bgd73

I am sure there are threads about this, it is well worth repeating, especially in the 20+ year old ea82s... and getting older. I found a "technical service bulletin" at an online parts ordering website about 1980-1989 soobs aerating at the oil pump due to its seals causing engone noise and inevitable failures, starting with gaskets. I summed it up with photos and an undoubted tip for the complete fix for my 87 (my loyale stayed flawless by oem build). http://93loyale.com/opump.html I enjoyed making this page- I have found the pre 1990 soobs disappeared more than all of the loyales,even of they looked fairly decent. Not only for the pain in the butt carb versions at -20F below.This oil pump aeration stuff was no doubt at the top of the list where I live. Sorry if it is a repeat for you regulars. We aren't all pros.

Just when I though the 5 main bearing crank and heads were goofy enough.. they really want those goofy cylinder walls to float around lose thier goofy head, maybe hoping the goofy "extra" half mains are gong to seriously keep it together. So help me... when it is time to evolve because the ea82 became too rare (there is only over 1million in the us alone.), I am saying goodbye to Subarus forever (unless they bring a real engine back) . Did they do this on purpose to dig into peoples wallets? what was the motivation to add power to the wrong frickin design?!

I just got an 87gl, and it is different carbed than my 87dl. The dl had mechanisms to adjust for high idle in association with the choke. I found a diagram for the carb on the gl, and sure enough, the only screw I found claiming to be for "high idle" in the diagram, is the only screw for the engine idling at all. I put the idle to where it is supposed to be, and there is no high idle at all and don't know how to get one. The choke works great , thats about all. Seems very simple in comparison to the dl I owned, not much happening under that filter plenum. Did I miss something? The carb seems antique in simplicity, something you could find on a really old engine with the incredibly glorified electric choke (when it used to be). I know the carb is oem after finding the diagrams, and it is a hitachi.

Common sense be it the xt has a bit more beef for 2 more cylinders... be sure the gl starter is really lubed up good and clean. If a gl starter can turn over a -25f ea82 and a dual range tranny shaft without the clutch pressed in, It should whirl over your 2wd even tho it is 6 cyls.

Excellent thread. I just tightened up some probs due to the asv head- including a cam casing that unscrewed itself from the head and a pressure relief bolt on same casing that unscrewed entirely, leaving me with <5 psi oil pressure at an idle and a really smacking valve. I was going to scrap the head entirely, for one of my spfi ones, possibly shaved .040 and a copper gasket this time to really get it thumping.As there is no spacer making it a different exhaust port. It is cast as part of the head and leaves the regular ea82 y-pipe you could find on a spfi soob leaning crooked. No getting out of that one....be it the pipe was bent by somebody to almost fit perfectly, I may call the asv head good enough and hack like previous posts.I have no cruds or anomolies yet, the engine is strong and clean, now wouild be a great time to stop that stuff. If the hacks are that easy, I will just prevent it from working like the ingenuities mentioned. If you reading this GD I pm'ed you.If I offended, I publicly apologize.

This may help. I am on my second wagon, all oem stuff keeping acoustics, insulation. The only time noise was prevailing was with bad bearings in back end and/or driveshaft. Bent wheels, hubs rotors don't do it. Not even a glasspack and straight pipe about a foot away from drivers seat wide open does it. I have had roof rack rails missing and a floor open, as well as rocker panels and door seams.and bad struts letting out of balance shake.The entire cause was rear bearings for annoying noise at high speed. A true lsd is a bit noisy as well- but I would be checking the steel around that area that held everything too, as the rear seems to last forever contently.

This thread seems to be more for conversation than anything on my behalf. Sorry for lack of anal retentive and just having my own successful actions that actually fix things not according to GD's lifestyle.10 years 3 soobs and worked on some friends, I guess I can be confusing. my simple problems anecdotally are annoying and confusing to some apparently. I meant what I said about hla's hardly needing anything to function. Today, finally access to a dry place to work: took rocker cover off, spring relief bolt fell onto the ground! took timing covers off, oil pump is soaked and even dripped in front of my eyes, the outer seal was spinning with the pump and it was a newer version gasket with the metal ring (oh no GD's favorite) Inner cam casing bolts took 2 turns near the distributor, I am certain I warped it back to where it belonged, as the rocker cover had to be warped to the casing all while staying relatively dry before this tightening, At this point, I though the engine may be done forever. changed one cam seal, and they both had newer metal ringed gaskets already tried some stuff I hadn't seen before on the gaskets by permatex- impermeable to all shop oils, and meant to be applied to gaskets going in for a long term install (seemed very appropriate) Got it going six hours later due to a broken oil pump bolt (the other reason for bad leak). Oil pressure is fantastic, expecting to hear some sloppy bearings finally cooled to good oil pressure, and it never did. Engine is tight and cool, no leaks. For a 20 year old car, everything came apart great, fatigued stuff was very common sense, I was expecting worse, like swapping the whole oil pump, or cam casing, etc. Needs nothing. Ready for a cross continental expedition During this bad time, I got the hlas to be quiet, anecdotally totally on 2-10 lbs or so of pressure well into the 2k rpm range.<- Is this scientific enough for you? The ea82 is a freakin rock. I would run oem metal ringlessed gaskets again anyday. My 13 year old ea82 with 161k proved it is a hoax on which is better with its oem oil pump seal that was never changed, never leaked. The metal ringed ones cling to the shaft too much, (except for the cams, they are good there). I am hoping the super tacky gasket goop keeps it from spinning with the oil pump shaft. Thanks for listening, My problem wasn't scientifically in the fsm, and I even used visegrips like a wild man. and the clutch fan on this carbed gl went very powerful after fixing- that type of fan senses smooth to operate, and it really is now, had to tighten the belts. unscientifically.

