bgd73

Excellent job, that is how i did my first wagon. It was indeed way rustier than normal after the blinding blue thunder event I finally realized was lightning several years later in a dream ... I hope to never find shatterable obsidian looking stuff as an old soob structure on the underside ever again- I broke my car with a single 22 oz hammer with stuff flying everywhere. This current wagon (in much better shape - strangely not overruled my thoughts of yet another lightning strike) has a long signal from front to back and a pillar in the middle, that makes 3 signals one beam, and it absolutely has to be spring-like forgiving,and a real attempt at getting it correct with the middle beam not oem, but just as responsive. I am glad there is a rocker out there pre made. I am driving around at this moment with the seam open and the thin layer of aluminum binding the baffler looking thin spring like middle beam with an obvious strength added- I can feel it, and so can the car. It even sounds like a bell when I bang it- this is a good sign. A dull thud is too strong, or too weak in the stage it is now of the repair. A full seal is of course quiet and a pleasure to have one side of the seat bolted to. Will have it photo'd in upcoming days (possibly weeks). The rocker at millsuplly is correct material? I will email this question if no one knows. http://www.millsupply.com

If the cooling side is crud, so is the oil side, do both engine flush for coolant and oil. I have found the coolant get dirty after an engine flush with no leaks- one surface of channels met the other differently within the block(oil vs coolant). All ready then for a decent flush of coolant to get what shook free from the other channels. if it is the mineral stuff, radiator gets hit the worst- most likely never coming back (that is actually a good thing). The stuff they are selling that doesn't seem strong enough, could be a bad adding of impure water. The flushing chemical should have plenty of strength to do the job. No worries about the block however, there are more round about ways with its heat and vibrations to shake the crud out- a clean radiator is a dang good one, even if it eats it prematurely. I know I had a dirty engine when after an engine flush on the oil side the coolant had loose crud (not a leak of course). EDIT: Holy Cow. I have a thousand posts... I gotta go get a life now.

Thanks for yet another false derogatory statement "GeneralDisorder". Is there a way to report a forum user as "harassment" to a moderator ? It is easy to say things when your 3000+ miles away and I don't know you (therefore no comments to you) Why do you insist on hurting with these ridiculous comments ? Since we don't speak english the same, or whatever it is that drives your comments, here is a "big" "fat" "photo" of a bent cam sprocket that survived a 65mph crash from the engine with misaligned timing gears (above photos). It was my first thoughts in why the sprockets were misaligned, until I saw the key is perfect. I may seek another 2wd sedan and have a normal engine in it some time... after all it is the most common sense machine out of all these underpowered ea82s.

Anybody done this perfectly? I am on my second rocker repair, same side as my first on same year car (hmmm) My first one was too strong and broke the body, my second can be found here: http://93loyale.com/rpanel.html Would love some notes to compare to. It seems as long as it is repaired, inspection folks don't know it could be incorrect. I am confident with the second repair, would love some input (friendly I hope) .

spfi also air bypasses quite nicely off the throttle. My sedans whistled.

The above sprockets are misaligned. I took apart my wagon for the oil pump seal and lo and behold there it was... the timing marks exactly aligned to each other unlike photo above. If you want the full 90 hp in your sedan... start with those marks after checking the timing belts, subaru did this oem to 84hp sedans (and wherever else the ea82 strangely had oem listed hp less than 90). I thought I caused it at first, but it is no doubt a premeditated maneuvre for whoever put it together by oem standards. the motor was untouched before I dove into it. Would love to verify with someone elses sedan (2wd especially). How many mysteries are there?!

the 9.62 is exactly what I came up with for a plug 1/8 th inch into cylinder head deeper (+.13 on c.r.) .I am not confident with the math, but it did definately knock the c.r. up noticably. Knowing the actual chamber size wasn't even necessary, the goal was to encapsulate the math of the compression so when adding or removing from chamber it can still be figured exactly.having the bore and stroke and knowing oem compression ratio was all that was necessary. Things could change from the different variables slightly to get the same C.R., but where bore and stroke are very much static for me the math worked great.The actual volume is so tight on a 67mm stroke... this math is good to have. 3 cc's is indeed huge area to take up in the ea82 c chamber Thanks again, it helped me figure out the spark plug going in longer and a simple engine I would like to put together.

That hit the spot exactly, thank you for the tip. 1300 rpm in the cold is better than I coudn't adjust on the spfi (the spfi I had screamed in the cold). I like the old hitachi again. Start it up and run back into the warm house.

