bgd73

Don't jump at the bad clutch yet. If car was sitting awhile it will slip for some time. you are still engaging and disengaging and pedal feels normal (if not adjust it- be sure there is plenty of slop when pedal is up). I had a loyale do this at 3,4 and 5th gear. Out of frustration I floored it in 4th and when it grabbed, it never slipped again to this day even with a bit of extra power added to the engine. Even a bad rear main with a chance for oil to get in, goes away (unless way extreme pumping on the ground). really high miles may be a new clutch necessary, but even then...

throttle spring cover drivers side for hitachi carbed ea82:-\ ?

I love when things get proven better/differently, by independent thought... Manufactured cars target everybody. I liked the performance target of that car. Makes the ej22 in a Loyale sedan 2wd seem all the more intriguing...

a prototype called "prodrive p2" with a impreza engine, not in the us, sounded like UK. Goes faster than an impreza. don't know if this is posted yet, but here it is. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0hDqlASKHc&search=PRODRIVE%20P2

I wish. I went to get another unit and the price was incredible. I got my car for free....Constant sense of vacuum leak when just started. I have to wait and wait and wait or I get a coughing hesitation. Mine is errored apparently. The 17 (thats just when i gave it away for free) year old error free carb was well thought genius.Problems and complaints are thoughts not matching thier integrity. I never had to do anything and pushed a wagon up over 50mpg vs the 2wd sedan now with less at all ranges and no power increase.-25 F was an epiphany to me when it came to benefits of man made math and nature starting the car. Climbing pit walls with a 87 dl carb had no problems next to my friends 89 burping spfi--they both did exactly the opposite of the supposed reasons otherwise, climbing steep banks.strange outcome.Maybe the bigger barrels surged it up over while spfi pretends to be more precise on a smaller one? and my true frustration is this.... 1 nanosecond and a resistor having a bad moment (less than perfect in other words):-\

spfi needs a good angle The carbs could go vertical :-\ (I swore it would be the opposite) I have started in frigid cold very good-- the hitachi I used to run was more efficient, friendly. The serious problem I have encountered with spfi , -- the coolant going through the bottom of unit can crack it in an overheat(before anything else, the unit became a target).The other is the ECU-- I have burnt a resistor tinkering under the hood with the key on..You can't do much with the maf in demand, to change intake boot dramatically, and if you have any system electrical anomolies, the spfi is real finicky.Everything has to be just right. I'd go carb any day. ECU setups and the chips are getting old and petrified and slower than new, and the carb gives more cfm (if your engine is cammed etc) . I guess I could say SPFI sucks regardless of the bumpy reliable ride it gave since new.

nice job! takes alot of work. I did the same on my rusting loyale over a year ago. Still shiny in alot of places. (it even helped my electrical anomaly...basically why I did it:) )

hey Loyale2.7Turbo The 9004 is far from dim on my loyale. It happened after a new alternator and fusible link that was "half bad". I still get high beam flashes from oncoming traffic to turn my lights down, and I can't because they are already on low beam! This is after dropping the front suspension and bringing lights down with it(I thought that would stop that annoyance from oncoming traffic - but it didn't). I thought all was well until the fusible link change. It made quite a difference for brighter.I checked pliability of links and engine ground for the dirty blue alkaline lookin stuff-- it perfectly catches up, even without a bad one.lights seem to be the first revelation of something fading away...

I am glad I heard your engine. I had a hunch the oem cams were very conservative due to the size of the little intake with low vacuum.The only thing left would be cams hardly doing anything... Hmmmm. Would love to see a vid of your car takeoff

the idle sounded good and smooth.. what difference is the delta cams? (longer/shorter duration/lift than oem)

From the sounds of it, your car safely crossed what I was inquiring about.. There is a contrasting geological "line", travelers have to cross it all the time, south to extreme north and vice versa.I have gone countless times up and down the east coast to notice this. This line changes just south of new york, or in the city mid summer. I had a hunch that the boxer would do good, just ignore the guages .I haven't had a vehicle yet that didn't give me some kind of notice from northern new england to farther south.In fact I just blew up a 96 corsica <97k miles last year for no reason, after a trip south. It was single digits in maine and far different by new york.I should have known I forgot my omen with inline 4 cyls.I never tried a sube yet.Not long ago, a relative mysteriously blew up an intake plenum on a similar trip south cold to very warm in what seems to be a half day trip sometimes. I don't get much conversation out of it either .Discouraging facts indeed..My nose tells me when I've crossed into the completely different tropical like air mass. I bet the sube could do it at 200k miles

I knew they were out there, doing what I hoped I won't hesitate to hop in my old hack job and go go go. It is even a straight unibody this time... I once again creep up over 40 mpg @ 152k miles. It must be my foot mastered on the throttle ... I don't seem to find those results very often in the ea82.My DL hit over 50 for a couple of hundred good highway miles at a time and was great on oil. Thanks for the details!

