bgd73

3 hours later- almost done. After smashing almost every inch of the well to find the sneaky petrification, the first photo was indeed as bad as it really was, not much deeper.This car took a battery leak, badly , some years ago.The new metal is baked on paint (1mm +) aluminum sheet. Very nice to work with.

I knew there was a problem... took it all apart this morning. Believe it or not this car still takes stresss of lsd on dry pavemant - with a few creaks and moans. This was decay #1 in my other 87- it led to the car bending down the middle all while never quite breaking. I am quite ahead of it on this one. I use real thin flexible stuff for the seal repair, then go over it again, "chunkier" with thick stuff weldable. Will have it posted on my website. this is driver side- passenger side is untouched, coincidentally just like my other soob wagon. Off to get some 1/8th drill bits for the rivet gun I am lucky this stayed straight....

excellent. I reassured myself too with more figuring: Thoughts of 12v resistors for fan R =59 ohm I= .203 amps V= 12 volts P= 2.441 watts R= 118 ohms I= .102 amps V= 12 P= 1.22 watts R= 178 ohms I= .067 amps V= 12 P= .809 watts they really don't have to be large and do get hot- The above math should be decent on a good motor.I watched 2 glow last night in the dark below glove box and it was below freezing outside. Assuming a bad amp draw on the engine, I took the blower out and found papertowel chunks and pine needles, put it back together thinking I would win the smaller resistors and it still failed my old resistor block. I hope it works, I will build two of them. . I found some flame proof ones, not hanging out in the open : http://www.micro-ohm.com/filmmetal/mor.html dimensions for above watts seem to fit. I made a mistake of getting a 25w 1k ohm resistor for a radio, the watts aren't the maximum of the line, it is the confusing part to me. A 2watt would have worked, all while radio puts out 50watt....

I have bent a wagon with a roof. How in hell did they hold this car up, and legally pass manufacturing inspection? Crazy.

Coincidentally, I am too. Second soob same prob. I just took apart one bad resistor, cleaned to a shiny spot the resistance materials to stop the crazy readings, away from the resistor block, meaning it is the only thing between the leads of meter. and also verified my ohm meter with a .1 on a 200ohm scale by touching the leads together. Here is what I come up with consistently: The tiny strand: .3 solid the middle one: .5 to .7 is as steady as I could get The big one: .8 to .9 solid on a 200 0hm scale I have not a clue what these numbers mean. I simply multiplied it by 200. I have never used an ohm meter until a soob with spfi. with my crazy math: the small to big would be 60 then 120, then 160 (or 180- which seems to fit a pattern) I am sure my findings are out there bizarre, there is a chance they aren't. I thought in this very thread someone posted the numbers already. I need to fix for the third time, with real high grade resistors accurate numbers. I found strangely the greater the resistance the faster the fan got- is this backwards? Having not a clue of the numbers I came up with are correct, I sought out some resistors (what the heck- they are cheap enough to be wrong) the big one nearest find = 178 (hmmm) middle= 118 smallest = 59 If someone could analyze the 200 ohm scale on the meter part to reassure me, I would try this with confidence. 5 watt or greater- given the area a resistor can fit, It can't be all that large. I just got a 25w 1k ohm resistor and it is at least a couple of inches long- so to proportianate this, maybe 10 watt for the block would fit- in a resistor cover, perhaps ceramic, like all the other safe and reliable ones. They even have a fireproof version, resisting correctly until the end of earth for all I know.

I should be able to just go with the gaskets then counting on the internals being essentially the same.I am immediately taking this car on 80 mile round trips, it got me thinking. I only have one other to compare to, this one is quite stubborn. no serious leaks etc, good oil, and again, the noise stops at 80+psi of oil and hangs on into the 40's. My old one got loud with no exhaust muffler, this recent 87 is running on a glasspack and straight pipe. It is not helping the situation any, but it is cleaning some old gas out . Thanks for info, I will try to make it work pretty much the way it is with new seals and different oil pump.

