bgd73

Love the d90.. I agree with you about the soobs. They are quite proprietary. A true offrader has many many variables- to fill in whats missing for a soob is alot to me. Staying 15-16 inch wheels for a 26 inch diameter maximized in the oem lift in the wheel wells is the best all around close to oem I have ever encountered for a sube- and they are doing that already on the newer soobs like the outback (although the older soobs clearly has more benefits--). I learned the hard way, my area is mudders everywhere (just across the street there is an old chevy with a hood line taller than me- of course in true offroading, even that chevy is absurd). A friends IH scout years ago taught me all I need to derive an opinion. wheels can be too big for power and weight of vehicle, too small has its problems too. lift kits, power, gearing, twist, suspension, and signals invisible, locked, unlocked on and on and on. A soob is very light for large tread (try rock climbing on large tires- the car is too darn light, "correct height, too light"). I gave up on the idea, only to fill in the wells the way it sits with something bigger, and even heavier than oem (15" + steel wheels, etc). There are certain body styles I would focus on, with realistic thoughts of intense offrader, soob wagons have never been one for me. I do see the older short hatch can do some amazing things, but thats about it.

are those boxes some kind of amplifier? I still get flickered from oncoming traffic that my lights are too bright on low beam. I have learned it to be a hit or miss with strong lights to weaker oem. I even let them stay dirty for that reason... that is quite an improvement, are there colors for those (like blue)?

I lubed up the motor, linkage, aluminum casings for blade shafts, sparked the wipers up, shook the car (they got that powerful) and now when I shut them off, they do not auto-return to all the way down, I have to switch it. This auto return works for half of its intention, as the wipers slow down for one more run and stop halfway down the windsheild. I have two motors and compared the untouched original to the loyale one I swapped in all lubed. They are identical. Is there a half burnt relay somewhere? I do remember hearing a click near the steering column for something the wipers needed to do on my other soobs.. I do not hear it anymore. H-lo intermittent all work, it is just the auto return when shut off. any help appreciated..

I am glad I dug at the meaining of scooby doo on the car. Childish stuff is not what I think of the old soobs. "scooby" was not all that childish I guess... When I first got my car, the scooby doo air freshener had to go... I put it in my tool box as I knew it was old. I did not want it in my car, I think I even said "This is ridiculous". Anyway, I was painting the back end of the car with all my tools out on the ground and smelled something burning. I turned around to see the scooby doo air freshener on fire. I joked " I just exorcised the kid ghost stuck in the car", as I found no reason for the spontaneous combustion. I guess some of us mechanically inclined have to exorcise the car as well as work on them...

Same here. The only catastrophic soob I had encountered (my own) had a rusty jones sticker in the window... one winter catastrophe. like it melted, then it broke the belly, this is after fixing it. I wondered if rustoleum primer/undercoating became a chemical catalyst for the rusty jones. I honestly heard the metal cracking and pop noises on quiet times around my car, I thought it was just "tightening" back up, but wasn't. Less than a year later the car was annhilated just by existing. steel importance shattered like glass (where I treated). Daeron: I vote to scrap that one. Holy Cow.

I found an interesting article about the creator of "scooby do" who just passed away today at 95. The old soob has several nicknames, Scooby being one if them. I haven't seen that cartoon since I was a kid- over 25 years ago. I kinda felt bad for attempting to scrape the sticker on the back window of my 87 off (the title of this thread), It is petrified to the glass like the monument my old soob is turning into, but it is altered: "What would ---- Do?" Appropriate question for the times... I hope this isn't off-topic, but it may be interesting for those who have heard "Scooby" as the car nickname, but it really is a cartoon dog invented by Joseph Barbera, who died today. R.I.P. EDIT: After that article I did some more digging. As it turns out barbera wasn't the actual creator of what we know as "scooby doo" he was a producer with bill hanna- The actual animator/inventor of scooby doo has a fascinating origin from hiroshima japan, his family came to america for health.He learned to draw in an "internment camp" .There is always facts with imagination, the nickname "scooby" for the suby is now more than a goofy rhyme really (to me anyway). here is the wikipedia article about Iwao Takamoto (he clearly seemed to be lacking credit for this- barbera seemed to be credited). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iwao_Takamoto

interesting stuff.... with enhanced turbo slightly it only went to 170ft lbs (230nm) torque. That on a short stroke like the 1781 has always amazed me from my very first drive of one years ago... here is a quote I liked from the article: also this photo set off a light bulb over my head: (note the 4wd lever) it has been a prob in the d/r's that I have encountered, it looks upside down in comparison to photo.

no hablo ingles. buenos noches.

