bgd73

I have always wanted to see pictures like you posted. nice. Can I save one of them ? Your photo revealed a hunch about a difference I found in the bellhousing- just in front of the shifter..on my 93 2wd. This difference, ironically, is where my dl broke the body on both sides. Can I use one of you photos for arrows and lines drawn for reference to my own loyale?

An EGR valve gone wrong can do that too. Excessive engine heat can cause it as well. even a lean condition (odds of this perfection unlikely) can heat the heads into a poor flow and cause the top end goop. My 2wd had goop all the way to the maf from inside the engine, not the outside world. cleaning that maf is very responsive ...

this would be impossible to nail down exactly... what if to say.. signs that parts are going, and document it yourself? I too worked with aircraft, inspections. The big thing is inspections, no set intervals for repairs, unless deemed to be that way, even if unnecessary. But we aren't running airplanes heh?. Cars are unpredictable. The only interval I agree with on the soob ea82 is the timing belts. I have had too many overlasting or underlasting parts to even think of intervals. fuel pumps for 17 years- and failing in another younger, timing belts vary- lean conditions, bad oil habits change that dramatically. water pumps where I live squeeze out a few drops in mid winter frigid... it does not mean bad. That tolerance is almost welcome, come warm weather. I even have noisy tensioners and pulleys- exactly conformed, still lubed, for my crazy environment- another person may change them. Rear bearings on 2wd will make noise at lower miles than expected- go with anything but oem when it does it... whatever the miles/years are. Since we aren't running aircraft, taking the full realm of its disciplined maintenance is absurd. Go with the flow man, chill out. Everything on its way to failure gives a sign... everything. Even if you can't find the domino effect that led to a particular parts demise, for seemingly no reason, at first glance. For me personally, even the only timing belt I broke, under the 60k interval, was when the fuel pump broke at the same time. Lean condition, before no fuel at all, snapped it off from heat of slowly dying pump affecting the heads.. See what I mean? it is a "go with the flow" kinda car.Unless you have the Federal Aviation Administration grounding all subes because one broke a rotor and crashed- I would really relax...

I can't tell if it is attached to fuel pump directly.It is a fuel damper. there should be another under the hood by the spfi. If there is one, you can surely find a way to work around it, after taking it out.If it is one on the fuel pump, it will require some ingenuity. There is someone here who posted it on thier website, clever way to save the pump while doing away with unnecessary damper.I recently removed one in the same spot, it was hanging out in the open like yours, and rusted, not attached to the fuel pump.

I bet it does get something unusual this year. just 2 hurricanes isn't enough to satisfy the yearly clash of arctica moving in for mid-september. Just two states away... an old soob could rack up more miles, less rust and leave this place a blank in its cleared memory. I think I have the toughest car in the world. Even if it broke today.

That is exactly one of my points. It isn't legal to do, but it is a point worth proving out loud somehow. My 2wd is faster than cars that it shouldn't be all on the 30mm injection. It is ridiculous sometimes, the stampeded opinion and lack of knowledge throws things away if it means being abusive. I would love to see a top end vid of any loyale or gl/dl for that matter. I have found some autobahn rides with a wrx, but it isn't exactly my pursuit.For history's sake....

some hardwood "luan" thin plywood epoxied clear or whatever should work. Use the old one as outline. just as thin and wood takes to strong plastic type paint, to be stronger than oem. I too am missing one, and the side ones are warped, and they soak in all oil fluids and anitfreeze and stink for several years plexiglass would be good too, if it doesn't get too cold where you live.

I do too. I really like the real late season ones... its windy and warm. then the everlasting arctic battle making the tropic storm a pansy with yet more winds from the NW, sometimes until there is ice keeping the windows and doors stuck on the old soob/household.It is only #2 named hurricane that is going to fly to the east of Maine this year so far.. If trends of repeating patterns are proven this year will be getting a warm storm late season. A nasty ice storm for us.The craziest time I had was ignoring High Wind Warnings and hanging out in a 1946 camper- it climbed to 50 degrees in January, with low level lightning, high winds, thunder , ice, rain, hail, and finished off with blizzard like squalls with icicles going sideways - and back down below zero in less than 48 hours after nothing dried into frozen solid.tress cracked like glass, and strange noises from the old soob for a week. 4x4_welder: I hope you have no regrets about moving from Maine. I am as optimistic as it gets to declare this northern New England state called Maine one of the top ten worst places for its given latitude to attempt to live peacefully - in comparison to the entire planet! Year 14 on an unrebuilt car is a freaky miracle.. it just happens to be the little ea82 subaru. I hope the newer ones last this long, but with all those little gadgets and more moving parts and litres of displacement proving to be a bit too intrusive with Nature... long live the EA82 soobs.

ohio is like bermuda to maine I was born and raised just 2 states from where I am now... this place is incredibly cold in comparison. I catch it all the time beating out "the icebox" of minnesota for low temps.I have a cousin in Alaska, who says it is warmer there by the pacific, than it is in northern new england. Just today, I had the A/C on. Now I am searching for 70 on the thermostat. This place proves the old sube to be extraordinary. No bragging, just the facts. 38mpg at a time when gas is higher than ever, in a place sucking down petro like there is no tomorrow...the sube rises above- not to see much eye to eye in comparison to the consumption (if you know what I mean). I don't think I could ask for much more, from an old car so cheap,even if a millionare. I hear the headers, and bigger vehicles loving this weather. It is cool with oxygen. Even the old sube responds to it. Before ya know it,though, the bigger vehicles will be sucking down 3 gallons on a cold start and won't be having much more power than a little engine to make it even worth to run. Oxygen lessening and cold by december. I remember my v8's in embarrassment. they pretty much died in it.Live and Learn. Giggle at the hemis in the 14th year of an untouched ea82 of any repair, and still know it is going to run.. I think I just caught a chill... that hurricane by bermuda is suckin on the arctic already.

