bgd73

I don't mind tree huggers. A 1781cc should have been left to breathe all it can to keep up with todays standards however (even back when they were new). There are bigger engines to this day doing much less with environmental conservation. The newer soobs with large intakes clearly show even they backed off the paranoia (almost). The old EA82 EGR is my guess along with all the controls as mentioned, to bring less power. I have also found intentionally crushed y-pipe manifolds keeping a decent flow from happening. That 1 7/8th inc system for exhaust is perfectly changed for 2 inch- for less constipation. Turbo, non-turbo they have really squashed the ea82's from really running. A few tricks to get it to breathe and that is about all one can do. The numbers written for the old soobs seem wrong as well for americans,I am sure the majority of the world with metrics has them correct. (The weight of the vehicle for example). That was noted the days these EA82's came out- "the gvwr number on the door is more than my chevy half ton pick up" is a clear indication a genious wasn't needed to figure there are written mistakes. 90hp seems absurd until the intake is analyzed- incredibly small to any inline of similar displacement. The engine is there, the guts are quite respectable. They simply did not think big enough for intake, etc. and the speed of the curve needed if there was one (engine controls). I Recently on my second carbed soob, after opening the enigne to breathe more, and fuel dies at 4000 rpm , not completely dies, but it does show that even oem soobs maximum was absurd back then on ea82. I thought that went for the world as well.

bad torques? There was engine noise, then HG gone.... bad deck clearance? dirty pistons on thinner hg than it came from? how was oil pressure? with all of the setup pretty much there, it is only a bit more work to get it correct. It is ashame you choose to give up, crap happens... That would be a nice common sense setup out of oem parts.

Check egr valve passenger side- anything obvious at junk yard. loose (carbon around it), cracks. the ea82 needs an extreme reason to pop a gasket or crack head (I have never encountered one with bad heads or gaskets in my area since paying attention to them for well over a decade- at most a bad intake due to egr.). Intake seals and anywhere antifreeze can leak. If engines are unknown condition this particular junk yard seems risky to purchase from. After taking an ea82 apart- they are very strong even with bad torques on a few head bolts. I see this subject posted here all the time and immediately think "EGR gone wild on a good engine". As the EGR causes extreme problems here for me where it is colder average, southern states must be melting the ea82 sometimes. Good Luck on engine #3.. seems you need it

I am looking pretty close to that already! (first notable snow last night- ice and rain mix with it at first). The signals from new metal are perfect, after a 50 mile or so test run. Was doing speed limit on roads that aren't good without snow on them.alignment on leaning roads was better than my other 87 (similar wagon 4wd). Passed a few accidents of cars off the roads smiling like an evil basturd in my 20 yr old soob with summer treads that really need to be swapped for some studded. I have four ready to go, just don't like the buzz they give the car. I suppose it is a must do. Another thing fixed just in time was the washer fluid lines, as they aren't on the hood like a loyale, I rerouted them underneath the vent openings for heater, all is well. I am not much of an ej fan by thier design, but this light tough old wagon, as proved by suberdave, and others, seems to be a great common sense swap. I would consider it.... GD: A friend of mine has the later Toyota with a gigantic (by my normal standard) inline four (2.6L ?) and the throttle is quite spongy with 33 inch tires. If push came to shove, I would drive an old one around to beat up on (fore runner, pickup type toys). For now, loving the old soob with the small problems mostly out of the way. Note the car killer salt on the front. This has killed some of these soob models in well under a decade to the point of completely destroyed. (like the 1991 xt6 I found recently with passenger rear hanging out of it). What ashame, can't beat God though, going to have to live with it.

