bgd73

This saab wheel is a no go. I measured a bit more closely this morning and it is way too close for the 140mm studs to be in a safe spot. Worth a shot to check out tho. On a whim I grabbed them cheap, didn't have chance to really take time and measure -- I won't be using them. Convert to the 5 lug or nothing at all for me -- that seems to be a rarity too. What a freakin shame, is it 30 years of 140mm x4 by subaru? Not one person stepped up to be a multimillionare with 15 inch street rims for a 4x140mm sube cheaply. Incredible.I can go find 12 brands of toilet paper for 69 cents, but no sube wheel that ran for a couple of decades with 4 bolt is gonna get a 15 inch wheel. I guess am off to paint the bent 13's until this old ea82 driveline is finally ready to retire.

I guess I wait till tomorrow to find out.. seems likely just drilling a darn hole is a common task at a mchine shop. It is not exactly 3.5 inch center hole by sube (I don't believe -- tell me if I am wrong). so I will bring a sube wheel and the alloy so maybe they can figure exact measurements. The only drawback to this saab wheel is bead leakage (notorious for it on the old alloys) it only happens after many many miles and years, most can be saved by wire brushing clean and using bead sealer on new tires. will find out soon enough-- I think there is 3 shops (thats all) I can check locally. I am so tempted to try this on my own with a hand drill.. but it absolutely has to be precise. Once center is drilled, a hub with no studs would be precise guide, fit to the wheel and hand drill away simply.

yes your right, I ended up with 108 upon thinking of drilling near same holes. I don't even pay attention to mm on my caliper.. I did get the 4.5 inch. Easily fit the 140mm (5.5) within the center plate , which is all steel backing too,well beyond current holes. made me even more confident.

it is a loooong running same wheel with number changes and small details -- can be found on any given saab from 1969-1998 on the different saab model numbers (thats the model number changes--same exact wheel) oh the width was 5.5 (even better to match the sube for power steering and rack stress). Saab bolt pattern is 108x4, my intention is to get center drilled out for a tight fit like a sube wheel now and drill holes between current holes-- it would kinda look like an enkai 4-lug universal. I know it can be drilled, but I am not exactly full of choices on local machining, so I could be stuck. It doesn't even need a diamond bit, a carbon one would get it done.

I've been on castrol gtx since I got it a year ago... Time to change it every 3000, cool it way down and keep the guts seated. The heat has been only difference the past month or so, and noticed the past week, no consumption on 4000 mile oil that saw a 1350 mile trip. Synched something contently-- Maybe I'll park it to just be able to say it is excellent on oil before anything changes

hey, found these saab wheels and on a hunch grabbed them cheap by the side of the road... then a mile or two up the road.. a whole saab for an even better deal with 4 more of the same alloys. I do have a machining question- Is there a means to 3.5 inch drill the center out at a machine shop? (can call tomorrow to find out, but I figured to ask here amongst the wheel hackers).Was going to do myself on drill press and a diamond steel/concrete bit but the press isn't big enough. Upon measuring offset, I got excited, it will fit in the wheel wells! Looks pretty too 15x6 saab

I am used to 1/4 of a quart every 200-250 miles. I had a very slight overheat where the cap released back in to the coolant reservoir (didn't overflow-- perfect overheat) several times. The engine stopped using oil- its been over 1000 miles and it is still full-- are subes that tough? do they need an overheat to reseat "stuff"?

I found an old loyale like mine very cheap... It is 100 yards from a barn I have access to, with the benefit of rolling it downhill to tear it apart in this barn-- This is stuff I want to save: ECU engine (all attached as well) rear hubs windshield wheels radiator .. and that is about all I am going to see how fast it takes to chop it in half with a sawz-all (small barn) to have room for engine and half the car. I got thinkin of the other half: I have seen this on several makes and model FWD cars for a trailer-- anyone done this with a sube? There is a powerful weight of heavier steel for 4wd behind rear seat, not sure if it is beneficial to attempt this.

