
bgd73
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Everything posted by bgd73
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Going extreme on your battery to counter-act another is not necessary. I bought a 425 cca battery in 2000 and it is now 6 years later, in its second soob, and 5 winters reaching killer temps below zero. Never had a jump start. Have given plenty of jump starts however... Bolting it down with the plastic tray underneath and rubber cover over positive terminal once installed seems to be only importance not to forget . That corrosion should go away with enough amperage, and no short circuits.
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Ok. All done talkin to myself. As an experiment I put mini-visegrips on rubber coolant line coming out of spfi to pinch it off. Incredible. I tried it out on highway on ramp full throttle, and it never "committed suicide"! 3rd gear 65mph, at about 5000 rpm, letting out a bellow I never thought that little engine would ever have and still pulling rapidly up towards redline. I'm just gonna plug it at back of spfi unit and leave coolant stagnant. It really worked. I am willing to bet I'm pushing 90.1 hp
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Or better yet for my pursuit of cold air intake.. has anyone blocked off the two ports on intake underneath SPFI and left the coolant line open at back of spfi (to air), and lastly blocked line on heater hose it goes to? Some allen head screws flush fit and sealed to intake would work, and according to manual, it is just a mini-route riding the bigger one...not necessary for engine's main coolant flow. As for needing heat riser, if this little ea82 got anymore up top end I could fry an egg on spfi unit(All while temperatures read normal- no fluid consumption, etc etc.). I am missing my old carbed DL more than ever.... I could drive for days @ hot outside and casually touch anyhwere on intake for luke warm. The SPFI is insanely too much heat for performance of any realistic kind (I really NEED it). I will post my results if no reply... The cfm gained in cooler compressed air allowed to pass through SPFI (i am guessing) will be a decent surprise.It will be my worst hack yet against an EA82's function (almost sadly)
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The most elusive leak yet .. at the bottom of spfi unit where it mates to the intake manifold. There was a little rubber horseshoe looking gasket that let coolant leak as well as vacuum. there was crud that needed a paint remover wheel grinder to get off as if it made tiny wormholes to perfectly leak- it looked like a yellow chalk and burnt stubborn stuff.All while SPFI was tight to intake. Not trusting the original gasket I used silicone good to 400 deg F lightly on base of SPFI as well as gasket. Anyone have better solution? I did clean until surfaces were shiny.I am curious to know if anyone made a gasket out of material worthy. Subaru didn't use silicone there for a reason...:-\
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the super four is quite a plug. Reminds me of old "splitfire" for bad cylinders (didn't work ). What makes it use not just one of the four prongs in contentment? I think I could trust that coil, after what I did to keep my old one going I will wait. The fuel air prob is almost conquered. The old engine just needs a lower thermostat now.... The ECU stuff is as normal as it is going to get. Thanks for the coil idea. On my externally clean engine the increased volts would be welcome for the dirty old guts . I am pretty sure grounds are safely routed:lol:
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conquer the intake. Get the flow down like nature of an old boxer doesn't want. The epiphany was my shrinking head and ability to comb my hair a week later and remembering whjat day it was fater a 600 mile trip. Heat does change electrical. Electrical changing heat is a burnt fuse.... Good Luck. Don't lick the coil while engine is running, it is painful .
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I like the ride! I saw a vacuum chamber for distributor.. it gives me an idea for some probs on mine. Is that a front bumper on the back? I haven't seen one that looks like your setup, very sharp looking suby
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EA82 with A/C alternator wiring question
bgd73 replied to todda1's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I would no doubt get it wired up the same as now. The purpose for caddy alternator is larger amp? I would be doubting a flawless install and run.A new subaru alternator is cheap (reman). Is there a prob now with lack of 12v amperage? If so, check system grounds.Straining resistors for a bit more amperage is risky.I had my car with "half" of an almost burnt fusible link near the coolant bottle (Perfectly not quite broken!) I had dim lights, bad radio and on and on and on... Good luck with project, do you have means to take pics? -
mav: Mine was same at cold. I did a bunch of stuff and it flim-flammed into bad at warm. Someday it will be narrowed down to the truth of it all.... I can only work with ECM and its abilities. the switch happened on mine when I finally gave engine air and less restrictive exhaust. Perfect when cool/cold. Keeping it cool all the time will fix mine, knowing electrical is good, it is the only thing left.When engine is cold it gets more fuel. more fuel needs more air.Once you have ruled out coil, etc. target these things.Is your idle good when cold? there is a screw you can tinker with on spfi unit to help it some.
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There is one ground larger near alternator side of engine. That checks out good, things should be good. A sensor may just be problem... I forgot to mention on my old DL with similar problems, I had put in an ice cold thermostat.I *had to* put cardboard over the radiatior in winter to get heat for the sake of engine running very well. The intake was getting taken over no matter the decent electrical due to heat (never an overheat- just regular running temps showing good).As if to constrict what it needed. The SPFI is even more sensitive. After initial warmup, it is powerful and smooth. When thermostat is open, it does start going into the problems. Not using fluid (<1 gal in 13 months),I can rule out burn/leaks. I will drop thermostat to 160-ish. Even that changes electrical!
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Yes test was good. That was my no#1 problem a year ago. there were things so loose I don't know how car ran! I just recently tightened up oil pan bolts by much more than 1 full turn a piece. The cam case by half turns, the intake was leaking fluid, the spfi was also loose in certain spots. The problem seems so much electrical related , ECM perhaps. There's as if to be a flim flam around max torque rpm. Sometimes it runs like a tractor trailer (very strong at lower rpms) other times it's like a dragster with fat cams rockin the engine in anticipation waiting for 10000 rpm at the green light to go. My old DL did this just once for a few weeks. It suddenly stopped and I went another 6 years flawlessly... I don't see that happening on this SPFI. Maybe I go to junk and get old distributor and carb
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I wonder if they shipped them out loose....Mine did have the original NGK in 3 cylinders. Anyway, I am still misfiring. I am at a loss. if coil is just good or bad , and I've made old one better, I must have yet another problem.It seems like engine knocks a bit when it does it. Great idle, and really comes to life at 2800 rpm,slowly but surely, inbetween is still very important to me and local driving. I have no idea how to fix it.Spits and sputters and outright misfires, any type of plug.
