bgd73

hi, Your previous post for this did not get an answer? Anyhoo, I was the one that posted about turning the wipers into a car shaker. The low speed is faster than my old high setting. Although my prob was due to arctic tundra- metal changes density permanently on some parts of the car (it is an odd subject for some of you warm weather people ), extreme heat can do something similar for moving parts. The biggest loosener wasn't even the motor, but the actual linkage where wiper arms attach, there is shafts running through thier aluminum casing. I used synthetic bearing grease there. it is a bit of a chore to get to, but well worth it- you may even find something interesting in the linkage bay and gives an oppurtinity to clean the heater motor vents. Another motor needed is unlikely if it is functioning... My 87's brushes after 20 years are over 50% left to wear them down , and that is how long they lasted with bad grease...I very well may have stopped them in time for all I know. Good Luck, there is only so many moving parts to target.

For the kids who do not understand my thread.... My state in this year 2006 finally passed a law legally allowing wheels up to 2 sizes larger to be fit on my vehicle this Friday it is official. Not just any wheel. An "AA" or manufactured would be legal , just like these rare 16 inch redrillables are, as the new bolt holes are meant to happen.I am very lucky to have found them. Furthermore, this 6 lug conversion, although a steel drillable wheel, I see from photos here get drilled even though the new holes on the 6 lugs aren't exactly designed for another lug. Just when I thought my state was lenient about things, there are folks cars getting put on dynos for strict emissions testing, and illegally drilled six lug wheels spinning away on them. Crazy world.. isn't it GD? all those facts, so much to grasp, too much for you obviously, you would rather prejudice my posts.Have I explained the precision enough to you? I have concluded with facts what you do to me is based upon my locale, and what happens uniquely to my car.I am publicly announcing it to you. You are being illegal Mr. GD (I don't even know if you are a "mister"- yet you dish out hateful replies that I do not return.)We are not friends, nor enemies (unless you have silently announced it) and you really are bothering a reality. Not just mine. Any of your friends GD like to gang up on me with prejudice? They are getting reported to a moderator just like you GD... <- happy day.

heres the good news: They fit exactly with typical redrill of 2 more holes on the 6 lug wheel. Photos reveal this. here is the oem 3/4 ton monster. Quite ugly. Very strong. Note the redrillable mounds inbetween the 6 lugs- perfect. Here is the bizarre factoid: the depression on the back of the rim is 93-94 mm, A subaru fit. If I drill it out entirely, no washers needed. Either way it is locking oin the hubs/rotors for perfect centering. Also measured offset- Exactly where I want it, drilled center or not, it is less than .25 inch difference. It fills the wells 1 inch more, the sube will take it, as well as a .25 closer install towards strut (what I wanted from any after oem wheel) . The total width is (including egdes for exact measurement): 7.5, 7 without edges counted (like a tire company would measure). I can not believe how exact this ended up... Now I just have to coerse my brother into letting me borrow them.... I also have spare hub ready for hand drilling stud holes guided:

I spotted my bros rotting 3/4 ton 1989 GMC 6 lug X 5.5 pattern on basic steel wheels. A closer look revealed 16 inch, offset familiar..... I liked them better than pugs or AA when it came to offset. So, remembering not much more than 25 inch on oem lift fits perfectly, I sought out some tires for pricing etc. 205/60/16 have a high rating no matter what due to the size (they are naturally high rated). Also with this size, I found studdable winter, z rated, all seson, and over 100 choices at http://tirerack.com all the way down to 46 bucks. This particular tire size is 25.7 according to the on web tire calc. Anyone done this to a non-lifted soob?? I am certain it can be done, with his particular wheels. the basic steel wheel I am referring to is OEM GM on a 3/4 ton 4wd, and not too wide. My bro won't let me have his, but being the 80's GMC/chevy 3/4 ton are long gone... hopefully not buried, no doubt dead here, I can score rusty wheels someplace, there is no doubt. He claimed to be parting it out, then changed his mind, but the wheels caught my interest anyway...