Here is an example to work with to figure oem cc's for a 9 to 1 carbed,413.988 /9 == 45.9986 cc chamber Thanks again . As you can see it is just 2 cc's for a 9 to 9.5:1 soob ea82. An example of the the spark plug taking a dive 2 cc's more into the head, than a 9.5 == 9.96 to 1 (wow) It is exactly what I had churning in my head as a guess after taking the cyl head off and seeing how much they cram it all already for the little stroke- it is very responsive to every little change in combustion chamber. That means a dirty piston could be cramming it way past 10:1 just by letting the crud build up on valves and pistons, hence the knocking on some high mileaged ea82s. My latest spfi was a good example of going way beyond factory numbers, but still ran ok on 87 octane. 2cc's is a mere "few drops of water" (not exactly- but I hope you get my point). I want to achieve a clean 10:1 without doing anything dramatic to the engine. I am thinking head gasket thinner like copper and deeper plugs by a mere 2-3 mm (quite safely)

I have never agreed completely with a web article with free knowledge given, but this one is really good. Excellent find.

awesome! thank you

Carbs can respond well to superchargers, I thought soob had a turbo ea81 carbed, unless it was someones project. Superchargers are consistent enough from idle and up for a carb to understand easily- no lag and cold air under low pressure. If the supercharger disappears, it doesn't run well. I thought for sure soob had one turbo and carbed.

I had this algorithm in an old chiltons manual. It was "right on the money" with variables to fill, such as the "cc's" of combustion chamber, and where the piston met at tdc, the dips and grooves in the pistons cc'd, and even a thick head gasket or a thin one. Does anyone have this algorithm? The title of this thread was typed into google and yahoo search engines quoted- and once again I am treated like a retard with no replies.... I am hoping a soob engine builder has this math, I am wanting it again for a soob engine. Guessing really sucks without it.

Hopefully that burn smell won't reveal itself into something serious. I have found the heater resistor block to catch strange things and burn smells from it. The light on dimly on all the time seems to be whatever triggers it is wrong and indicating when it isn't supposed to. The squeal a loose belt? missing when cold could be adjustments carb/injection.plug wires, cap ,plugs and other tune up stuff like engine being clean. The alternator could be intermittent- sometimes its the stage before giving up entirely, as the brushes insde the alternator bounce around to the engine it finds sweet spots to keep functioning even when they are quite worn. good luck, whren you mentioned all the charge lights came on, it may be the source of all the probs in the charge of alternator somewhere.

of course clean it. Shouldn't come back for many miles unless you are using old stuck pcv stuff.

There is a bonus with new plugs: I have found nothing sticks to them like older ngks, or any brand that rusted. The new ones are in fact different, and even stay "shiny" silver looking, including the same ngks for the same ea82. I am assuming the ngks have been out so long the same part numbers received an upgrade to modern materials. I have a rusty ngk (very old) and one that never will as spares in my tool box.No part number to differentiate them. If I could leave one stuck down even .25 more I would still have no worries about the very old preigniton or detonation problems and higher compression cheaply. The spfi soobs seem to be pushing the limiits already, the car I am tinkering with is the carbed version and has slightly different pistons (as far as I could gather info) and lower compression. The chambers are large enough in any oem ea82 to give me confidence in letting a longer plug fire easily.I just have to find a friendly parts clerk to get longer plugs part numbers... edit: platinum fours is insane, I use the regular cheaper oem looking platinums, and I had no misses, I noticed rusty plugs, therefore the need to change to newer stuff as ell as a bad coil wire that still let the car run great with poor gas mileage.

Thanks for info. The engine ran good, plugs were firing, as I could see them firing in the dark. The new plugs do not do this. The ngks are really decent, I kept some for spares.

every old soob owners favorite photograph I saved the head with a spark plug tap, the crud on the bottom of this plug was the threads at the top of the plug hole (lucky for me). Why a ford autolite was in there I won't quite figure out... Below is the bosch without the washer. My old cyl heads do not seal well without the washer, so I cleaned the surface a bit more then usual to gain on the space the washer gives it.Where it sits without one, is exactly where I want it. I made up for it just a bit at the other end by cleaning "extra" good . It is quite a dirty chamber, it does not normally look like this , I had the engine in angles I shouldn't have with 4.5 quarts still in the base. Another plus about the platinums is absolutely nothing welds to them to wreck threads when the time comes to pull them.This one in photo was spotless and came out easy like the others. I changed wires and plugs, have a bit more heat and no more glowing plugs in the dark. I am disappointed in the fuel mileage. My dl with manual steering sailed into the 40s like my 2wd forever. four dollars in fuel for 200+ miles has my personal record with a 1987 4wd Subaru DL (when gas was under a buck). There are a few more things to do before expecting high gas mileage with my 87 GL with power steering. I do expect mid to high 30's easily.

