bgd73

I found my sedans twin (same colors in/out) sunk in the grass with a for sale sign on it.. My dresser drawer on my roof almost went for a ride as I slammed on the brakes to check it out. I popped the hood and found zero fluids on the engine. the odometer is correct at 63871 miles, with the dreaded auto tranny 2wd.The front bumper is banged in badly, but left fenders alone.. Is this worth 800 obo? After fixing countless little things on my own sedan to the point of really liking it, I can't even price this priceless car.. Who would bargain at what price? Will the ECU fit? What on back of engine needs to come off or stay on to bolt up to my manual tranny? all glass is good and doors edges are even in tact for the exact swap for my car! Name a real price, I will offer it to owner..

if i had a third arm I could have squeezed together one row and put the coil lock in ....there is a Big impression about these Little soobs....I haven't quite figured it out yet. I have seen those on v8 cars and much heavier springs. The soob has 250lb(?) total, leaving each row even less. I squished a row nearly together with one hand. I trust the universal statement on package. 2.5 inch snapping back up even on a turn isn't even dangerous if i should be able to snap one (most likely on a hard takeoff - holds the front end down since they have been in). I like that coil over idea, I spotted similar but was uncertain of good fit. I need to leave the goofy saggin back end low .. otherwise I would try something like it.

Its the 2wd model problems. The front stayed 4x4, the back didn't. Coincidentally I just found a fix for mine today for 5 bucks... same problems. rather than explain check this quick explanation out.. http://93loyale.50megs.com/clock.html

I went to the parts store and for under 5 bucks did this to my wheelie popping saggy back end 2wd... http://93loyale.50megs.com/clock.html

anybody drop front coil springs with a swap or part? I have 2wd Loyale poppin a wheelie and want the front down instead of back up to match it. It seems too dang light - makes me think twice about the back end way up in the air going down the highway in a wind. The front sits as high as a 4x4. I noticed the angle of the engine, and really want to accomplish this.

hey, I wonder if there is a 2 inch version of the sube ea82 muffler. I really like it. hollow canister, no flow is taking a restrictive "90" to get out and it gives a mellow bass in conjunction with a glasspack as sound resonator...not to mention they last and last and last. Any brands to check into?

A weak intake will make the big exhaust hollow. Something finally filling it would surely be something breaking on the engine. There is a way to work with some oem stuff to open up the top end, hence this post. There is no exhaust correct it seems for what simple things I have done.Cat back exhausts are great indeed, without the noise, especially if designed for specific cars. good stuff. Two inch the whole way may not be a killer, I have seen some here with it sounding good.

here is bosch platinum after 22k miles on #3 cylinder. Is that antifreeze burned on? if photo doesnt show up it is in usmb member photos bgd73 and also here is link http://img165.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bosch27uc.jpg

speaking of the washers, i did find a 68 gm327 spark plug. I had one v8 that needed this without the crush washer (bizarre) . I wonder what this short ngk would do in a sube

Yes it was for compression. 60 's engines had high comp already, I wonder what engines came with washers on plugs...

hey! can you take the washer off the spark plugs on an ea82? just curious...

I suppose either way has its way. longevity or not longevity. 1000 miles straight with the big pipes proved it to me a long time ago... there needs to be a tuned exhaust exactly for the engine, from low rpm to high. A twin turbo v8 could get thru 2.5 inch monster pipes easily. It is a hoax on a modern four banger. Ridiculous. Hoax.

The stock muffler is hollow in the coolest part of the whole system. The "oomph" on a bigger one is your hollow imagination . pun intended. Deeper compression, bigger valves, high rev cam. Even then that freaky hollow 50 year muffler would hang onto every "oomph" you think your having. A v8 I ran with high hp didnt even need 2.25 inches on higher compression and bigger valves and revs to 8000. with a cylinder firing every 90 degrees. Stop the four cylinder window rattling fantasy and get a real exhaust. It is much quieter than you "kids" think.Seeing those large pipes for a four banger has people like me muttering. Four cylinders need precision on the exhaust, not a flame throwing "short timer" crowd exciter.

There is a seeming endless possibility for exhaust. By my own reason (if it helps) the factory dimensions right off the heads are great, the junction needs bigger until the "second cat" or resonator,(even if nothing is going there, just use it as a distance) then pipe can go back to oem, even the muffler, as it is cooler by then anyway. Sounds big, not loud. Keeps oem stuff for fuel, etc all good.If high revs for a long time, all the way back with 2" is very good.

Being new subaru has it on the intake side already.... I have never driven an engine so full a curve, start to screaming, what would it take to encapsulate everything to an exact science? I am better off for now keeping the oem tail end, my old ea82 is just that.

ok. thanks. so how do you put that number into a circumference/ diameter of a pipe? OEM should be correct, then. Why adding more air on a sube engine is so hard on the oem stuff could only be the balance defying the cc logic.Low end does indeed stay good, towards higher rpms, like 4000 it seems as though bigger is a must have.maybe A variable exhaust pipe valve....:-\ The dynamics from low end to top end is huge! it likes both!

I haven't ever out done an exhaust system until a Subaru and some of its oem dimensions. How does an expert REALLY tune an exhaust for a an old Sube? Not too big, not too small... just right.:-\

I have no doubts about the ea and 150 hp staying just n/a. Especially 2wd.The weight lighter and car stiffened (as any race car enthusuast has to contend with on factory cars), does quite alot for the curve to the ground.goal to get rid of the sloppy bass drum and tighten into a easily drum rolling snare so to speak.The rest is easy once that is figured , if mechanically inclined .High compression I have noticed, doesn't seem to be popular on the EA82, it is no doubt the unibody, and axles the weak discouragement.I would love to see one maxxed out with no turbo/charger from a dyno.

Ok. I've got it now... Since I had to put a Zalman pc fan resistor in the ECU (long story) and it ran good.. "The Zalman Sedan" I did see the same type of deflector with stickers on it. Maybe just the letter "X" in the center... Somethin simple.... That piece worked very well. I bet the wood is quieter than some metal/plastic in a thinner sheet, and takes up less space. By the time I'm done preserving it it will be a piece of plastic wood

If I could analogize: The sound of a haunted house with screaming death wind and add vibration to that above my head... Or a hurricane through a pine grove.... or a 50 year old miltary jet doing 500mph as you sit next to one of 3 leaky windows to look out of....Enough to drive a veteran crazy.

how bout this...U.S. memorial day thoughts

that would be informative... maybe a sube logo from trunk lid...

I have no imagination. I was thinking "YAKIMA" simply stenciled in the center, but I am curious to ideas, like a hillbilly pickup truck would have on the bug shield at the end of its hood.

I bet it does something.. I am certain I encountered someone who tried a "smog pump" (simply pumped air) from a 70's v8 more common on chryslers than anything. Gave an idle like a locomotive (a bit exxagerated of course) and did not do so well in the auto tranny shifts as it ran all the time. Don't know if it was carbed or not, but the smog pump would be coming from one.Helped tremedously on low rpm boost, right where four cylinders really need it.I bet a standard shift could milk it along. I would like to try that electric version sometime....

The problem was all me, simple mistake, quick zap. It is fixed now. I do not have 6.5 ohms on R1, it is now 56 ohm monster. I have been driving for 40 miles or so local today, runs great.When cold the resistor is an obvious millisecond(s) delay, but no problems.Thanks for reply. I will pickup another OEM ecu in few days.