Thanks for not exactly helpful replies. It was fixed before you could answer. Quit blaming the oil pump too while your at me.If words like "anecdotal" are in your every day life, may we never speak again. Some of us function in the real world with dirty hands, a schedule and realtime fixing- even if it is visegrips in the pouring rain.. A labarotory and a hot cup of coffee your "pleasant" day or what? I feel a need sometimes to whip out a resume, work history and witnessed reputation for some of you people..... but that would be staisfying the scientific anal retentive attitide I don't care much for in the real world anyway. Think quick- lets see who makes a scientific mistake first. the quiet 20 year old ea82 I am referring to isn't even going to get oil pump gaskets now, like my 13 year old one still running flawlessly at 161k, or the 166k one before that. B*ll************ talks. Wanna know what the action is? Take your prejudice from mine. Especially you GD.

very good possibility. The front rotors were rusted from several days of sitting, they clean up easily. I'll just go with it confidently, had one rear hub off, was clean no rust, car sat leaning sharp to the right for several weeks, I bet thats all it took to get the right side rear hub. Thanks for input, never crossed my mind.

Does it happen? The first 500 miles on my old wagon and a shutter from the rear end when braking hard, like a bent wheel, and it isn't... grabs the whole car, so it is tight... Ya know what happened? It stopped doing it entirely after riding the rear brakes for a bit.... Never encountered this before. Everything is ruled out, but this. the grease is good, bearings are good, hubs and even the pads. 4 straight wheels, all tires the same. No sign of it accellerating or holding steady, handling is tight. was it a Stuck axle? 87 d/r 104k miles with a 12/86 on the door, that is about 5k miles a year- of course that didn't happen, so it must have sat still for a long time sometimes... Anybody know of another cause? I fly down the highway, would love to be certain. ... My best guess is a stuck axle, they look new no rips in boots, did a sharp 360 to the right and left in 4 lo, no clicks.

It was indeed fixed by tightening the cam casing. When I saw .5 mm as the movement for those to function- the aeration theory left me scratching my head- all these little movers would need is a single drop of oil . For now the external tightening is keeping it quiet at warm, loud when cold,so the .5mm is still exceeded until the thousands of an inch expansion when warm happens to keep it quiet. It is that tight. So, in reality, a straight pipe, no backpressure and oil gushing with bad seals should still keep that HLA quiet if getting oil and adjusted correctly, and it always will until a catastrophic oil pump event- and I have never heard of one on the ea82 have you? If torque numbers are exceeded on the cam casing to get it correct, so be it- it was that simple. Overthought could be a wrong direction yet again with these hla's...

Just had time to play with this, this rainy day. I was thinkin radio shack and 2 dollars ought to get this going. the big resistor seems to last forever, I have even banged the resistor block around - left it alone. the middle resistor gave me a .5 -.8 reading the small resistor is plagued at a steady .3 this is what I did: the smallest resistor - straight wired bare copper 12 guage, .1 ohm- never to get hot again. the middle resistor got some experimentation. I had a 10 ohm, threw that in and tried it. One was super slow, 2 a little faster than super slow, air barely moving.3 and 4 still a blast. I took remnants of the #1 tiny strand and paralleled it in the middle with the 10 to cut the 10ohm in half (5.25). Sure enough it is quite noticably slower than "3" and "4". So I am thinking 7 -8 ohm, tiny watt resistor is going to be exactly what I want, but for now I am content with 1 and 2 being similar (still different- just not much notice), and slower than "3". The only resistor to plague it now will be middle one, and that is simple enough. A big watt resistor, again, defies the ohm reading for reasons I don't understand. The same ohm resistor in small watts, normal size, actually does something. I am guessing that 7 ohm would be perfect in "tiny" watts, .5 - 2 watt would hold it like oem.

