bgd73

I just bought a GL hi-lo for 500 with 104k.If The body is worth the price, I would still knock it down to 15-1700 depending on work done. If there wasn't any, I would take it down to less than 1000. 164k needs stuff even if ya don't think it does, unless owner was maticulous in preventive maintenance as well as repairs.Something must be special about it for the high price. Unless the value is changing I don't know about. That is an interesting fact about the hi-lo and 1987.

No freebie wiring diagrams for a 1993 loyale?! Darn it all I have to spend 5 dollars . EGR is a mentality to eat your own crap. You don't save fuel.you don't stay healthy, and you catch a fever, smell awful, stay dirty, and self destruct as you wallow powerless in your on misery.You know what kind of help that brings? None. It is an opinionated world. Of all engines that didn't need an egr the 1781CC tiny strokin engine is sure as heck one of them.So you can eat your own dung, or not, it is up to the car owner. Let that 38mpg exhaust out! The EA82 is still one the cleanest lesser polluters on the planet even now in the car world. 21 years after the first of them...The EGR is INSANE.

Can't forget "the vibe" about a car either. Soobs is good. Thinking of the world and consumption. I first realized it with a beetle my mom drove around. Slow as heck but it got what was needed done. The soob is even better.

I went through extremes, and learned and learned.v8's , 6's and four cyl engines big and small cars and trucks. engines suck, bodies suck and electrical sucks.Especially in maine. then theres the 87 dl wagon with a carbeurator and manual everything outliving my grandma, a dozen cars, my dog since high school, 3 apartments, 6 moves, a near death experience, a disease that should have killed me... to the point of forgetting I even owned a DL, a 6 year tour in the military, to wake up with what seems to be a miracle, eyes seeing color, to a black and white soob just as no bullsh*t as the day it was made. and drive. And drive. And drive the one thing including all friends and closest relatives and favorite pets that didn't disappear,abandon, hurt or pretentiously pretend to be reliable. That's right I am psychotically comvinced my old subes are my best friend. I just bought a poop brown wagon btw, not exactly for old times sake, it isn't ready to retire yet. Will be 20 years in a few months... that is incredible. The car made a cross continental trip after getting off an island of alaska all the way to maine (mapquest claims it is 3903 miles) before I owned it. "Amazing" sure is realistic to say about an old sube sometimes.like no other car in the past ,now ,or from what I can find, the predictable future. and its four wheel drive!

I ran into same stuff with haynes. My radio install was impossibled for same resaon as my ecu stuff.Color codes way off and even plugs and paths. I need a specific year and model info. I can decipher alot of it, but there is positives and negatives and the a/c stuff. I am keeping an eye on ebay. they got FSMs on cd once and awhile.

I have no clue about gl-1 though 5 is that a rating?

no doubt neglect, and a bit of heat too... I never had the oil pan off yet, nice pic

Is it the bad season or what? I had just posted the day prior, my very last fix. My car needed nothing - absolutely nothing. That was my first old sube complete. It seems you had all you needed done and car was good too. I feel for ya! The little sube must be invisible to some people, or maybe looking like they are going slower than they really are. Good luck on a new sube, they are around I am sure in your neck of the woods . I have already purchased another.

I trust the splices. I will be using another means due to untangling, snipping, rerouting, leaning out what I don't need. It should be much shorter route for radiator thermistor and maf than in the loyale. I really need a 1993 diagram. the manual I was lead to is wrong year. There is some other things tied into ecu for 1993 including 5 way splices with end points unknown. I could only guess auto seatbelt. The ecu was just for fuel injection right? why am i finding this other stuff? I hope to ignore it with a diagram. chiltons did good with the 1990-1992 . does anyone have a 1993? macro pic or scan fuel injection or engine electrical section? there was also a/c idle kicker and whatever else. won't need it if your book has wiring color codes that match this photo it is correct for my intentions http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=13242&size=big&cat=recent&limit=recent that is connector f 108 for spfi ecu 1993 loyale 2wd

I was tugging at stuff gently to get the tangled mess out and pulled a wire from a 4 way splice (grounds), much like photo. Jeesh, couldn't they cheat with a butt connector?! how cheap of them. On a technical note I figured something out about how they wired them. It seems they changed things (coincidentally?) in a pattern of 1 year the same, then 2 years, then 1 year yet again, then 2 years, and I am an unlucky one with a 1993-1994 unique for the last year. So.. anyone have a 1993-1994 Loyale wiring diagram?