Yep. My other 87 was just as frustrating- it was the darn blower motor the whole time (I drove it for 8 years.. not even double guessing oem..) at 40 degrees it pumps more. That is a bit backwards for my locale, the colder it gets the less it pumped. something was hell bent atmospherically to stay upside down. The hot heater core and real cold weather creating a clash(?) is my best guess. The sedan I had was way different on same motor and fan no doubt due to less cubic feet of interior- it worked perfect in smaller interior. As it sits now, the heater fan is cold for my install after snipping, and it took 30 seconds or more to really start pumping, if it is moving the cold now, as hot air is easier to move if not clashing the source, it should really get it going at all temps outside.

I looked at the blower fan closely... it had a problem. OEM wasn't exactly maximizing it either for the cubic feet of a wagon, even when fan is in perfect condition.. I also noted how quiet it stayed even out of balance and the bad condition some blades were, so at no risk, I started snipping away at it to gain a longer less passive leading edge to dig at air at the top to set a decent pace. Sure enough it worked. Problem no more. I over doubled the leading edge "dig". Air is flowing again.

after finding 2 other threads in relation to an 87 wagon and strange heat flow probs- while every part proves good- I am dismantling what I can. I have a "best guess" the heater motor is having zero recycle and it appears to be missing- restricting flow. It is trying to pump up the interior like a car tire and that simply cannot happen on any vehicle- I must have tricked a damper of some kind closed and would like to know where it is exactly (there would be no valve for this to control manually on the 87). This same car when first bought with a clogged vent on driver side was really throwing the air around on a slow dirty motor- with an obvious air flow getting sucked in at defrost vents when heat is on, and sucking through another place when defrost was on, that is not happening now. Inside the heater core box is the prob I am certain... even with open ducts it must be missing a recycle (partial balance of outside air and interior air). Anyone here take one apart?

I had no idea this thread existed. It seems I am having same prob in my wagon- vents clean, motor lubed and high powered. The sedan heat cranked on same motor and blower blades. (I have had both apart to clean before winter). There is indeed something too passive about the wagon blower motor, an atmospheric pressure different than the sedans (note: sedan had a/c). I resorted to a beanie hat propellor type fan blade, home made out of aluminum and it is mounted on top of the heater blower with nut holding it. I am experimineting right now with thin metal , will take apart again and see if the blades are bent upward to neutral to verify there is indeed a pressure problem- with ductwork verified open and clean (simply bizarre). I really can't call it bizarre after this thread and even my other 87 did this... and that one never even had a mouse nest. Will post again with what I did to trick the passive blower into getting a good flow quietly on oem hookup of resistor block, etc. I am counting on making another blade out of stronger metal (painted!) as even the flimsy aluminum expirement is working it better- with the blades I bent up hardly digging at the air flow. I am glad there is someone in cold climate to verify similar probs...

Mine did this too, only the spfi, the carb ones I clean don't. The engine ground finds different places on different soobs, I would swear the paint color even acts as a different guide.you hit a sweet spot. My ECU light with code 34 kicked off audibly when I hit the radiator on driver side of car- Everytime. That is actually a nice find once you find it, keep the whole engine bay clean-- it may find a spot to keep it from coming on at all. You noted the back of valve cover.... is there any open rusted metal nearby? paint it (unless it is the engine itself). It has no choice to move to a weaker link, if rusty something is the source. Of course this is all invisible, GD loves it when I talk of this stuff. If you can repeat that light kicking off at the radiator when cleaning, it is not a bad thing, it proves a tight clean painted engine bay.

You are not even wrong. ! I am not the oldest wisest man in the world... but did start learning cars when they went through dramatic changes (the late 70's -80's-90's and today- they are all quite notably different). My first 30mpg car was quite an epiphany,- a straight piped, non-emissioned 1.6 liter 3 speed auto chevette that screamed bloody mercy for rpms in the 60's mph (top speed to be normal was rpms like a "rice rocket" motorcycle). It was horrible durability, etc but was quite economical- no matter what I did with the throttle. The soobs ea82 that I have deemed insane with EGR are worse on fuel (all 3 that I have had) with it installed and even deemed running correctly. If it helped I would leave it- the fact is it doesn't. 10 years with the ea82 has proven it to me- and I do not like buying fuel. There have been bad engineering cases in the past on all makes and models, I am certain the egr implementation attacked a very strong 1781cc boxer like the ea82 for reasons only the few engineers in an important board room that put it together could pretend to justify in the beginning. The little ea82 is geniously conservative without it. I have said goofy things about some cars and my old soob is one of them. If a car were actually saving the planet, the ea82 has been doing it all along- seriously. no inline four equivalent can do what this does in longevity and larger thoughts of more work, long trips, and even offroad trailing.