For OEM offroad as a built focus from factory, the land rover is one of very few that really do well. I see from the door panels that there is no strange curves for future thoughts of easy repairs- just like the old ones. or say an IH scout american made (sadfully extinct).My first impression of one of those with electronics was phenomonal (it has been quite awhile with electronics). If mechanically they could achieve the same stuff, 20 years from new owners would be buzzing in forums like 87 GL mudders because it isn't dead yet. Unchauvanistically: Sometimes, they almost make a vehicle for a MAN.

If the volt regulator hangs on - the unique system you put together works. I hope if you can see way above 12 or too close to it via guage. Way above is a sign things aren't going to make it, way below may creep its way back up to normal. I have thought of bigger alt for my wagon, can you post how it works?

Given you do not want a fire at bdc on intake stroke... 1-3-2-4 could be paired as 4 and 1, 2 and 3 to get bdc on fire strokes . So 1 would be firing, 4 is bdc already fired, 3 fires, 1 would be bdc fire stroke, 2 fires with, 3 at bdc just fired, then 4 fires with 2 at bdc. Wait, now I confused myself...

Thank you, Excellent idea. I really have a nuts idea though.. I cleaned everything top to bottom, I even situated myself to actually see the light of day through defrost vents from the bottom side of heater core unit.. the duct off the engine is as powerful (quite powerful) as I cleaned it up to be, nearly buzz free. With duct on, engine same power, airflow simply DIES with routes wide open and verified. It is quite fixed, and must compliment it, as this cars 20 years has been north climate all the way to alaska its whole life- a heater motor with alot of miles to be as quiet as it is....impressive. here is the strange conclusion I learned from my other 87... something "atmospheric" is happening. From top to bottom back over through the heater core (which really is clean, I verified again today).all ducts open, I visibly watched each link as I went through the buttons to see them change- and air is climbing out appropriately in correct places. My other 87, just as mysterious after taking motor off and putting back on, "banged" back to life and really started pumping air, this one is in that stage of strangeness now and am expecting a thud. There has always been a half recycle type move back though defrost vents when heat is on, that is not happening yet... when it does, I will sure as heck know it, it returns with a thud, all while not changing routes or opening valves and increasin air flow dramatically. I'll just keep running it on high in other words.. would love to decipher that someday. Some kind of vacuum or something, I really have no idea.

The glue and: Paint it does a body good.

I guess I am gong to have to tear the heater core box down myself.. will get photos. the little plastic lines after 20 years aren't even petrified. Having no a/c made this problem seem smaller, by taking out the whole box. I can smell amouse and I am sneezing and there is no recycle at all going back though the defrost vent... something is in there. Anyone else guess before I dig into this shortly? four of my own posts has left me on my own again...

If they had that dyno emissons test in maine, taxi companies would be multimillionares and hitchikers would be everywhere... The tractor trailer HICKS especially. I wonder if that dream I had about feds with guns stopping these renegade HICKS with stove pipe straight pipes, jake brakes there just to make noise and the attitude of the truck to match the owner caused one of mans greatest wars against retards in maine was true... Anyway, at 20 years old, I am very curious what my 87 would do the way it sits. I am glad some states give a crap about emissions seriously. Mine doesn't. I don't even have a "treehugger" mentality, but what I see here is repulsive in comparison to the thinking world and where I have traveled to for a few epiphanies of common sense. I am glad they didn't break your car- although repairs would have been paid for by the big state budget