I have a "phobia" with rust. "Rustphobia".I must attack it at all costs. I looked back in a blur, at what I had done and realized over 300 rivets are gone and all my metal is about used up- and the car looks exactly the same.....I am not even done with the rocker panel...(that is my weld project soon) I took it gently 4x4 trailing to listen to creaks and tiny snaps of "stubborn". It is ready. Oh yes. Should I "Suberdave" this old wagon!? The tight body beyond oem should have a great signal for torquing something bigger... As it is, standing behind this car while running has the loudest bellow I have ever heard from an ea82 (and non-turbos are all loud with a glasspack and muffler for comparison of my others). I hope it hasn't crossed the line of the laws decibals.... to know it is all connected and small leaks, wow. What did I do with the unibody to cause this?! I could take an uneducated guess... Should I small block v8 swap or an ej from a scrapped legacy... what should I do

I will disagree with egr until the end of time. Whatever guages gadgets thermal monitoring voltage readings ohms and continuity- may as well run an amperage check on that as well. If egr is necessary, would love to know the reason to rip it to shreds. If it is helping something- will find whatever it is ading by doing it my way someplace else on the engine. The fact is- the facts aren't all the same for egr. Be it locale, temperatures, air quality, whatever science may dig up. It takes one scenario for a soob with egr to fantastically, catastrophically fail with egr- A hazardous environment. I must be in one 99% of the time, egr has been horrifying since my first v8's from the 70's with a valve recycling just one cylinders WASTE (like the ea82).On the v8 there is 7 more cylinders to burn cleanly after the egr pukes a squirt- the ea82 is even more responsive to it. I guessed #4 cylinder was sucking it in due to valve/firing time after #3 pukes it. I verified out loud after pulling cylinder heads on my 166k soob. #4 cyl had very strange stains on the walls, and the piston looked different. I could list at least a dozen problems with it, but choose to vent the facts locally here where I live, as it seems to be mandatory for overzealous environmentalists who are hoping more than factuating, making it mandatory in other places (not mine however). The thread started off asking about the cavity I created. I covered the egr opening into intake with doubled up thin aluminum- with engine running it pulsates like a heartbeat. Engine runs way different for the better. It seems the hundreds of degrees slamming the intake for 20 years left a crack in the intake this seal job silenced. I am hoping it hangs on until my removing of the intake for my loyale one. Sometimes a hunch has no words to avoid disagreement.

Here in Maine where everything is upside down, the egr has even tried to brain damage me. That egr theory is the most thoroughly flunked fantasy I have ever encountered oin my old soobs.I am glad it works normal for most of you. Why anyone wants an engine to eat its own crap and fill the cabin air with it is beyond reality- it even angers me after what I have been through trying to humor that ridiculous falsity. Anyway, the cavity didn't hurt, a hesitation is about nulled , and it even raised the heat just a tad on that part of the icebox (engine). maybe I won't have to cover the rad like a tractor trailer after all.... Thre icicle hitachi rocks!

It occurred to me I created a cavity that will be doing nothing on the intake and it is completely sealed. Is something physics going to happen, or is it ok to leave it like it is for the time being. The carb model has an air bypass attached to the top of egr valve (yet another ridiculous route for this) and I have not made a direct plug for it when egr valve is gone entirely- that is why I had to leave egr valve there for now.The original metal line from pass cyl head is plugged and line removed, and I made a plate to cover one end, creating the cavity. photo below is from a 93 loyale, it is dark now and didn't get photo of actual work.The red arrows indicate the area of cavity. There is hot fluid from bottom of intake close by, and am wondering if this blockage can handle it.. I am guessing it will open the remains of the egr valve to relieve itself- but with no exhaust going through it. the badly drawn blue lines is the bypass hose on the carb version I am referring to- it goes right through the top of egr valve.

It is Carb or fuel pump, if all the tune up regulars are good (cap, rotor, wires plugs, filters,timing, belts, etc). I adjusted a float bowl level in my 87 hitachi becuase it was a few mm low from oem (1/8th inch?). I could even spot a fuel level line from the years to get an exact measurement of how wrong it was. Fuel mileage nearly doubled into the mid 30s as average (as should be expected from 250cfm, a super tight air plenum and a very small 1781cc). I was further astonished after changing the fuel pump- mpg was 40's on the highway and even touching off 50. Even with the oem fuel pump going psych-owed in the cold, the carb set correctly, and even slight over fill the bowl (very slight only if it is old and original metal float) was incredible results. I also found a loose part near the top of carb after getting into the top layers. That too helped out sloppy mileage after tightening. That part has a name and mentioned here at usmb (as a source of carb backfire when loose), I don't know what it is or what it does, but it did need to be tightened with a philips screwdriver, and helped for a strong thumpier idle in all weather. The carb you have is all there and functioning, it is just adjustments. Another note, as with all carbs, old floats start to sink even if they are adjusted correctly, its like they gain weight and defy your adjustment after back together again. Napa I have found has a carbon version float for the soob hitachis, I bet it is quite responsive and it is cheaply priced. That is where I am headed for my 20 year old hitachi, may not even get a kit, just the light tight float.