Your car is in nice shape! It was startling to see, as those cars around here self destructed by every possible means long ago (under 10 years as a daily driver)-- digidash was not welcome, and the bodies did something that really deteriorated fast. In fact I haven't seen one but once in all of new england in YEARS.My old basic 1987 DL was a rarity -- and that sat for years at a time. Just died last year (body broke).southern CA is another great place for the old subes that didn't make it in the extremes.

thats the stuff I am talkin about....It is not truly enthusiastically documented anywhere that I can find-- and digital vid is very easy to come by to record and keep it free info.I have even found the old slow poke beetles out there with good free documented vid. who cares how fast it is! (reply to previous post) I had a DL -- the toughest part was the radiator, and egr was something to forget about (no probs).That seems funny to say, as my neighbor who worked on his old 79 sube for years, used to joke-- time to pull the radiator with an engine hoist and pull another sube in for the rebuild, (and drop the everlasting radiator in) .The first GL I saw (the last) was with the first year of spfi and did in fact have differences than now,problems that disappeared with loyales.The body at <10 years was falling apart. My friend literally had to change the hatch door on the wagon- it was missing entire pieces of steel in angled places from rust- it happened to many of them here- rear quarters, paint failing, front of hood- fenders and doors were pathetic. he called it the hatch door the bulk head, the car twisted without it shut.I learned in the year 1992, from a brand new loyale owner-- there is indeed something different.Driveline was snappier, body was quieter (softer body) -all on same appearance of most every part. I personally found it to be the underside below our feet -- it is more pliable, less likely to rust, never going to break (like my DL).The years are proving it silently.By the time gl's and Dl's proved the weak running unibodies (which made engine power way underestimated)- they got real cheap, real fast.now I am seeing old loyales at 12-15 years all in the same locale, with much less body probs and axles that lasted, and timing belts and even more miles, looking better - and still kinda fun to throttle up in.for next to nothing -- why is nobody talking? They get beaten just like every old sube I see.As far as I know- not even Subaru talked differences. It's like finding subes with oem gadgets ya never heard of sometimes. I believe just the loyale existing is one of them. I bet years after I am done with subes--I'll see a loyale going by with the silence that never explained them, except for the negative things of previous years models.I ran a DL for 8 years till it was 17 to learn this. Hope you make a vid-

from 1st to second is so low, I think I would break something in that maneuver :-\ . Way too much applied in a short time to slam it like a hammer .. yikes.. (and it doesn't even want to "burn rubber" That noise from 2nd to third is not a mic anomoly - kinda sounds like a blow off valve. I have no freakin idea what it is -- only over 5000rpm from 2nd to 3rd (clutch diggin in?). I heard this noise only once before from a wagon, doing same function. It was mentioned fuel pressure releasing going back to the tank, the loyales hardly ever have to do that(?). 25mph (short highway on ramp) to 75 by the end of it, is all I am after.. to calmly settle down to 38mpg maintaining the 70's for what feels like 10000 miles straight without a problem....Ahhhhhh I would love to see an ea82T havin fun vid-- the vids on net don't seem to exist.

I think I've got it now... upon an internet site of diy a/c, I followed advice (I think it is too controversial to mention). I added 12oz over what oem states as full with a bottle. Now the clutch is doing something I am accustomed to on a low system -- a/c clutch engaging on and off quickly in a few second intervals. The diy bottles are a falsity to the amount of refrigerant they claim to have.also, when system is approaching "full" the bottles don't have enough on thier own to equalize a good reading, the site I found mentioned dipping can in a warm bowl of water while filling, and lo and behold it got it working better. Should I add one more 12oz? The quick on/off routine is as far as I have got to full automation. Before this last 12oz,I had to play with the switch in the car to get it going, then it would run a long time to frigid, then just shut off for at least 30 minutes or more, not wanting to stay engaged. It is definately a sealed system and clean enough -- watching sight glass clearly can tell you if theres a problem, mine is looking good at a shade to have plenty of oil/conditioners and no bursts of bubbles at all -- this is all I know so far.To add one more bottle or not is my big Q -- or if theres a prob with clutch quickly engaging and disengaging, would love to know the answer. I will post entirely the details if I get this going correctly DIY.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=12145&cat=500&ppuser=12611 saab aero wheels photo'd in... they look like enough drilling room to make fit. anyone tried it?