ok here is summary, now need an experts guess heater resistor block back to all oem heater motor greased and cleaned, back together balanced (higher powered and quieter than ever) verified outside duct function at heater motor with glove box out, car running and switched heat on and off, valve moved, and even moved it by hand as well to check for full movement to the left of heater core unit, verified the valve actuation moved there and routes changed with heat on high (it all functions) visibly inspected top of heater core- clean and sharp A symptom of something wrong was just after pressing any given route like "bilev" there is a blast of expected warm air, then something of a valve is doing something to slow it to the crawl of air I am trying to do away with. Is there some kind of alignment to verify? Whatever it is , when I fix it, I will post what it was. My other 87 did this for a short time, and came back with a thud at what sounded like behind the dash clock and it was full speed ahead again (there isn't even a valve there ). Similarly on this 87, I can hear a whole lot of air at center of dashboard and cannot find any leak inside the car from the area of noise... Is there another route besides the channels given at controls? back outside somehow? The heater motor is indeed full speed ahead powerfully. #1 speed is nearly useless all while engine runs and I can still hear it.

That is the conclusion I came to about the air getting guided- it is indeed functioning, every setting. I bypassed heater core simply by putting the air temp to cold- still slow. I verified that outside air was coming in for the blower-it is full speed ahead without duct on. why it is disappearing while making all the noise that it is full speed is bizarre. .The only hint I have is the sound of debris flying towards heater core, and then suddenly bad flows. Everything works. I did find a nest under the windshield wipers where vents are, and threw it all out as one clump, never got sucked in, heater worked great before i found that. Another thought is that I had the blower motor apart to grease and clean, and balanced the plastic fins and it is now balanced. I am wondering if while under the pressure of heater box the noise is there but the actual "umph" to get the job done isn't happening. Makes the same noise as before, but now balanced- it is hard to tell.Out of the heater box it really sends the air flying- with same exact noise on high, as in the heater box. I am stumped. Will try another heater resistor hack job I have around here somewhere to reassure myself the motor is getting full power- I think it may be tricking me. It is hanging onto resistor block now however.. I must have done something right Edit: what does pass though for heat is quite warm, the warmest I have ever felt the heat. Will try blowing out the heater core with high pressure air needle as well.

I took apart the blower unit side of things, decided to clean up the bunged up heater motor - took the motor all part, regreased, looked things over it was quite dirty, now spotless and greased. Brushes do not have much time left. The motor is much less strain now, however,the heater resistor stays cool for all 1-2-3-4 settings. Upon putting back together and sealed, I heard something like clumps of dust go flying towards heater core unit (behind radio) and now with heater engine full speed ahead there is hardly an air flow to match. Where is air going? I checked surface of heater core (do not ask me how I pretzeled upside down and squeezed my head under the dash to get a look) and I cleaned that out of small things, overall looked good fins are sharp and open. Is there an easy way to find a major clog elsewhere in the heater core side? I verified fan is full speed by taking the duct between heater motor and heater core unit off and it is indeed blasting air in that direction. Put duct back on and its hardly pumping air with motor obviously revved up to where it is supposed to be. The sound of debris going toeards heater core was last hint I bunged it up somehow. Below is photo worth showing- it is a rusty holder of the heater resistor block that stay on the inside of unit. I painted this one and called it good. The rusty metal could be a resistor block killer EDIT: I do have a chiltons manual that shows externally the heater system parts, but not the inside. The FSM scored here does not have it in it.

Pop it out and note color codes on clock circuit board. Can use some wires for radio/cb. I used it on a delco radio for dimmer, there is a bat terminal and accessory.

I have an spfi sitting here and thought once about taking it apart (13 years and 161k). It was approaching intermittent, until i painted the exterior of pump and it went back to like new. Great photo- I wonder what a windshield wiper motor could do... Just a decade has millions and millions of revolutions at 100k miles. The cold fuel no doubt is the pump saver.... keep those trunks lined, and wagons behind the seats, it saves the fuel pump in the shade I took a liner out of my sedan trunk and the car ran differently, it changed the fuel pump- because it got warmer. warm fuel at pump is bad news unless it is new enough not to notice. Q: What does actual pumping in photo, all I see is engine.