maybe my 10 year old adopted sister... anymore prejudice? Come on, dish it out a bit more... the law isn't too far away now.....as far as you know about folks fluent in languages is your world only GD.. and you are unnecessarily defending it at all costs. Posting in public places best have people aware of it. You are proving not to be so GD. If it means crossing some delicate lines defended by law sometimes. I committed a few more fixes for the heat.. it works great for folks who don't know what maine cold is yet.. The heater motor was passive, leading edges up top of fan were chewed. I added a 3 inch peice of very flexible painted aluminum like a beanie hat propeller in center of blower under the nut, centered, that is now fixed and strangely even quiter, adding more air flow, less passively. The realistically hotter the core, the less air wanted to pass through... atmospheric clash no doubt, like me and GD. my loyale was a roaster because...? !. the line from water pump to core was permanently painted oem, the old soobs aren't. A heat loser or even electrical gainer (flow stoppers, my best common sense guess) as well as no a/c pump keeping the line hot. These things completely fixed the heat for me, no need for cardboard on the radiator. Should work for all of the old soobs, mine is a stubborn wagon needing more heat (as some of us know) and it is doing better than I have ever had. It is difficult to analyze if it is all there and functioning...

I did have great results with synthetic, could take a repack once a year without engineering a fitting. Expansions are dramatic here, I should leave all the oem casting alone. Can risk it, most likely will work, but will not be. As I had posted about cracking a ujoint with grease on my dads rig... it went from cold maine to its warmer destinations,dramatic expansions and contractions (steel density- AGAIN) were no doubt at the root of it, as heavy weights weren't even hauled. my soob will have the same stress. It is a great idea though!

I bet the lugs were tight before maine..... <sound>twilight zone music<sound/> ... Glad you made it home... did you cook some pancakes?

I did not see chevy chevette with the holley mentioned- If I am not mistaken it is nearly a direct fit for EA82 and ea81 ... my friend years ago with an ea81 offered me more for the carb in my chevette than I paid for the car, now I know why....(my little chevette hauled butt btw, it was hilarious- it was an automatic that burned rubber into second) Here is 5 brand new "new old stock" holleys with a gm part (rochester) #, seems a 5200 holley is very close to this. I hope to add to this thread and not rob it, the list is very complete. Thanks for posting, it is great if de-emmissioning old engines is in progress. I loved this carb at ebay btw. more for reference of photos than promoting a sale here.- it was a bit big for a chevette made mine sound like a sube, by skipping at an idle too much air and impossible to change due to carb size- but perfect for a sube from what I can gather (never used it on a sube) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1980-CHEVY-CHEVETTE-1-6-HOLLEY-R-9968-2-BBL-CARBURETOR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33550QQihZ011QQitemZ320058863317QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

What is the wobble you refer to? Is that an upgraded weber reference?I am currently having fun with my hitachi, but love the thought of another carb (unfortunately, the price is way high for my know how for the weber.) 4 bucks in carb cleaner the 20 year old oem snapped to life like I would expect, but I do have concerns of permanent valve leaks...(the uncurable ones- unless resleeving is possible- most likely?) Also, the cfm for the weber? how does secondary open? "E" in "dgev" was electric choke? does a normal mainstream 5-7 lb fuel pump found everywhere work well with it? By "kit" does that mean ea82 swap included? TY for reply.. I find webers but not enough facts for the money:rolleyes:

I will try it out, the parts in photo are my spares (both sides from 2wd). I have drill press access, etc. Will take apart first and verify exact width of race and where it stops, to be sure I am getting it in there... I am really intrigued as the synthetic grease change for the better took two rather full attempts before it went miraculous- grease fitting would have been perfect (even after long term grease) Anyone educated think this will not work? I would hate to ruin the newest spindles subaru ever made .The car with the parts photo'd was sold new (close to 0 miles) at end of DEC 1993 ...