For 1990-1992 pin 13 == Letter "D" for drive on autos illumination and to inhibitor switch pin 14 == neutral illumination,inhibitor switch, neutral switch pin 15 == park illumination,inhibitor switch this is from chiltons loyale section 1990-1992. It did absolutely nothing for my 93. It splices off the original source from ecu to go to several places, on all 3 pins. park (pin 15) is simplest. I am searching on a similar subject for a 1993. 1990-1992 have the same wiring, <89 had yet another different realm, and 1993-1994 are yet again different. I have the haynes for 90-92, it does not match my car, like the 89 partial fsm- does not match it.

hey the fsm for an 89 is indeed different. Color codes and placement. I will be getting the 93 fsm on ebay- claims to have diagrams. there is eleven things needed to get it to run properly, the rest can go in a dumpster for all i care. The biggest mess was all the sharing of grounds(OEM connectors are very cheap- pinching a bunch of grounds into this flimsy clip). the power was not all that difficult to figure out. Not memorizable, but not that difficult to me. Get pumped up, slam it all together, cram it under the dash and hope for the best.....

I had an 87dl just got a 87 GL. same carb, different heads (thankfully) with hardly an egr problem like my dl. After taking carb all apart one day on my dl due to bad idle or no idle, I cleaned it up got it going again. I noticed the 1st barrell you putt around town with hardly gave power, from the day I got it, seemingly uncurable. This gl I just bought is doing same thing- no power before half throttle. My dl was cured with a 5-7 psi after-oem fuel pump and it not only fixed it, the old dl moved right along. Started flawlessly down to a -23f degrees.So, it was to learn that it wasn't even a rebuild necessary, it was the oem fuel pump. Any other tips for the hitachi? I will be running one for several months (possibly). A problem I had was throttle sticking wide open, unannounced on my DL. The gl doesn't have the same cylinder heads with "too much egr" so I am hoping this problem is non-existent now. Anyone have this sticky throttle problem on a gl with no "asv" ports on cylinder heads? I am hoping not.It especially happened to me if moisture was in air below 32 degrees. I further fixed that problem down into the single digits (a little better) but the chance still existed to stick. I have no idea what I did to fix it, that little bit, except for fuel pump,and never cured it entirely. I guessed it to be way too much egr. My car had asv on both heads and an egr port like spfi - all oem.Bad bad ingredients for anomolies to say the least.3 ways to cram hot exhaust back into the head, plus the oem heat riser... ridiculously dangerous.

airflow meter short should kill just one resistor on the board. after dishing out cash for one you cooked again, A 10ohm for 1 buck at radio shack should fire it back up.Check "R1" labeled on ecu board. The "ecu fried" targets one thing in relation to the one circuit shorting that caused it. Odds of frying everything are nearly impossible- just like a pc. Your old ecu could be repaired the same way.

the ecu will go with what is happening by other measurements, pushing in clutch to change gears will change speed sensor, as it is hooked up to the tach.neutral switch should be unnecessary. Another note aqbut neutral swirch-- my clutch had to be nearly to the floor to start car, changing gears down the road, doesn't even meet the neutral switch. Definately unnecessary.That is for forgetful people like an auto seatbelt. No nuetral switch has its benefits , bad clutch and needs to start in first.. or maybe your racing an electric rc car and you could only use the starter to turn engine to make it fair So far, after glancing at harness, it will be a lightweight in comparison to oem after some stuff is removed. Maybe for cel, a different location in a spot not bothering me would be decent. I did mention wanting to use the clock circuit after pulling the clock, for the ecu battery/ign sources maybe put a light behind the tinted part of clock holder- make it barely noticable, but still there. I will not have that crazy egr valve in this gl either, so light will be on at all times anyway. thanks for help on this. The fuel stuff left me stumped, the manual really had written what I was after, as well as the speed sensor behind dash cluster.His description of neutral switch was good too.

