bgd73

I thought of every means to bolt back end of radio up to hold it and .. there isn't a way I can think of. To let the screws mounted in plastic do the job will not last. I already have broken holes where original subaru radio cover mounted. Any ideas?

Too bad it was spray cans! A good spray gun can really get it on there for a looong time. Two different worlds of painting, even with same color. The cheapest way out I found was a small 20 gallon tank at 50lb pressure and a 20 dollar spray gun. It is so worth it. Spray cans add something, even a rust accellerant. I have never had luck with it, unless whatever was being painted with cans was out of the weather. I Like the black wheels with the army color. If to get a spray gun, there is some incredible chemistry out there to put on the car. web searches find alot of good stuff.

I put a half cup or so of synthetic. I can't wait for the noise of full synthetic to stop after swapping from 13 years of regular burnt stuff... Compromised.

nice offset. Better than pugs.

the one showing salvaged illegal?

If it is happening while engine is running only, could be inside the muffler. Last stage before they fall apart. 40mph has engine in an rpm speed that may cause it...? I had bizarre noise there too, the whole time it was the muffler vibrating to something. maybe the rear end vibrating metal?

My 87 dl had plastic mudflaps in the back. It ate the rear quarters at a young age.I eventually used them to hide the body problems, for they were that tough. My 93 loyale needs something back there, it has nothing. All summer with body work, and one trip down a gravel road at high speed revealed a rear quarter in need of help. Should I softer mudflap than old dl or no mudflaps? One way or another it is taking a beating someplace. The stuff I have in mind is for a truck bed liner, I used it for floor mats and have some left over. Very tough. It outlived the Chevy "C" or "K" series pickup truck it came from by about 20 years(go figure!), and I even found it outside sinking into the forest floor.

Even the old subes did the same thing. I put new rotors on and smacked one with my framing hammer unintentionally.Now intermittent shake. To spin it around and look at it visibly, there is no sign of it. Rotors being guaranteed for life is makin me lucky... Is there a part besides an ea82 crankshaft out there, that I can't break with my framing hammer ? I also had a bent rim that I turned into a really bent one trying to fix it myself... steel and signals at wrong times, wrong places, can do alot of damage , from a nuisance to catastrophe. All with a hammer.. They make it tough, it becomes toughly bent. No win situation .

you did mention all the money I never wanted... So I will further encapsulate the details... The new 120 v6 by adept airmotive for airplanes would go into my other loyale. The last true flat-four three main bearing chassis, would get the first true balanced aviators 120 v6 . Just snip out the bellhousing a little bit, hook up a gm auto tranny the 320bhp and let her fly at low rpms around the tiny mistake riddled STIs http://www.adeptairmotive.com/site/awdep.asp?dealer=5824&depnum=10765

I have yet to see one there, fellow mainer, with high miles, and staying content. I could have several in my yard broken, as of now, just from acquaintances.Am I in the "newer Subaru Killer" county of Maine or what? What is up with the exhaust systems, *never* content.. Maybe it needs an even bigger intake manifold and more moving valves in the heads to "fix it". Not to mention all the little rinky dink "little big" thoughts by engineers who forgot about places that need strong cars, like my area. The loyales , body permitting, are still the greatest sube ever. Upon great enthusiasm to get a newer one, I have yet to even here a quiet one! The engine noises are absurd. To further satisfy my opinion unintentionally, My 2wd all oem 90hp Loyale was faster than a 2.2 AWD impreza automatic ! Go Figure! Am I just unlucky? or are you full of crap?

It also stated the 555 v version had water injection. Blue printed engine to stronger tolerance (cosworth crankshaft?). No matter what other version your car has some nice numbers. Its the limited edition "The Suberdave" . After finding the Cosworth crankshaft.. I almost became a fan of the crazy 5 bearings. http://www.cosworth.com/shop_item.php?productid=384 seeing 3500 dollars for something subaru should be doing is sickening.

I had a difficult time finding stuff. I needed a quarter panel. I knew they existed , but it seems it is hard to find a supplier, as years went along.Anybody have other links? This one is great: http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/subaru.html I sent an email to verify list is stickable, or in stock. Will know for certain today. The above link was scarce on loyale gl/dl 85-94 but there is a place that has rockers if willing to wait a few weeks: http://www.millsupply.com/ I have an email quoted:

this thread interested me . I went for a web search and lo and behold, I found another swap, to an ej20 from 2001. It looked like suberdave's car colors, it turned out to be another swapper. 112kw == 150 hp, it was acheived at 7200 rpm. Suberdave's is more powerful. http://www.funonwheels.net/photos/poweredbywrx/dynoresults.htm above link is dyno chart below link is if your interested in the car: http://www.funonwheels.net/photos/poweredbywrx/index.htm The conversion site is useful too (kw to hp, etc.): http://www.statman.info/conversions/power.html Does your ej20 have extras? The power difference is huge to the one I found. Including the rpms to acheive what you did.

I would make cylinder heads, hemispherical combustion chamber . Single overhead cams remain, with a rocker arm out to the nearly upside down exhaust valve... with the cam riding intake side directly.The spark plugs go to the center of the heads chambers.I would keep the mpfi intake (it is huge believe it or not.).I would have pistons to match the chamber design at 10:1 non-turbo, and 9:1 turbo. Then I would make a crankshaft squeezing out my own "stroker" version of an EA82 in its current block- even if only a few millimeters.. Allow the old dog to climb to 9000 rpms. I would put the 3.454 final gear in a 2wd, then make special mounts mimicking the stabilizing driveshaft of a 4wd - to hold it steady at the back of the tranny. For injection, the aftermarket hacks with ECU, etc. And Then....Keeping the 13 inch wheels due to the low geared top end of under 150mph, play around with 0-60 times on the 1.8 liter boxer (not rounded up to 1.8 liter- maybe even rounded down) that could. On three main bearings forever.

