bgd73

uhm... if your engine needs one, isn't time for valve seals and rings, head gaskets? The day my old ea82 needs something like this, is the day it is not going to be run for very much longer .

My loyale slipped too, and even my old cool running dl had its spells. Remembering my old neighbors 79 sube and constant clutch probs--- Don't just up and replace it. Could be as simple as something tiny debris stuck in there, hill holder, engine heat the guage doesn't get, bad tranny fluid, air flow problems, radiator, even thermostat. Leaky a/c getting in there does bizarre things.(any oil). Front end sitting higher than the back end is a phenomanol "middle of the engine" heat maker, causing clutch probs. Odds are its pretentious. At 103 k, I am willing to bet, is *nothing* but a bad spell. To take the clutch out and look it over and find nothing is frustrating. The more miles to bake it in, needs more miles to hold it -- then off to more miles than ever for durability. It can be acheived by just driving around and finding that point of slip and work it after all adjustmnets and fluids/cooling tune-up are good. Bad resonance on a clutch is bad. causing bad resonace can be as simple as a weak spark plug. My last spell with my current loyale was on the highway running warm and timing belt on one side off a tooth-- I floored it and let it slip till a burn smell and it grabbed. Replacing the belt and timing it brought another spell with clutch and I did the same thing to buzz it back in. I can literally go burn the tires now, and it never happened again. Glazed clutch parts aren't bad once you get grip -- its pricelessly durable. . It is quite a precise game with it. I first learned it in an older tractor trailer with ceramic coated clutch parts. Every time an injector went bad, clutch slipped. I applied this resonance/power theory to my cars ever since.It is very much the same. I bet a clogged air filter could change old clutch enough to be problems...

I suppose that would be final answer. I have learned on other cars the same thing with a/c. Once completely opened, it needs the pro the first time to clean it up and get it going, then going about recharges is ok on my own, or simple quick repair if I had to open. Swapping out condensor is a big move, and I had it out for awhile with open pipes just taped over. Oh well -- The most expensive a/c repair I have had yet. Today will most likely be the only day at 90 with high humidity for rest of summer here -- but where I would like to travel to needs it.I found this cars interior to be one of the hottest especially out on the road (I have had 12 to conclude this:mad: ). I remember being at a stop in a traffic jam on a very hot day, high humidity, in an 87 DL with no a/c. I literally had to pull over and flop over in some shade first chance I got because of the ill heat. A/c was critical.. I swore to myself, even if I don't use it locally but for a hot month-- where I go to will.Just 200 miles south of my place is a different world of weather. Even my car reacts ill to it sometimes. Thanks for help.

quite ingenuitive, imaginative. Modern look reminds of a dodge hemi wagon in the front. Some tasteful fog lights below headlights with air ducts for rotors/axles combo would satisfy my only problem with it.Maybe a middle duct longer for oil pan, steering rack, etc. and a rubber skirt to hit the extra low things. It reminds me of how caught up I get on factory parts -- this one went on its own. Nice work, must be very patient.

Excellent! That is the same type of rad I had. Half full even in summer, that car wasn't going to overheat. The radiator you found is no doubt similar -- it is even all metal. Thanks alot! I seached and get vague picture , description and part #'s non-oem to sit there and scratch my head.all except the price (go figure). It is no doubt a clog I have got. The channels exposed to aitr get cooler, shrink, then get bunged up first. The middle of old rad is still hot, not quite enough after 20 miles at 70mph(the overheat is that slow....) Thanks again.

Just when I thought I was done..... I had a mysterious overheat with no fluid consumption, after putting in a/c condensor.familiar with this very-long-run-to-overheat prob, I flushed radiator after finding metallic granular shiny sand stuff (very small granular). Someone along the way thought they could stop a leak with this crap. Anyway, overheats didn't stop. So I took a bottom fin (useless) off the condensor except for the very middle of cooling channel to maintain structural integrity, figuring the bottom of condensor is always under the least heat/pressure. It helped but didn't fix. Now here is my big Q-- After placing my hand on bottom 3-4 rows of radiator, it is same temperature as air going through it, after engine is at full temp. Are the most important rows clogged? by reason it should be the hottoest rows, right out of hot engine, and they aren't. Any ideas? I did run a garden hose through with petcock open, I may have made it worse. How much pressure can I apply to the radiator before I break it, to get the grains of crud out? Also, My old dl had a monster radiator in comparison to this loyale. Anybody have a part# So I can shop around? The DL was an icebox to the point of needing cardboard on the rad in the winter, with a thermostat installed.Would love that kind of cooling again with this loyale and Hot A/C condensor. Thanks for help- this place and advice has literally kept my car going.

