bgd73

you can challenge the restriction, by ensuring cool air while keeping fuel atomization. Density of air is a sensitive yo-yo. To to keep it steady would actually require a tight intake *and* ensuring very cool air.Intake too big is volume too slow and accepts the engine heat. Tighten it up and engine has no choice but to swallow it down. I actually like the little intake. Very "torquey" once conquered.Unless you run at high rpms at all times, little intakes are very smart if tuned proper. All I did was drill a 2inch hole to outside of fender. The only other prob is the heat from the hotwire maf, and it won't run without it

nice mod! I did similar with intention to keep air climbing in from outside. How does your engine temp do? is it a bit warmer?

I would swear mine expands after winter. I just let it do what it has got to do, then goes back to normal.It even climbs out of reservoir if not just right. Once the summer burp and gurgle sets in, it has no problems.

I am a one man brake bleeder with a cement brick. after I tighten bleeder valve, I put brick on pedal, go back to bleeder valve and let it out. Slow, but with some time on my hands and alone in my work, it got the job done.

ecu's get very freakin slow over 10-12+ years. Patience prevails, learning does happen if everything is hooked up necessary.

I would guess it is leaning out. Mine did that too in 30k miles driven now at 156500 miles . I had fuel problems as well,when I started this project, but can still say for certain it is leaning. Maybe something is clogging up just right slowly. I am over 40mpg on the highway (non- extreme hills , etc.) in my 2wd. The average for city and highway combined is 38 mpg.I even have to have my favorite gas stations still -- it is barely sipping down what seems to have a need to be perfect.My friend had the 4wd that did the leaning out bit and flushing the fuel lines all the way to an empty tank revealed some gas-saving interesting "stuff" gooping out of them. That may be a next step if this goes too far. Although the 30's mpg is in oem numbers realm of things when new.

Given the price of just 18 ounces of 134a "home refill" with a guage, I was just putting fluid in until pump kicked on, then slowed the refill way down until cold air was climbing out on these hot days. The retrofit oil for the conversion is already in, I don't want to start that all over again. Another indicator I was using is the bottle with the glass bubble-- if fluid is spraying through it does not have enough in the system (like I have it now-- until I can be confident with a new a/c condensor). Thanks again, making this DIY project easier . I found releasing pressure, and not the fluid at low-side allows me to make repairs without losing actual oil. Then when adding oil it is still way under the 22-26 oz necessary for fill to get it going again.

Thanks. so the brand suniso and 5gs can be ignored with 134a refrigerant...

I just happened to read label under the hood pertaining to a/c and of course I no longer user r-12, it is swapped to 134a "loosely" (waiting on new a/c condensor). Where does the a/c compressor oil called "suniso 5gs" go? I saw this on the label and drew a blank. My chiltons and other manual does not help.

it is as fixed as it is going to get. Old engines give odors. I only drilled one hole on passenger side to not doubt the tough tone giving an indication that the area I wanted to drill is doing some structural work.I will avoid any more drilling by sealing the hood.It is difficult to stop going into vents/heat but I think I fixed it. Thanks for help.Now onto the a/c repair ... with clean air getting in only .

glasspack works at second cat or resonator, but don't count on the oem muffler staying together for the glasspacks vibrations.Mine literally blew apart on the highway and degutted itslef, left with a dnagling ampty can with rust chunks falling randomly... There are after oem mufflers that work great all over the place. muffler shop is a great idea, they can be ingenuitive cheaply, bending custom pipe etc. and go for welds, avoid clamps."muffler clamp" has a title for a reason, don't put any closer to the engine prior to muffler.The little pipes do alot of work ...

After looking at the seal for hood-- it was barely attached. I also noticed upon closing hood slowly, that it sealed pretty good. The odors for me were happening at slow speed. So,being in good shape, I siliconed agressively the whole seals underside to the body, and am going to drill 6, 3/8th's holes on each side spaced 1/2 inch at spots I asked about in previous post and leave fenders alone. That should do most , if not all, what I am trying to acheive.For future a/c up and running, I must have the cabin air good for my cross country adventures. The engine in the winter doesn't want to do what it is vaporing now in hot summer, this fix should get both. The boxer design promotes this hot flow to the sides,and up unlike the inlines. It will most certainaly have a purpose, without an engine soaking hoodscoop. The upside down flow has been a frustration of mine, on this ,my second sube and 10 years with same prob.