Good Luck on finding one. I recently took on a project of moderate rust that left a majority of the good looking body alone. They do disappear here due to rust- I remember some of them driven daily for 5 years and all done forever to road salt (just 5 years). To have an 89 go as far as you did, I am willing to guess it is not quite the victim the appearance may be revealing it as. Did you have a pro look at it? A pro that knows ingenuity, not just unbolt and replace stuff- they are all over maine- Rust has been a problem since the dawn of dainty automobiles. I have seen tasks as far as english wheel type curves on new metal in a backyard mechanics territory (it is that ridiculously frustrating).I recently covered a wheel well using the wheel well itself as the shaper. I am sure yours is better than you were prejudiced against- the car is comfortably drivable, it is not failing to rust. I have gone as far as knowing the car was bent- and finding ways to make it stronger, successfully, and getting a no BS inspection from a mechanic who goes as far as banging and tapping on things. Rust is intimidating to alot of people (including some of our friendly maine police officers) and it shouldn't be.It is not thier job to underestimate the car owner, but oh how most do.... They are around in garages, etc. Elderly driving less, many reasons to find a good one as a surprise even here. If you do have means to go to another locale- it only takes a couple hundred miles south, and its another world of sharp lookin autos- more miles most likely, and different errors than local, but hey, they could look good.

It needs all of that 145 no doubts about it. I have used a broken 150ft lb torque wrench as a breaker to stand on (the torque on the castle nut ironically is my weight) and I give a few gentle stomps, check cotter pin alignment and keep going until I get it. I have since snapped the guts out of that torque wrench, broke a 1/2 inch breaker bar, bent a 1/2 inch drive socket wrench into stuck forever- and am going for the 24 inch+ lengthed 3/4 breaker with only one socket for it- the castle nut. I have found them to stay "loose" even at 100 lbs. To think twice about that high ft lbs- it is doing a tremendous amount of work at all angles a car hits the road at all rpms of the engine and tranny gears etc. I have even doubted 145 being enough sometimes when the car has to 3 wheel on a 4x4 trail (no worries realistically though). Do strain yourself for the high torque- I have never used a torque wrench for this task (its not like an engine bearing critical- the goal is tight tight tight), but my 10th year with old soobs and forgotten how many times I have taken this nut off, confidently leaves me without the necessity of one (I am certain I go a slight bit by 145 with my magical stand-on-the-breaker-bar-and-feel-it-out torque spec.) It is quite obviously tight enough when you achieve it. There are several places around the old soob where oem torques have me in doubts- such as the crank pulley bolt, and cam casings- I go beyond the oem specs for torque every time for good reasons.

I have since changed my mind again... I had to think back to my other 87 and its symptoms (much further beaten) and the electrical strain in the cold lead to a bad fuel pump- it simply died over 2 seasons later. This car is there, at that straining point, same symptoms, like rear defrost pretending to use 1million amps (slightly exxagerated).The strain is as random as the pump warm or cold. The cold idle takes a loooong time to get up to the 1500 rpm I have it set at. My old 87 did the same thing, and was cured entirely, electrically after the fuel pump swap, as well as snappy cold starts into the -20's F. The old one after this fuel pump allowed me to keep running the very same battery 4 years later in its 3rd soob @ a tiny 325cca (good sign electrical was flawless- after the fuel pump swap). I had thought of it already, but shrugged it off. Also, on this car, the pump is literally silent getting right next to it. My other soobs were audible, and in the frigid, audiblae inside the car. this one has no signs of powerful life. All other electrical checks are good- it is identical to my other 87's symptoms, just had to remember. "If the ground isn't broken, you aren't fixing anything" is advice I am taking. On spfi swap if I ever give up my likeness for the hitachi, the engine ground will be a loyales, along with starter wires etc. Thanks for tips about aluminum wires, will not use them ever..

no doubts about it. It is ashame about the honda inheritance. a 2 stroke scooter with snow tires has always been more intriguing ... I don't even want to tell you my "I was at a redlight next to this honda with "vtec" flambouyantly stickered on the back end...." story. They do go for quite a run in durabilty with excellent consumption, nothing like a soob. I hope you get another someday, but it seems you are going for economics more than for the old soob nostalgia. I am no offense to honda owners, I still make cracks at my brothers 93 nissan with 200k and just needing a water pump. (I personally think it is ready for its 3rd engine.. but don't tell him, it will burst his bubble). Good Luck on a better soob someday- there is bad ones in every bunch.

