bgd73

I was out to rotate tires and found this: The white substance is something you find on a battery post (alkalinic). It was on all 4 studs.I knew it was happening to this left rear wheel,fresh painted about a week, getting targeted invisibly electrical (static), long before I painted at it. It finally revealed itself.To understand a bit where I am coming from.. I had a piece of metal in my foot for 9 years after an operation. I had my Subaru DL's No.4 cylinder "skipping" off my bare clutch pedal to the outside of my drivers door with a blue spark climbing off my finger (through my bad foot). I have even followed short circuits with my eyeballs.... I am wondering what makes the ground disperse to a greater area than my back left wheel, next to my shiny new muffler... please don't mention hubcaps . I don't want to go on the 4th set of rear wheel bearings at under 200k . Can an expert guide this static monster to a better place? I have a completely normal running electrical system, everything works great.

Wow. thats over 501k miles. and it is indeed documented - I hope they Keep it running! That's incredible! On a model of sube I would never ever have guessed, or put faith into..... I noticed he could only use his left foot, ironically I could only use my right (disability)

I must have bad pump-- it doesn't even return anything back to tank. after taking things apart- it doesn't even look or smell like it ever had to .On another note- I have never encountered a spfi loyale that did:confused:

It is so very likely... I did learn of some other facts that went with long running cars. 1. The suspension in the back was level or even "drooping" - not appealing to look at by some strange standard that the car jacked up in the back is "cool" (I would swear that came from america's 1960's to influence all over the world as a retarded opinion.) 2. The power to weight ratio was huge, to go along with the same driveline as the same cars "bigger" options, and hindered by CFM, *not* lowering gears.(small car , big engine) 3. Always had a tight exhaust system. 4. The engine is "true" balanced - 90 degree v8, flat four. (there has been freak encounters with an inline 6 "vibrating" its way to high mileage) 5. cooling , by oem, or whatever, was well beyond needed (by normal standards of oem) 6. wheels were steel (very bizarre thing to notice) 7. garaged for the body (even then- I have seen some high mileaged daily driver go to broken in half) 8. high compression n/a intake 9. many parts going with a heavier duty version by oem standards 10. very good grounding electrical, stays ambivalent. By my own realistic thought- a 2wd standard tranny sube should be a candidate, but the egr, cooling killed the thought as well as no driveshaft bouncing the perfectly balanced engine into anghles that should not be happening for longevity. I am convinced it is a boxer four however with the highest mileage.

I found this at guinness book of world records website... http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/content_pages/record.asp?recordid=43579 It is not only preposterous - it gave no details on what stayed original to acheive it.I bet it is just the odometer and thicker irons constantly rebuilt on the old way out-of-balance inline 4 I am just 33 years old, being brought up around long running over-the-road tractor trailers,to gain a strong opinion about vehicles- and what truly strong *IS*.I have gained a factual opinion to be proved. this question *really* had to be answered- "what is the longest running, non-rebuilt, all oem gas engine?" I have spotted a few even in my own time, that proved to be phenomonal. The very small-for-a-v8 engines from the late 60's were known to "rack over" the 5 digit mile odometers several times. My own mother had a 68 ford falcon (289 c.i. v8) that reached 300k+ on a 2 speed powerglide transmission in massachussetts all on 13 inch underestimated wheels (the body completely died- still running with an overheat when I was a small boy in the 70's).The car used to "diesel" after shuttin it off . My mother laughed "I love this car, it just wants to keep on running." A friend local here had an old bmw straight 6 that still "burned the tires" at over 250k miles all original. (on another note- he payed 1500 bucks for it, to find a $28,600 car invoice from 1986 hidden in it - today that car would be called an "m3") Of course my true vote, really needing to be documented somehow, is the smaller n/a EA82. I found 2 so far with the highest mileage I had never heard of, all original, unrebuilt in an EA82 wagon. one was 316k miles and for sale at a local dealer, inspected, ready to go at the road again (I would love to know where that one is today - that was found, oh, 8-10 years ago) The other was on ebay, I thought may have been odom in kilometers (it was indeed miles) from canada with 360k miles in a ea82 wagon. I'm sure some here would agree with me - it is quite possibly an undocumented EA82 with a world record. Some other notes would be, that to be acheived, the car is in the cool northern tier of this world- being garaged away from the bad winters that kill the body.

I think I found a raduiator injury time-related. I had 4 clogged fines below the a/c condensor and the 2 above it as well - exactly where my radiator atayed open to the air. Alot of highway seems to have done it in. Even tho I don't need a heavy duty, I am going for the 2 core all metal, maybe rows of fins caved in over the years perfectly enough to stop flow, due to the very air smashing into it for 13 years. I stay local, no probs. Is it the same for you? (it is the second highway sube that has done the same thing for me)

Upon not understanding weight restrictions in my old DL wagon.... My friend and I were hellbent convinced we could haul an unbored 283 gm smallblock v8 engine in the back with seat down. That particular engine weighed 400lbs with no heads in a small area (heaviest small block by gm- they used this same block bored out, to be the infamous "327"). It did it , and I drove the car for 7 more years before the body broke below my feet, by tranny shifter, and out to the passenger side. Much like driving a tractor trailer, to add 400lbs of steel (its tough to haul- unlike a 400lb fat person)

motor/tranny mounts ok? I was just posting on this subject and thought of yours.. in acceleration/deceleration?