How old was it at the time of trip? that is alot of weight. Was it turbo? I drove a 5spd wagon that was 17, never rebuilt, for over 1300.quite a chore! Needed bearings all the way around, and was bent to the point of not holding a new transaxle contently .I have since put that same axle in another sube out of frustration-- to prove it was a bent car, it is like new in the second sube, no clicks..the bent one kept passing inspection based on appearance apparently. Anyway, My doubts are less now with a quiet back end 2wd. my guess is it would go a loooong way.I don't know the Loyales as cross country travelers often. I posted question similar quite some time ago. Seeing if anyone really went nomad since, and now that they are all even older ...to assure my own motivation. Personal circumstance has got me setting up an old loyale to go absolutely anywhere

I am curious... I have been all over new england with a DL carbed and a 93 spfi.1300+ miles straight and never shut it off, was my longest trip, but it was cool temps. Only going beyond that a few times in other cars. They changed noticably getting into what I call the "tropics of New Jersey" due to the contrast of my state and its weather. Can an old sube handle a trip from one extreme to the other non-stop? traffic jams in nyc on a 90 degree day etc etc.. I have read miles-fox adventure and its making me doubt a few things (like the head gaskets in warmer humid weather)..:-\

I went to junk yard after they told me they had a 93 loyale ecu. I show up, it is diff part numbers and for an 88 GL. So I drove home on the Zalman resistor (and then some) to take a guess at what would be good. I was impressed by no pings the zalman gave me, and also proved my hunch about this 2wd taking off too fast for the ECU and gadgets to loop around for the throttle curve.Only problem with the zalman 56ohm was the cold starts were bad. So, Radio Shack had a 10 ohm, 1 watt gold tolerance resistor. I wanted 5 ohm or less at 1 watt or greater, but that is as close as they had for 99 cents. As it turned out, it was very good. No pings and ran great when cold too (unlike the zalman). Upon smelling the computer circuits after first run and knowing how slow the layers change from building pc's, I parked the whole front end of the car at the end of a boat ramp in the river to help it along to the new settings. So Far it is excellent, no errors and improved ... got lucky on a hunch and saved some dough in the process. If it was a 4x4 I would have sought the faster responding oem ECU.All I did was slow and filter more... funny thought is even these 2wds manual trannys brand new pinged for many years blaming the gas on a 9.5:1 engine (another reason I went with my intuition to hack at it a bit)There should have been no pings on this compression and proper air/fuel for the throttle.I got lucky with the resistor swap.I even went to the local notorious for bad gas station and all i got was hesitation , no pings.I did many other things to stop pinging such as letting air in to engine more, but this fix was the grand finale (in a very good way)

I inadvertantly burnt a resistor and replaced it with one from radio shack on my ECU (resistor R1). There is no pings now, and from cold to warm is better and responsive. Is there a way to tinker with the curve of stuff without changing resistors on a 93 loyale?

Pheonix Arizona is a lovely place to save on normal petroleum products Where I am has needed something special for fuel/oil/antifreeze and painting chemicals, body repair and tires, even the very steel and aluminum the old sube rides on. If it is to be special due to demographics revealing success, I am still calling the special normal. :-\ The shame is indeed the dent in the wallet:banghead: Maybe I'll just pack up the old sube and head west like a.....

I tried the castrol startup formula ,that wasn't good for me,it did the opposite of quiet starts and took a long time to calm down. Went back to regular castrol, drained down everything on hot engine and made noise next cold start, not as long, but still noisy. I finally tried high mileage and its the better I've had yet, I keep using it winter and summer. Just enough stick, and not too much for taking things apart and cleaning/rebuilding (10w30 high mileage). The 4 headlight subarus weren't Loyales where I live, and they never had fuel injection. The heads egr placement is also different (better).1987 was the last of them, 88 went to spfi, etc.I would love one of those 87 dl's again!

great place for the egr! (the wrong side) even better, is no side at all! plug it and make the sube happy..

It would be a surprise to you to find one right in your neighborhood... I do that all the time, even here in "the rustbucket state" of Maine. I don't know if you are into rebuilding/repairing, but that is even easier and just as surprising.

Hey, that looks great! How does the balance do on the highway, long trips? I have access to all tools mentioned , but avoided challenging the integrity of hubs/rotors. Even the alignment of rim to fender looks good.

hey! The 84 2wd has no fix. Aren't I optimistic! The loyale bodys did something a little better, but even then the 2wd wagons around here bent/twisted the body near the shifter (roof too long?). If your lucky the 20 year body is petrified and you can defy Subaru's logic to get what you want for awhile.... Have a great crappy day!

The waiting game is on. I am sure he won't sell it . I talked to him and he claimed his grandma owned it before him. The plastic dogs glued to the dashboard is verifying it to be likely. He also claimed it was driven frequently.. (this where the "fibs" begin). I said, that particular engine cannot sit too long, it will seize, and he replied it wasn't and runs good. The body is bent with no doubts, the exhaust bad also proves that (its one of the first things to break on a bent sube) and also the integrity of sube materials leaves exhaust sytems lasting many many years, especially <64k miles.Maybe time will bring more reality to the owner...:-\ Meanwhile... my current sube has a bad crank thud, it "ain't" going away anymore...

That is no doubt the reality of it. I finally calmed enough to remember what I gave away as junked still inspected (1987 DL 4x4 wagon -Yes I am a moron :-\ ). If I had what he wanted in my pocket, I would have coughed it up. I am glad now I didn't... grossgary: That seems as though it will work, it is close enough to a road to drag car up and out of its ruts onto the wood to jack it up(maybe car ramps). I am getting ahead of myself, the owners price is no doubt out for unrealistic revenge on his own wallet ..:-\

hey thanks. you are right about the body, it has to go. plus, sunk in the grass for steel isn't a bright idea.given that thought 500 seems a still very fair price...maybe 400. I bet the owner is vengeful with that kind of miles sitting on his car (didn't get its moneys worth- ya know what I mean?) the sign on window said third owner.The swap sounds easy enough, mine isn't even normal anyway, but worked (non-oem). Maybe a longshot to yank out the engine where it sits in the field and let a junk yard take the rest away Thanks for swap info.