I always take photos of what I do.. here is the 87 that is in this thread. I left the actual EGR valve there, it started acting like the "air bypass" the spfi soob has, preventing the siphon of crankcase oil when engine braking , keeping the blue smoke from oil burning from cylinders (the rubber line in the middle of photo that is attached to the top of the egr valve). In other words when throttle valve is all the way closed, it is getting clean air to fill the cylinders instead of starving and resorting to the crankcase blowby and closes at an idle, so it perfectly works only when engine braking. I will not be fixing the egr on this one. If I should get an spfi soob again, I would keep EGR there- the implementaion was very simple in comparison. This carb was even worse than my spfi when egr went wrong, along with other work mentioned to agitate it in the first place.

I took one look and thought it could be done on the ea82 soobs a long time ago. just keep it rwd and possibly hack the bellhousing area to keep it low. I found a chevette with a 350 on the net, vid shows it running and moving. As long as the engine isn't transverse (like an inline 4 FWD) the body is designed for a v- flat engine type signal. Hack away! that would be interesting for say a drag strip show etc. A v6 would be very realistic, v8 would be phenomonal. Fuel mileage in the 20's on the highway? The 1781 must have errors. Just tuning one up brings 20's in the city, unless emissions has gone wild.

I was just rummaging through head bolts.. and didn't notice short ones either. The center bolts are under the cam in a depression, that would be my guess. Just run the bolts through the head to figure it out?

I may have figured out the egr mishaps on this one... The "anti-backfire valve" was hacked, passenger cylinder head is different (changed from oem- looks like an spfi head)- EGR pressure was opening on its own from idle, all the way thorugh rpm ranges. I had another 87 and I did not touch anything emissions and it worked great as it was all oem. The belly of the unibody invisibly burned into a a shatterable obsidian type stuff- but I stuck with the crazy EGR until the end. With that said, I have taken the hacked "a-bf" valve out along with plating the pulsating asv (had no purpose anymore). Engine runs great. The last I have heard a sound like it was a friends old 327 chevy (with asv plugged it gained the realistic thump I was hoping for from one side). Another note is with asv plated and removed from engine, there is no backfires when cold.I think I could rig up an old chrome type breather you could find on a carbed v8 of old and rig up the pcv- like a weber replacement, just to get to adjustments while running. I like clean air too, it is one of my fascinations of 1781cc doing the amount of work it does without sucking down half the planet. If the EGR had a means to be realistically functioning I would have left it- I did not in this case however. Another note is that I was informed both heads had machining done for new gaskets (slight shaving/planing)- bad news for normal pressures in the emissions system (vacuum). The note about trash recycling- it is kinda funny, where I live now takes all the trash at once, but I still have plastics in one place and cardboards in another, all so they can throw it in the big pile it goes to anyway... I still do not want to break my good habit, I am just ahead of my area like a 1987 soob.

Not required but end up here all the time. My dad buys new tractor trailers with it sometimes- could be in any vehicle. All my soobs were emissioned very highly, and ecu would state it as non california, with all the gadgets in it anyway. As for your wipers Nathan. chase- I think they are slow in all the old soobs. Top end engine heat is bad news for wiper engine. The cure for me was taking everything that moved out of the car for wiper linkage and motor, and greasing motor and plastic lubeless linkage balls with synthetic grease. Now with heavy wipers (iced) on high the car shakes to the wipers They increased speed dramatically all on same power oem motor. The following page explains a little bit of what I did, The linkage at wiper arms that bolts to car can be taken out too (another tough dry spot on my old soobs) and greased well via a clip removed and sliding shafts out on each one.I think to percentage the increase- 50% wouldn't be exagerating. My low speed was what my high speed used to do after greasing. I should get photo of that and finish my web page ... http://93loyale.com/wipers.html

