bgd73

Here is an old land rover- It is my favorite for a buggy just by looking at it. = I do not understand the soobs and even some toyota/nissans getting lifted. They are very light and need the wheels wrapped by body weight for true capability. I would even call it dangerous as it has been proven in my area for years about the little trucks lifted. The most success from a s0ob I have seen is make the big tires/wheels fit and no lift (lifting a soob isn't popular here at all- just going down the road for many parts of the year needs a no BS 4x4, not a toy). With a d/r 1987 GL now, I still only want bigger wheels filling the wells precisely for all maneuvering- from my own experience, with all aspects of offroading, the setup aforementioned would dominate until the deep water hole- I have not had a reason for that yet to make a lift worth it. It is interesting to see some of the setups, I have decided never to have extreme 4wd setup in a soob- It is not true to me. The ones I have seen here via photo and vid proved what I thought would happen out loud- Anyone know of the outback vid, where the car has hardly any lift and the biggest tires I have seen yet fit in the wells, going through a very unlikely hole- that is the best proven out loud I have seen, the car did not lose the body weight over the wheels, and the vid proved it. I saw it from here someplace, plowed through like an engineered land rover. It is a shame I despise the ej engine for hard work, that outback was quite interesting.

That looks like alot of fun. A chance to take unlikely to what it deserves. We have a whole season here of cars setup for smalltime racing, but called anything but lemons.. I won't mention the track and categories, it is taken a bit seriously by some. I think I am one of few who laughed watching some of the races. I love the theme of the 24 hrs of lemons, great idea!

Looks like alot of fun! That is no doubt a loyale in 4wd ridin low..The last time I did that was only to take the car to the shoreline and use my snowmobile, to smack into the only ice shack on the whole lake. The past few years are bad here, its bizarre. I just went to northern maine, about as far as I could go, and there isn't a frozen enough lake that I know of. . At least someone has ice enough in northern U.S., the northeast is horrible this year. That's it.I am drivin to minnesota to do a donut on the lake and come all the way home.

I took car into the willywags, 4-6 inches of slush, rain and fog in northern maine. I wanted to cut through the wilderness ("golden road") but was informed road was closed and I had to turn back. There couldn't possibly be anymore moisture in the air with the fog layer. Problem with throttle sticking returned, the fix: base was way too tight, and I took visegrips off of coolant line at base of carb. One more tight stud to go that will be normal. The new problem I had forgotten with my other carb- this type of weather can get water in throught the outside duct. It somehow kept sucking in steady streams of water, I had to pull over on the highway to hook up the heat riser vacuum switch to hget air breathing from inside the engine bay.. It worked for the most part, but *still* got perfect shots of water enough to bother engine... as if I were in a river. What has some folks got going for the carbs intake besides the aqua duct sticking out of the fender? I am thinking of a tube going behind the carb someplace, as that was a small area that stayed perfectly dry. I would only be putting hose there for this one type of storm such as today but will keep it there.

I have seen the thread in historic section about lake george. Any new england races? A website for maine ice racing I found is way outdated biding its time for reasons unknown... This year is bad, but am still curious for a reasonable trip to go see one.

No fires. EA81's are great in fantastic places.. like the air- surrounded at all sides to keep the little overfrictioned upside down pushrods clunking along in thier oil killing glory. On earth the ea82 where I live is the reigning soob engine- unless you can run an ej fast enough into high miles while they are young and nearly perfect (they will never ever do what an ea82 can in longevity- EVER). From experience in my locale and 10years of the ea82s- they just dominate in more ways than can just be forgotten.Ea81s are something antique to look at and sigh, ya know what I mean? interesting note about ea82's rare in England... they do not like big engines for the populus.After visiting there more than once, I thought it was a very small world. Being not a large person physically, it was quite startling. Even the tractor trailors are in a different build. Ea82's have that better potential once ridiculous rumours are put aside. I hope you find one, they are very common sense once the emmission paranoia is out of the way.That engine in England would be a big one, once the silly chatter is out of the way and builder actually build one. I've got an spfi block here.. but that is a long haul to be even worth it.

I just fixed mine today, did have one worse than that- the car was so rusted it bent in the middle, and we still recovered it. Yours is quite fixable. The routine seems to be drivers side, that very spot. I didn't have time to grind or make pretty or even undercoat, but its the idea of repair anyway. Be careful of the sides more than the bottom for hot weld. The sides are pathetically weak and do not like it, even on a 110v welder.