I'm not going for an extreme... the 2wd manual tranny without rear driveshaft needs attention (from brand new). bounces around realistically, with design that it has a driveshaft (the other engine "sway bar") like most subes. The first time I felt it, I could assume my 4wd with same engine was quicker, until I realized how tight this ea82 is in rpm ranges.It fooled me - straight line grab has got a bending blob slob in 2wd only. It really needs to be stiffened, I targeted tranny mount area, as that is where the driveshaft would normally be.Just one stiff mount on torque side snap (right rear mount) would no doubt conquer alot of what I can't describe enough.

Ford Fuel Pump part # 2p74028 NAPA upon search for specs, it seems a bit high pressured. I would personally erase this doubt with another regulator by the current one, leaving in the original unhindered. The result pressure is in the low 20's OEM. original oem doesn't even trigger the euturn regualtor at spfi -- I did it very rarely, and then it made a hissing short noise like a blow off valve.It is to say a pump at 20 or even a bit less would still run the spfi, even lower than written specs. looks like it will fit right in, another usmb regular would know details.

It is physical torque related. On the honda I could see it taking awhile ecu/gadgets. On the sube its 140 ft lbs @ 2800 in , say, .0005 ms and everything else has to catch up with it. Interesting post tho, it is exactly on the other end of a hondas working towards what a boxer snaps to.

time == distance. The builder was very smart.

It is proven just the opposite... from my very first tinkerings with a 327 c.i.v8 that had a 292 straight 6 500cfm single barrell-- all the way to 250k no rebuild (and really flying along to 8k rpms smoothly), or the late 60's "economical" ford 289 v8 with very low cfm and racking over 3 times (300k+) no rebuild. All the way to modern times they all have low cfm in common for an extremely durable life.Even an old diesel rig my father had topped out to 2,000,000 miles on the original block with a restricted cfm that gave it 62 mph. After youth is done burning tires, I hope they wise up to this. How is 40 below on the giant intake plenum doing? What is REALLY overworked? The spfi will be creeping up on your rod smackin, valve bangin,piston popping, fuel pump squeezin back door some time soon....

hey good person to ask- does Advance give under dog companies a chance for cheaper stuff (for consumers risk)? My bro-n-law was manager for several years there. Even he knew there is crap in every pile of stuff. That oil called "mag1" for example... don't put it in the old sube as a engine flush like bottle states- bad news. The first fram I had that caved in may have been several years old, not from advance. As of last year, my frams were indeed orange (3 diff models) - doesn't matter much anymore, advance had the purolator too. I avoided popular opinion yet again, to learn the hard way.. this forum helps me with that all the time

The cut filter in photo is extra guard (NOT tough guard - I just took off a tough guard, no probs, as well as the "start-up" fram before that one)From who knows when and where as it was in my junked sube march 2005 when I inherited it - I also found in trunk an antifreeze not good for aluminum and oil container with a brand name I had never heard of. My car was stopped in time by poverty for awhile I presume....I literally passed this car up after finding this stuff and last minute changed my mind to have the wrecker driver bring it back to the driveway. Good oils and a year and a half with 30k of my own miles proved it to recover well with many repairs (except for engine internals - they just simply calmed down). Point: Good oil/filter isn't just something to talk about.It can make or break even an old sube.

the frams are all orange at advance auto - even the "start up" filter. if to read thru the blur below "FRA" in photo, it is indeed "tough guard" written with the black grip on end obviously cut away. I did notice the purolator is thinner skinned, like crushable as a tin can, but it does help oil cooling this way, just don't put on too tight. A front air dam has me no worries about a pebble breaking it open going down the road (yes. I am a lucky one who went thru that event). I didn't mention the oil side of things - the castrol gtx high mileage 10-30 all year round. Very good to me. The synthetic gives my car a noisy engine - no time to wait for viscosity to get liked and synch in, like I would a transmission.

It is most likely the mounts. the 2wd really wants to move into other angles. This subject brought me back to high school in relation to a newer loyale (only a few years old then). A hell trip through the woods took the right rear tranny mount out badly. He banged it back into shape and somehow had a hockey puck(?) replacing it. - It became one of the crazier throttle responding loyales (just one hacked stiff mount in exactly the correct place). They do *eat* at hard dispersal and keep it that way through the entire curve- (especially 2wd). I just looked on the web at subautoparts.com - found three different motor mounts for xt6-xt-loyale all with same part number and 2 different prices. Anyone know if they are proven different? I even looked up hockey pucks . I do have this unique resin that may fill a drilled existing mount, then put it back together ("plastic weld" - almost pliable)

I really like the idea of it. Over years of production, many makes and models had factory setups - gentle, just for a boost. Mercedes I believe still has a pleasant one. Four cylinders absolutely love to mate with them. Compression doesn't even have to drop much, in event these high spinning gadget fails, car still gets around ok (unlike that crazy freakin turbo:) ). Build an engine correctly n/a-- everything added is indeed a boost (pun intended.)