Definately different. I don't see any drilling either.. what years are they from?

I just found 108mm X 4 pattern to be common (center to center). There is enough beef to gain the 16 mm larger on each hole on most of the alloys. taking at least 5 mm to outside of the saab stud , subtract from 16 would be 10-11 mm away from current saab pattern.... it seems very likely a possibility. I had a set of universal wheels on a 3000lb chevelle that utilized washers on elongated holes to get the pattern correct. I have no doubts about final integrity -- may not even need to elongate holes, just enough to drill more and leave a small space.hmmm... I didn't find a saab alloy I didn't like the looks of from that site.

I spotted an unusual saab turbo driving by a dealership and pulled right in (there's like 1 in 100 cars that catch my eye) but anyway, there was 2 alloy wheels and a 4 bolt pattern sitting next to it. I looked at the other saabs and noticed a familiar pattern. I just checked on the web and lo and behold, they are same? some really sharp lookin alloys on those cars sometimes 5.5 inch == 140mm? check these out: http://jpowell.tripod.com/saab-wheels/

please do! It's documented history! "pictures are worth a thousand words" -- put it in a video, there's not much to say.

He followed me through a slow zone, (small town intersection) than pulled me over, must have been a good mile. I knew I was going to get pulled over due to the speed of his Uturn. He went on to to tell me I continued to do 55 in a 25 but he was giving me a break for the 13mph ticket... I explained my bad speedometer prob, and he listened to that extent.I did get hints on the highway something was unusual through the whole range of speedo, even after it appears to be unstuck. At 70 I am passing a majority, unless it is a summer trip down I-95 in maine (5 cars bumper to bumper doing 100 even is very common -- I want to make the old sube even casually faster top end because of it-- just to get out of the freakin way !).So, needless to say, I count on the tach, stays smooth. Above 45mph I am synchin it in my head. The short vid caught most of the deception, towards the very end speedo snaps to 72 -- and it is still wrong to the taller tires I have. 3rd gear @ 6000 is to be considered 75mph. It doesn't take long to get there either ... surprise surprise . I have gone as far as to compare it to some v8 cars take off , that I have owned.

It has got to be the tensioners -- a freewheeling floater, no torques and pressures. If it was driving anything but air or something soft -- like a long rubber timing belt, it would have revealed a break. The odd fact is that it has been making that noise for years through all weather, engine overheats, etc. I have learned that some very tight tolerance makes noise, doesn't mean it is bad, in the correct places. Ironically, I was sitting on the side of the road revving my car up when I first got it trying to guess what it was (this was over a year ago)... lo and behold a sedan 2wd sube with same color interior and exterior and body style went by with the same exact noise.. before this sube I had never heard it before, and then there goes one driving right by me (I would love to purchase that car from the old person I seem to see all over the place locally driving it -- it is my cars exact twin with a dented fender) .I will keep going with it for 30k more (timing belt due for change then) if no other excuse arises to take it all apart and put one of those timing belt kits in, that has tensioners and belts. I was using wd 40 not as a permalube but to test the noise for a temporary stop. I only use wd40 for breaking free stuck stuff, real grease of some kind is a must do.I used white lithium grease at a quick lube years ago, every car that came back routinely, needed it again. I don't care for that stuff either, except putting an engine together (it simply disapears).Synthetic motor oil in a spray jug makes more sense than either wd or lithium :cool: .