It was hit and miss kinda like lightning (seriously) .... Car was still straight and true, rides quiet. Quieter and tougher than before with fixes of course. If it weren't for the 104k when purchased and new fenders, paint, etc (it even looks like the engine crossmember was dropped- the bolts are different) I would have just beat it to the ground. Speaking of engine crossmember, Has anyone put a bolt through this hole in photo for more "tankage" The photo is not the gl I am referring to. This photo did not have a bolt hole going all the way through to see the ground, my GL does however... I am guessing the engine signal will invade the body more- if not I want to put a #5 or greater through. Subaru_dude : The weather here for 3 or more years that I remember has been quite warm through december. It has not been normal. The midwest for a few days now has been like maine would be normally- and maine isn't getting that kind of weather. The years before that however- wow. single digits for highs for several weeks and even a week or more not even seeing zero (below zero was the high). We get all extremes at anytime, unpredictable. I still chuckle at the gov site "noaa" all the time (they can be very wrong).I am guessing alot of snow this season due to lack of atlantic hurricanes and cold moving in early to unlikely places (my own home weather prediction) EDIT: I was looking around the garage for a bolt that would fit though there, lo and behold an EA82 head bolt will, it is just a bit too long. I will go by nuts and a pile of washers and throw that in. Upon closer inspection of the hole, there is a ribbing of metal inside, as if the hole is expected to be filled and tighened at either end (a bolt in other words). I did not have this on my 2wd sedan, but where this one does, I am going to fill it. There is extra stress anyway in 4wd, lo range, etc.

I just read an entire chapter about vehicle emissions and standards created over the years in a chiltons for 1985-1997. Old Soobs are in fact very extreme in thier pursuit of cleaner air emissions. After just 3 of them with ea82, and not known to live in an area of high air pollutants for engine to take in, I still have to take egr apart- it is horrifying. I do leave the good stuff: PCV fuel vapors canister (carb float, and gas tank) A few heat rising "things" at top end of engine catalytic convertor (the front one on oem y-pipes , the second one is a sound resonator where I live not emission related) This article made me feel less guilty about my hatred for egr in regards to external air pollutants and what can happen in an engine that may hit 4000 degrees combustion temp (not an ea82, but none the less it was stated) or other anomalies. I must have something in my area. I have even seen the "plasma" (my word for it) which was closely described as "ozone" being created by the car itself, according to this book. I have described wrongfully what this book has defined exactly, on an ea82 EGR'd (all oem in other words). I am confident about taking egr out. Willing to guess an emissons test on my old soob against one that has egr over-functioning would pass with flying colors in comparison to the egr one in my area. I don't even like tinkering with this EGR stuff- I HAVE TO for health reasons and the car. My guess is that on my egr plugged I am keeping the fire from reaching a certain temp that creates other grotesque chemicals.I also read about "quenching" where fuel is always wasted in every engine on cold cylinder walls. Therefore I keep the heat rise gadgets for top end, like a clutch fan for the carb (my ea82 didn't come with one and stayed cool). It is not like I am being rebellious here...The EGR has done things to bring prejudice opinions when I try to describe it. from common sense to bizarre- all of the problems I have associated with egr did indeed stop after removing it.

You do not need to take it all apart. Just cram it in there with castle nut off, work it. If you have ever seen what subaru hardly puts on the oem original for grease even the aforementioned maneuvre is better. I also found , instead of grease getting shewed away from the metals in heat or use, it thiefs the grease towards it. Find away to cram it in there, next go around it will be missing, into the silent bearings

There are cheaper ways to go about it, than stainless. Personally , unless the pipes are visible like a side mounted old cobra or tractor trailer, why bother with stainless.. there is glavanized of several versions out there cheaply. A favorite place of mine local claims to have aluminized pipe that goes for a decade or so in bad places open to evironment. That is what I have been using. the only odd note with that stuff is , is that it shrinks to slightly less than when installed, but definatley tough. I do not bother with pipe guards anymore after the engine, at 2 inch the flow is good enough warm or cold for the ea82.