Very good advice. I have declared it expert enough to take listen. How did you know the starter was a bit slow...? I did find my loyale starter and cables, will go with that as the loyale was very good there. I have not overruled my thoughts on this car getting struck by lightning. Strange body injuries, and that engine ground does not seem like oem at all.It seems the stiffness of ground on this carb soob has me associating it with something you could find on a lightning rod. I do not believe it is original, as even the length seems odd for its route. Thanks for advice, will try it out for the engine ground.. 8 guage to 10 guage insulated and loyale starter cables.

It is worth a try.The carb versions seem to be gentle runners- a good sensitive wiring replacing the 20 year old copper stiff one was an idea I will pursue. My loyale engine ground is slightly different and more flexible.I can't seem to find it however... as I had junked my loyale and saved everything I could. The wire in question is brand new from a brand new house, from pole to house, meant to take natures beating, and aluminum based is on all the poles that carry electricity. I am not sure where the idea of aluminum based wiring is not used anymore for large scale operations for 50 years at a time for all we know ( a tree would have to knock it down for it to be replaced here- and most of it really is going on 50 years). To put a new version on something pretty much for the quick high volt stab of a spark plug should work. If not, 18 inches or so of same oem wire would work, I am looking at the cheapest way out first. I remember this experiment in high school days, as the battery got caught on the engine ground and the battery broke it- unknown to the owner. car ran strangely- it seemed to take forever to recover even after replacing. I probably don't even need one, I am noting an amp draw possibly due to new metal and paint etc, even on some internal unibody channels, and weather is really diving into the cold fast. Tonight it is first night for single digits (F). Patience to wait is a good thing to have on this subject no doubt. The spfi soobs seems to keep the car "lit" in the same areas of electrical, unlike natures carb.

thanks. if wired together, resistance could increase, so parallel, say on the other side of engine, won't hurt anything? it will decrease what resistance exists and that is a major part of this question. I do have an ohm meter, I should compare same length of aluminum with oem engine copper. If to change length to get same numbers, there is plenty of direction to mount it slightly differently.

I was given this scrap house wiring, 7 strand aluminum something or other. It is one of the 3 mains going to a house, new never used. I spotted my old copper engine ground and thought of this scrap wiring, which seems to be similar guage as the main engine ground by driver side cyl head. Can I use it safley, accurately like oem? I just installed a new alt, and don't even want to try it without an expert opinion. it is no doubt outdoor wiring, as that is where I spotted the new cable going to the house , the same as this scrap.

25 inch seems to be mod free, it is a normal easy to find size 15 inch. The biggest 13 I have found goes just over 24 inch and still looks small on even some of the old school factory suspensions- not to mention the goofy tall sway feeling becuase of the height. 15 inch are normal in appearance, look like they belong. There are 27 inch with a mild mod for full turn via the fenders, but if you just want to bolt on, 25 inch is plenty clearance on 4wds, and a 14 inch tire can take it there, with again a bit of height from tire. 2wd is very close as the tires oem seem to go into the rear wheel wells.

Congrats on the award. I was intrigued from the second I saw photos on your website, and then the mind boggling dyno chart with a relatively oem setup in an old school wagon. Much deserved.

that is a good idea. The gl turbo wagons had them, and xt, and there is some swaps some board members did. If "who" meant an actual person with parts I musinderstood.

extremely interesting... I saw this in an American video- the guy who invented it died.Derived hydrogen from water, or at the explanation given, that is what I understood. What he did was larger with gadgets and lines and hoses , looked quite confusing. My own interpretation: Everything has a reversal of what put it together, using that knowledge to do something else with a material is inevitable- even if unlikely. I chuckled when that one guy in vid was talking of church and science- people have literally died with the truth because of a group declaring thier own god being so. It is funny now , but once upon a time.... the world was flat. I thought of the water and fire when as a volunteer, putting water on a hot fire actually fed it- and what was burning was just wood. That would be awesome to have water as fuel. I remember as an aircraft mechanic on old 707's for the military, they water injected the oldest version of that planes jet engine to gain power, I believe b52's with the same J57 pratt and whitney's are still doing so. The idea has been out there a long time, I hope someone really encapsulates it.