I can't answer all of the q's, but the o2 sensor likes the backpressure of the cat- yet again in second thought, the spfi didn't do much with the o2 so putting it anywhere hot enough would be good enough with a cat filled or not (my guess). If putting your own o2, the size you would need could be all yours. The noise is...... Excellent, if legal where you live.I have been running a glasspack and open pipe on an old carbed ea82 to what I was convinced is the loudest thumpiest car vibrating old soob I have heard yet, to learn the heads were machined. I need a full quiet like exhaust, if yours is normal, it isn't all that loud. Going over 9.5:1 is outright painful with open pipes for any length of time, and could even bring a noise pollution ticket. Definately an erratic motor with temps, and opened exhaust,I would not say cooler, as the backpressure actually helps an ambivalence stay with the thermostat and coolant to stay fluid steady Spfi is very good with a tight exhaust, even if it is made louder. Any 2inch muffler that fits is excellent.

Picking apart the pushrod head poking aviator ea81 will be easy... keep the swap to an ea81 to an spfi and those silly remarks about noisy ea82s out of the site? It was a wild stab biased and unfactual. The ea81 ironically, the exact dud that didn't make it here in my locale *exactly* because of the pushrods, was a happy demise in the site of the ea82 and two timing belts- and very durable top end that went with it. If spfi was a welcome evolution for fuji onto the ea81 they would have done so. I have written similar loud statements to learn it was my locale making something better or worse- keeping opinions out is a great idea. Your article is very useful.

I just got a wagon and some info about maintenance done, including "heads machined" I do not know if that means planing badly or what. I read about the hla function of .5mm at a time to keep noise down and figured tightening the cam casing would fix the 1 hla that won't quit being noisy. I tightened an external cam casing bolt quite tightly that was by the disty, up top, and it stopped for awhile- just to see if that would do it. It is doing it again this morning, after cold start.Before my next move, tightening the casing bolts below rocker cover, should I take the whole casing off and lightly sand the edges? or should I just overtighten all of them, as this did seem to work for awhile just tightening one when engine was warm.I am certain there is plenty of bolt pressure by oem to keep them good by putting the casing on via oem torques. Mine is not working this way. I have also found some heads that let the hla burrow itself into the head for the .5 loss and never gained again (noisy forever- without any mods to casing, or other way to stop it). I am hoping I am not there with this one, if I am, Do I need a new head? Is there a trick for this? It is so close to being good I am frustrated- trying to make up for it by "squashing" the cam casing without breaking the bolts.. Oil pressure is great and seals are good, it is only one hla by the disty - I am guessing the exhaust one on the "asv" type head (I do not have good luck with the "asv" head found on carb versions anyway).I have a couple of spfi heads doing nothing, am willing to swap if it is really bad news. PRO Advice would be great.

Excellent swap. Today. below freezing in a morning start I remember why I disliked the carb. I have a 93 spfi from a 2wd that will swap easy enough with a bizarre harness wiring- I simply haven't found an fsm. With everything engine already plugined, uncut on harness. The only prob is ecu power , and some relays (still plugged into the harness, never hacked them)... If I figure this out, whoever is documenting can have info. All I truly need to get this going in a short time is the ID of power and destinations. Seeing a conversion get up and going has my harness and ecu in the house, on the table, and thinning things out.

The ea82, all versions has been nothing but incredible for me when it comes to fuel mileage. As a 1781 with 250cfm should, even with errors.I am currently running a 20 year old never rebuilt with a glasspack and straight pipe (yes I am sure the neighbors love me for it) well into the 30's mpg - everywhere I go, to the floor or not with the throttle. EJ18's have the potential to suck in small kittens and chipmunks, and guess what else has to go with all that air intake? Aside from the broken crankshaft potential, it can use alot of freakin fuel! Can't feed me the bullcrap about giant intakes and little engines "doing better than ever" with mileage, it is preposterous to even think it.If your ea82 is using alot, it should and will be an obvious extreme problem to find and fix.

a convection oven at 250 degrees for whatever it takes works excellent. I am guessing even lower temps cure it too.Overbaking brings a hint of black color in the reflective part of back of lense, even then, it still works great (I overbaked one - nothing broke).

I just flushed a 20 year old ea82, and a very good way to verify the goop is gone is at the base of the oil filter with filter off of course, the condition of that area tells all. Mine was glowing shiny after one engine clean with its instructions. It really takes two ingredients that I can think of to build an old fashioned crud: bad oil and high temps- and of course whatever may be causing these 2 things. I just slobbered over the new block .. Could an old one ever get that shiny ? My searches on ebay bring stupid replies... I am glad these items exist.

