bgd73

My 2wd Loyale involuntarily and quickly, gained a wiggle then 4 wheel steering (not fun) and after quick checks knew it was a rear berring. Even after taking it apart, put new berrings, it took me 20minutes of comparing new and old and finally figuring out how the new berring fixed it (the bad berring stayed silent and spinning freely until i fixed it): http://img157.imageshack.us/img157/2072/badberring4gi.jpg The distance between arrows left about 2mm before pin could slide right out. Lucky for me there was a new inside berring on passenger side. If not... The spell this car went thru yesterday would have hurled me right into that house living room I spotted when rear end first broke free (I maintained control and came to a peaceful stop from 55mph).

Glasspack works excellent as center baffle/muffler, gives way less back pressure and a mellow bellow, obviously lesser restriction. Only real noticable flaw was glasspacks are heavy ("flow tech redhots" == 7lbs) and old y pipe needs t have strong hanger at back of tranny. Very non-annoying and gaining performance. I did this to my humble loyale recently, kept oem muffler in back (no packing, long lasting).

Hey thanks again. That answered a thought about fuel pressure above 21psi. ..So the stock pressure regulator can indeed handle well over 24psi pumps. That broadens the horizon a bit. Upon checking ECM codes i realized my ecm has been in "u-mode" and clearing memory every restart for a year. I unplugged a wire and car seems to be way better (may not be fuel pump yet!). It does have quite a sniff of fuel when running tho right from pump( with no leaks), very rusted, could possibly be aerating. .... Meanwhile, late afternoon today my loyale almost killed me when the inner rear wheel berring pulvarized just as silent as a sunrise while pressing the brakes on a 55mph corner. I "wiggled" all the way home (all problems are expected, considering my vow to rebuild everything). 20 miles home on annhilated berring, just as quiet as i didnt know it happened (high temp synthetic grease save the day...err...my life?).:cool:

Thank You. Ford inline, thats a start. Do you know pressure or years/models to inquire? I am putting a metal filter *before* the pump this time (unless pump has one).

Another fuel pump question... Upon reading tech manuals, the passing test for fuel pressure is 20-24psi, and regulated at 21psi at spfi unit. I can't find that pump anywhere except for several hundred bucks (I sure as hell aint goin that route). Will a 10-14psi (very common) pump work? Any suggestions for non-subaru pump, Cheap? The 10-14 psi pump is larger, will it venturi its way to good enough? (the correct pressure via shrinking volume) I had great luck with a carb model and non-subaru fuel pump, i wish to do the same ,cheaper (and ashamed to say much much stronger than subaru OEM). -=I seem to live here lately......

I realized I overfilled my 5spd (by about a pint) a year ago.Can one of you experts tell me why my idle changed, and I gained smoother power, upon sucking a pint out? :-\

I agree about mpfi and spfi, but dont put those on a carbed (oops! had to prime a carbed model to get running, then ran fine: overpressure). I searched and found not pertaining to stock numbers. Hopefully the local parts store will humor my request and have correct cross application. The OEM subaru pump is a real pansy below 0 F. I want larger pump doing same job as OEM. On my last failed subaru pump, I took a punch awl and gently by hand poked a hole completely through the casing(it was 17 yrs old), so needless to say, I dont want a subaru pump replacing it, especially in the area it sits. I will post the common cheap replacement I find here(I had a perfect cross-match already for 30 bucks, just a matter of finding it, it took 2 trips to the parts store to find there are unique falsities as well as matches).:cool:

hey , while i'm at a fuel question, what is the fuel pressure for spfi, and does pump need to be 2 stages like the injector (12 and 24?) I am waiting on my subaru book that I ordered and don't have the answers... I did get one crossed over by comparing pressures (imagine an auto parts clerk taking the time to do that?!) and the results were miraculous with a larger aftermarket pump (correct pressure). What is your favorite after subaru brand of fuel pump for spfi?

The signs I got were hesitation nearing max torque rpm (2700 or so), and symptoms of an air leak, like bad fuel line or intake leak and erratic fuel consumption for same chores. The noise changing to quite loud when it is normally a different sound, and back to quiet again (not due to really cold and warming up). After going over everything to verify things are tight, filters good. My next step would be fuel pump quitting entirely. Why nearing the max torque rpm uses more fuel than an even higher rpm is my subaru mystery... I am there again on my 93....:-\ 19 years is incredible and several hunkred k miles, must have great gas going thru . I get ice and chenistry bizarre where I am at (even found a green slime appearing to grow with the fuel!)

(mtbf == mean time between failure) I was curious to know how long your stock subaru fule pumps run... I had a 87 that went 17 years and currently a 13 year run on my present subaru, but it is spfi, or other factors, giving same symptoms as my old carbeurated in its 17th year(going to break soon). How long has your oem subaru fuel pump been runnin?

10w30 synthetic maintains heavy weight longer than regular. For your exact prob in my car I chose 5w30 if using synthetic (castrol).

This isn't all that funny, but I'll post it anyway.Upon repacking rear berrings, I noticed a washer with a tooth that bent over the nut to lock it, that held berrings in. Where as the tooth was broken, I repacked, put same washer in, torqued and went down the road to try it out. Noise was fixed, later that night impressed with how good it was going, I flew down the highway 50 miles or so, to start having a steering quirk, snappy back end feeling from car (it was moving from left to right). I stopped and on a hunch, checked wheels, and found one was loose, berring related. I popped berring cap off, and nut had completely loosened, I was within <.5 inch of losing wheel, after doing 80mph down the highway!:cool:

Most definately route outside engine compartment. I don't know exact math, but to say 2 inches outside engine area would defeat a 4 inch duct inside . Also, noise stays unnoticable, while obviously gaining the cool density.