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I learned accels on a v8 , they are bad for the most part! I was shocked (pun intended) to know the suby coil had to stay painted- the *only* layer keeping it from taking a detour(for 13 years!).The platinum plugs I got for under 2 bucks a piece, I can't complain. I saw that precise node on them and thought "finally- why in hell don't all plugs stay this precise" . The version I got doesn't have a nub "glued" to it, it is the whole end staying strong (thier were bad ones a few years ago, by Bosch- I guess the ends on some even fell off into the chamber!).Regular spark plug ends have a regular wander - just change fuel and outside temperature and the one of many many other factors that try and "blow out the fire".Sometimes spark wander is good if your engine's design can go to piston-plug detonation,You wouldn't ever want the same spark twice .(soobs don't and won't ever- the aluminum heads are way to attractive to find an end to the spark.) Mass production has cheap contracts for thier mass volume. I will not only doubt many OEM parts, I will experiment to satisfy the "little" truths untold/unspoken.I believe plugs is only one of quite a few things found on my old soob:confused:
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I agree. My expirement worked for now. Coil still on "to do" list. Why use a ground wire upon a complete route when it can take a detour ...called a short circuit. Unpainted metal baring suby coils aren't very friendly
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It was no doubt the coil. I was trying to tighten a cam casing bolt up top while engine was running while it was hot... *Zap* by the coil to cyl head via me.I noticed coil was rusted and flaking and unpainted in spots.I painted it to experiment and it now has no shorts, and 7000 rod throwing rpm I saw aftermarket replacements with coils still just simply painted. I'll go with my hack job covered in electrical tape to the end. This could be the platinum difference (affects the coil built in resistance?) A billion times to hear about platinum spark plugs being bad in Subarus must have at least one fact. I stated mine. Error free....:-\
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Ok, the platinum plug difference(from 2001 forum post about Subaru and platinum plugs): Electrical Resistivity (ohm-meters): 1. Silver: 1.59e-8 2. Copper: 1.673e-8 3. Gold: 2.35e-8 4. Platinum 10.6e-8 Simply higher for platinum. A post claimed it triggered a CE light on an impreza, more than one claimed they worked just fine. I am at 22000 miles in less than a year with them, no probs.Maybe young engines and all thier cleanliness are sensitive to the resistance? I have no idea.....
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really? Do you know why....? My brother put some in his Nissan and killed it (head problems), I have had no trouble at all. They also saved my bro-in-laws stubborn 400ci GM with aluminum heads.I figured cast iron and aluminum together, it would be even better in all aluminum. I ended up painting the old coil and wrapping it in electrical tape while paint was still tacky(experiment). It made no difference in how the engine runs. Prevented short circuits and crazy tach, temp guage isn't a slow yo yo anymore... 312 chores to go, and I'll be starting over like a typewriter.
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Great! ty. Another way to step up coil safely is with Bosch Platinum plugs (very small precise tip<--fantastic with aluminum heads). I will add stronger coil to my spring fix-up list.... I did get jumped by rusty coil with my socket wrench (just a few min ago!) . It's time to scrap it.
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Can an old coil defy the time to spark by delaying/elongating fire? My tach gets a burp simultaneous to an engine burp lately. I have an exhaust fire noise out one head that goes away at about 1500-2000 rpm (I am certain it is #4 cyl).If timing belt, it would get both cyl's on one head.I have done all normal tune-up stuff (plugs, wires,rotor, cap). Before I buy, if it is problem, does a higher volt fire coil hurt the ea82? should I go with OEM equivelant coil? I even steam cleaned engine to get rid of battery alkaline and other uknowns (causes similar aforementioned errors).
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I found this browsing in my spare time... http://ramengines.com/_wsn/page3.html I am a huge fan of high compression (let nature handle the rest). I read an article of an ea82 spfi pistons perfectly going into an ea81. The kit at this website has flat pistons for ea81. Anyone done this to an ea82 with the pistons shown? I am guessing it would knock it up to over 10:1 (still friendly) except for possible valve disaster due to no "safe" grooves...
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WJM has seen another thing...EA82 information
bgd73 replied to WJM's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
5-6mm is not too thin. Maximizing cooling dissipation needs it. If you exceed its ability to cool, it is your cause of problem.If a siamesed bore 400c.i. GM can run at "holy cow" HP(horribly extreme example). An aluminum suby can go quite far. Drop thermostat, and many other things to take the super heat of the super thing you did to get it super hot:) -
ok, thanks. Melling isn't exactly my favorite (as it turns out, that was the pump in my v8 that self-destructed). I just did a quick search at google and found no store for Parut pump.do you know where to look?
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Anyone get this at Advanced Auto for EA82? I thought I would check, as I have had pumps claiming to be correct and destroyed my engine (GM aftermarket).
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Perhaps I'm a crackhead It is stretching, triggering the tensioner to move up. It is the oil pump timing belt (the only one I have ever broken). I guess it is time to give it new tensioners etc. The exhaust has been reworked 3 times by a bad welder before done correctly within a few days. That is how I know there is no leaks (I got underneath it to verify). At a smoother rpm the belt eases off tensioner, taking noise away....It also explains the hard time keeping exhaust together.The exhaust valve time is affected. I seemed to have gone industrial strength on the ol' soob's exhaust!