Thanks for input. The oil odor when cars oil gets old comes in the cab and is frustrating. Every thing I have done is for decent air flow to go under the car, it is not happening all of the time. My 2wd sits low in the front, and even lower in the back, and has a front skirt.I first noticed the pressure under the hood releasing at its edges by the corners of the windshield with a little windstorm coming out in the rain drops getting thrashed around.I knew it was hissing from under the hood .It verified how engine odors can come into the cab vis passenger side, heater opening. I could find a way to seal hood better I suppose.. but to witness that kind of pressure whistling out, The bmw's super low to the ground m3 caught my interest as having a decent purpose (if there is one).and thought of top end cooling adds a touch of performance, as I have inadvertantly proven with some other hacks.Thanks again. If it does not hurt unibody, I will drill, and not even go to the outside of the fenders, just let it go between door and fender seams. I finger tapped on the area I wanted to drill to check the tone, and it is indeed tough, giving me doubts about drilling there.

is it safe to drill at end of white arrow? so I can do something like this: I got this idea from a bmw "m3". It will work, if drill spot I need is not going to hurt unibody integrity.No chance for blowby odors again-- among other stinking things ...as well as obvious cooling. Would like to do on both sides of car . The vents in fender would come from another, whatever i find at junk yard or hardware store or your ideas

pics are here: http://93loyale.50megs.com/ntakt.html as for the piping, find anything heat conductively sensitive, aluminum, copper, etc.. It really made a difference. If your rubber intake has a droopy problem, really go over my site and see what I did. Bad air flow is most of the cause, making too much heat, as well as my 2wd being lighter than subaru's mainstream 4wd, and it likes to take off quicker, causing a strain on everything, including cooling.The 2wd Loyale, running good, is comparable to a turbo with engine flow probs.It is well worth the cheap hacks

spfi has to be very tight. one little leak is 10mpg and a moody idle.caused mine to buck and take off fast randomly.The charcoal canister should be monitored too,When all vacuum is good and sealed, and there still seems to be a problem-- also any changes to the system means waiting alot longer than realtime expectations. I pushed my "luck" and changed all kinds of stuff, including leaving egr out forever, with a "cel" light on the same.The ecu was very stubbornly slow curve of learning extra or different. It stays good now at 38mpg (average) on my 156k mile sube.Good Luck. It is a good durable upgrade.

I summed up most of it here: http://93loyale.50megs.com the greatest improvements were exhaust, egr, and intake (spfi as well) The intake bellows with a bit more response than oem. Just right to maintain incredible fuel mileage.It feels like gears are too low if that helps describe it a bit more.High rpms @ 155k miles doesn't seem realistic, so I am leaving the "tiny" spfi setup alone.I really recommend unique changes from oem, especially egr and tiny muffler (if it is the 1.75 inch version). had fun with it, never took it too seriously.

I really like that ride, up to binghamton, went east to albany on a I-88 rally cars wouldn't have even liked it (very very bumpy) I thought I jumped the car a few times at 80! mine loves the 80mph range as well -- it is actually 77-80 on mine due to the tires height. my 2wd loves the taller tires @ 3500 rpm. I am going to step it up again to even taller tires, after the way it handled all the hills/throttle response. I was in my humble glory all by myself out there, on 476 north in pa, when out of nowhere a 5 series black beamer (bmw) passed me doing at least 100 mph @ 5 am when I was still wakin up.The sound of the breeze and realizing I was doing 80 when it went by me was better than a cup of coffee . Empty roads can play on your concept of speed limit after 100 miles straight.It was the only time I regretted my little subes top end cruising speed. I realistically can't complain tho.... I finally got all receipts in bank statement for fuel: 4 stops at half tank filler ups for a total of 29.67 gallons the entire trip, putting fuel consumption at 46.17 mpg and a total miles over estimated at 1360. Incredible. I was by no means light on the throttle the entire trip. I was impressed enough to go get some expensive paint and really do something good for this car once junked.Can't wait to see how it turns out in 2 weeks or so. This free car gave a phenomanol return with my cheap investment, and it isn't even done yet...