I have a 93 spfi sitting here, ecu all the gadgets, intake etc. No wiring diagram seems to be normal for it. The carb being a rock head isn't all that bad- It has its supremely benefits. It is indeed fixed. The pcv is my only explanation- perfectly turned itself into a carb. Pressure above and below carb, then pressure difference between inside of air filter to outside. I equalized one and it stopped the whole snowball down the mountain from getting big like an avalanche ... how precise. Scares people to fuel injection and taxi cabs.

I am in the green right now, I did tighten about half a tough turn on all 4 studs. There is no sign of problem yet after making the asv port loop back at itself on the plenum (it is not on the engine anymore due to leak at head). A ride has proven increased fuel mileage, maybe the gasket was squashed out into bore as you stated. I also welded some 2 inch pipe at the end of y-pipe, that also helps the very precise hitachi. I am headed for mythical fuel mileage again, the one reason I do not get a holley 5200 or weber 32/36. Will post again if it does it. Runs very good btw, the throttle increasing with valves closed at idle left me targeting another air source: The pcv. The loopback I made (I will get a photo) no doubt interfered with a possible super gas/flow in through pcv as the problem instantly stopped afterward. Below freezing in high humidity was the worst in my other 87, tomorrow we are do for the same kind of crappy 32 degree ice/rain/freeze crud and will test it out. The throttle cable is lubed as well as springs very smooth no troubles. Thanks for input.

Before the obvious replies, the throttle valves are functioning as they should on lubed return springs. 1987 GL. I have removed ASV, EGR, ABF, restricted evaporator to 50% (still huge opening). It began the same time my other 87 did this after tightening the base of the carb due to very loose.At 3000 rpm or so there is a hanging of throttle open and very slow to come down. Bizarre- as throttle valves are closed. How is it doing this? My last 87 did this in an ice storm (bad time for that) and I even got pulled over by the police due to the screaming sube going by. I do not want a scenario like that again.. I am assuming lack of 10000 degree egr to melt things into moving and the pulsating wierdness of the ASV has got the carb a bit cool and sticky. I did trick the asv ports on the plenum back at itself and it strangely stopped. I am not completely trusting that however.Upon taking apart one already, I am certain this one doesn't need that either. Still good on gas, idles, etc.It was happening above 3000 and something was hanging it open regardless of throttle valve position. Less likely to do it at all when engine is warm. Any quick ideas? Should I add heat somehow?

There is continuity to contend with when metal is missing.. its a mysterious subject, every car has a focus. If nothing obvious, after welding missing rotted stuff, then attack the electrical. And don't forget paint before tackling (again if it all seems to be there and problems persist). petrified steel can ship a car out to junk if an electrical expert can't figure out problems similar to yours. I have seen old trucks (the heavier the build, more likely) to even put aluminum for these reasons. Subes do the same sometimes depending on paint etc. Hopefully yours is simple. The obvious rot fixed is a good step one for fixing electrical anomolies.paint paint paint with the good stuff.

all parts are still spinning engaged or not.. if fuel savings happened disengaged, the parts that link 4x4 have a problem. You shouldn't save anything but whatever gets powered getting a break if disengaged. Big letters means yelling, btw.

87's Forever. :banana: (especially the carbed). just do it. I didn't see anywhere inh the posts about carbed or spfi, 4wd (and type)or 2wd. They are all good and simple. junked soobs everywhere to keep it going. St. John isn't all that far from me.. seems to have held onto a decent looking body.

These are good points, and a frustrating subject for car builder/repair. My worst example was an 84 chevy monte carlo with an ss front and rear bolted up, swapped the tallest gear in the rear for free, 305 HO heads for free on a chevy 350 block for free (over 10:1 just bolting oem parts they never put together), with the 600 holley for free, and proceeded to go down the highway at over 150mph...on a metric auto oem and the free lifted cam.It let the tires loose at 70 on the lsd slapped together. Sold it all for 200 bucks with doubts from the purchaser.Another bizarre priceless was an old chevelle I put a 100 buck 350 in and ran 10.4 after a wheelie at the local drag. Hilarious. Crazy world. Put a BMW logo or mercedes and something retarded sinks into walletts. As for soobs... I got a 2wd sedan for free, and it ended up being the fastest common sense soob I had ever driven. Priceless to keep, and gave it away after totalled. The current soob I am guessing, after stuff I do to it for the short onramp takeoffs, comfort, strength (really emphasized- I even thought of a v8 project for a wagon after learning what the driveline does to the body and how easy it is to turn several hundred pounds of weak into tons of strong- with 5 lbs of sheet steel) and knowing what subaru kept dainty all along now gone.... It is better just to drive it to the end with a silent smile. The mentality of blue book sometimes keeps a person like me buying the "unthinkable". I would give $800, and know its worth contently. I posted this about other soobs, similar answer.I never spend alot on a vehicle, regardless of sales incentive. They are all like toilet paper and the world is an rump roast (I hope that wasn't too rude).