The starter alone would suck down 3 amps tops. The soob isn't this big! A heater motor is free spinning in a closed environment, the draw is hardly anything.120 watts on a resistor is HUGE. My ohm meter is a cheap one. At 2m scale one of the resistors is reading .005. I really do have to do some extra math to get it correct. Less than 1 ohm on the block is going to allow me to straight wire it with no resistors at all. I will verify with some resistors with known numbers, my meter is not normal to go to 200ohms, would get actual numbers on some, mine isn't getting actual numbers. low watts big ohms is my best guess. Again the 56ohm I have is working perfectly in the block I just verified my ohm meter with a 151 ohm resistor. My meter read it as 148.3, so it is to say that the resistors on the block are doing hardly anyhting for resistance, just enough to get hot. I will be the jackass to straight wire it and call it good if the numbers I got are correct - under 1 ohm for all of them.

I had just finished my fender well repair, paint wasn't even dry. I went out to check on things and found four little streams of water from the rain. Drip drip drip , right before my eyes. This explains the rear quarter panel repair #3 and possibly the rocker panel. We have anything but toxic rain here in maine really. I siliconed this frustration and threw it back together... I didn't forget the elusive roof rack rail leaks either. How do all of these wagons I see here stay so good?! I have yet to see one (ea82 years) without at least some of these troubles. Oh well it's fixed. It may have even fed the bizarre wheel well injury...

Pushrods with all that air coming at them are great. I would chuck an ea81 in the ocean if I had to drive around in my soob with one, or maybe sell it to an aviator...I don't remember any decent ones here when I was growing up.The ea82 coming around was a pleasure even with the bad cam seals. The t-belt theory being less reliable may be a hoax, I found a site that is flying an ej25 with 4 cams, one belt, and flew across the country with it...One trip. The ea82, has proven to me in my recent accident, kept running on two driver side cylinders as I snapped the power steering around with ease and slammed on the vacuum controlled power brakes.All while the hit was hard enough to pinch the engine and cam sprocket caved in and bent badly. The EA82 has the best on the ground .Pushrods suck- I really mean it after my hobby with v8's, the soobs version is tighter than ever and nearly parallel to the ground instead of up down. One cam is doing alot, and I would never doubt the 2 belted ea82 in the air either.

I made the mistake you are stating as well. It really is low watts. I have a 56ohm for the smallest one and it is only a 3 watts resistor- works better than oem by staying cooler, getting similar job done. I am going to go 3 watts for all of them if I have to. I am fairly certain ordering them can get it exact or very close to it. The big watts defy the resistance value, I am assuming in the resistor world, small watts to go with the algorithm is the output- not how much the other end can take. This still a guess on my part- I have narrowed it down to "whatever works." I have to order some to complete this, will post results. If less than 1 ohm on a 200 ohm scale the ".5" for example is "of" 200, that is why I multiplied it, and the numbers really made sense after that. Less than 1 ohm resistor is not doing hardly anythjing at all- an ohm meter itself can have up to a .3 in just error, that is how sensitive that number is below 1. It is almost an entire guess if it were'nt for the 56 ohm I just happened to have sitting around in the resistor block and functioning.

Thanks ! I really did not want to give up. The whitish goop is horrible- it simply stated 40 year caulking exterior/interior, and seems to be chaulky when drying. Must be for house windows and doors. Not my first choice, but it was in the gun ready to go.It is sealing already, went through some puddles. the primer is simply rustoleum. no more noise, and there was indeed a structural problem, the alignment changed. The creaking moaning groaning in the rear end is stopped with it in 4-lo now on pavement.The first stomp on the brakes brought a unibody shutter- I got this once before sealing up something on the underside, unibody related- like air left it into some kind of natural vacuum. That is when I know steel stops in time, internally in the unibody structure. It is there now, the rest is tinkering in spare time. Turning the heat on high brought stinky feet smell- air flows interior changed. And lastly, the weirdest thing of all- the hla noise stopped pretty near entirely . I am hoping it is as simple as the rain making the engine different. My other 87 did the same strange things after fixing a rocker panel. I don't need to wish for luck now, it is ready to jump small cliffs These cars are repairable even after they are bending. A few strange things happen after fixing then it is all good.

Fenderwell complete. Almunim and steel corroding is a hoax- take away the air like steel. Air== bad news no matter the combination. Oh no. We have a steel crank and valves bouncing around in the aluminum with a 2k degree fire.... I learned this from an aviation guru. Simply take away the air is the only thing necessary. The part by the rear seatbelt has kept manya soob from inspections, some went to the junk yard just for the repair I just completed. I weaved and triple layered, now going to attack the fenderwell from the outside to wrap this up good, and make the seatbelt something Subaru never did. I wonder what I just did in four hours is worth... Oh, while that plastic piece is off covering the wheel well, I painted everything all the way back to the taillights, and shined a light in some holes by rear door pillar to check for water from leaky roof racks (it is raining where I am today) so far so good- I siliconed the roof rails. Who needs me to fix thier wheel well? I work for ramen noodles and coffee