I guess I'll try for the bottles again... This brings me back to a similar scenario on another car-- the diy bottles did not work on a super tight system. The pros that filled it took an hour and a half. This old sube seems to take it right in with pump on, so I'll go at it again. Is there a particular brand of refrigerant that is proven better? I had 2 different 18oz bottles and one in particular did way more, proving there are differences of 134a.

I called an a/c expert at a radiator shop and was informed of some things... The do it yourself bottles are at least 6% air and contaminate the system.The so called conditioners and sealers are bad as well for system, it gums things up. It explains the long runs and not kicking back on again (the air is a spongy killer) even with the guage reading the system is full. So guages were correct, what I had in system wasn't. The total cost for this is more than all other parts combined on my free loyale --- $55 napa convert kit with a few bottles of 134a and retrofit - that all leaked out when bad condensor revealed itself. $22 for another bottle of 134a - that all leaked out finding another bad condensor $45 another condensor that worked $14 conditioner and sealer $75 more fluids to bring tight sytem back to full -- system wasn't correctly filled with 134a $125 quote to get it drained and refilled professionally -- I truly don't even know how long system will hold it. ________ $336 total. I am sitting next to my 12000 btu giant home a/c in my window for 6th year summer flawless running, for around the same price... Is my car's a/c worth it?? and to know the real hot weather is a rarity where I live, and doesn't last all that long.I will get it going however for the sake of "everything works":banghead: Is there a better way than professional refill, and the diy bottles?

I'll have to remember the napa deal... I resorted to high temp grease by valvoline and glided 7 miles It was just for cv's and high temp scenarios with discs hubs etc. Great stuff on new bearings/cv's -- the old ones can reject it by getting too sloppy after the cool lube down of good grease.My front end is on original bearings and it only slopped around cool for a little while.. it is nice now on the synthetic stuff. My first sube came from the dirt back parking lot of the gone bankrupt "village subaru" on hogan road in early 97.The place is a freakin lit up super-sube center now all paved and large garages where mud used to be for the old rustbuckets to sell cheap The only thing remaining on my present sube from my first purchase is the 19 year old windshield and the *exact* non-duplicated service sticker by village subaru reminding of an oil change due in Jan 1997 (they were belly-up by then) .I noticed it after swapping windshields and though ''momento"-- I hope it never falls off .

Hey, that is priceless info. I am in fact copying it to a text file... My a/c is doing something odd, and what you have mentioned is last resort. It acts too high pressure , shuts down after a long "first" run. doesn't come back on until I do so, then it only stays on a few seconds again. this is after realizing pressure was way too high-- once the 134 gets agitated it really wants to stay there. When it is all calmed in the morning if it even calms down I bet pump stays on for quite awhile again. I just now ran it until the windows fogged (dewpoint is in high 60's -- I am stinkin :-\ ) and I caught a chill, before it never shut off. Then it shut off and doesn't want to stay on now. I will first take it to an a/c expert just for pressure checks then I am stuck with the old subes parts and switches to diagnose what is next. Thanks alot, info is very helpful I may be surprised to find over 30oz (should be 22-24)

thanks for replies. It was indeed an overfill. Rapid expansion after filling changed guage reading by triple over fill.. if system could handle that, I'm sure I'm all set. Also cleaned the aforementioned sensor and aligned closer.Now one more Q-- is the pump supposed to stay on all the time? that is what it is doing now. I thought it shut off once and awhile, and kicked in on its own again.Oh, well, its workin Thanks alot! I can't wait for the hot muggy days ahead.

That is a very good start. I am used to car a/c taking a few moments to get cool, I am getting blasted with very cool. The pump did kick off while I was putting more in, so the guage would read on the higher side of full. Will try to let some out and post again...

Here is the short history of my diy a/c fix: Found a/c condensor at junk yard today - less than half the cost of new with a guarantee. A/c condensor worked -- did lose first attempt at filling system due to a rubber grommet I forgot. Replaced rubber grommet and added refrigerant again (134a) and guage said level is good. It has been about 7 hours since fill up and pump kicks on for a few seconds and then it won't come on again. Guage shows system is full on the refrigerant bottle. I also added conditioner/sealer kit for 134a system and let it run for the 15 minutes it required. there is no audible/visible leak, and for the few seconds the pump comes on, the idle kicks up a bit like it is supposed to, and the air gets cold fast. Do I need to take it to a shop or what else can I do at home? Any help appreciated. BTW-- it is the very last part required to have my 93 loyale complete and error free (finally).

