bgd73

Thanks, that makes more sense than what I am coming up with. I was certain it was quite sensitive as my spfi pinged like crazy until high octane. A year later after tearing it down and finding the unburnable crud- it did not take much at all to change compression and see for myself it is a very tiny stroked sensitive engine. I have cleaned the seats a bit to drop plug closer to where I wanted, will stay with that until an all out project I hope to put together can be done. Another afterthought on the soob I want to do this to is the heads may have been reworked (so I am told- no reciepts, times, places to verify, except for the head gasket egdes not even brittle for a 20 year old car on drivers side). Thanks for input- "cubing" a distance (measurement) brought me back to an argument in high school with a teacher . To this day I do not understand how cubing a distance changes so much to visualize a measurement simply cubed..... theres a squared in there... to get to the cubed, and I am still confused thoroughly.

I have never figured out what this spot was for where mudflap is, so I put a truckers sized mudflap in it. I was bangin on stuff, undercoat is flaking.. still solid (thankfully). I figured to throw one in after I saw one under a lifted soob. Is the spot with mudflap something else on another soob?

I did some figuring in my spare time..... 2.422 cc seperates 9.5:1 from the 9.0:1 soobs. that is very small changes. I jokingly thought "that is about what a spark plug crush washer takes up." I wasn't even wrong. .1476774 cubic inches == 2.422 cc (to gain a view on my ruler- that is just over 1/8th inch cubed. closer to 9/64) ▀<- about the size of this cubed. So... it turns out to be double the width of the washer on an ngk to be removed to gain, unless you use a bosch platinum (which is different now than the older style I have lasting forever.) I put the ngk next to the slightly longer bosch and concluded... I only need to take this plug washer off somehow and still be able to seal it, to noticably gain even more than I have already, after swapping out the ngks that glowed in the dark. is there a sealant for high temps that could be put on the root of the plug where it would seat on the head? I do not know of any off hand... a gasket <= 1mm would also be noticable and decnet for my pursuit.

thanks much. I have the spfi block sitting here and don't even want to get enthused about using it until I was given info about cam differences in another thread. To get what I want, the carb cams on carb timing of the crank with spfi pistons will make my little engine that could without a doubt. The spfi timing in photo left me tinkering seemingly endless for most of a summer nearly everyday- trying to figure out why it would not thump and pump like my older carbed ea82. That timing was the answer, as well as the cams being different for strange reasons (to me as an old v8 builder) Again, as of taking it apart to verify, the back sprocket closest to engine block for 2 and 4 cyl timed in *exact*, the forward one for 1 and 3 was off hopelessly. A half tooth on perfect cams (and spfis are not) is alot of degrees for 2.65 inch stroke, like 2.422 cc added to the pistons of spfi adding .5 on the compression. Very sensitive no doubt. Given the history of subaru and seeing how dramatically smaller vehicles got before the ea82, the conservative ea82's that did not make sense, and the ability to make a rather powerful n/a ea82 had all the ingredients in pieces over 3 engines (mpfi turbo, spfi and carb) needed explanation rather than prejudice. Thanks for help. These questions have been lurking for years to me and some friends I knew that ran them- from xt, to loyale and older carbed and the noticable differences. I am trying to put the "what if" scenarios into action, and I am now certain I can simply.

I knew it without fsm for the carbs...it obviously has a very full stroke. after 8 years of carb I got an spfi and swore there was something wrong... and it wasn't. It was oem pansied (I hope that is ok to say) The carb cam on spfi pistons in with mpfi heads would be quite a freaky thumper. without a turbo... 130-140hp seems very likely. I just kew they added to some things and killed others. 9.5:1 should have been a very realistically powered soob- without any complaints about any hills or any situation. my 9.0:1 carb does and did better the whole run time I had them. all in the cams. jeesh. Thanks for accurate info.

I did a search and nothing relevant appeared (could be my pc- internet returns the same bizarre non-appropriate replies) I have had 3 soobs and only throttled a turbo version with an ea82. There is something different dramatically about all of them. the 93 sedan at 84hp really stumped me until I found what oem did with the timing belt sprockets (manufactured off a "half tooth"). I have a guess at this point about the carbed model ea82 (1987 to be precise- I am sure there is a range of years) and there is no doubt at this point the actual cams valve timing is different. Anyone help with oem numbers such as below for a carbed ea82? The stroke is so tiny, the differences shown below are HUGE with a simple run proving it. 9.5:1 intake valve timing open 10 degrees BTDC, close 54 degrees exhaust open 49 degrees close at 15 7.7:1 (turbo) 14 intake open, 56 closed 56 open exhaust, 14 close 9:1 ?It seems intake opens sooner on the carb, as the thump of an idle is like banging on an empty barrell with the lid on, and the wild response like an old four barrell when floored indicates as well- very full stroke in other words, not necessarily compression (no pings verify clean). would love some numbers. I have a combo possible: lower half of spfi block for pistons, carbed model cams in mpfi heads, scrapping mpfi for a carb mount on mpfi intake with carb disty., etc. (I have mentioned I am not a turbo fan for the ea82-)