This just turns out too good to not mention.. As it goes I junked a fairly new chevy corsica. Loved the oem Delco radio it is very tough components inside. For the heck of it I sized it up to my loyale and lo and behold a perfect fit. Brackets to hold it in, need ingenuity, I ended up using a frame from storm windows.. and it acted as a heatsink- to give it more power. The typical swap in wiring to add four true channels for no shared ground is only must do. Wiring diagrams for the delco were found on the net. If not, you can figure out the channels easily, then bezel lights/dimmer switch and even a power antanae for some, by switching things on and off with a voltage guage hooked up. The color codes are easily paired just by looking for the most part.This same radio is going into my second soob that needed one. Junk yards have alot of gm radios here, maybe the same for you.

I have an 87 5 spd d/r. 107k. did some wheel well work, waiting on a rocker panel from millsupply. De-emmissioned, exhaust has 2 inch mostly, and gave it a glasspack at the second resonator. Hitachi carbed, brand new alt. I paid 500, everything is good except for the complete cycle of windshield wipers and am going to get that soon. Stronger than original, sits tall. power steering, no a/c and rides quieter with my custom wheel wells which were undercoated. Have other metal repairs with thin aluminum also feeding what I call weak spots for an lsd (unlabeled oem) 4wd. $1500 seems very realistic for this thumpy runner (it is strong). Never seen hard core offroad. paint code 749 has a duality. pinkish/brown most of the time brown. here is some photos: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2520730 some yahoo put a +1 vote on custom paint, it is still oem and the trim by door handles professionally removed/filled and car was repainted. I personally think it is worth more, learning soobs and different models for 10 years now, the carb engines are my favorite. I seem to be fixing all for myself, and am curioius about a selling price... excellent lift kit candidate, and look good with it too.

find the right paint! enough rain can clean the oil off. Oil gathers stuff, earth has many mysteries to stick to your car.. I don't even use undercoating that stays soft and sticky, for that very reason. For wheel wells or undercoated places, I found some stuff "evercoat undercoat" straight from a can, it even gives a grinder a hard time when cured (that is no doubt what I want) kinda like a plastic rubber. wheel wells pressure it right into itself, and as some of us repairing rust know, the wheel wells in the back can certianly use tougher layers than the oem steel. Also oil holds heat like grease in a frying pan.. a few degrees warmer can make a several hundred pound stress seem like a flexible impossible weakness. Keep it clean and painted, oil can create a chemical mystery by the road- and even feed a very hot fire.

I had exact same prob on my sedan- I bet the hole would even mesaure close to size and shape, same side- can't even blame 4wd as the sedan was only 2.. Anything metal works to fix it. The higher grade steel sheet or aluminum is a no regret, galvanized/recycled pot sheet metal looking stuff sucks- electrically and for fast signals. Rivets /welding, sealer its all good. If you bang on stuff you can certainly verify subaru diodn't exactly put anything hefty. I have found all replacaments to be stronger, even just slamming it together without much thought .. (I only did that once in the dead of a cold winter- car just ran too good to give up just yet). Would love to see finished photos. Fixing this has revealed what the body didn't like for stress- it can only get tougher for future rojects, like lifting for 4wd or even a faster engine.

thanks. If I had space, I would have 3 of them complete for parts. A funny story about a place I was renting, the owner ended up with 2 and so did I, but a normal household can't just keep that stuff here (city). I did find a place, but not a junk yard, the owner said i was welcome to check in once and awhile, about half a dozen gl/dl/loyale and even an old lifted one (I should mention usmb to him, the guy is no doubt a sube enthusiast- including obvious custom work). I mentioned that place to a local usmb user, but can't go a larger mention than that. Thanks. I did contact f&s about a tailgate handle, price was great- can't seem to work through the email to get stuff. There is 3 on the road here daily by my place around my year.... I wish I could mention to a junk yard to hang onto at least a couple of them complete to part out slowly. They wouldn't regret it. as it is, I have a windshield in the closet, a parts bin with lenses/lights ecu, wiring, etc and a front end sitting on a pallot in the back yard If I had 2 cents for everytime I dug into the spare parts... the jy would have soaked me by now. Having another soob entirely for parts is where its at now I guess.