I do not give up easily, but have let 2 soobs go. One was excellent condition and totalled (I am ashamed at what it took to total it- but hey 1781cc cars can't really way a ton.) The other was soob I bent in the middle just by existing, no extremes. All door edges go bad, I have found entire chunks of wheel well missing. Rocker panels, the very arms that hold the engine with holes, holes by the battery, attacking the same arms, all the way to below your feet entirely missing like a flintstone mobile.I have yet to see one with a bad engine where I live. Below is an example of how bad they can get here (this one is repaired btw).I see a soob in good shape over 10 years old, I am doubletaking a second look.

The other option for me was the iridiums, I found the platinums to have same very precise purpose, longevity- and quite new for a spark plug design, however 10 years or so may be for some of you with longevity.I am back to a very cool running 87 carbed- the fast hot fire for better warm ups while never overheating is genius. Whoever makes it, whatever the brand, it is genius. The old ngk oems are very old design (I mean similar to the dawn of spark plugs - complete with rust!), even thier demises. I would use them again, but I have proven to myself the platinums even installed incorrectly, on a 13 year old soob with over 150k getting 38mpg every where I went, including a winter with frigid temps. The only anomoly I found, and it wasn't in a manual to get an answer, was how far back the platinums sit from filling the holes. Not even the oem ngks fit exact maximizing the physical compression, by making chamber smaller without a chance of hurting anything.There is alot of room left over, I will be working in the garage where the head is with plugs in it will grab a photo. Any difference in chamber size is a direct impact on compression- spark plugs could be a great way cheaply to gain.

The best lube is a 90hp engine with 4wd miracle- seriously. Not to throw brands out like I mean it, but I used valvoline grease and oil, both synthetic. I was barely on the throttle on the highway into the flow of traffic (70s-80s) and had a sense of a long lasting "glideslope".One tub did 2 axles, when I checked them some months later- they mysteriously took most of it into the invisible "perma-viscosity" (<- did I just make that up?) and I repacked yet again.... NGK's aren't a bad idea. I personally really like the regular Bosch platinums. After taking a cylinder head off my 93 with those in it, The washer has to come off to fit all of the threads precisely, to fit like the oem ngk. I had asked here at usmb about that, the day I got the platinums, and got more opinions that I can't even remember. As it turned out, the washers need to come off like my question was asking an answer to.I gained power with the bosch, even with the washers still on them. The ngk is clearly an exact fit, and I know now the bosch's will too. I am so glad to be finding usual problems. I am getting enthused again, after my premature loss of a completely finished (restored/repaired) old soob.

My "new" old 1987 soob is horrible on fuel. 1781cc has many excuses more to have 30mpg+ than not. I opened the hood, thought I saw glowing near the plugs (all four of them are doing this), going with the thump of an idle. I am assuming these plugs do not glow in the dark, nor be able to watch them fire and light up like a fire fly. I knew not to stick my hands in there, after seeing number 4 wire zapping off of the vacuum advance chamber... Is it possible that I have 20 year old spark plugs? The brand is oem, they are quite rusted, as well as the wires obviously bad. Never saw anything like it. These would be the longest lasting original oem plugs I have ever seen.... TWENTY YEARS. (12/86- 12/06) They are getting bosch platinums and 8mm wires, it cured my other 2 engines for good, as well as aided in fuel mileage.The biggest fuel saver was synthetic grease on all bearings and fresh axles and syn oil in rear diff. I easily went into the 40's after these chores as well as the EGR plugged (of course!)

bump.

nice wagon. The trim above the thicker trim is a "last" for your year wagon. I have 87 with out it, but had one that did have it.... You have one before they got real cheap on us all. It is a good one to keep up well, good luck on your projects. I don't believe you will find a loyale in that color either, like my 87 with a one year only paint scheme of "spice brown" or "cinnamon metallic" or to me just poop brown with a touch of pink, quite strangely unique (pant code "749". Like the color of yours it seems darker than regular brown.These things are a factor in any older car.... BTW.. is my car pink?! I swore it was brown until I saw yours- as yours is definately a chocolate lookin brown. I am nearly color blind with some colors. (Not to hijack your thread - just comparing colors)

The problem is back with a vengance. was certain it is not axle. Like a dead spot in a bearing- going to change both bearings and axle. I hope the back end is easier to change than the front, would love some input. No noise going down road must be hovering frictionless. Going slow reveals it to be the right side, and it bothers the left. I am assuming it is that bar 4x4's have that bind the two axles from being too independent of each other making the shudder worse than it isn't. Right side has problem exagerates it to the left. I had the left apart to change two studs, and regreased, banged things around a bit, no water inside etc.never bothered with the right yet. I would guess I am in for a surprise.