The first realizationthe old sube was quickere than I thought was getting pulled over. I was climbing a steep hill thinkin "I am barely doing the speed limit" and the officer went flying by me the other way-- at the time I was in third around 5500 rpm with a speedo on 55-- he pulled me right over with a uTurn to inform/ticket me for 68mph! I was dumbfounded, not being my nature in the 17 years of driving with no speeding ticket.134 bucks later.. I am still mad as it was the cost of my new radiator

My 2wd non-turbo 5spd going from 2nd to 4th gear, nearly floored. I wanted to capture this, as it is what made me realize my little loyale isn't so slow anymore. The speedo sticks through 45-65, my speeding ticket of 13mph over allowed me to synchronize tach to bad speedo. 3rd gear @ 6000 rpm is 75. Being I have seen even stranger vids of cars, Why aren't there more loyale vids?!:cool: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/147fc907-8117-4497-a76e-980f01104d87.htm

That is a good idea, I got some.. I crawled right underneath while it was running once.. the plastic has got the all clear inside and out (no rubs).I still could not find it. I recently saw a vid on "streetfire" where a supercharger was making an identical noise on a v8. The sound on my engine runs deep.. after losing the crank belt pulley, I got to hear it run with no belts and the noise was still there. Being the supercharger noise came from something with very tight tolerance, I am wondering if it is the oil pump--- I have yet to find shiny things in the filter however. So that leaves belt tensioners, cam pulleys.I have mentioned it before here at usmb, the belt tensioners seemed to be the best logical guess. Whatever it is -- it is in a pair, because there is actually 2 whining noises and a chirper -- maybe both timing belt tensioners. I made humor of it sounding like twin turbos spooling-- under bridges and in tunnels where cars echo-- this thing is screaming loudly.

The sound quality isn't all that good, but is captured. video is aimed at power steering pump. http://media.putfile.com/noiseSube Any ideas? its been doing it for years from what I can gather. Upon changing timing belts , I still couldn't find it. I lubed a/c clutch (external) with wd40 -- wasn't it. Also ruled out power steering...and new alternator. Whatever it is hasn't hurt anything in 27k miles i have driven this car.Take a guess....if you don't know for sure.

Great purchase. Looks good and that mileage is a hard find...There are many little cheap things to do to get it to be a fun car economically. I got a sedan 5spd 2wd similar that needed tlc cheap and hacked some things.Being your a wrx driver, you may be interested in some stuff I found, while your car has low mileage (mine is double your sedan and still strong) .I made a website after seeing these things drive around endlessly as crap boxes and flapping rusty parts and holes with minimal problems for years....all at 30+mpg. oh... the egr took out the clock. You may lose some heater switches next and oem radio is in trouble (you'll slowly find just how hot that engine's top end gets soon enough...) . I noticed the intake boot has the heat sag.Not to be pessimistic, I would enthusiastically love to attack your car! I have not found a 2wd yet that hasn't had the probs I found (and keep going anyway) http://93loyale.50megs.com

I will be purchasing from that place soon, thanks Rllywgn for the link. Hey some more radiator Q's I figured out the one in my DL was a single row all metal. The side tanks must have been the tremendous benefit of cooling. Remembering a problem with old v8's and 4-core vs. 2core where 2 core actually prevailed, is my old loyale going to be in the same predicament? Has anyone upgraded to the 2 core? I thought of the following Pros for 2 core heavy duty: The DL had 4 headlights that leaked alot of air by them, hitting the top of radiator and side tanks unlike the loyale.. this makes it a plus to add one more row of core for the loyale. The DL had no a/c ... again making it a plus for the loyale to have 2 core with condensor installed. My loyale is low to the ground, sitting level or nose down slightly,with a front skirt. a full load in trunk /back seat makes for an even tighter air flow for engine, the slower 2 core to increase cooling is yet another plus for 2 core in my 2wd loyale.The wagon sat up higher all the way around, with plenty of room for more air due to this. Cons: It is a tight fit. The only thing I really need to move is some wiring by a/c fan (luckily) Is the fans enough to suck through the 2-cores hard enough to be beneficial ?(this was the old v8 4core 2core problem). It is quite guided with fan shrouds tight, and water pump fan will be even tighter towards the cooling fins of 2 core. I just want to be certain before ordering. Also, is there a chance for waterpump to create the grains I found that clogged radiator in first place? In some of my older cars this was a true event at any given time to self-destruct the cooling system like my loyale is doing now. I am hoping I just churned some sealer of some kind all around on a long trip (24 hours run time) to clog cooling fins. If it is a possibility, I will throw in a water pump at the same time, and really flush the system good