I agree. The best luck i had with hitachi was not even a rebuild but cleaning and tightening things more than oem's "inch lbs" on the torque. I managed to hack the choke to give me the 5-700 idle with a coat hanger, and the best luck of all, which actually got me to like my hitachi was the 5-7psi fuel pump meant for a larger volume.the pump hung off the oem bracket that holds the fuel pumps due to its size. I can't remeber what pump it was from advance auto, but it was good and cheap. It was quiet and slower than oem, and doing more- not too much. Very lucky guess with that install. The dl with the hitachi i had started at -23F below with it installed and it even kicked down to normal like it was supposed to. I ended up jump starting several newer vehicles with all out fuel injection that day. Surprise Surprise. It was so cold the heat didn't work until cardboard was covering 75% of the radiator. I hope to get that same "luck" again. Too much/too little fuel pressure caved something in at carb and there was no start. It had to be just right- oem wasn't exactly it (3psi?). There is holley and webers with same cfm, and I don't believe 3psi is good for those either. where I do have an spfi setup to retrofit, I may do that soon enough depending on a few other things.The hitachi on the gl doesn't have the anomoly to stick wide open. I never figured out that problem entirely on the dl- quite bizarre.After half throttle it could slam open all the way to the floor by itself as if someone took over and was trying to kill me with a perfect sabotage undecipherable . I never found the problem right up to the day I gave it away. I did have those crazy heads with the "asv"(?) on both cylinder heads. Bad news. when egr did its thing it no doubt took over the carb- at least that was the best guess. The gl has it on neither. The carb will be a pleasure, (possibly)

The egr is bad news for me. from an 87 dl to the gl I just got and even on the 93 spfi.I gained over 10mpg the very day I unhooked it. of course my egr valve was bad, and I did get minimal wifs of engine in other loyales with same setup. my 87dl was untouched as far as egr, because I opened the exhaust (carbed anyway- here in maine i didn't even need the convertor). I would really like to blame frigid ground temps, but it does it all year round. Beyond odors, things electrically start failing even in the car. like the clock etc. "EGR PIG" isn't even something I made up.. it was happening to alot of subes, and even other makes and models. The top end heat has got to go! The cel light is great. Maintaining on my own gets a real check at ecu .I don't need it. I like the thought of ECU doing less work with wiring in terms of many feet less, the accuracy could only be better by timing and no place else to go like a pc and its complete circuit. I am keeping the y-pipe from the spfi car too, so no drilling needed. While it is out I can put the bosch o2 sensor in.The directions you led me to are excellent. the other problem I was thinking of was the fuel relay, it is actually easy to tie it in according to directions. The one difference I would do rather than straight to battery for a circuit and adding fuse on my own, is use a circuit existing in the car. ECU isn't much of an amp draw after it drops its own volts, and can have a fuse on a circuit labeled like a normal spfi would. I was thinking the dash clock. It even has an ignition source, and can use regular fuses in a regular place (the fuse box). Other than that, what the writer wrote is easy to understand- including arguments for neutral switch. I drove a dl for 8 years with no switch, reminded me of an older vehicle, but it was no big deal. Will be awhile for this to get put together. I may run cabling soon and label it, so day(s) of swap will be much less to do. I don't have a garage handy btw, so this cooler weather climbing in fast is not good for the retrofit.As it is I am tearing down an old sube in a rental apartments driveway (again! -same chore different place!)

If I don't need it won't use it. been lookin at cel since i started this car 18 months ago about egr solenoid.it is kicking on exactly what I don't want anyway. the actual computation of injection is all it needs, it has no problems or changes with cel light on. My friend informed me of his toyota automatically going into a fail-safe mode when a code triggered in it. The loyales Ecu's do not do this.if it is supposed to, it isn't obviously happening, the mpg was great. Thankfully. My 2wd sailed right into the 30's mpg no matter what little thing i did to change stuff. I am looking forward to the thermal readings lower allowing for a bit more performance in the gl, without a/c pump clogging the intake and airflows externally. Every little thing I did on the loyale made a difference after one trip- ecu was learning.the gl with more lugging at the engine ought to be a nice retirement for the 2wd spfi- much slower curve air/fuel/torque/temperatures and top end, take off snap hardly likely..

That info was excellent. It is a can do. So now i will be making a loyale with dual range 3 years older than the oldest loyale in a GL. I do have to be sure the old gl is good enough first. Thanks alot for info. If/when project is achievable, I will post on web photos etc. I have some First things first ... projects later. ,My only worry was speed sensor, and the info answered that q, all ea82s have one. The neutral switch isn't even necessary

I got the exhaust stuff and wires near tranny with distributor, all one shot. along with all the coil stuff. the speed sensor stuff wouldn't be on a carbed dual range tranny version correct? use tach instead? I guess this makes a problem. The whole harness is there with all the little thing under the dash.99% unsnipped, pulled the whole tangled mess out. Thanks for pdf, will be looking it over-- oops that link didn't work.