there are several reasons the ea82 needs a modern attention. I truly believe there could be one small boxer doing all the bigger engine chores. I keep proving it to myself, with what little i can do to make it better 1. they didn't maximize its capability -- the amount of miles you can rack up on an ea82 proves the easy breathing lifeubaru gave it 2. mistakes with egr, and exhaust system. 3. the intake is very smart -- its size and how it does with fuel/air for torque, response on the spfi. 4.it doesn't need high rpms, just needs taller gears to match (2wd) I'm not at all enthused by the big ones. 1.8 liter is big for a four already. I heard and saw the bigger ones-- there is just something way too big, and they aren't encapsulating it like the ea82 did.they randomize power like a woman's mood swings-- all while advertising something bigger is better. like the discipline of a teen ager who wants fast with no knowledge but hype , noise, and a circus act. the day I get a big boxer is the day I pay next to nothing for it. different weather on that 2.2 litre would have the same chore done without replacing u-joint:lol:

I got restless and just did it. I got in my car (93 loyale 5spd) and drove and drove and drove. somewhere between 23 and 24 hours drive time, a 2hr nap and refuels. summary: start: brewer, me passed through new hampshire by the coast massachussetts connecticut waved to rhode Island went thru the big apple over the gw bridge (what a freakin mad house) went thru the whole length of new jersey, to the south cut across to philedalphia , pa took the pocono mountains road (476) north into new york, for yet more hills, the longest upgrade I could think of, that lasted many miles. went through northern new hampshire heading east after vermont through the best they both had for hills and finally made it home after every touristy mountain trail the northeast could offer nearly non-stop.over 1300 miles in 24 hours. the little buggy had not one problem except for the bent wheel, I bent. 153k miles and 1 quart of oil and "almost" an overheat due to a mod I did at spfi-- of course almost doesnt count . In places where defense and 80mph on your bumper is quite threatining in a car that isn't enough-- this car proved otherwise, much more than enough.fuel mileage was incredible, averaged over mid 30's.If it was oem running , I wouldn't have bothered. My hacking has proved itself. Common sense hacking prevailed with this common sense engine/drivetrain.it is the reason I really wanted to drive and drive through this tough test, and it passed with great results. long live the little ea82!

to bring closier to this thread: the new walker muffler 18153 part # fit better than oem and has 2 inch in and out fixing the way too restrictive OEM original. The tailpipe is a straight shot for the curve built into the body, it even looks better than oem. I haven't noticed any power decrease either, and after full warm wasn't nearly as "on fire" as oem. this is pic before hanger welded

Does anyone have a video of a custom loyale? takeoff, sound and speed etc of a street more than offroad? I never saw one.... I know there is some quick ones out there, not even turbo'd. My own old 2wd loyale with over 150k surprises the hell out of me sometimes, with just a few simple cheap mods.I know now it is ecu related non-hackable probs. Would love to see the the higher comp run sooboutlaw . It is a similar motivation to what I haven't acheived yet. I may make a show and tell vid just for fun, as I have never seen one . The more I look around at the high revving lunacy of newer 4 bangers with crazy exhausts and wings on the back , 2 inches off the ground screaming holy hell to get to 60...with an engine bigger than 1.8l 4cyl the more I think my old loyale is a genius, just by manufacture , and even with its few serious mistakes hindering performance. I straight faced mean what I just said. For all humble 1781 cc-- Subaru coulda shoulda and woulda done something incredible with the EA, and didn't.

I had met someone who used to do that on purpose to change orientation of cylinders smacking the old bearings to go easily over 220k miles. Of course it didn't fix the other probs, but I really can't disagree with his point made... :-\

The old subes blow it out when they need too I just blew the guts out of my 93's muffler on the highway saturday. A pipe slid right out of the muffler like it took a turd! luckily I was at a rest stop and it happened as I was looking at it .Luck was with me. I have never heard anything like it ( I am 33 and travel nearly everyday to say this). I had put a glasspack to replace resignator and now it is running on that and a hollowed muffler-- nearly a full system , except for the exhaust tip/tailpipe. I don't even want to fix it, it sounds like a low rpm version of an exotic engine, all its own.I really have to record and post the sound here. Of course I have heard broken exhausts many times, but I really mean unique with this one. It is as if it hollowed out *exactly* what it needed at the end of the exhaust system. I would love to quiet it down just a tad what it has for backpressure , but it is always a guessing game:-\ it is quieter than a harley...I think I'll just run it! it is quite a stinker, if it is original and just breaking open after many years, but stench goes away...

This is the new muffler, the outlet is 2 inch. Where should the hole be (arrow)? The way it sits in picture is way I am installing to get straight shot for straight tailpipe.