I will be under there maybe as soon as tomorrow, will take a pic. It is a droopy fathead all one piece, no spacer- like my other 87, that had two of this head and y-pipe troubles every single year, for the 8 that I had it.The y sat unusually low, (as if they weren't low already) 1/2 inch studs was the finale and ya know what? It still needed a yearly gasket.This one doesn't seem to want to boot the y-pipe off anymore, as there is two large head bolts (3/4+/-) from somebody's frustration already in it. I can't wait to scrap it. cam tower seals is a must do for the cost and time to get to them, even if they seem good. Thanks for notes on changes of the seal.That very well could be part of the aeration prob.

Of all parts to take for granted when it comes to rust, it is the heavy glass of the bug lense.. but oh no, look what was hiding behind bright eyes..This is out of my 87, had vapors in it as usual. This one will need sanding, high temp epoxy, then the convection oven. I have never encountered this type of rust. This was in front of the battery, drivers side, and there is some rust in other places there too. This must be a rare problem. I gave it the tap test, but even then, I can't do that too much for the reflective material on the inside. I will attempt the epoxy route, see how it does.Any other ingenuitive ideas? The lense is good, want to save it for spare.

I am going on a thousand posts in about a year- alot to forget, not to mention the repeats I shrug off continuously . If my memory were as strong as my subarus, the decade I will be going on with the ea82 would be a silent breeze The cyl head with asv drops down lower than the spfi one. The y-pipe is even lower on one side than the other.To say they are physically different requiring a different cast entirely is SAFE TO SAY. I just started it cold and no noise. the new oil is taking its sweet time on the bad pump seals. At 85psi it does good. The relief spring in pump must be the nuisance. If seals were good I would just attack that problem quickly.Since they are not, The gaskets coming through the mail are going in my 93 oil pump, and will see what happens with this setup of two obviously different heads. The info I found was for an aviation guru with an ea82. Claimed the heads changed for spfi (obviously physically from the outside) but he was referring to the chamber size.The post also found, related .040 head shaving == .5 up to further compression. Of course that is a direct impact on compression.I could easily check it out with a cc measured vile and valves seated to see how much fluid both take to the level of the deck on my spfi and the asv once out of car.I would believe it to be likely that they be different by more than asv ports. My 87 DL, as we had chatted about did indeed have 2 asv heads. The current 87 is a cross between spfi and the asv- and it has the egr valve like the spfi, unlike my old 87. Did I get an overlapping strangeness from manufacture? spfi and carbs existed simultaneously during that timeframe... Either way, you notes about the chambers being the same will allow me to try just the oil pump resealed first. Thanks for replies and reminding me.. of a conversation I forgot I had already.This also may be a good time for the cam seals- said to be another source of aerating, but far less likely than the pump.I will measure the chambers sometime, if someone hasn't already...

1987 GL.One head older asv, the other quite spfi, complete with egr valve (a different looking egr valve, but same size and spot) on passenger side. The drivers side head has the asv, and hla's that won't quit making herendous noise. I am going to change the oil pump to see if it helps, as zero at an idle is not a friendly site on the guage.The pressure does hit into the 80's and above 45 they are almost quiet- that is why I may be scrapping the whole asv head and cam casing. For very cheap I could have my spfi head/cam casing from a 93 to match the heads up with new hlas to the 87. Can I get away with leaving the heads mismatched? I red some interesting info about the 9.5:1 pistons and the 9.0:1 pistons being the same- subaru gained compression by the heads chamber size.If so , I really have a bad mismatch. This contradicts what I have learned here at usmb... what is the facts about the 9 and 9.5? is it the heads or pistons that changed. This could hasten my decision to get out the wrenches in the cold if need be. I do not want to give this one up just yet- it still runs great, even looks good for 20 years.