Anybody relate? I dream of packing the little sube up and heading south like a lone wild goose. Or maybe just putting the coffee on auto for 5 am just so I can start the car and watch the white smoke, and check for exhaust leaks.. theres got to be some optimism to this... what is it?

being a 96 just might be old enough to have an old sube prob I have run into twice, it is a tricky one. The bottom of the windshield loses seal and never leaks... I found it after removing windshield.the winter i am assuming is the cause, and defrost being very close to the bottom of windshield gets the most heat pushing on windshield, as well as the dew inside dripping down to where windshield seals when there is no heat. I have encountered this on more than old subes with some years on them. i hope for the newer design of outback models sake it isn't the problem, but mentioned it anyway.

I used a 56 ohm- and it did get quite hot. I will scrounge around for two more solenoids. the egr won't ever work again, but I really want the other to function. So, I am scrapping the resistor idea, unless i kill both solenoids. thanks for help- and sorry for robbing a thread

being as I put fluids in trunk, like anitfreeze and a full gallon of oil (I ruptured an oil filter:eek: been cautious ever since) I have already found its containers flaws with a drop or two on the rubber mat. I forgot to mention electrical too avoided. heat in cabin, cold trunk, and hairy staic lightning fibers only thing seperating them. I bet it holds speakers for a long time now. if wehat is put into trunk is steel, it won't act like the unibody as well, quite seperated. I would have scrapped the oem carpet if there was one...

nice views for the trip. The 2 core radiator would have been a nice thing to pay 40 bucks more for than a regular hey? (My only non-oem upgrade soon) Even my 2wd shows it on the guage to be getting a bit warm on long grades. At most I turn the heat on defrost high, and crack the windows and its conquered to normal. Hope your repairs go ok.

those little pulleys around the timing cover and even external pulley tensioner for a drive belt is the smallest/first thing to make noise. Mine has sounded like a supercharger for many years now, being error free, it is just a unique sound. Can you record it?

Ever since the glasspack, mine found things too, that never rattled. I like the idea of keeping that 13 yr old unibody buzzing.Around 300 rpm high torqued found things vibratable I didn't know could buzz . Anything petrified won't be a sneak and fall off to the buzz. I recently found my bumper falling apart in the back. All in one season.Finds the bad steel.The kind that would look good until you shatter it with a hammer like glass. I would like to get this 2wd for top end on vid.. alignment is good enough to take my hands off the wheel at high speed. I haven't had a 4x4 go that straight after this many years and miles. I am going to just post them on the web for whatever they are worth.

that means the heads are happy. I found the same cracks on v8 gm.. if it has got them, it is a happy head. most likely content. I found some that intentional grooved between valves, later year heads. Some designers knew it was inevitable.

neil diamond "song sung blue". I chuckled at how catchy it stuck in my head too.. The rpms are very friendly for a four cyl, it no doubt keeps my interest in it. I will make another goofy vid from first to fifth gear in 3 seconds from a stop. It is kinda funny how this engine just takes it.I may get the coins to rattle in the coin tray as it slowly winds up without giving up... lately without a ping....

I get over 40 with 160k not far away... My Dl freakishly went into the high 40's and 50's. Get "the pig" out of the engine, without opening it up much. It is a miracle for the ea82.Clean clean clean. my current loyale , when I first got it,with a timing belt off a tooth and egr failing, still stayed in the high 20's with the smell of fuel that made me keep the window open. I have seen this posted before, and the majority it seems, averages it out to low 30's. I have had 2 freak soobs apparently . my fuel mileages are incredible, and not too shabby on power either, well over 100k miles original.

Being a "weirdo", declaring the EA82 a classic to be is quite ok. I am going to make more vids with facts I believe are unique for this engine. It is quite amateur but I don't know vid making http://videos.streetfire.net/video/b346c16f-1716-46d8-be06-983700a564b1.htm I request, as usual, the other street ea82's like xt,rx etc. on vid. Can't seem to find enough of the video,for the humble worth.

What lined the tunks originally? was it carpet? I inherited one with what goes underneath a carpet, and it really like fluids- never let go of them.I have since put this rubber truck bedliner in over the soft wooly stuff. It took 1.5 years later to realize the importance of whatever was missing.. (vibrations and noise)- not to mention the heat being effective at cold.What was original? Now that this sedan is "a classic", I can't even find one to check. 13 years where I live is an antique.

I found some stuff that is really killing sound/vibration for a truck bed liner, it is like rubber with nylon threads in it. After taking 200lbs out of the trunk:eek: I put this in. It really deadens sound. I bet it even keeps the fuel cooler, steel tougher.

holy cow! I thought my own obsession was extreme with something similar. Is that engine higher performance? It looks as though you are stopping it from attacking you. Those plug wires are going to last for 50 years! Getting beamed by noise is a real nuisance, glad you found a way to stop it.

ok, a few q's. This isn't going as simple as it sounds. The resistor stopped one code for the egr solenoid, now the other solenoid has an error. does it need two resistors the same to fulfill the trick? I would like the one going into evaporator to function. I am pretty sure it does , but the resistor tricked ecu into thinking it is bad. Is it really bad? I saw the plugins for egr and the other solenoid are different, could I hook up the egr one to the other? if so, I can grab any one thats easier off of another soob someplace, only if I don't need two resistors, meaning no solenoid valves at all. :-\ I can tell when the one dealing with vacuum on the evaporator has a prob. My fuel tank really does use it. For months at a time there is no sign of it, that is how I know that one valve is good, and wanted.

I give up. I am putting black electrical tape over the light. code 34 or 35 back and forth. To heck with it.