Any favorites? I can bluntly say my area is a jackass when it comes to old soobs, but hey I can get them cheaper that way. I gave up on The junk yards local. Did find one in NH, but replies seem scarce and no 1-800 number, no online purchases. I even called the one place found in my local phone book (over 100 miles away) and they didn't even have basic common breaking parts for the ea82's that run forever. Anybody lead me to a good place in New England stocked up on old soobs?

How can you tell an lsd on a soob? markings or a sticker? Also, do regular rear diffs turn into lsds, or did I have two freak regular soobs with it. Any turn on the wheel and they are locked, and straight ahead as well. The way I tell an old soob has one is with the stress indications on the back end. I haven't found a loyale with it, and seen only one GL that didn't lock (that one GL was the most problemed soob I have ever enountered- junked before 10 years old, it even appeared to be droopy in suspension even in its young age). Could Subaru have put lsd in say a "touring wagon"? or like my 87's both with noticably taller suspension exactly like a touring wagon.. and never identified has having anything extra but did just by looking at it and driving. This same part mismatch was on 2 gms I owned, both having lsd and the tallest gear gm ever made... and neither car was anything special. The 2 87 wagons I have/had did same thing- and they are nothing "special" too. That is a confusing generatiom of soobs, any combo shouldn't even be a surprise (I have said this before about another odd part on the soobs). What is VLSD?

Those planes are an incredible sound indeed. I saw one fly around here at a local air show with chuck yeager as the pilot, after launching it with the various hand signals (I was a crew chief). I explained it with the slow guts of the engine doing big things, 1800rpm or so for several hundred miles an hour. Left me smiling like a down syndrome child (no offense of course) to the point of slightly giddy.. My kind of engine, sure as hell the opposite of ricers and even alot of v8s to this day when it comes to rpms and power. The old soobs have it,(low rpms and content about it) being less friction etc. 1781cc 3 main boxer does more than we may never see again. The clutch fan on the carb models really gets it going, I am associating it with tight full cams, the fan knows the engine is maximized, and reacts. It seems a bit of a power sucker until the benefit of how cool and efficient that extra air is giving hard working cylinders to make up for it. Gives the whole engine a slightly bigger world. A nice combo. My other 87 went without a fan so long, the idle times and heat attacked the back edge of the hood with no fan. I have always wanted one on my carb model, glad I put one on this one, not a regret to be found.

I remember this thread. I went back to the ac delco from a 96 chevy corsica... perfect fit (strangely). I have found other ac delco parts made just for soobs, I am no longer surprised at how good this radio fit.That would have been nice as an oem radio. Strong runner, I seem to break the little ones with big power numbers. It has been real warm lately, maybe this january is a good time for a spring time radio project.My new old soob still has oem radio. got that spring time feeling in the air, windows down some favorite tunes... ya know what I mean?

= I just had to add something silly today.... This goofy thought was brought about in my 87GL- it rattles my apt windows, and bellows a bass noise a pyle driver rockford fosgate combo won't ever get 90hp out of. I simply added a glasspack. There is another one in my neighborhood (an 87 raised roof). I hear it coming minutes away, and it very much sounds like an old slow rpm airplane rumbling by- "The 3 degree carb cams" is the only way, no doubts about it.

As GD said, verify guage if engine is quiet. If pressure is in the 40s cold and then drops, it is getting aired someplace. oil pump seals.. Verify the pump is true by hand spinning after taking it off.. at the pace my last 3 soobs went, that pump could be pulled from an ancient pile of soob parts for another project a 1000 years from now. All other seals don't matter except for the head gaskets to keep good pressure- and you will obviously know when those are bad. If engine is quiet, as gd said verify guage before anything, and the obviuous wet spot will have a drop dangling from the bottom side of opump area . I just reseated one, it was well worth it. buries at 85psi in the cold, and made wet spots at the top of the cam casings before they seeted to the new pressure. (defied gravity entirely). It even sounded like a turbo for awhile...I made a site to add to my old soob stuff. The trochoid pump is quite a power house for the little engine. They are nowhere near this disciplined now... http://93loyale.com/opump.html