Being cylinders get the same lube all the way around (there is a pun there ...) It leads me to ask about the integrity of the passenger side belt for #1 and #3. That is a big difference I simply could not blame on cylinders. 45psi oil is everywhere, 2 cylinders knocking off low on the same crank and pump, I would be blaming valvetrain timing/seat.

Excellent. I am going to swap then. This brought back a few years to my friends 87. His was only 9 at the time needed more parts than I have ever seen a sube need. The tod problem was one of them. they resorted to fixing the outside seal behind the belt gear- the car started smoking and using alot of oil (very rare smoking ea82) 181k the motor was all done. This was after the fforts of fixing the pump. I am hoping at 104k I can swap out for the 93. "B" is indeed down the middle, I will count on the swap. The motor flush worked great, now it is just the aeration problem. Sometimes quiet then it sneaks up while pressure is good on new oil - tod shouldn't be happening. I found some dexron2 under the hood, while there is no power steering leak, someone must have used it for the engine- I am guessing the old hillbilly theory that dexron2 swells rubber seals was in action. More reason to scrap the pump. Thanks for imput about the b tolerance- I just learned it in the manual, did not know what happens in the real world mainstream:)

I just finished adding a missing rail on the wagon. I have 6 now from previous cars (98 bucks to replace just one!). I found that on the ends of each rail screwed to the roof, they don't go to the end enough. So to maximize the seperation of the rails,for strength needed, I put in some 3/16 "fathead" aluminum rivets on all ends of the rails including those in the middle. Then siliconed all edges with permatex (the good stuff). With one rail left, cut in half- it will add 22 inches to each outside rail for the racks, bringing it to 5 feet 6 inches, and of course it mates perfectly to the full rails already there- they are the same. Using the longer slide nut and a washer, right over the seam for better integration/strength.The extra 22 inches sits in a good spot, no bending will rivet down easily. A 20 ft ladder even seems possible. I even thought of the rocker panels strength as a result... (it was a joke about my old wagon that bent in the middle- I coincidentally had the roof racks off that day. ) I will not understimate the strength of the lamination, after proving to myself the outrageous weight and length of things hauled- Is it just me, or do the wagons need those rails? I have seen those without, and recently passed up on a mpfi turbo wagon literally falling apart- and I noticed it had not a single roof rack rail.... Coincidence that it was falling apart?

I did get ticks once and awhile while oil was full, that may explain it. the funny part of that gasket kinked is no external leaks- not a single drop.I figured the location of kink was nearly impossible by reason to get to the outside world anyway. It did block part of the oil port however. I had to tighten the oil pan after the 12 th year, and even then the leak was minimal. The technical bulletin for the oil pump was at an auto parts web site, that is what lead me to benz-arckley gaskets. They can petrify and stay sealed, the 87 I just purchased is not that lucky. I hope to see a "B" stamped on the shaft and round gear as it will be a oem match, from my 93 to the 87,no risk to swap. My old 87 did leak for awhile, but my oil choice must have saved it (castrol High mileage) . There is no return for decent on this one however. . Oh, I did find some bad news- one cyl head has asv, the other appears to be an spfi, and the y-pipe is lower on one head than the other, but exhaust sealed. I hope that isn't the problem. When I first filled this car to get it home, it was very quiet- so there is no doubt an oil relation. I bought some "mag" engine cleaner for the base and will run that today to see what happens, and swap it to my favorite oil. A 30 mile run in the 70's with louder exhaust, and the oil drop I found near pump is staying just that. No excuses for me tho, it really does need something. daeron: That pump is a strange thing to watch. Just when I thought rotary engines and limited slip differentials were strange, that pump is even more so . It even has a gear ratio from the outer to inner shaft, I didn't count what it was, but to look at seems as it would be 1 to 1 and it really isn't.