There is a way to maintain inert extra flow, and maintain original ECM integrity,and parallel original flow(good for filter as well) and stay dry. The plastic windsheild washer container and plastic duct work act as another duct, and no static. Added quite a boost for me, altho I was extraordinarily slo due to other probs as well at the time, results were good.Very cheap, little bit of time. You could do this(2 inch pipe): http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/1742/picture2075ev.jpg

I really dont want to keep this post babbling on, but here is final result. (it really does need the flange with springs in other words) The y-pipe or another exhaust peice will break without it.The new 2 inch pipe fit exactly over remains of flange for tight easy weld (cheap upgrade!) Here is pic: http://img207.imageshack.us/my.php?image=newexhaust0394ei.jpg

The roughest idle ever seems very much a timing belt off. Fuel probs or fire probs change thru rpms, your problem seems to never leave from idle to 75mph. I would check timing belts before unnecessary parts. I ran an EA82 on two cylinders for months with similar symptoms (I nearly jumped when it was back to normal timing!)

Definately crap weld, one side (ironically still together) doesnt even appear to be welded, I can see the edge of the pipe at convertor connection, no weld noticable (unless I'm blind)! That is right where it broke. I guess putting demand on it revealed its weakness. Give an inch, fall apart for miles .. Darn those famous sayings.

I know these EA82's are very small stroke.... but 1.25-1.5 inch exhaust seems way absurd (dangerous heat?).There are 1100cc motorcycles with more emphasis on exhaust size and route than this 1781. After changing to larger it ran cooler, a little more power from the get-go, and the sound i was trying to kill was way in back of the car instead of buzzing my head thru the shifter. Another point is the 9.5:1 on spfi getting same exhaust as lower compression EA82.Mass production's "who cares, we saved a buck" attitiude is in alot of cars. I got a better look this morning, it is simply broken and not dangling (hung well), i wonder if welding smoke excited convertor into too hot for the 13 year old y-pipe. These things can be dangerously tricky... Give .25 more on pipe, and all kinds of little thinks had to be changed (including idle/air mix, reset ECM, maybe even timing). It broke climbing a rather bumpy steep hill, I'd swear the sound was like 20 ft in back of the car before pipe broke (odd to comprehend). It was probably on fire

The flange seems to be necessary (even tho mine was stuck for years). I broke the y pipe on a short trip just an hour ago. There is a way to make original flange to work with new pipe without bottlenecking. I just can't get away without it. I had no idea that was a second cat, that was replaced by glasspack, all i find is "sound resonator" (resignator) or "center muffler" ... I wonder if I am illegal exhaust :-\

Just replaced some exhaust on a 93 loyale, and found this.... http://img233.imageshack.us/my.php?image=oldexhaust1251kp.jpg A section of pipe (about a foot) was intentionally "crushed" to less than 1 and a quarter inch!:cool: So the mechanic did this with a REAL 2 inch... http://img230.imageshack.us/my.php?image=newexhaust24aj.jpg He bypassed old flange entirely, and was confident about it.... theres also a 24 inch glasspack after new section of pipe (flow tech red hots). ECM is takin awhile to adjust but it is doing so. The most unique sound I have had yet from an EA82 besides duals.

very helpful, thank you. I remember downloading the pdf's some time ago, but lost all data (darn computer!) couldn't remember even downloading them, till i did it again.

What ashame. The standard of living near there must be simply wine swillin' fabulous to let what appears to be a vintage car that isn't even bent/rusted go.

Hey! Is it true there was errors in some Haynes books for loyale generation subaru? I got codes from ecm that were way not makin sense,according to the book, and just ordered a chilton's for subarus.I was told that there were mistakes in relation to the very problem I encountered. My original Haynes book was stolen (of all things to be kifed!)from the back seat of my unlocked car,:-\ and I would find it comical if above rumor was true. Has anyone used the professional technician cd's on ebay for subarus? I found some for 10 bucks, makes me curious.

If bolts break, be sure to get "flange bolts" as replacement. There really is a design exactly for that purpose to maintain the spring pressure and movements necessary(ironically i just bought a set of two today for a rather expensive 7 bucks and change). I found a number 10.something on the top, must be very high grade for heat and pressure.

That engine will never have the advance to gain higher rpms, 100mph seems to be its design limitation, with weight facts etc. .Changing to taller gear would kill its torque max at slower rpm, Bigger cams, intake, higher compression,would be minimal gain (under 50 hp) as well as ECM to gain fire/air/fuel customization. The crank design is physically permanent for low rpm torque (another cylinder fires, very very close to the last one firing, therefore not "thinking ahead" for a race like advance), as a 4x4 soob (most of them) would need.I have encountered 1.8L 4 bangers that screamed (old Audi A4, even an old dodge omni: Of course they are all DEAD and buried now). A true example of this was an air cooled boxer in a VW beetle that changed crank and cams, to in fact become a tire burning screamer on same jugs and bore and stroke , the crank was simply aftermarketed to advance very quickly, with cams tuned to match. Longevity is the intelligence of the EA82 more than anything (very tight).