That is good stuff. I was hoping for engine mounts. My 2wd is a Lunatic. Got 90hp?! There is some stuff you can do to the spfi... it needs patience and ingenuity. The rubber intake boot is absurd, on any engine.The EGR if voted good or bad, has proven to be an engine killer. There is alot of things to do to keep it good, which also keeps power decent. This forum has posts all the time. Sometimes repeating, if you forget (like I do)

nice! You proved OEM in a different place out loud. I have to run away with a copy of the photo!

I found my old timing belt in the trunk with over 200lbs of other stuff (all in my droopy 2wd sedan). Upon closer look and remembering the worst engine trouble I had , was a belt that skipped a tooth. I had just got the car and had to drive it for over 650 miles , without much trouble, except engine louder than normal. What would 1 timing belt across the whole thing have done in the same scenario? I don't even want to think about it...

if it sat for awhile through storms and temperatures, could be possible nothing wrong. Was the container it was drained into clean?

What is the official date for change on this? My guess is 1987 like grossgary's experience, and a little bit of my own.... There is another thread here attempting to doc changes.. this would be a decent fact to remember. I am still getting no replies about ecu parts... its frustrating and enlightening all the time with this range of ea82 years. They did indeed change things as time went along, all while possibly looking the same from a distance.I have even argued until actual photographs, with opinions that they are all the same. This place sets it straight, I am lovin it. oh, the "tod" stuff... My 87 went though many oil changes, with different brands. It was quite casual about it, even through the seasons. humid wetaher was only thing that set it off, regardless of temperature. My 93 knows it has different oil, and can't be down more than .25 quart. It is the only time my 93 does it.I wondered if the actual surfaces to lube are different and like to reject more, stubbornly from an 87 to a 93. I would swear for the same compression numbers, my 93 is by far a beefier little engine that could. I am assuming for the time it is the tight vacuumed spfi vs the bigger carb i had on the 87. Hard telling without compression testing both.

For a year and a half I thought it was broken. The switch in photo allows the cable by drivers seat to pop trunk lid. I literally took it all apart trying to find the problem. To find it was the switch turned off! Now everything works except the egr (very much uintentionally).photo shows it in the on position.

I have taken the ecu cover off for a simple resistor repair... and it occurred to me, I know nothing about the voltage regulators numbers, and resistors actual specs.. Could someone label this in thier drawing program, the common stuff? especially R1 resistor and volt regs on the heatsinks. This one is for a 93loyale 2wd spfi. It is the simplest ECU? The photo may be useful enough for the USRM if done correctly? It is a big photo, as much as my camera would do (1600x1200)

Thanks! Losing the 3 main bearing is not like evolving from cowhide bearings to high end 300k federal moguls. It is absolutely absurd. Like I had mentioned... today's Subaru is like American auto engineering of the 1960's, makin all kinds of noise, forgetting the actual discipline.Like teenagers took over, without knowledge, forgetting "dear 'ol dad." They even have the gigantic intakes a very large engine could run with. I have not found something yet about the new engines I liked. I am ashamed. Do not misunderstand my opinion about power- I was a huge v8 fan. I built until dangeroused, because the engines naturally could. What has been done to the boxer is pathetic. I am willing to bet a company makes the 3 main bearing again for autos.... Imagine what 6.5 mm increased on the ea82 stroke would have done. Somebody took over Subaru with brut force stupidity, and hellacious marketing skills. If I see one more award thrown at thier "new" engine, I am going to vomit. I found another vid.... beetle and impreza drag race. Look at this vid and THINK.

I made yet another vid with my time. A history and photos and a bit of action. All stuff found on the web. It is about the 3 main boxer engine in general. I am a big fan of that engine. 5 main bearings suck- I could care less if they got 800hp out of it. History will prove itself. No one in history has maximized the 3 main bearing. Ridiculous. There is some loyale subaru stuff. http://93loyale.50megs.com/tribute.html if the link doesnt work: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/4601d3b6-2317-4e04-bf0f-9845012097a8.htm Long Live The Loyale!

If the resistor block is the only object variating the speeds... figuring the combos from switch to it, then diving inbetween them would be quite easy. The reducing is done for the 4 speeds, leave the same combo and break it down again, like binarically. Maybe just work with the switch end, leave the resistor alone. If it got too hot, paralleling a big resistor and figuring the balance unnecessary, becuase it will either work or not. I could put my finger on it until it bacame a focus of escape. The cheap unintentional result got me wondering how to use the coolness to get even more dynamical. The site with the switch mentioned ought to work, even tho it is only 3 a, the reducing is done. The only thing is, it is not truly rhesotatical is it? I saw multiple switch reducing, but switch and rheostat are different.

I bet it treats the air with heat too, before thermostat opens, etc. It is no doubt a Subaru thing that could be made differently. Ironically after making a diagram of the fire path of an EA82, the resistor block is the lines of the map when you follow the combinations . I wondered if the engineers were having a giddy good time makin that retarded resistor. The engines are no doubt wired within as well as out. There are 2 pairs for this reason. To go dynamically inbetween them, without forgetting a pair would be the best bet.:-\ I am content with the 1-4, but I do remeber an eldorado Cadillac as a kid with an led for temperature and many settings by pressing up or down for better dynamics. After 9 years solid with same old school sube setup, I don't need the gadgets but for something unique. I won't be tinkering anytime soon, other than conversation.