it is impossible to be bored today with this place existing (time and time again) luckily mine was loose (20 years old and loose:confused: ) . You have asv as plural, would love some photos. I found the asv also a short for #4 firing, top and bottom of head.. on a slightly different note, I am assuming there is unusually high compression aiding in that problem ,as the plugs glowed in the dark when I first got this car. I only had 1 asv, on an ea82 and posted a page. the car is cured entirely, except for carb cleaning. I hope you can remove it. http://93loyale.com/cem.html

like a boot stuck in a mud puddle. been reading about the rain out that way-- normal places may be a surprise.. get that here sometimes too, including our own driveways. lately, its golf clubs staying open and breaking records for how many days they didn't close for weather. :cool:

Same prob here. 2 good motors , one is spotless from a 93. This answered would help me alot: Did you notice an audible "click" upon parking wipers from controller? After looking at the box inside the controller (I took it apart), there is only one relay (I am assuming it is shared). As intermittent works on mine, the prob may be elsewhere- the steering column switch knows wipers are off due to the last slow run towards parking... then it doesn't. I have no need to check the motor and contacts again they are good and clean, unbent etc. I am assuming for now the little box inside the controller has multifunction, and not just one relay(that would make for 2 tiny relays in box mentioned- seems unlikely).

Is there gurgling noises when you start? that would mean air bound, it has gained a superflow for the engine rather than against. I had an 87 do this and never figured it out...aside from cardboard on the radiator to keep warm. In 32 degrees with moisture my carb used to ice all the way to the coolant filled intake . A theory was old routes got bigger in the engine after an overheat- as long as that overheat wasn't caused by a headgasket, flows get strong after killing any hose up top . It high pressured, into a super clean swollen channels. It was the best guess I got. That would be a 500,000 mile engine now . My "new" 87 after a trip down the highway for 30 miles or so, I figured to check the oil as I didn't know the car. The oil was luke warm, colder than I would wash my hands. I tried blaming everything from weak fire, huge top end air flow, but with bosch platinums and thumpy idle, there is no chance of it- as a "big air" engine likes to flop around a bit at an idle unless it is low comped turbo, and bosches are precise "snappy" hot plugs. It is a blessing in disguise to have an ea82 do this....

I have since taken the wiper controller apart, thinking I could solder something- a source of time for intermittent (which is working on my car- it is just the park function doing half of its job)would have at a minumum resistors or somethng fixable- but oh no. There was another proprietary little box inside the controller, then I imagined another box inside that box, and another box inside that one, infinitely there to torture my DIY attitude all the way to fractal geomotry under a micronic miscroscope. An old soob trivia Q: Where is the source of time for intermittent wipers on a 1987 GL carbed , with no ecu?

rims or tires- pressing brakes and shaking could be rotors, but I have defied those bent and falling apart on good tires and rims.

10w30 non-conventional . my84hp sedan hated it(the only ea82 soob I ever had that did not like it), but the 88GL you have should take to it at all weather- it has a normal ea82 like most of them. I finally found the tech bulletin recommending no synthetic gear oil in tranny .I learned that very same thing as a quik lube guy years ago for the 87-? range of some vehicles. I knew old soobs were one of them. To get close to synthetic for tranny there are brands that are like half and half to maximize viscosity. its been warm lately here in northeast... kinda freakin me out a little.

Santa bought this for 100 bucks. he called it "rudolph the red-eyed hatchback" Happy Holidays as well, a happy new year...

I forgot the lowered loyale limo!

older thread full of info... my wiper motor is excellent, nothing broken, lubed and aligned- no park function. I am certain the wiper controller kicks it around according to the wheel with contacts, not just the motor doing this. I have 2 motors verified as good, no complete park. there is one last run and I think it will park and..... it doesn't (both motors). if there is a precise alignment missing, would love to now the trick to it. also, the last part of parking brings a "click" from the controller..(mine doesn't anymore) can someone with a functioning old soob verify? Any parts places with the wiper controller? They keep the darndest things that last for half a century as overhead.. but one of the only electronics in my 87 is dead and there is no new replacement in sight ...

on 7.7:1 (oem) 145 psi at 350 rpm. 50 psi consistently is no doubt a guage problem (I would hope) , I do'nt know as the engine would even run that low.

