I realized the simplicity of this 2000 model rs 2.5 aspirated 5 spd manual. I immediately thought of my old 87 dl and its manual everything.Under the hood was my mechanical satisfaction of intake and engine , not much more! Unable to find this unglorified model of AWD full time exactly, I am curious to know if the $5500 us is too much.It has 131k, and many paint dings across the front (like my loyale). The mechanic let me start it and there is a mellow valve tapping (doesn't go away). He also mentioned a repair that was identical to my 93 loyale... The rotors up front were unrealistically bad(like brake stuck on?) Another ironic prob was heat shield rattling, I joked "Some noises haven't gone away":) (Like evry older soob I've encountered in Maine, with some miles on it) Looking to upgrade to simply newer, any advice on this model? I personally feel it is way too high, There are loyales, like mine with similar miles, enough power, same probs, selling for cheap to nothing!