Depends on the grease to determine overfill, if it is light like whipped cream (valvoline synthetic) I cram it in, as it dissolves to a super viscosity, its as if they put the magic ingredients in the whipped cream just to hold it, the thicker grease, standard, has to be manually shot in a perfect grease fitting targetting the bearing, or putting it on by the bag with grease trick or even by gloved hand. The grease fitting making things weak is a hoax, it is filling its own hole in a grainless cast steel (iron) like a rivet that isn't holding anything, there must be a sweet spot somewhere- the only means for break is already mentioned- heat, dry, or even overpacked with certain grease, and contaminated. My chore as a boy was to get 23 fittings on my dads old rig- I actually overfilled a universal and it cracked on a hot summer day- while full of good grease, overpacking is bad, only with "thick" grease (it is very easy to tell). I have learned the whip cream synthetics are truly phenomanol with just a "dab'll do ya" mentality- my soob "thiefs" it towards the hotter friction, unlike thicker grease that "runs away". I will take photos (I am bored) of a tower spindle out of a EA82 car- maybe derive a conclusion... Love the idea, risking overfill with synthetic is worry free to my own experience, a grease fitting would be welcome. Edit: here is some photos, this is my best guess . I have forgotten exactly where the race is for bearing, but somehere in this thinner areas seems a spot could be made... here is front

at 6' 6" the roof and door opening is even a problem.Myself at 5'9 has a few head bangings, auto seatbelt is impossible, and the steering wheel needs to come back towards me( I am an odd shape- my legs are the same length as folks going well over 6 feet- my soob don't like it). A few years ago, I attempted to give my 6'4 340 lb neighbor a ride- that weight is approaching obese, a particular back bend made it nearly impossible just to get in, knees were crunched up into his large belly and the poor basturd was weasing,then attempting to shift, he was right in the way and had to lean over for me to shift easily (large belly). I would get another vehicle, unless with seat back, it drop closer to the floor pan as it moves back, to attempt proportianate, height and length. My dl "mini tractor trailer" leaned to the point of counteracting the steering wheel with him inside. I quickly remembered how small soobs really are after helping him just to get out of the car- and to be truthful, it was kind of embarrassing.

lower compression at lower rpms is no doubt a reson for the shorter gears in the turbo. A n/a motor has thump and go from the jumpy 1st all the way through... I have had the 3.7 to 3.9 and noticed nothing , even after paying attention to difference. Here is another calcc site for gears that can include transfer reduction: http://www.4lo.com/calc/gearratio.htm The 3300 at 75 is quite accurate on n/a d/r trans. I have closer to 24 inch and it rides around 3000 at 75 (very "tall" for a little engine!) at 25 inch, my particular setup is in "gear heaven" for my highway cruising. The oem engine needs a bit more air, but thats about it. The swap is worth it, if you do. The turbos are so easy to get outrageous power over oem numbers.

Soobs are a surprise. I would have been one of those mini jacked up foriegn 4x4 owners with pride until I learned myself what a just a stock little 13 inch wheeled DL could do... Those trucks are mistake riddled with several things, aside from engine longevity in alot of them.The greatest benefit I have concluded is the actual height for deeper water, and certain types of mud (as with any 4x4- they all get stuck in wrong terrain) That photo of the "biggest wave" from the nissan is one huge reason I avoid that line of 4x4 for real roads, not to menton the feel of CG (center of gravity- alot of roads lean to the right here, I find myself leaning in my seat to counteract it). There is always real roads and responsibilities after the mud fun in one, I really do not like those jacked up trucks for daily driving.. The old soobs sincerely have a good effort at the whole realm of driving anywhere.A few mods as I have seen here keep up with most of them. It looks like if you went fast though the puddle in photo, you could have brought your own wave over the hood

I had previously mentioned a cold heat as well... after acknowledging the heater core now gets warm for reasons I am not sure of, it is clean, thermostat is good , fluid is good.. I ended up with hot heat for reasons I didn't intend . It was one or all of the following: I found an oem flaw in the coolant reservoir and swapped it for good one- the cap did not have proper threads to tighten (I am meaning to get a photo of this... kinda like an upside down printed stamp, but less valuable ) I did an engine flush per instructions on the fluid jug I removed EGR flow (very noticable) cleaned out heater box area, and yet have to blow needled air through core lubed heater motor, cleaned years old mouse guts out. Removed "ASV" and made the hose to plenum another heat riser (a driver side one!) Removed Anit-backfire valve ( I am assuming this did nothing to help heat- but I can't say for certain) I found a tint of the rustoleum primer I used in the wiper linkage bay on the heater core! (oops- it sucked some vapors in and lightly painted itself) The heat is as hot as my spfi soob (that was a roaster), but air is not as powerful, that would be my prob after working with heater engine. Some things to do to keep permanently warmer heat- a quick shot of paint acceptable for the clean heater core Target engine flows, A boxer (especially cool carbed) will actually refuse heater core flow if engine flow is very strong..it wants down and out like a hot rod , find a way to make "fluid bouyancy" change to at least the level of heater lines (add top end heat riser, or take away). Explain this all to GD in his language