I do not understand that altitude compensation stuff.. my old 87 drove all over new england and upstate new york, back through on rte 2 east (kinda hilly). Below is my new 87 on bald mtn. I creeped up in 2wd, nearly idling and throttling need be, no pings, no problems. below photo is my car at the end of the trail. It is about 1000ft (so it is claimed- I can see that hill for miles and miles sometimes). Behind car is the cables for radio towers. here is the view of 15mile horizon I get: The most bizarre prob on my carbs and hills 1000ft+ was EGR opening trying to kill me and the engine yet again- after that is chucked into the forest, nature takes over. SIMPLY works very well. I also proved to myself steep angles in a pit (as close to vertical as I never want to get again) with my friend in his spfi soob doing same climb- the carb went the angles no prob, with a burst of rich-- the spfi simply died more than once. I am convinced FI went too far into conquering nature, concluded with things I have learned from others vehicles and same hill problems (especially newer v8 gas trucks FI that 4 wheel). My cousin-n-law went as far as exploding a plenum on a dodge- no explanation but hills. guessing o2 is truly sensed, engine leans- then a perfect "Kaboom." Carbs will never ever do that, in fact they do the opposite by using more fuel inefficiently (but keep running). By inefficient, I am not talking all the sloppy either, it is welcome.That is a reason to check your egr setup- it still knows rich and tries to kill itself by opening. And asv liked to zap #4 cyl into no fire, climbing angles at higher speed (another bizarre- even with a clutch fqan to keep it somewhat airy) , that pipe coming out of the head, climbs back around and sits connected to the gadget near distributor. That gone was a huge improvement (even more than egr removed). your ride seems fixable, hopefully a nice find.

Both my 87's gl and dl wqgon 4wd towered over stock ea81s and they were both oem....sitting taller than wagons and brats, and again have never seen a ea81 sedan where I live- and what is up with the oem nose dive they ALL had? A friend took one of the ea81 wagons seriously as a trail rider, when they finally got the front end to a good height the camber and steering went psycho.. the ea82 gens were very easy to deal with oem when it came to lift as well as bigger tires without even having a lift. The loyale is meant to be a cream puff in comparison to some of the older "mini-tractor trailer" soobs, but they do indeed do quite well with taller tires, and lifting is so easy with a bit of ingenuity or professionally. The widest tires you can fit are great for sand more than height, but height is welcome if you are intentionally spinning having fun, digging in to it. Then again, if the tires are wide enough, like sticking out of the wells, you could fly around like "the big dogs" (as some locals would say) with no problems at all.

You have the rarest injury I have ever read for an ea82 (only one other and it was a turbo extremed) since I have been posting here, going on 2 years and owning, learning soobs for almost 20 with an ea82. To slam a piston all the way through as you claim, in the non-interference ea82- Scrap the whole block.Even sucking in a valve could push it around in its guide, what happened to you is quite bizarre.. in fact having a hard time portraying it imaginatively. would love to see photos if you take it apart. 6 posts in 3 years, you must have had an equally quiet soob. I could safely assume cyl wall of injured piston will never be the same , even if there are no marks, I am referring to the shape of the wall. Photos would be seeing to believe. Wow.

I dropped one cheaply. I do not believe much lower was an option: the front has a air dam 2.5inch (sidewalk hits were ok for the design) It is too bad this car was totalled. It handled like no other soob I have ever driven.

I am fairly certain 85-94 has the same part for intermittent, and park.wipers will not park or intermittent without it. If the wipers run at all , it does not need an extra ground. It is the wiper control box. Unless there is a bizarre wiring prob, maybe the switch. From what you described it is is the typical symptoms of the wiper controller, and everything else is working.. there should be an audible click noise from lower dash a second or less after shutting off, the easiest way to tell.

Maine didn't get much for different subes. I have seen models here at usmb that I have never seen in maine (or anywhere I have lived including southern new england). It is limited.The old turbo coupes especially (not the mid 80's one). The ea81's were a real pansy in the unibody- a rock to 99% of the world.A friend did recently show me a 2 stroke soob 2 cyl van sinking in the mud,local, the owner does not want photographs taken (kinda strange).What a small freaky vehicle that is, the owner bought it local brand new over 30 years ago- very rare and an odd purchase for this area, like alot of soobs that seem to be quite popular elsewhere. While on the subject of 86- I would swear I see more of those than legacys to this day- and they aren't even supported or glorified like the 5 main bearing lunatic . The mid 80's really took off here as truly a realistic tough enough car... like some rally pros thought as well apparently. Why that history is so quiet is really bizarre. I'll keep browsing through photos here I guess.

Still searching for a how-to. Had a haynes without the heater info for loyale and GL, sure enough the chilton's does the same thing.Both books were for the loyale/gl/dl. and the chiltons even has svx, xt, and justy with a bit of legacy- No Loyale heater info (what a ripoff).. Does anyone have a book title or isbn# for the info that really does contain thoroughly the "heater core ASSY" for 1987 GL? loyale, dl? it is turning out to be quite a complex compilation of doodads I don't just want to tackle with vise grips and duct tape... deriving conclusions from other subaru digrams, is proving to be impossible. They are all dramatically different.

your quite right. I resorted to changing relays for no reason. The wiper controller is the only computer type gadget on my 87 GL and I killed it. it does intermittent timing and parking. also, being my second 87, and knowing an oem oddity could be in several hundred thousand soobs at a time, there is a screw that holds the wiper switch near the ignitioin switch on the steel of the column, you can see it after dropping the plastic around the steering column. Sure enough, it was backed out perfectly in similar manner as my other 87. I wasn't sure if that had a multipurpose as a ground so I checked, and it isn't.