I suppose there is crap in every pile. I do have one with 60000 miles and counting that started on a bent 87 4wd that only drove the front right tire (front diff stuck?) it came from, now on my 2wd with 30000 racked up there...I am lucky:grin: It is just now starting to click above 85 degrees on a full right turn only. So I bought a driver side one... Advance did give me the wrong one at first, at the time by bro-n-law worked there. Completely wrong right down to spline count and comparing appearance How are the axles at ccr? I like the thought of painted , until I think of heat and electrical dissipation.

After getting the www on my first pc 8 years ago... I almost want to vomit at the thought of vehicles so common sense overseas it frustrates me. Even ford and gm have some very interesting models (ie: Some AUS vehicles).The conservative is missing in usa, and what they think is fast is a sideways out of balance lop-sided v6-v8 FWD. The rarity of common sense RWD for the bigger engines is ridiculous. Long live the old sube (and alot of foreign others for that matter) !

I instantly thought of the old beetle bus.The tires are tiny. I wonder what it has for an engine. Seeing the tallness of the van, I wonder if it went low boxer engine center of gravity...

Hello fellow maine-iac. They go along way on cars that need alot to keep the cv's good, only if they are lucky. I buy local cv's at advance auto, so far they are proving to be good.Your car must have had a decent life if from local.Good luck in your old sube

Subaru was way cautious and conservative. Gaining 20hp with simple stuff is easy. Pushing limits in any ea82 is revealed by heat.

Venturi works good on spfi. The end result going into intake needs a stubborn, fast flow to get any true benefit of cool air intake.without restriction, but for venturi flow purpose only.Just opening it up into a sloppy open mess doesn't do any bit of good but make noise-- ya gotta make it flow to benefit. Don't even bother getting air inside engine compartment. You have good ideas there...

Car is nice shape.It sticks out like a sore thumb among the american classics. Were you ther only foriegn one?

It raised the exhaust pipe temp, and it made it slippery for air flow to increase and keep top end cool, which in turn drops temps more and keeps air flow increased into the tiny spfi and intake for a bit more power.Also keeps engine vapors down and away from cabin air ducts in back of the hood forcing it underneath the car. Hot pipes==clean pipes== more flow from pipes diameter for more years, not to mention emmission helper for the cat, and sending some heat to the muffler to keep moisture evaporating, promoting longevity. I have spotted those dangling exhaust pipes since these cars were new and just shook my head in disbelief and wondered what Subaru forgot to put on the bottom to keep it protected.After spotting an RX spoiler kit and the holes all subes have pre drilled to accomodate them, I just simply compromised and made one. Also here in maine, going down the main road at 50 mph in 10 inches of snow is common. Having 600 degree pipes smashing into a never ending supply of cylinder head cracker (snow over 6 inches deep) is not a bright idea.Along with iceballs falling from fenders of cars in front of you, and rigs right out out of the woods with half the dirt road stuck to them, and on and on and on.I haven't needed a y-pipe yet, unlike my other dangling old sube I probably forgot a few pros to this, and can't think of any cons yet. The grill with the slot hacks is great. I went down the highway at bent wheel shaking 85 for a few miles, and what I gained on the needle stayed consistently gained. I am assuming my non-hotrod sube had a heat riser type grill to go along with the suicidal EGR . No more probs there... I think I am finally done with the chores on this old free sube.. holy cow!(for now)

my vote is the black .. I lowered my sedan, (same colors btw) , after seeing your pic, I'm goin even lower in the front. looks good

the wire mesh would break up the air-- that seems logical. Mine is stubborn as heck and wants the guiding type fins. I ended up cutting slots and leaving the middle rib between them for support, it is still strong-- kinda like how it looked.Between the slots it is tightly guided.Reminds me of an older Nissan Pickup grill . Dropped temp two widths of the temp needle or so -- Someday it will be as cold running as my old DL

The math to acheive 8.25 opening is incorrect-- this is the way it should have been (.375*22)/3.14== 2.62 inch opening, which isnt very much. 42 holes would bring it to over 5 inch opening dispersed. Forgive my boredom, I have some time on my hands today . I'm off to get 42 holes drilled in my perfectly good "little sube" grill. Unless someone has an rx part no. for thiers....?

I added a bit more intake, a bit more exhaust.. and uh oh.. a bit more heat. I took the grill out as an experiment, the car actually likes the guiding fins, it got hotter without the front grill.:cool: So to maximize an OEM grill , I drilled 22 3/8th inch holes 1 inch apart,in a spare grill, and let the bit be the same angle as fins below them, to guide air, for a total of an 8.25 inch opening, dispersed, right at the top of a/c condensor, and just below the top of radiator. I may bevel the outside of holes to funnel it in. The black grill with black background, makes the holes hardly noticable. I just saw Subarutex's well opened blue rx grill up close (nice car btw ) and it got me thinkin.... Anyone have an rx grill to sell cheap?