I just finally figured that out. even spent extra on "tough guard". live and learn. Given this is photo of oil filter after the 3 months worst in maine (dec-feb) where my oil pressure can hit 80+p.s.i. and stay there for 20 minutes at 15 below zero- this should not have happened.Here is a pic of an internally caved in fram "tough guard" filter from my 93 loyale (gently dismantled for photo- this is exactly how center of filter sat in its casing):

It is torque related - engine effort in, final result to the ground. No clutch slip- it is in milliseconds at a time I am sure.Picture what I am saying in slow motion... Adding roof rack rails conquered alot of it on a sedan.. I don't feel it is hitting the ground hard enough for the throttle given. Harder motor mounts on my 2wd? Even a new exhaust system put more to the ground just for the pipes existance. My dl , which petrified, somewhere in the 15 year old range, had incredible results about this "sponge" for its last 3 years,until it broke in front of the seats, to the left and right of transmission (I mean self destructed with one swing of a hammer- "flintstone mobile" instantly) .I couldn't even begin to repair the movement as a result - it even left a large concave dimple in the roof above my head forever- and it was only n/a carbed! Does anyone know what I mean yet? something pliable/forgiving eats engine power- of course it is running decent to get this. I am wondering what else can be done to stiffen engine to body or just the body.Motor mounts bouncing too much could be a big helper to stiffen at the expense of engine in my lap kinda ride....:-\

I have changed my little ea82 ever so slightly in my 93 2wd 5spd. It takes off like a bat out of hell even on the 30mm spfi. I hope I can explain myself in modern english.... for my question. Stomping on throttle from first to whatever is an easily high revving go.. without clutch slip. My strangeness is this-- If I take off slower, I know without a doubt my loyale is doing the same result and it is related to the tranny, not the clutch. It's a rubbery sling shot type feeling some of my higher powered v8 swaps used to return. Upon leveling off , such as the highway I am the first 10-20 miles slowly letting off the throttle for the same speed, like top end gets taller. My DL was even more extreme, hitting 80 at 3000 rpm and fuel mileage unheard of, uphills downhills etc., it just stayed there. Changing fluid doesn't do a thing. Is it tranny design, or can these trannies be done/failing in this manner? I have assumed, they aren't meant to exceed the oem ea82 torque curve without this disturbance. It was rather discouraging to fugure this out, as I am not inspired to make any more power with this driveline.Anyone relate?

Flush it out with old oil/ some engine flush? ( I like its own old engine oil and drain it hot). You had an overheat with bad pump? is most likely the gummer stuck in there. Things will most likely reseat after clean and clean oil, using much less back to normal. The idle looked strong, engine isn't flopping around .My own hasn't stopped less than perfect idle due to an event such as yours and really bad previous owner maintenance- and still keeps quiet and consumption impressive, all by keeping clean/cool internal. I had one overheat (mild) take half a summer to get back to what I called normal. If clean oil releases bizarre engine odors for awhile, you won it back

..and that is the only reasons subes aren't breaking drag times OEM. There *really* ought to be a realm of production just for the true racers (I can dream can't I ). Some of the unlikely things I have done, not even premeditated, avoiding lines drawn has proven it to myself again and again - OEM production enviews your grandma taking off gently with her maltese puppy smiling at the neighbors . Incredible results, the porpoise action I have seen in the real wrx dragracing isn't even noticable on the justy "stubby" unibody length. Clever.

There is a hoax with these clutches..... the clutch too big starts to slip (EXACTLY the opposite of assumption by a majority). A small clutch gets "owned" by an engine - to break something else.Slip is not break- that really has to have deeper thought about your setup. Target anything out of balance/vibrating near clutch in the driveline if problems persist. Engine main bearings, out of tune, tranny with vibrations, even axles wobbling perfectly. I finally figured out on my humble 2wd that the clutch was huge to slip-- and it proved to be true after tinkering. I just saw on the web a super car with an 8 inch all carbon clutch (multi disc) setup on a 200mph top end.Now that is a genius who knows clutches- proving it out loud.

I will no doubt keep it there- the most undesirable sube ended up being my favorite because it is the most misunderstood. I really want a 2wd if to stay ea82. It is so common sense for the little engine to be there now doing as big as it can on the road today.. It truly startled me once things so cheaply hacked came together.It kept up with the best of high expense cars if you know what I mean -- and to chuckle at the 7000 dollars less in fuel I payed over 13 years to be in the same passing lane in an unlikely old car comfortably. Manufacturing for the masses can be a real jackass sometimes. This 2wd (to me) shouldn't have been one of them. I will no doubt add stuff, not all that important, but will keep after it. Besides I still have the one I fixed up on the site, not sure of sale price, etc.I will most likely renew it again next june when the time comes... must have posted here 10 times today.. I really need to get a life.