I am hoping someone can briefly answer this accurately. I took the harness for ecu out with minimal snipping. I can literally plug in from intake harness and go all the way to ecu with many unsnipped wires. the ones I snipped were entangled and shared off to something else. Coincidentally all the shared ones were either yellow with a stripe or solid black (ground- again shared grounds ) or black and white stripe (power?). I was putting the pieces together and realized I don't need quite a few things for my swap onto a carbed GL. this is what I do need and have nearly uncut for oem harness. fuel pump relay and yet 2 other relays (assuming the clutch switch to start and ... ?) all SPFI gadgets and unit - tps, thermistors, oil , and even maf (the longest cable) spfi distributor, the gadget underneath coil, and coil the black and white wire that goes into fuse box (is that the only power for the ecu?) So, in conclusion my guess is that it is easier to put this retrofit together than originally thought as long as engine will turn over without the clutch safety switch and even then I would hack it. Am I missing something? I saw a few threads about this and successful with the ej swap. What I am doing should be easier- I am optimisticly thinking. The fuel pump stuff is tricky. I will no doubt need the crazy map diagram from manual. I am pretty sure I cut that right out and will have to wire in. The other shared stuff is for dummy lights mostly. One of the shared wires snipped is for the fuel stuff no doubts. It is my only slight worry.

It is fixable even if taking rear end mount bolts out breaks something deeper. I went through all of that rust similar until a bent body and still fixed it back to life, stronger than average. You get to see the weaknesses with rust, rust doesn't just happen on bad roads. Fatigue of stress helps it right along. Don't even need to go overboard with thicker guage metals like I did.Galvanized repairing in these places in photo, is my guess making a 25 yr+ unibody even in a bad environment.Could even be lazy about paint, unless electrical likes new metal. My car could have jumped a small cliff by the time I was done with repairs similar to your photo in the beginning.Lamination and the places they put it, makes light metal very strong. I still don't like the though of it, but I am kinda barbaric with concept of what strength in steel is. The old sube taught me...

The body is mint, it is worth it. Most of this country is killing the sube with rust and real need for 4x4 parts of the year. That one could take an ej hack in a second, and it is under 100k or just run the darn thng til the rust never fails it. I dont know where they got the blue book value from. $1432 was the last I saw. The EA82 auto is not a good thing as most of us know. I would offer 1500 cash for body, low miles and 4wd, spfi and a/c working, can't forget power steering, power windows.Ahh the heck with it, I would give exactly cost as selling Depends on use you want. I believe you drive autos now right? I just gave 500 for one that needs some help and 25k more miles, but it is standard and dual range. The selling price for what you found is worth it.

it did quite well indeed.I am unharmed, except for my left kneecap, only a bruise. The cabin part is flawless, not anything noticable.The fact that it stayed running with the engine pinched in a totalled body- I kept power steering for some last second maneuvering. The radiator and condensor turned into a parallelogram and never leaked.I can safely say the two belts saved my life. The highway is quite a stampede when your stopped right next to it feeling the breezes of a momentum taken for granted when inside the car doing the 65mph yourself. That may explain the hurry the officers wre in about statements.... Anyway, since last photo , engine is waiting for another person so I can yank it out.Everything unbolted, and partially pryed from tranny. I got the complete harness for spfi, snipped at the guages end of things like cel, oil, etc. got everything else tho. Next is struts, transaxles (due to low mileage on them) and the tranny. I could even throw that 2wd tranny in any one of these gl/dl/loyales again if i run into 4wd woes. I broke a driveshaft once, and it took quite some time to even find a used one.Ive gone totally junk man, and lovin it last day in driveway will have windshield, and 2 doors. I even saved the hood cable with a broken handle (better than completely broken).I bet I could fit it all in the back of the wagon. One engine in front and one in the back- it sure as heck "can haul its own weight" (pun intended)

the math would be wrong. h4 is perfect. although I bet some schmuck with a fancy looking car body could sell it as exotic for 100k and get away with it.