The bigger alternator hack vs the battery gets my vote for several reasons. I think of the battery in a sube just for the starter. Battery too big does stuff- alternator big has engine fans, car moving, engine running, kills off some of the invisible. I haven't had good luck,large battery. If it fits in the oem battery holder, it is big enough. I would like to try out the bigger alternator route for large amps, lights, etc. I am not sure how big you are intending, but I have learned the hard way (it all starts with the starter....) that there is an extreme battery if it is too big.

I just swapped out a giant battery for my little trusty one to fit the sube. the little one cranks the little starter on the little engine strangely faster (anyone explain?), like one big happy little family all working together.

I just took apart a 1993 oil pump, and was reading up on my 1987 GL. I found a technical service bulletin in regards to the oil pump shaft gasket allowing for aeration.1990-1994 wasn't listed (the loyales did something different yet again- I want to use my 1993 pump, freshly sealed, on my 1987 (if it is the same "B" tolerance- hopefully "down the middle" will work). The easy way to verify for aeration was check the oil dipstick for tiny bubbles. sure enough, I have an hla that won't stop and air bubbles. there is also a drop right below oil pump. anyway, when I get to the timing belts, I want to swap stuff. Any advice? The 1993 sending unit angle is different than my 1987, and that is all I have noticed.An "A" tolerance will not take a B, but a C will. Will know if I can do this soon. My deeper question is about the oil pump shaft. Before finding out for myself next week, I was hoping a pro could tell me if the shaft on my 87 is the same as my 93. The 93 has a ridge near the problem seal intentionally engineered, I am unsure of the 87, as I have never taken an older one (pre 1989) apart.The 1993 pump was flawless right up until the day I took it apart with 161k miles and 14 years old. The 87 is all done. needs pump work. Oh, I made a web page primally in awe of the "trochoid pump" design at my website http://93loyale.com/opump.html In a way I am hoping it is more than the gasket design that changed from 1989 into the Loyales. The seal alone being different doesn't explain the petrified gasket keeping a seal in my 1993. I am almost certain the shaft changed a bit from oem design. Anybody know? p.s. No comments on my oil pump spring washer please

After a couple of days away from the addictive usmb, and yelling at GD. I feel better now. The GL is finally at home and it ran great for the 30 miles or so I drove it with a noisy exhaust. EGR is doing something wild, as this cars setup has no asv by oem and an spfi looking valve called "EGI", I will be doing the same to this as my others.Carb was damn near on fire to touch. A question for 4x4 owners is about the front hubs getting sloppy. I feel it in the right front one like my dl, complete with a creaking noise when pressing the brake. I have another setup entirely to swap out quickly if need be, unless I get advice on what the slop is.To me, the obvious is outer bearings. The alignment is great, and I did note the front right wheel tire is a bit smaller than the rest on the car.Got another winner! it was a good purchase.

I am outta here. Enough is Enough. I didn't mind donating to a good cause (usmb). my site will remain up, with facts some folks like "GD" like to pound on negate and doubt. I have time during the day and frequented this place for quite some time.Been fun and mostly real, and even entertaining at times. I even think I got addicted to the routine of coming here. Will have an old soob for some time to come, thanks for the help I did get. Most of it is on my own if anyone hasn't noticed, and I add things voluntarily like most usmb members did and do. http://93loyale.com so much for a peaceful time here. It is way more degradation than not (I really mean it- I have had enough). Bye Now! Good luck to you moderators on becoming an organization. long live the soob.

Don't doubt the rebuilds. If the alternator made it to the first one encased and spinning what it does, it is better than ever the second time around. It is quite a simple gadget and truly a solid state piece of equipment. My rebuilt one from advance auto even has a coating that left it clean for the 18months I have had it installed, and there is a guarantee. The stuff staying on is not alternator. Amp draw of a short can kill the alternator prematurely.If this will be your third there is something wrong- you have indications of an electrical problem stated in your post. Soob likes the shared grounds horribly- fixing the heater resistor, for example, made my interior light quite bright. Good luck.