My insurance company asked me this and I had no clue, as I am part time work, etc. hardly a normal schedule to guess. It did get me thinking on the most miles I put on in an old soob in less than a year, it was 35k or so- no probs at all. The car was all original and around 15 years old, and had 166k. It went through a fuel pump the following year, at 17. I just read a newsgroup post of a 2002 ej 2.5 that has a "bad miss" at 166k. I recently looked that code up on the net for a friends legacy gt, with similar miles and year. Long Live the Old Soob. I mean it sincerely. The 87 GL I just bought crossed the continent to Maine from an island near kechikan alaska- 3903 miles. It is 20, and I just swapped in a new alternator. I found a service sticker from 1996 from kechikan about oil changes still stuck to the door. It had 17k at the time.It literally has needed nothing. What is the most miles you have put on your old soob? It is the last month of the year and it used to be a thought of mine for fuel pay...

I took a look back after rear bumper was back on.... No one can tell I did anything to my old soob. 15.71 sq feet into the wheel wells, rocker panel (I haven't even bought the actual premade rocker yet- thats even more metal) and in front of rear bumper, to the corners spanning the width of car. It also ate 4 cans of rustoleum primer with the "25% free" large can, several hundred rivets, and 3 cans of evercoat undercoat (love that stuff). 3 tubes of silicone 2 by ge (non-paintable, but incredible durability).These repairs are rather discouraging- I can't see what I did. Until a 4wd moment when the car needs to 3 wheel it, a heavy rain has no leaks, the electrical changed slightly, the back end is quieter and tighter, and the alignment is true and stiff like a sway bar was installed, and the heat in frigid weather actually makes it to the back side windows. "Never judge a book by it's cover" really applies here. This thread has no value, except the deserve of respect to real body people who pay attention to much more than we see in our cars... The sad part of mine is it was inspected...Hmmmm. I will contently take it to my local place and be staisified when they really look it over for a real inspection in a couple of months. I am glad I did not pay what the appearance could have sold it for..

given what a carb model sucks down at the high speed of vacuum/volume- it probably does vortex generate- but it appears to take up space in an already tiny area. My vote would be to avoid it also.

I have always wanted to discuss this... I am approaching full oem repair with rust and holes. Yesterday in the cold, I did not hesitate to paint the back end of the wagon after more sheet metal and silicone sealer- it was going to get heated anyway. even with an open rocker it is still pumping air out of the holes that are left (very good sign) Any tricks form a knowledgable source? I intentionally leave the rear quarters leaking near bumper (stays hidden) . It basically allowed for a more powerful heater, but even more importantly to me, it keeps the internal structure dry and clean when sealed nearly completely everywhere there is blue arrows flowing. The green dots are the problem areas for me and old soob wagons (rear quarters/fender well/ entire back end below tailgate). I have had to strengthen in front of rear bumper, as well as use different materials to determine this mystery flow... just hooking up the battery generates it minutely. It is intereresting..The flows get strong in the wagons due to no cold trunk. It explained to me why the same care on a wagon gets rust anyway near green dots- the flows internally like to get very powerful. My car is in a stage now where the few little holes left could blow out a lighter (after the heat has been on awhile)- I am going to leave it there due to not knowing how long the unibody oem design was open- So far I have had the smells of a battery and antifreeze out the rear quarter... due to an open driver side rocker panel The next few months will determine if it was too late for my rusty soob as these flows can spread poison as well as attempting to clean itself. Locally, I have seen some goofy things done with these flows once found.. anybody do something unique- perhaps with a bit of physics (it can even change a system ground)? This drawing is freehand, and the question mark indicates an unknown connection (I am fairly certain it is open, but can't tell without ripping into decent metal)