Impossible is possible if you let it happen. Thinking of the world may have different numbering- if they were all in one "bucket" is indeed doubtful. I am pursuing the answers however, what I derived is common sense, nothing more.The serial racked over, as I learned from the ea81 thread here. Assuming they categorized the numbering for geographic/demographic reasons seems likely but I am uncertain.The numbers seem to fit however, only if usa had its own numbering scheme from fuji. Subtracting the xt6 engine makes it even more likely it is a rack over just once for the serial I am guessing at right now.

No sube enthusiast can answer this apparently. I went to cars101.com and figured some things out by sales in the usa listed there. 1985-1989 (all sube models) = 830623 1990-1994 (all models) = 523200 I would like to thank the schmuck who answered the question incorrectly at "yahoo questions". I most likely meant what I said in reply to the answer of 242k gl/dl/loyales made within 1985-1990 : "I think there is that many in the northeast usa alone!" I guess to narrow it down anymore would need the elusive info from a reliable source. I have emailed SOA with a comment, but I am sure that doesn't get very far. given these facts from sales my late 1993 engine's real serial is 1107177 not 107177- there aren't many newer than that.

As some regulars may know here- My soob is totalled. I am currently waiting patiently to get another going. It is the second soob I actually had to let go of for junk.Not necessarily a "poor man" mentality about my old soob, I despise spending money on something meant to get destroyed with time, others bad driving, Class A trucks that spew dump debris and odors of the truck drivers themselves (j/k - its my big joke for the big daddy trucker), others bad cars, and oh, lack of legislation.Unless I am parking a car in a bullet /bomb proof bunker, life for a car sucks, no matter what we do.Any make or model. I regret really liking my old sube sometimes. Opinions of lesser mentality (can I safely say IDIOTs) about the little car that can does not help my motivation. Anyway. A portable drill, a sawz-all and whatever else comes in handy I grabbed every "2 dollar" used item from my old car and I kept it for future satisfaction for my next Sube.By the end of a couple of hours, the car was looking bare in many places.The car gets real small with proper tools and nothing was unacheivable, or discouraging. A deep breath and muttering off the incorrectness that may have caused the setback is quite satisfying with a bit of old fashioned non-destructive work. This is the second time for an accident- both times impossible scenarios, very much others involved, walking away, with not only thier health and vehicles, a crime this time, and a fat check for another with an "oh my shoulder hurts". <- gotta try that sometime, it reminded me of my little sister when she was 5 and actually gaining Sympathy. Now that I am angry again, maybe my hammer can do something productive.... I asked at "yahoo" how many old subes were made from 1985- 1994 and got an answer (I can't seem to believe) of 242000 something. I would swear there is that many in the northeast US alone. Anybody know? I am wondering if giving up on these cars soon is something I must do as a daily driver. I am having trouble finding some basic body parts, like fenders, etc.

This question is lurking in my head as I just pulled an engine. With intake manifold off the intake or exhaust valves will never be stuck on a compression stroke. Squirt anything lube in there once and awhile and cover them back up.It will get at least part of the cylinders or if you drench it with a lot of oil, it will lurk in there for awhile. I also left castrol high mileage in the base- it is either oil that gets old and stubborn or will help maintain an anti-siezing viscosity.Keep it in a dry place and keep air out with a bag or plastic pin with cover, etc.helps stop anything that even had a hint of oil and rusts from rusting. Being aluminum mostly, the rust would be slower to get the old sube engine stuck. If a 40 year old gm motor can do it, a sube can better. A plastic bin has the benefit of keeping everything covered with a layer of oil, externally.

I have a means to swap complete from carb to spfi, and most likely will not. I had the carb doing more than the spfi and getting better gas at the same time. All I did was follow a manual and put a fuel pump non-oem per good advice. I was startled to see how much the mileage could vary with spfi, the carbs are way less dynamical.That trait actually has its benefits One way or another there is a means for a good running soob